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HORSE SENSE. 



A PRACTICAL TREATISfe 



HORSE BREEDING— SELECTION OF STALLIONS AND BROOD MARES— CARE 
AND HANDLING OF STALLIONS— CARE OF BROOD MARES— DIFFERENT 
TYPES OF HORSES AND THEIR USES— PROPER ROAD TO IMPROVE- 
MENT-GOVERNMENT OWNERSHIP OF STALLIONS-CARE 
AND FEEDING OF HORSES TO KEEP THEM WELL-NAT- 
URAL LAWS GOVERNING THE ACTION OF THE 
HORSE— EARLY EDUCATION-CORRECTING BAD 
HABITS— GOOD AND BAD SHOEING— MIS- 
CELLANEOUS RECIPES— VETERINARY 
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS. 
ETC., ETC., ETC. 



.'V^A . ^ 



BY J. C. CURRYER, M. D. 

\\ 

Founder of the "Minnesota Horseman"; Author of the "Stallion Register") Assistant Super- 

intendont of Minnesota Farmer's Institutes; Member of the Minnesota State 

Board of Agriculture! Superintendent of the Horse Department 

of the Minnesota State Fair, Etc. 



MINNEAPOLIS, MINN. 
FARM, STOCK & HOME COMPANY. 

1900. 



THE LIBRARY OF 
CONGRESS, 

Two CuHita Received 

SEP. 25 1901 

Copyright entry 
QCLASS CL. XXc No.. 

COPY a 






Copyright, 1900, by the 
FARM, STOCK & HOME COMPANY. 



ODE TO THE HORSE. 



"Who _does not love a noble horse, 

So trusty and so kind? 
He serves his master part in fear 

And love and faith combined. 

He is not only man's best friend. 

But man's best servant, too: 
Whether treated good, or treated ill. 

He is faithful, kind and true. 

He plows the ground and plants the grain. 

He reaps and rakes and mows; 
And draws the heavy harvest wain 

From morn till evening's close. 

He treads the course with lightning speed, 

Though often much abused; 
And strains each nerve with powerful will, 

That man may be amused. 

Then let the hand that guides the rein 

Be ever kind and true; 
For the horse is God's creation, just 

As much as I or you." 

— Mrs. S. E. Curryer, wife of the author. 



PREFACE. 



It is now quite a number of years since my friend, Mr. Woodworth, 
made a suggestion that I have since tried to follow. He said to me 
(after seeing the manner in which I handled a wild and nervous horse): 
"if you will note down from day to day what your experience justifies, 
in a few years you will be able to give us a book on the horse that will 
be just what we need." I hope this friend is still living, and if he will 
write me his criticism of the work, it will be taken as a special favor. 

This book has been written at the suggestion of many strong per- 
sonal friends, and at the earnest solicitation of hundreds of others by 
letter. 

It must be borne in mind that the work has been done at odd mo- 
ments and after the manner suggested above, consequently some may 
criticise it for the many repetitions or too much stress being laid on 
principles, natural laws and unerring methods, but it is the author's 
firm conviction that these very things will serve as monuments to his 
memory, with those who will read the book and comply with its sug- 
gestions. 

For the want of a better name (at the suggestion of a personal 
friend), it is christened HORSE SENSE, and it is the most sincere 
desire of the author that the work or book fully justifies so good a name. 

The questions and answers in the veterinary department are designed 
to meet the wants of many who are not favored with having the veter- 
inary surgeon at easy call, but it should be understood that where com- 
petent veterinary skill can be had, the seriously sick horse should be 
in his hands. 

A grateful acknowledgement is hereby offered to those who have 
assisted, encouraged and sustained the author in what they are pleased 
to call a commendable labor for mankind, our horses and the country 
generally. 

J. C. CURRYER. 



AUTOBIOGRAPHY. 



It was not my good fortune to h^ve been born in a palace, nor with 
a "gold spoon in my mouth," but in a humble log cabin on a farm in the 
forest, one mile south of Palestine, Shelby county, Ohio, November 7th, 
1837. My baby cradle was a sugar (sap) trough, and my advantages 
were such as nature furnishes in the timber. School sessions were of 
short duration and the teachers of the "beach-gad" order. My parental 
grand parents emigrated from near White Hall, Baltimore county, Mary- 
land, about 1810, to Ohio, and my maternal grand parents came from 
Vermont. My association with and attachment for the horse, began 
very early in life. Father being a stock dealer in horses, cattle, sheep 
and hogs, I frequently accompanied him in gathering and taking his 
purchases to market. 

I remained upon the farm until twenty-five years of age, when I stud- 
ied medicine and dentistry and practiced the latter for nearly a quarter 
of a century, but during all the tim.e, was never without from one, to 
over one hundred head of horses. With the exception of about five 
years of all time, I have been closely connected with the farm, in breed- 
ing horses, cattle and hogs, but principally the first, as my interest nat- 
urally centered on the horse. 

During 1887 I was prevailed upon to aid in the establishment of Min- 
nesota Farmers' Institutes, with which I have been connected ever since. 
My first work in this respect was in representing the horse interests on 
the institute platform, in relation to breeding and educating the horse. 
And as our work was new to the people, more or less prejudice ex- 
isted against it. I volunteerd to handle any unbroken horse during the 
noon hour to show the intelligence of the horse and how much could 
be taught him in one hour. Out of one hundred and fifty-three horses 
handled in this way, but one was made warm enough to sweat. The 
streets during these exhibitions were generally crowded with the people 
of the town and country to see what they pleased to term "the fun," but 
they were often disappointed in this respect, as it was the invariable rule 
to first gain the confidence of the horse, and the balance was so easy 
that there was but little or no excitement about it. 

Much of my life has been spent in studying breeding questions and 
the means, and especially the methods of controling our horses in ac- 
cordance with the natural laws governing their actions, with a view of 
aiding owners and handlers in getting along with their horses with the 
least trouble and punishment, as well as to relieve the faithful horse of 
much suffering from abuse. 



INTRODUCTION. 



Horse Sense is the result of nearly a lifetime's association with the 
horse, in observing his character, the laws of reproduction, adaptation of 
his conformation and, nerve force for the varied uses required and the 
natural laws that govern all his actions. 

■ The character of horses, like that of men, is as varied as ancestral 
endowment and environment can make their impressions on the organi- 
zation. That the horse is an intelligent animal there can certainly be 
no doubt in the present development and training of the animal. That 
he is also endowed with propensities (if not sentiments) very similar to 
those of man, there is ample proof sufficient to satisfy the most incredu- 
lous. The evolution of ihe horse demonstrates that by a strict conformity 
to the laws of reproduction— "like begetting like or the likeness of some 
ancestor" — that we are able to produce the varied types of horses for 
the specific uses for which each is by nature best adapted. 
• While the character and breeding of horses is of great importance, 
that of a useful education is of eciual, if not more, value. Has it ever 
occurred to the reader that every duty, service, performance and require- 
ment of the horse for our benefit, is the result of his education? Like 
his owner or handler, he must first be shown, taught, and have explained 
ill an intelligent manner, how to perform the required duties, before he 
can reasonably be expected to execute them well. He must not only 
be taught what to do, but how to do it, and we all know from personal 
experience, that we often have to practice a long time after we know 
what to do, before we can perform the duty well. Then, should we 
not have great patience with the horse in his education. When we stop 
to consider that the horse is a mute (not able to talk), and that his 
services require intelligence and education to be able to do them well, 
does not the situation in its broad sense appeal to the sympathy, and 
superior ability of man. to educate this most valuable servant of hu- 
manity in the best possible manner? 

Horse Sense is intended to appeal to the good "common sense" of 
men in all they have to do with horses, and especially in relation to the 
"natural laws" which govern all the actions of horses. Unless we' com- 
prehend these laws and comply witl> them, We will make a dismal failure 
of handling horses. Kindness, patience, perseverance, consistency of 
method, practical application of means of control, and a close observ- 
ance of the nature of the horse to be dealt with, will produce surprising 
results. But if we opperate in opposition to these, natural laws and we 



Vlll INTRODUCTION. 

consider the horse only a "brute" to be yanked, kicked and beaten, at the 
pleasure or passion of the handler, the good "common sense" of any 
man would naturally decide that the results would be equally surprising 
in an opposite direction, viz.: that an unreliable, dangerous and pos- 
sibly viscious animal was made so by his trainer, instead of a good, 
serviceable, trusty, faithful and reliable horse. One of two things 
should be done for the good of our horses. They should be taught 
in established schools for their education, as we have for our children's 
training, or everybody who expects to handle horses should study the 
horse; study his character; study the natural laws that govern his ac- 
tions; work in conformity with these laws instead of against them, as 
when we put a halter on a colt's head and then expect to pull him after 
us without resistance. Everyone who ever "broke" a colt to the halter 
knows what the colt will do if the halter is pulled upon. He knows 
he will go backwards, but how many men ever stopped and candidly 
considered what made him pull backwards'' The colt thinks he has got 
his head into some kind of a trap and he knows but one way out of it, 
and that is to go backwards and pull it out. This lesson alone should 
be sufficient to demonstrate to us that we were working at the wrong 
end of the colt — in part at least — for we find when we attach something 
to the rear end of his body, he as naturally goes forward. Then is it 
not good "common sense" as well as Horse Sense, to operate on the 
rear end for forward movements and use the halter for direction? The 
pivotal point of the horse's action is the center of his body in opposite 
direction, and the sooner we learn this and always keep it in mind, the 
better we will get along with our horsfes. 

My attenlion to the capabilities of the horse in an educational way, 
was when only a lad of ten years, with a strawberry roan mare that I 
used for driving the cows to and from pasture. The mare soon demon- 
strated that she had an interest in driving these cattle, as she seemed 
to watch their movements very closely and was on the alert for any 
"breaks" that any of them might make. She would stand and hold 
the cattle while the bars were being let down, and if any one of them 
offered to move out of the way she was right after them. She was 
always rewarded for her services with sugar, which she soon learned to 
relish. She would sidle up to the fence for me to mount upon her bare 
back, and she soon learned tn stand with her front feet upon the largest 
boulders to be found, and some were very large along the route. 

When about thirteen years of age I accidentally discovered what has 
since proved to my entire satisfaction, the natural laws governing the 
actions of our horses, and it is surprising that it has not been well es- 
tablished long ago, when the facts are so apparent to every handler 
and trainer, that the horse always acts just the reverse from what is 
generally expected, and, notwithstanding this, almost all horsemen still 
persist in working along the same old lines, in opposition to this natural 
law and then wonder why horses do as they do. 

I have worked many years in farmers' institutes along this line, and 
from the many kind greetings and the hundreds of letters received com- 



INTRODUCTION. IX 

mending my efforts and constantly urging me to compile my work of 
the Minnesota Horseman, Farmers' institute annuals and such other mat- 
ter as would make a ready reference book, is what has stimulated me in 
the preparation of Horse Sense, with the sincere hope that those who 
will study its pages carefully and com.ply with the "law," will be benefited 
many times its cost. 

The indulgence of the reader is solicited for the many repetition.s, 
crudeness of style, plain, simple, method and idiosyncrasy of the author, 
as no attempt is made towards a scientific classical or professional pro- 
duction, but a work of preventions rather than cures, that can be made 
beneficial to the farmers (who raise the horses) and those who handle 
horses, and especially for the comfort that may be rendered the noble 
horse by better understanding him, and thereby giving better treatment 
to man's greatest animal servant — the horse. 

J. C. CURRYER. 



FORMER HORSE-BREEDING ESTABLISHMENT OF DR. J. C. 

CURRYER & SONS, S}4 MILES SOUTHEAST OF 

LAKE CRYSTAL, MINN. 

This beautiful location was selected many years ago by the author 
and his devoted wife, as a fitting place for the enjoyment of farm life, 
the proper environments for bringing up a family of boys, and devoting 
our future years to stock raising. Groves were planted, many wells 
for stock-water sunk, buildings erected, paddocks and pastures arranged, 
and the growth and development of the trees and stock were greatly 
enjoyed up to the financial panic of 1893, when the horse business came 
to a "stand still" — the very "bottom" of the enterprise "fell out," a dis- 
astrous business-house fire, and other embarrassments, put a sudden 
check to many of our cherished ambitions. But while the depreciation 




MINNESOTA'S (PAST) HOME OF THE WILKES, 



in values were great, the losses heavy, the disappointment a severe blow, 
fondest hopes almost faded, nothing apparently "coming our way" for a 
long time, yet at last a "bright star" of hope is now seen farther north- 
ward, and we have secured what will serve our purpose better, where the 
grasses grow more luxuriantly, running water and plenty of it, timber 
ior buildings and fencing on the place, and located just half way be- 
tween the two great cities of the northwest, with the advantage of two 
railroads. 

The illustration gives the reader a good idea of the cherished old 
farm, its groves, fields, buildincgs, wind-mills and stock, where we so 
often greeted our friends and greatly enjoyed life. But it is still our sin- 
cere desire and cherished hope that we may in the future as in the past, 
welcome our friends to our new location (near Hinckley, Minn.), our 
iir-^^'de and farm table. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

Scientific Breeding— Special Breeding for Uniformity of Conforma- 
tion — Laws Controlling Service Stallions — Nature's Law, "Like 
Produces Like," the True Principle — Horse Breeding and Defi- 
nite Object — An Ideal Product Should be Desired — Mental and 
Physical Characteristics — Defects are Transmitted — Adherance to 
Type I 

CHAPTER n. 

Conformation of Legs — Deformities of Front and Hind Legs — The 
Feet and Legs — Legs of Horses, Right and Wrong — Rear View 
of Feet and Legs — Side View of Hind Quarters and Legs 5 

CHAPTER HL 

Types or Horses — A Typical Arabian — English Thoroughbred — War 
Horses and Famous Chargers — The Morgan Horse — Potency in 
Morgan Blood — Green Mountain Morgan 2nd — Ideal Light Har- 
ness Horse — Security — Conquer Star — American Saddle Horse — 
Saddle Horse and Change of Gait — ^Black Squirrel 2nd — General 
Purpose Horse — All Purpose Stallion — All Purpose Brood Mare 
— Rose Chief — American Carriage Stallion — The Carriage Brood 
Mare — Comparison of Blood Lines — Coach Horse Types — 
French Coach Horse — American Bred Light Road Team — Pilot 
Boy and Amelia — American Bred Heavy Carriage Horses — 
American Coach or Carriage Team — The Draft Horse — Clydesdale 
Stallion — Crossing of Breeds — Clydesdale Brood Mare — Percher- 
on Stallion — Gilbert the Winner — Percheron Brood Mare and 
Colt 10 

CHAPTER IV. 

Judging Horses 32 

CHAPTER V. 

Examining Horses — Sound Horses — Temporary Unsoundness — At 
Rest and in Motion— Watch For Habits — The Horse's Head — 
Discerning Defects — To Examine the Horse's Body 36 

CHAPTER VI. 

Examination For Lameness — Find Cause — Where it Affects 39 



XU CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER VII. 

Selecting the Stallion — Size and Form for Purpose Required — Indi- 
viduality of Type Considered — Crossing Jack and Mare — Cross- 
ing Thoroughbred and Jenny 43, 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Wintering Stallions — Condition for Wintering — The Feet — Exercise — 
Stallion Barn and Lot — Harness or Saddle Work — Winter Food 
— Watering — Salt — Cleanliness — Management 45, 

CHAPTER IX. 

The Stallion in Season — Regulating Services — Feeding — Handling — 
Artificial Impregnation 50 

CHAPTER X. 

Government Ownership of Stallions — Breeders' Associations 53. 

CHAPTER XI. 

Selection and Care of Brood Mare — Conformation — Pedigree — In- 
Breeding — Haphazard Breeding — The Brood Mare and Stallion 
— Time to Breed — Early Grass — Examination of Womb — Trying 
the Mare — Treatment of Mare in Foal — Food For Mare in Foal 
— Time of Foaling — Care of Young Foal 54 

CHAPTER XII. 

Hereditary Traits of Horses — Habits 63 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Horses in the United States — The Number and Valuation of — En- 
couragement to the Breeders 65. 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Farmers as Horse Breeders — The Stallion Half the Herd — Mixing 
Breeds — The Farm Horse — Draft Horses for the Farm — Power 
—Draft Brood Mare 66 

CHAPTER XV. 

Intelligence of the Horse — Education — Memory — Sugar for the Nerv- 
ous Horse — The Horse and His Instructor — Examples of Intelli- 
gence and Thought 69 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Horse Education — Horses are Naturally Timid and Sensative — The 
Horse a Slave to Humanity — The Horse Considered Only a 
Brute — The Horse Naturally Submissive — The Horse is Endowed 
with Intelligence and Passions — Useful Every-day Lessons Rather 
Than Tricks — Representative Heads of Horses — Extent of the 
Horse's Capacity for Learning — Fidelity of the Horse to His 
Master — Remembrance of Wrongs — Right Treatment — Underly- 



CONTENTS. XUI 

ing Principles— To Catch the Young Foal— Handling the Young 
Colt 74 

CHAPTER XVIL 

Horse Vocabulary 80 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

Get the Confidence of Little Colts 83 

' CHAPTER XIX. 

Fisrt Lessons in Harness — The Old Horse Teacher — Harsh Bits — 
The Kindergarten — ^^Driving — Early Lessons^Arrangement of 
Attachments of Colts 87 

CHAPTER XX 

Home Made Cart — For Driving Colts or Unruly Horses — For Hand- 
ling the Runaway or Kicker — For Learning to Turn Round 91 

CHAPTER XXI. 

Controlling Horses Through the Mouth — Safety Bridle — The Bow- 
Bow-Line Knot — Adjusting Safety Bridle — Don't Drag or Saw 
the Rope Through the Horse's Mouth — The Yankee Bridle — 
Single or Double — Teaching Horse to Hold Head Low to be 
Bridled — Treating Horse with Sore Neck — The Hard-Bitted 
Horse — Different Forms of Rope to Head — Teaching Colt to 
Yield up His Feet 93 

CHAPTER XXII. 

Combinations of Three — Three Lessons — Three Tortures — Three 
■Conditions of Feet — Three Enemies to Feet — Three Points in 
Care — Three Factors in Condition — Three Points in Getting the 
Good Will — Three Causes of Fear — Three Safeguards — Unreliable 
Horses — To Catch the Horse — Grooming the Horse — Standing 
When Hitching Up — Stand After Hitching — Nervous After 
Hitched — After a Hard Drive 102 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

Use and Abuse of Over-head Check — Aa Nature Made Us — Grace 
and Beauty Spoiled — A Lesson in Contrast — Applied as Punish- 
nient to Criminals — Horses Suffered — A Sermon to Horse Own- 
ers . 105 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

A Good Mouth — Tender Mouth — Tongue-Lolling — Crossing Jaws — 
Effects of Bad Mouths— Bridle Bits— Carefully Select the Bridle 
and Horse — The Teeth — Caps cf Temporary Teeth — Wearing of 
Teeth 109 



XIV CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XXV. 

Fitting Collar to Horse — Each Horse Should Have His Collar — 
Large Collars — Form of Collar — Adjustment of Hame-Tug — 
Soaking Collars — Hame-Straps — Clean Shoulders and Collar 114 

CHAPTER XXVI. 

Natural Foot of Horse — The Frog and Sole Protect the Foot — 
Ground Surface of Good Feet — Ground Surface of Contracted 
Feet — Ground Surface and Wall of Foundered Foot — The Colt's 
Feet 118 

CHAPTER XXVn. 

Shoeing and its Effects 121 

CHAPTER XXVni. 

Feeding Horses — Variety of Food — Too Much Hay — Must be Fed 
with Care — Rations for Horses in London — Feeding Cavalry 
Horses — Mortality from all Causes — Muscle-Making Food and 
Exercise for Colts — Idleness and Fat — Ration for Weanling 
and Older Colt — Bran and Bran-Mashes 127 

CHAPTER XXIX. 

Fattening Horses for Market— Corn — Glauber Salts — Oil Meal — 
Floating the Teeth — Stuffing Process — Feeding Work Horses — 
Water Before Feeding — Over-Feeding — Idle Horses — An Ex- 
periment — Economic Feeding — Feeding and Health — Feeding 
Little Colts — Grow Frame-work of Colts — Weanling Colts and 
Water — Exercise the Colts — Weaning Colts — Skim Milk 131 

CHAPTER XXX. 

Devices for Controlling Horses — Education in the Stall — The Halter- 
Puller — A Mere String — Kicking and Pawing — The Horse Shack- 
eled in His Stall — Backing the Horse 138 

CHAPTER XXXI. 

Controlling Horse by His Tail — Run-away in a Circle — Poling the 
Horse — Fastening Tie-Strap to Tail — Tying Halter-Strap to Tail 
— Making Horse Familiar with Objects — Shackeling — Tieing 
Legs .- 14^ 

CHAPTER XXXII. 

Picketing Horses — Controlling Hind Feet in Shoeing — Inducing 

Horse to Hold Leg Up — Position in Shoeing 153 

CHAPTER XXXIII. 

Handling Mature Horses — Handling by the Head — Stallion Bridle — 
Manner of Adjusting — A Good. Cheap Riding Bridle — Handling 
Umbrella on Horseback 158 



CONTENTS. XV 

- CHAPTER XXXIV. 

Power of Man Over Horse — Laying the Horse Down — Making a 

Circingle with Rope — ^The Horse in Trouble — In Greater Trouble 164 

CHAPTER XXXV. 

Handling by the Legs — Reins to Legs Better Than to Bits — Applied 
to Kicker — Hitching Kicker to Wagon — Driving Kicker Double 
■ — The Vicious Kicker — Kicking Attachment for Single or Double 
Harness — Halter Attachment for Kicker, Trotter, Pacer or Run- 
away 173 

CHAPTER XXXVI. 

Switcher and Rein-Catcher 185. 

CHAPTER XXXVII. 

The Balky Horse — How to Treat Him 188. 

CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

Mischief in the Stomach — Too Much Water After Feeding — Water in 
the Field — Too Much Water at a Time — Dieting Horses — Rest 
When Ailing — Drenching Horses — The Horse and Injection — 
Watch the Feet — The Hay Manger — Where to Feed Grain 194 

CHAPTER XXXIX. 

Miscellaneous Receipts — For Colic — Flatulent Colic — Diarrhoea — 
Scours — Scours in Young Foal — Slavering — Expulsion of Bots — 
Indigestion — Worms— Pin Worms — Dry Cough — Chronic Cough 
— Bran-Mash — Cough Mash — Sprains and Old Swellings — 
Swelled Legs — Foot-Sore Horses — Fevered Legs — Cracked Heels 
— Removal of Warts — Body Wash— Disenfectants for Wounds — 
Charcoal Tar — Sugar as an Antiseptic — Fence Wire Cuts — 
Scratches — Wash for Old Sores — Wash for Mange — Grease Heel 
— Thrush — For Splint — Itching Humor — Lice — Galls — Carriage- 
Top Dressing — Kerosene Emulsion for Harness — Old Straps 
Made Soft — Care of Harness 200 

CHAPTER XL. 

Questions and Answers at Farmers' Institutes — Questions Answered by 
the Author — Hitching Horse by Tail in Fly Time — When to 
Break Colt — To Harness and Drive the Colt — To Handle Vis- 
cious and Tricky Horses — Why Have Horses Bad Legs? — Treat- 
ment for Scours — Care of Colt's Feet — Cutting Frog and Sole — 
Rasping Horn of Hoof — Spring T. vs. Straight Pasterns — Stall — 
Check-Rein and Blinders — Why Use Over-Head Check Tight? — 
Biting — Crowding Keeper in the Stall — Make Horse Hold up 
H'isA — Preventing "Bucking" — Teaching to Back — Tieing Head 
and T^i! — The Halter-Puller — Handling the "Broncho"— Calts at 
Weenir.g Time — Colts the First Winter — Wild Hay for Horses — 



XVI CONTENTS. 

Ground Barley — Water when Warm — Raising Colts at a Profit — 
A Frightened Horse 210 

CHAPTER XLI. 

Questions Answered by Dr. M. H. Reynolds — Grain Rations for a 
Working Horse — For an Idle Horse — Hay for Horses — Kick on 
Hock Cap — Colts Dying Soon After Birth — To Kill Lice on 
Horses — Heaves — Cure for Poll-Evil — Colts and Lice — Oat 
Straw for Idle Horses — Colic — Moon-Eyed Horses — Is Cob Meal 
and Oats for Horses — Millet Hay for Work Horses — Barley for 
Colts — Barley Straw for Horses — Should Hay or Grain be Fed 
First? — Bleeding Tumor on Foot near Fetlock — Sampers — Con- 
dition Powders — Watering While Warm — Ring-Bone and Spav- 
ins — Incipient Spavin — Cooked Food for Horses — Feeding Work 
Horses — Paralysis — Collar Galls — Mange — Stocked Legs — Knaw- 
ing Feed Boxes — Feeding Salt — Chronic Grease Heel — Feeding 
Mare in Foal — Bit for Hard Mouth — Lice on Colt — Sore Eyes — 
What is the Cause and Cure — Rubbing tails 215 

CHAPTER XLII. 

■Questions Answered by Dr. S. D. Brimhall — Contracted Feet- 
Sweeney — Ring-Bone — Heaves — Glanders 200 

CHAPTER XLIIL 

Questions Answered by Dr. R. M. Dodds — Ulcerated Tooth — Pufifed 
and Swollen Shoulder — Azoturia — Barb Wire Cut — Puffs on 
Hock Joint — Puff on Pastern Joint — Bog Spavin — Running Sore 
on Horse's Neck — Sweeney — Splints — Scratches — Shoe Boil — 
Wind-Galls — Warts — Grease Heel — Ring-Bone — Bone-Spavin — 
Quarter-Crack — "Prick" of the Sole — Hoof-Bound Feet — Stom- 
ach Worms 222 



CHAPTER I. 

SCIENTIFIC BREEDING. 

Science involves methods of acquiring knowledge; methods of or- 
ganizmg knowledge acquired with experience. Methods demonstrate 
the digested experience of men and result in what is known as "com- 
mon sense," the accumulation of which can properly be called knowledge 
arranged in order-science. 

Common-sense breeding is as nearly applied science as we can de- 
fine the subject. Webster says, applied science is a knowledge of the 
facts or phenomena as produced by means of causes or laws. The laws 
of generation, in the very nature of things, are not, and can never be 
reduced to a mathematical science. Scientific breeding, therefore is 
simply keeping within the lines possessing the strongest demonstrated 
inheritance of all the qualities desired in the offspring, and when we 
come to understand the matter, there will be nothing regarded as mys- 
terious about scientific breeding. It is common-sense breeding or the 
production of what is wanted fiom animals possessing the desired char- 
acteristics for many generations back with the least variation. 

SPECIAL LINE BREEDING FOR UNIFORMITY OF CONFOR- 
MATION. 

Two hundred and fifty years' breeding (never out-crossing) from 
the survival of the fittest in the running-horse line, has demonstrated 
that we have attained the greatest degree of perfection that the world 
has ever known, both in quality of animals and production of speed- 
and when we consider the development of the American trotter and 
oacer, and the close application of that great natural law of "like pro- 
ducing like, ' our production of performers is simply an astonishment 
to all other countnes-and all this has been accomplished practically 
within the past quarter of a century. But if the question is asked, 
what particular horse was able to transmit this wonderful inheritance? 
no one IS to be found who is able to answer satisfactorily Yet the 
accumulative force along the same line increases in its onward course, 
as the htde brook in its wanderings towards the mighty ocean becomes 
a great river. To make further improvement in size, style, action, color 
or any other desirable quality, the same rules and common sense must 
be complied with, within the type, line of performance, or breed Cross- 
ing any of the different types or breeds with a view of scientific improve- 
ment IS tampering with uncertainties, and should be characterized as at- 



2 HORSE SENSE. 

tempted science without sense, logic without reason; a move backwards, 
instead of forwards; a tearing down of the work of improvement that 
those before have labored for generations to establish. Very serious, 
if not irreparable, damage is often done by one injudicious out-cross. 
Then how important it is that we should have some systematic way of 
investigating all of our breeding problems. 

STATE OR GOVERNMENT LAWS CONTROLLING SERVICE 

STALLIONS. 

If the principles of common-sense breeding cannot be maintained 
by mutual consent, through a state breeders' association, or other so- 
cieties, then we should have an enactment of law that will prohibit the 
us of any but the best of sires for public service. The public demands 
horses of size, style, substance, action, symmetry of conformation, with 
as nearly perfect feet and legs as possible, and how are we to comply 
with this demand unless we make a strenuous efifort to breed what is 
wanted? To do this, no unsound, blemished, ill-shaped, irregular-gaited 
or bad-dispositioned stallion should be permitted public service. We 
have enough good sires and dams to make a great showing, if they were 
selected and brought together in their proper relation; but so long as 
the force of this matter is not fully considered, the crossroads, nonde- 
script stallion will be used, and the country, as well as the individual, 
must sufifer the irremediable consequence. 

NATURE'S LAW OF "LIKE PRODUCING LIKE," THE TRUE 

PRINCIPLE. 

That fundamental natural law of "like begetting like, or the like- 
ness of some ancestor," must never be lost sight of in any of the lines 
of breeding. The most common error committed is, that the remote 
ancestral inheritance is lost sight of by most breeders; they confine 
themselves to an examination of the immediate ancestors only, when 
an acquaintance with the remote progenitors is of much greater im- 
portance in what they are trying to accomplish. , 

If the progeny would always take after the immediate parents, thea 
the question of breeding would be easy, and almost anyone could make 
progress. But when we see the produce taking back after some remote 
ancestor possessing undesirable qualities, then it is that we often hesitate, 
and even doubt our own observations. 

HORSE-BREEDERS MUST HAVE A DEFINITE OBJECT IN 

VIEW. 

Breeders to be very successful must know positively all about the 
breeding animals that they are using, and to do this successfully they 
must be familiar with the records and performance of these animals. 
Many a breeder, from neglect to register his animals, has lost untold 
advantages to himself and others who would like to use his breeding 
stock. The registry is the only safe means of perpetuating the good 
qualities of the breeds, and is the only safe guide to purchasers in tracing 
the antecedents of their own or others' animals; and until we direct our 



HORSE SENSE. 3 

attention to this, as well as to the merits of the individual, we will be 
making but little headway in improving any of our breeding stock. 

"Biology treats of living matter, and the study of living tissue. It 
has to do with the origin, structure, development, function and dis- 
tribution of animals — the science of life in its widest acceptation — scien- 
tific inquiries into the first origin of life and the changes it has under- 
gone from the earliest traceable period until now;" consequently the 
importance of the breeder knowing just what he is doing. 

AN IDEAL PRODUCTION SHOULD BE KEPT IN MIND. 

The breeder should have a definite object in view. He should have 
an ideal production in his mind, and every move he makes should con- 
form to that object and the law of reproduction. To breed horses suc- 
cessfully, we must bring applied science (common sense) to our aid and 
•direction. When the laws of horse breeding are fully understood, we 
will have fewer "offs" than we now have perfections; it will be just as 
easy to distinguish the different breeds of horses as it is now the several 
types of cattle — as the Shorthorn, Devon, Holstein or Jersey. 

MENTAL AS WELL AS PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS MUST 
BE MAINTAINED. 

There is this difference between horse and cattle breeding: The 
horse, in addition to his physical constitution, has a mental organiza- 
tion that must be studied and maintained in relation to his education 
and duties. Il is much easier to improve the bodily defects than those 
of the mental characteristics. 

The foundation rock upon which to build a permanent improvement 
in horse breeding must be based on soundness in all breeding animals, 
both near and remote, for the strong reason, that all defects or unsound- 
ness are just as transmissible as the meritorious qualities. 

DEFECTS AND WEAKNESS ARE TRANSMITTED TO THE 

OFFSPRING. 

At breeding time the sire and dam should be most scrutinizingly ex- 
amined for defects, conformation, size, style, color, gait, coat, skin, 
mane and tail, character of feet and legs, muscular power, digestive ca- 
pacity, stamina and intelligence. Each and every part should be care- 
fully weighed, and if not found to be well adapted to each other, then 
look further for breeders, as it will not pay to produce undesirable, un- 
salable, good-for-nothing animals. The weak places or parts should 
be strengthened, rather than to try to make the strong ones stronger. 
Weakness of a similar character in both sire and dam is almost sure to 
be still weaker in the offspring. 

SELECT A SPECIAL TYPE AND STAY WITH THAT TYPE. 

Now, to sum the whole matter up in a "nutshell:" Select the type 
of horses desired, and then choose the strongest of the type, all things 
considered, and confine your operations to the type decided on. If it 
is runners, take the best of the thoroughbreds, and stay by them. If 



4 HORSE SENSE. 

it is trotters and pacers, there are plenty to make selections from, and 
stay there. It it is draft horses of any of the established breeds, you 
can make good and careful selections out of them, and confine your breed- 
ing to that class. If your choice happens to be with the coachers, you 
can possibly find those that will fill the bill, and reproduce themselves; 
but this last is the hardest to maintain, as the fashions are constantly 
changing with the fastidious people who are the buyers. Saddle horses 
will in time become a luxury, and they will not be hard to find, as they 
are well established in their gaits, and breed with great uniformity; but 
they, too, must be kept within their line and breeding, for improve- 
ment. 

HORSE BREEDING SHOULD INTEREST EVERYBODY. 

Reader, will you kindly consider this breeding subject in its true 
light, and from now on give it the attention that it justly deserves, for 
the interest you have in it, the interest your neighbor has in it, the in- 
terest your country has in horse improvement, and also the great ad- 
vantages that will accrue to the country if we can attract foreign buyers. 



WAKE UP. 



"Wake up, you dormant breeders, 

Who've been sleeping for past years, 
Strike out anew — the night has passed — 

The morning light appears. 
The times have changed; cash buyers now 

Are scouring east and west, 
Ready to lay their ducats down 

For horses of the best. 
The horse with size and action, 

Well formed, with color right, 
Is hard to find, but when he's found 

The price they will not fight. 
The scarcity of horses soon 

Will open up your eyes; 
The prices that the fine ones bring 

Will fill you with surprise. 
There's money in horse-breeding now; 

By the time your colt is five 
You'll find he's 'lasses in the jug. 

And honey in the hive." 



CHAPTER II. 

RIGHT AND WRONG CONFORMATION OF THE HORSE'S 

LEGS. 

The feet and legs of the horse hold about the same relation to his 
general usefulness that the "running gear" does to the wagon. If the 
axles are sprung, the wheels dished, and one wheel does not follow an- 
other (don't track, as it were), the wagon will run heavy, is not strong, 
and is really a failure for the purposes intended; and it is just about the 
same with a horse that has deformed legs, or if they are hung to the body 
in a twisted condition. He will move awkwardly; he is always interfer- 
ing, or is not strong and durable. The illustrations represent the differ- 
ent conditions better than we can describe them in cut No. i. Numbers 
I and 8 show how the front and hind legs should be attached to the body. 




13 



14 



11 12 

Cut No. I. 
SIMILAR DEFORMITIES OF BOTH FRONT AND HIND LEGS, 



6 



HORSE SENSE. 



Numbers 2 and 9 show the knees, hocks and ankles too close together. 
Numbers 3 and 10 show the legs nearer in line, but twisted, — toeing out 
behind and in front. Numbers 6 and 13 show that the feet are too wide 
apart, and the horse, of necessity, must be a sprawling mover. In num- 
bers 7 and 14 the knees and hocks are bent outwardly and the feet in- 
ward. All these conditions, except numbers i and 8, are to be avoided 
where improvement in breeding is aimed at, and the less of any of these 
deviations from the right and true formation the better for usefulness of 
the animal. 

In other words, any deviation from the best form is to be regarded 
with suspicion, and, to be fully comprehended, the following illustrations 
will serve as object lessons, in the comparison of mares and stallions, 
with a view of mating for improvement. 

THE FEET AND LEGS OF THE HORSE CONSTITUTE THE 
RUNNING GEAR. 

As the feet and legs of our horses constitute their "running gear," 
their means of locomotion, we wii! first take a look at the front legs, 
in which cut No. 2 shows five sets of legs; only one set of which should 
be regarded as of good form. 




Fig. 1. Fig. 2. Fig. 3. Fig. 4. Fig. 5. 

Cut No. 2. 
LEGS OF HORSES SHOWING RIGHT AND WRONG. 
Fig. I (one the left side) drop true from the body, knees and toes 



HORSE SENSE. 7 

square to the front, and about the same distance apart on the inside, at 
the arms and at the ankles. 

Fig 2 is where the toes turn in, which generally produces an awkward 
movement and inclination to "forge" or strike the hind shoes against 
the front feet or shoes in trotting. 

Fig 3 shows the feet wide apart, which, also, makes an awkward 
mover, and a like disposition to "forge" and also to "stumble." 

Fig. 4 represents the toes turning out, the twist in the leg being 
at the knee. This is a bad conformation in movement, and the liability 
to interfere at the ankles. 

Fig. 5 shows a like deformity to that of Fig 4, only worse, as the 
twist is at the elbow instead of at the knee, and when the legs are close 
together (and they generally are), the ankles, tendons and knees suffer 
from interference, and can only be remedied by "boots." Many of our 
speedy trotting and pacing horses "toe out," and as a consequence, we 
see them "booted" from hoof to elbow for protection. 

BE SURE OF SPRINGY PASTERNS, WHEN EITHER LONG OR 

SHORT. 

The front legs should stand well under the horse, from both a side 
and front view, and there should be a nice, easy spring at the "pastern." 
Straight "pasterns" (from a side view) are objectionable on account of 
the jar to the supporting column of bones. The illustration, Cut No. 3, 
shows the side view with a line running in the center of the fore leg to 
the ground just at the heel. The dotted line running through the cen- 
ter of the foot and pjastern, gives about the proper angle for sufficient 
spring in the pastern to save the jars to the column of bones. It had 
better be more rather than less springy. 





Cut No. 3. 

A— OUTSIDE OF SOLE AND FROG. B— INSIDE OF SOLE AND 

FROG. C— PROPER ANGLE OF PASTERN AT SIDE VIEW. 

Illustration A, cut No. 3, shows the outer sole and frog, width of the 
foot and general appearance when fitted with a plain shoe. 



8 



HORSE SENSE. 



Illustration B, gives a very good idea of the appearance of the inside 
of the horny wall, floor or sensitive sole and frog. 

C, shows a side view of the foot, pastern, ankle and cannon. The 
perpendicular line through the middle of the cannon or front leg, shows 
where it should come in contact with the ground for the best results. 
The dotted line shows that the angle of the foot and pastern are about 
the same — 50 degrees. 




Fig. 6. Fig. 7. Fig. 8. Fig. 9. 

Cut No. 4. 
REAR VIEW OF THE HIND LEGS AND FEET. 

. Cut 4 shows four sets of hind legs from the rear view, none of which 
could be properly termed perfect. 

Fig. 6 shows the toes turned outward, which indicates not only a 
weakness, but the action cannot be smooth and easy. Fig. 7 is a case 
where the toes are turned inward, which also makes an awkward moving 
animal, with a tendency to "forge," (except the body of the horse is 
very long). Fig. 8 shows the hind legs too close together, which gives 
a tendency to "interfere" at the ankles, as also to "forge." Fig. 9 is a 
case where the hind feet are too far apart, which not only makes an awk- 
ward mover, but the tendency is to work the back too much in traveling^ 
and consequently the animal soon gets tired. 



HORSE SENSE, 9 

Cut 5 shows four sets of hind legs from a side view, none of which 
we would call perfect. 




Fig. 10. Fig. 11. Fig. 13. Fig. 13. 

Cut No. 5. 
SIDE VIEW OF THE HIND QUARTERS AND HIND LEGS. 

Fig. 10 shows an unbalanced conformation; the legs are too far back 
of the body, which makes an extra strain on the back, and the hind 
legs are dragged after the horse, rather than serving as propellers. Fig. 
II is nearly, as bad a conformation as the former (Fig. 10), and stands 
too straight on his pasterns. He will not drag his hind legs quite as 
much as the other, but he will almost drive his hind feet into the ground 
in trotting, which gives a terrible jar to the bones of the legs. Fig. 12 
is a case where the legs are well under the body, but so straight through- 
out that the movement can neither be easy or springy. Fig 13 is the 
best poise of the hind legs for the support of the body, but they are 
also too straight to wear well or glide over the surface smoothly. The 
pasterns in all, are" too straight even if the legs were properly joined to 
the body. 



CHAPTER III. 

DIFFERENT TYPES OF HORSES AND THEIR GENERAL 

CHARACTER. 

In treating of the different types of horses here, it must be borne in 
mind that only a passing notice can be given, but enough to give the 
reader a definite idea that there is a great difference and that each have 
.their place for the duties required. We must select the type best suited 
for the work to be performed with the least wear and tear on the con- 
;stitution of the animal, and as our very best and greatest improvements 
in the equine race started with the horses of the desert — the Arabian, 
it is only justice to this noble animal, that we begin here. 

THE ARABIANS HAVE QUALITY, INTELLIGENCE, ACTIVITY 
AND ENDURANCE. 

The foot of the Arab horse is round and large, with a hard, tough 
■wall. The bones of the pastern-joint are fine, oblique and springy. The 
cannon-bones are short and fine in proportion to the back sinews, but 
have never been known to break down. The knees and hocks are 
broad, clean cut and very strong. The shoulders are well clothed with 
muscle, but the hind quarters are much narrower than in our horses. 
The line of the hind quarter is finer, action freer and the upper thigh 
longer than the English thoroughbred. In body the Arab is much 
like the thoroughbred (the source of the latter) except shorter in the 
back and possibly higher at the croup, the tail "coming out high up. 
The barrel is round, deep at the girth, with shoulders as good as any 
horse, and forearms standing out with unusual prominence. The head 
of the Arabian horse looks larger than that of the thoroughbred, chiefly 
•on account of the depth and spread of the jowl-width between the jaw 
bones, giving plenty of room for the windpipe and an easy poise and 
freedom of motion to the head. The forehead is prominent, the muzzle 
fine and eyes large, and very mild in expression. The ears are fine and 
beautifully shaped, though not what would be called small. The neck 
of the Arab is light and fine, with the head attached at a different angle 
from the thoroughbred. The style of the Arab horse is something very 
striking, with head and tail carried with such grace and character that 
must be seen to be appreciated. The pure bred Arabian is a low, easy 
:gaited horse, and is good at the walk, trot or gallop, but the trot is but 
little indulged in with the Arab. In disposition, the Arabian horses 
are gentle and affectionate — familiar to almost the degree of being 



HORSE SENSE. 



11 



-troublesome. They have no fear of man whatever, for they do not un- 
derstand that thev are to be hurt. This extreme gentleness and courage 
is inherited, and the young colt never thinks of getting on the other 
side of its dam for protection, as ours often do. 




Cut No. 6. 
A TYPICAL ARABIAN. 

This fine illustration of a typical Arabian horse gives a good idea of 
what fine quality this race of horses possess. No wonder there is so 
much said about reinforcing the blood of our horses by a return to the 
Arab, and we can here readily see why all breeders are so proud to be 
able to trace the lineage of their horses to that of the Arabian-Breeders 
of all classes of horses strive to trace theirs back to this noble race. 

The Arabian horse in his native country, is never viscious, shies or 
.shows signs of fear, nor wince at fire arms. In these respects they are 
very different from other horses. The colts are handled by the chil- 
dren and played with from birth. They are ridden by the boys of light 
weight at one year old, and this assists in making them very kind and 
gentle. The only objection that can possibly be brought against the 
Arabian horse is his size. He is small, but their strength and endur- 
ance is almost beyond comprehension, as they igo surprisingly long dis- 
tances under heavy weights without tiring. They may be ridden day 



12 HORSE SENSE. 

after day, with only grass for feed and yet they do not lose courage or 
condition, and are ready to gallop at the end of a long journey. 

The Arabs never ride stallions when in war, as they are more apt 
to neigh and apprize the enemy of their location or presence. 

The principle colors are bay, grey, chestnut, brown or black. Roan, 
piebald, duns, cream and calico are not to be found among the pure 
Arabians. 

In conclusion, let it be fully understood that inch for inch, the Arabian 
horses are superior to any other type for the uses to which they are by 
nature adapted. 

The description of the Arabian horses will apply well to that of the 
others to follow, with the exceptions of size and development for the 
duties to be performed. The Arabian standing at the head in intelli- 
gence, quality, endurance, courage and docility, he is naturally placed 
at the head of the list of types of horses. 

Tradition states that Ishmael, the son of Abraham, who, when he 
was turned out of his father's tent, captured a mare that he found run- 
ning wild and made her his companion, which gave him the honor of 
being the first tamer and trainer of horses. 

Represented in cut No. 6, is a typical Arab horse, which the reader 
will do well to examine carefully and compare with the description. 

GENERALS OF EUROPE FORMERLY RODE ARABIAN 

HORSES. 

"In the wars of the first Napoleon, the French officers captured the 
most valiant of their battle steeds from the Arabs. Napoleon's most 
famous charger was a pure white, pure bred Arabian stallion. Marengo^ 
the famous white horse that Napoleon rode at Waterloo, was a pure bred 
A'*abian. This is the war horse that the great artist Vernet represents 
the great Corsican as riding, in his immortal painting of 'Napoleon 
Crossing the Alps.' But there are no more Marengoes in Arabia today. 
The race is fast dying out with the degeneracy of the Arabs. 

ENGLISH THOROUGHBRED. 

This type of horses has been bred for many, many generations for 
the specific purpose of running a given distance in the shortest possible 
tim.e, and have never been outcrossed. They are bred from the survival 
of the fitest only, and whenever a reinforcement of the blood is required, 
the original Arabian or Barb sire is resorted to. The thoroughbred is 
never crossed with the Morgan, Hambletonian, Mambrino Chief, Hack- 
ney, French coach, or draft breeds with a thought of improving the 
speed of the runner. 

FORM FOR A SPECIFIC PURPOSE. 

Form for the purpose, together with nerve force and the actual per- 
formance at running, are the requisites of the breeder of thoroughbreds. 

The illustration of "Imported Glencoe," the Greyhound dog, "Min- 
neapolis," and the fighting cock, "Jack, the Ripper" (Cut No. 7), make 



HORSE SENSE. 



13 



-three of a kind— all gamesters built on a plan for active work, and 
Ihe reader will note the similarity oi form in horse and dog. 




Cut No. 7. 
"Imp. Glencoe," "Minneapolis," and rooster, "Jack, the Ripper." 

THREE OF A KIND, ALL GAMESTERS. 
Many of these horses have become noted on the turf as well as on 
the fields of battle. 

WAR HORSES AND FAMOUS CHARGERS. 
At the battle of Waterloo, the duke of Wellington rode that great 
thoroughbred horse, "Copenhagen," and Lord Cardigan, mounted on 
the chestnut thoroughbred, "Ronald," led the charge of the famous 
"600" at Balaklava. But where are the "Copenhagens" and "Ronalds" 
of today? Echo answers, all dead. 

Gen. Grant's favorite horse, "Cincinnati," Gen. Lee's, "Telegraph," 
and the fated Gen. Custer's "Frog Town," all carried a lange percent- 
age of thoroughbred blood. 

THE MORGAN TYPE OF HORSES POSSESSED MANY VALU- 
ABLE CHARACTERISTICS. 

Morgan horses in the United States (their native home) for a long 
time in the history of the country, and especially in the New England 
states, stood out prominently as next to the Arabian horse in courage, 



14 



HORSE SENSE. 



intelligeTice, style and endurance, but like the Arab horse, the greatest 
objection was his size. 

POTENCY OF MORGAN BLOOD SHOWS MERIT IN BREED- 
ING. 
The prepotency of the Morgan blood, shows itself as prominently 
down through many generations of outcrossing as that of any other type 
of our horses. The characteristics of form, style, prompt action and 
endurance is still manifest more particularly in the admixture with the 
descendents of old Messenger, the remote fountain of the trotting horses 
of today. A combination of Hambletcnian, lo, Mambrina Chief, ii, and 
almost any branch of the Morgan families, gives compactness of form, 
rapid action, level head, good finish and graceful carriage. By careful 
analysis of many of our best pcformers in harness races of today, will 
be found the combination above represented, added to this will be found 
the thoroughbred blood, of many different strains. 




Cut No. 8. 
GREEN MOUNTAIN MORGAN 2ND. 
The illustration of the general appearance, compactness of form,, 
style and conformation, etc., is best shown in cut No. 8, of Green Moun- 
tain Morgan, 2nd, of which this is said to be an excellent likeness, and 
was sired by Gififord Morgan, by Woodbury Morgan, by old Justin 
Morgan: dam by W^oodbury Morgan, by old Justin Morgan. He was 
an inbred Morgan, and one of the handsomest of the race; foaled 1834,^ 
14^ hands high, and weighed 1,100 pounds. 



HORSE SENSE. 



15 



IDEAL LIGHT HARNESS HORSE. 

While the cut No. Syi gives a good idea of the type, it does not do 
the individual justice. This house was owned by the author until more 
than twenty-five years old, and a more perfect or ideal form for the 
purpose, better, more intelligent and safer individual would be almost 
impossible to find. He is registered in Wallace's first volume of the 
American Trotting Register, under the name of Security, and he was 
rightly named. Like David Harum's horse, a "woman could drive 
him as well as a man." But unlike his horse, he never balked. The 




Cut No. 8^. 

SECURITY. 

Beauty, quality and character combined. 

wife of the author preferred to drive him to any other of fifty or more 
horses on the farm, as he was absolutely safe, day or night. He was 
all that could be desired in ideal form, road qualities and character; but 
he was not bred right to be able to perpetuate these very meritorious 
qualities. He was the result of two very dififerent prepotent types of 
horses, and he had taken on the good qualities of both, but was un- 
able to transmit to his progeny, what he himself had inherited. He 
was a cross of the Morgan and thoroughbred types and his colts were 
never equal to the sire. Out of fifty or more of our own raising, 



16 



HORSE SENSE. 



scarcely any two were of the same type. One going towards the thor- 
oughbred, and another to the Morgan, and so on, which made his work 
as a sire very unsatisfactory, and still he got many good horses, but of 
no specific type. He was greatly enjoyed by the family as a grand 
good horse, but a disappointment as a breeder. 




Cut No. 9. 
THE PURE-BRED ORLOFF TROTTING MARE BAJADERKA. 

This fine specimen of the Orlofif breed shows indications of the care 
in which the Russians have maintained the color and general type of the 
grey Arab while increasing the size. This class of horses is prized very 
highly in their native country, and many of them are great trotters. 



HORSE SENSE. 



17 



THE RUSSIAN OR ORLOFF TYPE OF HORSES. 

These elegant horses of Russia, are from carefully preserved descend- 
ents of the pure bred Arabian sires, taken to Russia for the improve- 
ment of their light carriage and saddle horses, and are worthy of notice 
■here. They are much improved in size without losing much of the 
quality and beauty of the Arabian. For an object lesson, the reader is 
referred to cut No. 9, which speaks for itself better than words can 
describe. 

NATURE'S LAW OF SELECTION VERIFIED 

Here is an illustration, cut No. 10, of what the American trotting 
family of horses should be brought to-horses of size, style symetry 
substance and action-and when they have the desired speed,' they will 
bring all the money one has the conscience to ask. If they lack the 
speed, then we may have the grand carriage horses demanded in- the 
markets at long prices. If they have neither the speed or fancy style, 
they will make excellent roadsters or splendid farm horses of the active 




CONQUERER STAR "(2:23).' BY NELSON (2:09). 



18 HORSE SENSE. 

If the American people had given the attention to this type of ani- 
mals, rather than to speed without regard to type, then we would have 
today ideality in form, grandure in style, intelligence almost human, size 
to suit the varied tastes and poetry of motion. Cut No. lo is a good 
representation of Conquerer Star, two-year-old record, 2:23 — sired by the 
great Nelson, record 2:09 trotting. His dam. Bright Star, by Star- 
light. His grand dam, Violet, by Volunteer. His great-grand sire, 
Tom Rolfe, a son of the famous Pocahontas, that took a pacing record 
to wagon nearly fifty years ago of 2:i7li. We have here a combina- 
tion of Hambletonian, Mambrino Chief, and Morgan blood, with the 
pacer added, which today is so harmoniously intermingled with the 
trotting strains, that by the form of the animal there is no telling whether 
the gait will be of the trot or pace. It may be either or both, with a 
good prospect of additional speed added. The two gaits of today are 
interchangable. 

AMERICAN SADDLE HORSE. 

That this high class of special creation of American origin is des- 
tined to become very popular among the wealthy classes there is no 
question. 

The American saddle horse is one of the very best organized ani- 
mals of the dififerent types, all things considered, and is a creation of 
beauty in outline, graceful in movement, intelligent akin to human, 
and more capable in the ''fise and action of his legs than all others of 
the equine race. 

AMERICAN SADDLE HORSE'S ABILITY TO CHANGE OF 

GAITS. 

The use of the legs in going dififerent gaits, is more remarkable with, 
the saddle bred horse than any other. He seems to be endowed with- 
the ability of instantly changing from one gait to another without hinder- 
ance or falter in movement. With the best specimens of saddle bred, 
horses, the dififerent gaits are clear and distinct., and free from friction. 
The plain walk is flat-footed and 'smooth; the fast walk (running walk». 
or fox-trot) is easy and without constraint; the trot, is a line movement; 
the rack, is steady and free from what would be called force, and with- 
out a pacing movement; the canter, is slow and clear, without shuffle- 
and performed with either foot in the lead. The quality of the horse- 
is fine, substance reasonable, weight in proportion to height, with evi- 
d^ce of endurance and good manners; much of the latter acquired by 
a^fepef education, which is only a demonstration of ability to go the- 
i^ffefent gaits and the instructor, to show when and how they should, 
be performed. Illustration seen in cut No. 11, is that of Black Squirrel 
2nd, and shows a typical animal of the type. Strong at every point,. 
?tyle front and rear, with a faultless "running gear" — feet and legs — 
which insures safety of seat, fearlessness in action, with courage and 



HORSE SENSE. 



19' 



horse sense, sufficient to make the rider enjoy horse-back riding to any 
other way of going. 




Cut No. II. 

BLACK SQUIRREL 2ND. 

Champion Purse Winner. 

GENER.\L PURPOSE HORSE A RARE SPECIMEN OF ANY 
BREED OR TYPE. 

The general purpose horse is more of an ideal animal than a reality. 
We have been trying for many generations to produce this much covet 
type of horses, with now and then an individual animal that seemed 
to just fill the bill, but when we have endeavored to build upon this prin- 
ciple, failure has met us at every hand and we must content ourselves 
with the individuals to be found among the dififerent types. 

Cut No. 12 shows the stallion of all work, and a close inspection will 
satisfy the majority that he is large enough (1,300 pounds), and when his 
breeding is known, none will deny but that he is possessed with actioit 
sufificient for the general purpose horse. He shows strong at every 
point, level headed, and to those looking for this class, he no doubt will 
fill the bill. This is a very good likeness of Red Wilkes, 1749, by 
George Wilkes, 519, by Hambletonian, 10: 



so 



HORSE SENSE. 



Red Wilkes is the sire (at this writing) of 145 trotters and pacers, 
with records from 2:06^4 to 2:30. He has ^^ sons, that have sired 357 
trotters and pacers from 2:coj4 to 2:30. He has 62 daughters, that 
are the dams of 94 trotters and pacers with records of 2:30 and below, 
and yet the casual observer would say to himself that he looks more 
like he would sire common work horses than those for racing purposes. 
Here again we have the combination of Hambletonian, 10, Mambrino 
Chief, II, and the Morgan strains, and we get compactness of form, 
size and substance to suit the most critical. 







Cut No. 12. 
ALL PURPOSE STALLION. 



Cut 13 represents a brood mare that will mate well with the stallion 
lor good serviceable horses of all work. She has well sprung pasterns, 
good feet, and legs well under her. She has an excellent digestive de- 
partment, with rciorny pelvis. She is muscular, has plenty of courage, 
and a mare of strong individuality. Examine this stallion and mare, 
point by point for mating. 

This is Rose Chief, by Brown Chief, 5016, by Mambrino Chief, 11, 
•dam. Lady Nichols, by John DiUard, by Indian Chief, 832, by Blood's 
Black Hawk. This all-purpose mare bred to this all-purpose stallion, 
produced Prince Wilkes, with a trotting record of 2:14^ under old 
methods and high wheels. 



HORSE SENSE. 



21 



THE STRICTLY CARRIAGE HORSE MAY BE FOUND IN SEV- 
ERAL BREEDS. 

The carriage horse is in great demand, not only in this country, but 
for exportation. He must have size, style and action. While we have 
had many importations of stallions to mate with our American mares 
to- supply this want in carriage teams so far, they have not filled the 
expectations of importers or breeders. The law of like begetting like 
applies to the blood lines in both stallion and mare to be bred together 
as well as in general conformation; consequently, all cross breeding- 
must be considered to a great degree as experimental, and, remember, 
experiments are always attended with more or less failures before per- 
fection is attained. 




Cut No. 13. 
ALL PURPOSE BROOD MARE. 

The French Coach and Hackney sires imported to this country- 
might prove very valuable if we possessed the mares adapted to their 
blood, but up to the present time their services on our native mares, 
has been too disappointing for recommendation. 

Cut 14 shows the American coach horse, with speed enough to. satisfy- 
any carriage road rider, 1,250 pounds, sired by a son of Hamhietonian. 
10, dam by a son of Mambrino Chief, 11. 



22 HORSE SENSE. 

THE CARRIAGE BROOD MARE OF AMERICAN BLOOD. 

This class of mares also must be of our American breeding or from 
imported stock tliat trace in the same blood line channels. 

The fact that matched teams of typical carriage horses bring the 
highest prices of any other class in the markets of the world, should 
encourage the breeder who is the possessor of mares capable of supply- 
ing this demand, to devote time, care and money in the selection of 
stallions to mate them with to this end, remembering that breeding 
is as essential as conformation for uniform results. 



.^ 








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L 


Q 


rt 


1 


1 


11 


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.-*_-* 



Gut No. 14. 
AMERICAN CARRIAGE STALLION. 

COMPARISON OF BLOOD LINES AS NECESSARY AS THAT 
OF CONFORMATION. 

Comparison of the mares with stallions in conformation is with the 
view of correcting weaknesses and constitutional defects, but a com- 
parison of blood lines is equally necessary where an improvement or 
leven the maintainance of the general characteristics is desired. 

Cut 15 is to illustrate the character of a matron to be bred to this 
class of stallions; compare the two, point by point, for the duties of the 
carriage for active work. 

This mare is a member of the Clay, Pilot, Jr., Mambrino Chief and 
Morgan families. 



HORSE SENSE. 
COACH HORSE TYPES CONSIDERED. 



23 



From time immemorial, the t}'pe designated as the coach horse, has 
teen the ambition of breeders to supply the fastidious people of wealth 
and fashion with carriage and coach teams, but up to the present time 
they have had to depend largely on the selection of individual animals 
(from any source) to meet the wants of fashion rather than the estab- 
lishing of a typical £ind uniform breed or family of this high class of 
horses. 




Cut No. 15. 
AMERICAN CARRIAGE BROOD MARE. 

SIZE, STYLE, ACTION AND COLOR AIMED AT. 

To get the desired size, together with style and action, has required 
a. crossing of specific types of the heavy and light horses, relying in 
the beginning on Arabian sires for form, style and spirit, and dams 
of some of the larger types of horses, and later, with the English thor- 
oughbred sires and dams of the heavier stock, but the stiff-kneed action 
of the running horse has so often failed to get the desired action that 
there have been many disappointments in the results. As to the color 
of coach horses, probably the bay has a more universal standing, but 
people dififer so widely in taste, that what is fashionable this year may be 
ofif-color next year. Some want solid colors and others want white 
markings. 



2S4 HORSE SENSE. 

ALMOST ALL COUNTRIES TRYING TO GET THE POPULAR 
COACH PIORSE. 

While all countries are and have been trying to evolve just the desired 
animal for the coach department, it seems such a difficult problem that 
none have yet demonstrated to the entire satisfaction of any country 
that it is based on a solid foundation. 




Cut No. i6. 
HACKNEY. 

The illustration, cut No. 16, is a good specimen of the hackney type;- 
but vi^e should ever deplore and forcibly condemn the practice of cutting 
off the tail — nature's wise provision to the horse for protection against 
his insect pests. 

HACKNEY TYPE OF COACH HORSE. 

This is an old type of animal of any breed that was considered valu- 
able for all purposes, or in other virords, a "hack about" horse of Eng- 
land; and generally a cross bred animal. But of late years the best 
specimens have been selected and bred together for the desired pur- 
pose with good results for their native country. It has been proven 
that the native stallions of this country of predominating Morgan blood, 



HORSE SENSE. 



25 



crossed with the hackney mares of England, do far better than the 
English stallions have shown with American mares. Many importa- 
tions of stallions of this type have been used in this country, but up to 
date they have not met the mares that would enable them to establish a 
fixedness of form, color, action and character that was expected gener- 
ally. Many grand specimens of individuality can be found in England, 
but- in this country they have proved more or less disappointing with 
our American bred mares, as we have not the same type of animals to 
breed them to, and cross breeding is always attended with uncertainties. 




Cut No. 17. 

FRENCH COACH. 

Cut No. 17 is a three-quarter front view of a splendid specimen of 

the imported French coach horse, but like the English hackney, he has 

been mutilated at the rear end, and deprived of nature's protection against 

his insect enemies, a senseless and barbaric practice. 

FRENCH COACH HORSE IN A FAIR WAY. 

While the French Coach horse cannot be said to be more potent 
away from home, he is certainly on the high road to success in the es- 
tablishment of a specific type in his own country, owing to the interest 
the French government is taking in their development, by selecting the 



26 



HORSE SENSE. 



very best specimens for breeding purposes and controlling the breeding 
animals for tlie best results. This is the only manner of obtaining a 
true type of animals, and eventually they will gain their point of pro- 
ducing a coach horse of merit. 

AMERICAN BREEDERS NOT IN THE BACKGROUND. 

With the many noble specimens of the Arab, thoroughbred, and 
Morgan strains of horses we have had in this country, and the hard 
work in the development of the American trotter, we have no doubt 
now the very best material for the foundation of the typical coach horse, 
and as soon as we turn our undivided attention in that direction we 
will astonish *;he world in being able to get all the required essentials 
demanded. 

Had we given as mtich attention to the development of the coach 
horse as we have to the speedy animal, we would have been at the top 
in form, style, action and possibly size and color, before this time. The 
introduction of the foreign coach .stallions so far, has not seemed to 
work well with the mares of this country, and about twenty years' ex- 
perience demonstrates that from such stallions as have been imported 
and bred to the mares of the country, we can find but very few speci- 
mens that meet the demands of the coach markets. 




Cut No. i8. 
PILOT BOY AND AMELIA, 2:09^. 

The outline sketch here presented, cut No. 18, is that of Pilot Boy, 
2:ogJi, and Amelia, 2:0914, both by Pilot Medium, 1597, by Happy Me- 
dium, 400, by Hambletonian, 10. The dam of Pilot Medium was Tackey, 
by Pilot, Jr., 12., grand-dam, Jenny Lind, by Bellfounder. 



HORSE SENSE. 



27 



AMERICAN BRED LIGHT ROAD HORSES. 



The light road horses of America excel every other country, and are 
acknowledged to be the best in the world for the purpose. While the 
coach and heavy carriage horses are expected to have high action, that 
of the typical every day road horse must be of the low gaited order and 
should not be too heavy. Weight beyond the necessities of the load 
to be carried, is just so much dead weight to be carried by the horses 
themselves, to say nothing of the extra amount of feed of support for 
the extra live weight to be sustained. 




Cut No. 19. 
AMERICAN COACH OR CARRIAGE HORSES. 

The illustration here shown, cut No. 19, is that of a team of half 
brothers, bred in about the manner indicated, and were owned by a 
friend of the author, and are very hard to surpass in many particulars. 

AMERICAN BRED HEAVY CARRIAGE HORSES. 

Wherever the trotting bred horses of this country have attained the 
size and possess the style and finish required, they come nearer meet- 
ing the wants of the park and city riders and drivers than anything that 
has yet been imported from other countries. They possess the intelli- 
gence, spirit, endurance and speed, to satisfy the most critical buyers. 

From the fact that our attention has been attracted to that of speed 
rather than style and size, is the principal reason why we have so few 



28 



HORSE SENSE. 



high class carriage horses. Whenever we turn our attention to the 
carriage horse specifically, then we will attract the attention of every 
other country in this class of home production. 

THE DRAFT HORSE IS A WONDERFUL TYPE OF SEVERAL 

BREEDS. 




Cut No. 20. 
DRAFT STALLION (Clydesdale). 

Cut 20 shows a draft stallion of the type (not necessarily the breed) 
that is demanded in the markets. He has a strong organization, a good 
feeder, level headed, and shoulder that the collar can be made to fit well. 
His cairiage is quite high, but it is at the expense of his back, he is a 
little down there. He has a good "dinner basket," consequently good 
digestion with ample exercise. 

Any of the draft breeds (Percherons, French Draft, Clydes, 
Shires, Belgians, or English Draft), with the required size, sound and 
level headed, meet with a ready sale in the markets. 

THE BREEDING OF ANCESTRY SHOULD BE IN HARMONY 
WITH THE INDIVIDUAL. 

What we wish to particularly impress upon the mind of the reader 
is, that the selection of the type of animals for a special purpose is of 
the utmost importance and be sure that the breeding of the ancestry 
is in harmony with the selection of the particular type for many gen- 
erations back. Combine these two and then there is but little specula- 



HORSE^ SENSE. 



29 



-tion as to the results in the production and maintainance of that type, all 
other things being equal. 

CROSSING OF BREEDS OR FAMILIES SHOULD BE OF THE 
SAME GENERAL TYPE. 

While we would always advocate the adherance to the selected breed, 
if crosses are to be made, our advice would be to keep in the line of 
the type, i. e., if the selection is for draft purposes, cross Shires with 
Clydesdales; Percherons with French Draft; Suffolk Punch with Bel- 
gians, for the best results, but any of these will be far preferable with 
one another than to cross any of these with the Hambletonians, Morgans, 
Mambrino Chiefs— any of the road types or thoroughbreds, must be de- 
plored as tending to a loss of identity of both types for breeding pur- 
poses with the ofTspring. 




Cut No. 21. 
DRAFT BROOD MARE (Clydesdale). 

Cut 21 represents the draft mare suitable to mate this Clydesdale stal- 
lion. She is strong at every point, and if the breeding and character- 
istics of both their antecedents are of the same order, good resuLs for the 
market of draft stock would likely follow. 

While we have many most excellent Clydesdale horses in this coun- 
try from the best selected imported animals, there are others that are 
a disgrace to any country; lacking quality, conformation and constitu- 
tion. Don't let us pin our faith to any breed or type unless the re- 



30 



HORSE SfiKSE. 



quisites of good horses are to be found in the animals. We must de- 
vote the required time and attention to sum up the whole matter in horse 
production. The "happy go lucky"' style will never do to follow 
throughout. 

DRAFT STALLION (Percheron). 

This Percheron stallion, cut No. 22, is one of the best specimens of 
the breed that is to be found. He was imported by the late Leonard. 
Johnson, of Northfield. . Minn., and took the first prize at the state fair 
until he was barred, and at many other fairs where he was shown. While 
he weighed about a ton, he was as light a mover as the ordinary 1,200 
pounder. He i? almost perfect at every point and shows what may 
be done by careful selection in the breeding relation. 




Cut No. 22. 
GILBERT (Percheron). 

The devotees of the respective draft breeds make strong claims for 
their preference, but a c'.ose observation of many years reveals the fact 
that good and bad are to be found in both the Percheron and Clydesdale, 
and the "kickers" against either breed are generally prejudiced. Let 
us always be frank and recognize the good horse as an individual, of 
whatever breed he may be, and discard the seriously defective. 

DR/VFT BROOD MARE (Percheron). 

This Percheron brood mare, cut No. 23, like the stallion, is .about as 
near the right form, sty'e and finish as any one could ask. She is not 
only strong and vigorous, but she shows quality and her foal at foot. 



HORSE SENSE. 



31 



shows her ability as a breeder. Perfection in form and ability in nerve 
force are essentials that never should be overlooked in the brood mare. 




Cut No. 23. 
PERFECTION AND FOAL. 

The article on the selection of the brood mare, to be seen in Chapter 
XIII., deals with this subject at sufficient length, to give the student an 
insight to the subject for comparative observations: the only method 
of arriving at sound conclusions. Facts are what we want, one of 
which, when fully demonstrated, will overturn all the theories opposed 
thereto. 



CHAPTER IV. 

JUDGING HORSES. 




Cut No. 24. 
THE SIDE VIEW. 

Three positions are required to show the horse to the best advantage. 
From the side view, cut No. 24, we show his length, height, style and 
side appearance of the legs and feet. 

The front view, cut No. 25, shows the breadth of forehead, width of 
chest and extension forward of breast bone, width of forearms, breadth 
of knees, size and form of feet, whether they toe in or toe out, and 
whether the front legs are too close together or too far apart. 

The rear view is equally important to show the formation of croup, 
with width and strength of quarters and gaskins, the relative position 
of the hind legs, etc. 

The views herewith given are of a three-year-old imported Clydes- 
<iale stallion, weighing 1,700 pounds. 



HORSE SENSE. 



33 




Cut No. 25. 
THE FRONT AND REAR VIEW. 

SCORE CARD FOR JUDGING DRAFT HORSES ON A S0A1.E OP 100 

POINTS. 
GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS. 15 POINTS. 

Height— Hands high, measured or estimated, 16 hands the mini- 
mum 2 

"Weight— Weighed or estimated, 1,500 pounds the minimum 2 

Form— Symmetry, smooth, massive, legs well under body 3 

Quality— Firm flesh, dense bones, large tendons, hair and skin fine.. 3 

Temperament— Good disposition, courageous, active for size 3 

Color— Bay, black, sorrel, gray, roan and cream 2 ., 

— 15 

FEET AND LEGS-"RUNNING GEAR"-MEANS OP LOCOMOTION. 

45 POINTS. 

Feet— Large, uniform size, smooth, dense horn, concave sole, 

strong bars, large elastic frog, wide upright heels 4 

Pasterns— Sloping, strong and springy, never upright or straight.. 4 

Fetlocks— Wide and straight, never turning toes in our out 3 

Cannons— Short, clean and wide, with strong tendons 3 

Knees— Wide, well defined, strong, straight, and square to front .. 3 

Hocks— Wide, straight, strong and clear of "puffs" 4 

Forearms— Medium length, heavy muscled and well braced at 
chest 3 

Gaskins— (Lower thighs) wide and heavy muscled inside and out .. 3 

Arms— Short and rather straight, strongly, supported at shoulder .. 3 



34 HORSE SENSE. 

Thighs— Deep and muscular, well filled in angle 3 » 

Shoulders— Rather straight, heavy muscled into back 3 

Quarters— Wide and massive for lifting heavy loads 3 

Hips— Smooth, wide and level, neither higher than the other 3 

Croup— Wide and muscular, tail, strongly set and well carried 3 

BODY— (MIDDLE PIECE)— SOURCE OF HEAT AND 
POWER. 15 POINTS. 

Chest— Wide and deep, extending well forward, large girth 4 

Ribs— Well sprung, horizontally from spine and close together 3 

Back— Short, straight and heavily muscled 3 

Loin— Wide, deep and smooth, may be a little arched 3 

Underline— Long, but low at the flank 2 

— 15 

HEAD AND NECK— SEAT OF INTELLIGENCE, SPIRIT AND 
STYLE. 20 POINTS. 

Head— Lean and straight, jaws strong, wide and well spread 3 

Forehead— Wide between the eyes, but not "dished" 3 

Eyes— Large and full, clear and bright, but mild 4 

Ears— Medium size, pointed, well set and active 3 

Muzzle— Fine, nostrils good size, lips thin and compressed 3 

Neck— Broad and muscular, not too thick at shoulder, good crest.. 4 

— 20 

PERFORMANCE— ABILITY TO DO REQUIRED WORK WITH 
EASE. 5 POINTS. 

ACTION— Strong, vigorous walk, strong line movement at the trot 5 

— 5 

lOO 

NOTE.— After the student has made himself well acquainted with the 
several parts of the horse; he may then group each division and arrive at 
practically the saipe result very rapidly. A general knowledge of horses Is 
good, but it is very important that each part be studied in detail, notingf 
their strength as well as their relative value to other parts. 



SCORE CARD FOR JUDGING LIGHT HORSES ON A SCALE OF 100 

POINTS. 
GENERAL, CHARACTERISTICS. 15 POINTS. 

Height— Hands high; measured or estimated, 16 hands the limit.. 2 

Weight— Weighed or estimated, 1,200 pounds being the limit 2 

Form— Symmetry, smooth, stylish and legs well under the body... 3 
Quality— Firm flesh, dense bones, strong, well defined tendons, hair 

and skin fine and soft, yielding to the touch 3 

Temperament— Good disposition, courageous and active but not 

nervous 3 

Color— Bay, chestnut, black, brown, sorrel, roan, gray and cream.. 2 

— 15 
FEET AND LEGS— "RUNNING GEAR"— MEANS OF 
LOCOMOTION. 45 POINTS. 
Feet— Good size with upright walls, dense, smooth horn, concave 

sole, strong bars, large elastic frog, wide upright heels 4 

Pasterns— Sloping about 45 degrees, never upright or straight S 

Fetlocks— Ankles wide and straight, not turning the toes 3 

Cannons— Short, clean and wide, showing strong tendons and cords 2 

Knees— Wide, strong, clean, deep, straight and square to front 3 

Hocks— Wide, clean cut, moderate angle and free from "puffs".... 3 

Forearm— Long, well muscled, wide and well graced at chest 3 

Gaskins— (Lower thighs) wide and muscular inside and out 3 

Arms- Short, and sloping to the front, well muscled 3 

Thighs— Long, deep and muscular, well spread, leaving open angle 3 

Shoulders— Sloping, smooth, muscular, extending into back 3 



HORSE SENSE. 35 

Quarters^Wide, deep and heavily muscled, propelling power.. 3 

Hips-Smooth, wide and level, neither higher than the other!!!.'!! 2 

Croup— Long, wide and muscular, not steep or too flat !!*' ' 3 

Tail— Well supplied with hair, carried high and straight!!!!!!!!!!! 2 !!'!*[ 

— 45 

BODY-(MIDDLE PIECE)-SOURCE OF HEAT AND POWER 
15 POINTS. 

Chest— Deep and wide, extending well to the front, large girth 4 

Ribs-Long, well sprung, close together and close to hips !! '* 3 

Back— Short, straight and muscular, broad..... 3 

Loin— Wide, deep and smooth, may be a little arched!!!!!!!!!!!!!'" 3 

Underline— Long and well down at the flank !!!!!!!!!!!! 2 * 

— 15 

HEAD AND NECK-SEAT OF INTELLIGENCE SPIRIT AND 

STYLE. 20 POINTS. 
Head-Lean and straight (not Roman), jaws wide and well spread 3 

Forehead-Wide between the eyes and full-not dished 3 

Eyes-Large, full, clear and bright, and of dark or hazel color ""' 4 

Ears— Medium size, slim, flne pointed, carried erect and active 3 * 

Muzzle-Fine nostrils, large and thin, lips thin, even and firm. !** 3 

Neck-Muscular, high crest, fine at throat, wind pipe large 4 

**" — 20 

PERFORMANCE-ABILITY TO MOVE WITH STRENGTH 

EASE AND GRACE. 5 POINTS. ' 

Action-Strong, spirited walk, rapid, bold and frictiontess trot In 

line movement-no "paddling," "fanning" or "cuffing" In front 

or behind, nor "rolling" motion 5 

— 5 

100 

ti^^PTETl^^ ^^° 5*=*''** ?^^^s ^ven will Illustrate the critical examina- 
tions that horses undergo in the markets, as well as the nice dlstin^lnna 

^iH^^in^'"^!,"'^,?^ ^* •'^''■^ °'' *? the selection by breeders. By this method of 
judging, the horse is scanned point by point and all detail.? of thi.il,r^r.oi 

^rl^l^^'A•,^^/^^'i^K^fi}'^''^^^ a« t« strength and proportion and when thel^ 
are well understood then they can be rapidly grouped. 



CHAPTER V. 

EXAMINING HORSES FOR SOUNDNESS, BY GOOD AU- 
THORITY. 

SOUND HORSES. 

Absolute soundness rarely, if ever, exists. This being the case, we 
have to be contented with "practical soundness," which is the nearest 
approach to a perfectly sound horse. 

A sound horse is one that is free from all disease and has nothing 
about him that interferes or is likely to interfere with his usefulness, 
or depreciate his value. 

PRACTICALLY AND SERVICEABLY SOUND HORSES. 

As practical soundness is what we have to deal with in examining a 
horse, it must appear, first, that he is free from all disease that renders 
him unable to do his kind of work as a sound horse should; second, 
that certain conditions are not present which, in a longer or shorter 
time, may render him unfit to do the work of a sound horse; third, that 
nothing exists that tends to depreciate the value of the animal as com- 
pared to a sound horse. 

How is it best to proceed to examine the animal? We must bear 
in mind that a horse may be temporarily unsound or permanently un- 
sound. 

TEMPORARY UNSOUNDNESS CONSIDERED. 

Temporary unsoundness may include certain diseases, of which, after 
the animal has recovered, little or no trace remains; it also includes 
certain forms of lameness, as interfering, slight sprains, etc., which sub- 
side in a short while. In examination it is necessary to look for dis- 
ease, malformations, etc., and not for soundness. 

EXAMINATION AT REST AND IN MOTION. 

The horse to be examined should be seen, first, at rest, in and out 
of the stall; second, in motion, both when warmed up and when cooled 
off. 

WATCH THE HORSE CAREFULLY IN THE STALL FOR HAB- 
ITS. 

Ascertain how the animal feeds, while at rest in the stall — if he cribs, 
sucks wind or weaves. Notice his position of standing and watch him 



HORSE SENSE. 37 

while backing out of the stall, to see whether there is dragging of the 
feet, or other peculiar actions. 

On the floor, have nothing on but a halter. Take a general glance 
at the animal, noting the position of the extremities, color, size, and 
general outline. Then proceed to examine, part by part, commencing 
at the head, not forgetting to compare one side with the other as the . 
examination progresses. Nothing should be overlooked, and when the 
examination is completed, a definite conclusion is easily arrived at. 

EXAMINATION OF THE HORSE'S HEAD. 

In examining the head note the shape, the conditions of the bones 
of the face, the shape and condition of the eyes, the pupils, the ears, 
the mucous membrane of the nasal cavity (noting the color and looking 
for ulceration, growths, etc.); then examine the contents of the mouth, 
the age, shape, size and wearing surfaces of the teeth, and examine the 
bars for fractures; and then pass to the inter-maxillary space, feeling the 
pulse, the condition of the lower jav/, whether thickened or thinned; 
examine the glands in this region, then the poll, the throat, the condi- 
tion of the glands, not forgetting to cause the animal to cough and re- 
membering the kind of cough; pass along the neck, note the condition 
of the mane, the jugular grove, the trachea. 

EXAMINATION FOR FRACTURES, HERNIA, TUMORS, 
CURBS, SPAVINS, ETC. 

Look over the shoulders for marks of setons, wasting of muscles; 
the elbows for capped elbow; the knee for fractures, inflammation, etc.; 
the shin bones for splints; the tendons for their condition; the fetlock 
for fractures, swellings, scars of neurotomy, etc.; then look for side 
bones, ring bones, etc.; and finally the general outline of the feet, as 
regards size, shape, etc., and in particular the toe cracks, quarter cracks, 
results of laminitis, navicular disease, etc. 

EXAMINATION OF THE HORSE'S BODY. 

Next take the body under observation, remembering to examine both 
sides; first the withers, looking for marks of setons, swellings, etc.; then 
the condition of the ribs; test the heart and lungs; look at the abdomen 
for hernia; the flank, noting the respirations, whether quickened, slow, 
irregular and the like. 

EXAMINE FROM THE REAR FOR HIP FRACTURES, TAIL, 

STIFLES, ETC. 

Next stand behind the animal and examine the hips for fractures 
and swellings; then the hip joints (remembering to compare one side 
with the other); examine the tail to see if false; look under the tail for 
tumors; the flank for hernia and tumors; the stifles for swellings, dis- 
locations; the hocks for spavins, thoroughpins, curbs; then pass down- 
ward, noting the condition of the parts in the front limbs. 



38 HORSE SENSB. 

EXAMINATION FOR LINE MOVEMENT AT DIFFERENT 

GAITS. 

Have the animal trotted by the haher in as straight a line as possible 
in a slow, easy trot, allowing the horse about one foot of rope, so as 
not to interfere with the action. The animal should be trotted away 
from the examiner, at which time the movements of the hind legs may 
be noted, and when trotted towards him the movements of the front 
legs. 

EXAMINE WHEN THE HORSE IS WARM AND THEN WHEN 

COOL. 

When the animal is warmed up, lameness may not be shown; while 
if cooled ofT, it manifests itself, and vice versa. Next have the animal 
galloped to test his wind; see if the breathing is fast, irregular or noisy. 
D onot forget to examine the eyes. 



CHAPTER VI. 

EXAMINATION FOR LAMENESS. 

FIND CAUSE OF LAMENESS. 

Among the causes of lameness are weak conformation of bones, mus- 
cles, etc., tissues Being too frail to stand the strain; the fetlock may be 
too long, causing an extra strai«>cm the ten4ons; the -hock may be too 
angular, predisposing- the animal to curb, %r too straight up and down, 
predisposing to spavin; the hoof may show too high a heel, favoring 
contraction; or too low a heel, favoring corns, puncture, bruises, in- 
ferior shoeing — that is, fitting a shoe while too hot; having the shoe 
press upon the sole instead of -Ihe wajls; overtaxing muscles, tendons 
and ligaments by pulling a heavy load over rough and muddy roads; 
constant jerking and blows from the wagon pole and harness — all of 
these are causes of lameness. 

FIND WHERE AND HOW THE HORSE'S LAMENESS AF- 
FECTS HIM. 

How to discover a horse is lame or where he is lame is not so easy 
a matter as some may imagine. It is best to observe the animal first 
standing. If the horse points persistently — that is, places the foot in 
front of the normal position — the lameness is very apt to be below the 
fetlock. If the knee is effected it is often kept in a bent condition, while 
in shoulder and fetlock lameness the toe generally rests upon the ground. 
After examining the horse standing, allow him to go in a slow trot to 
and from the observer, holding the halter strap about a foot and a half 
from the head. 

WATCH THE HORSE'S HEAD AND EARS WHEN IN MOTION. 

Watch carefully the animal's head and ears while he is trotting to- 
ward you. He will attempt to protect the lame leg by throwing the 
most of his weight on the sound one, and if the lameness is in front will 
nod his head when the weight is thrown upon the sound one. 

WATCH HOW HE PROTECTS THE LAME LEG. 

When the animal trots away from you, if the lameness is behind, he 
will attempt to protect the lame leg by throwing his weight heavier on 
the sound one. 



40 HORSE SENSE. 

Having determined which leg is lame, the next thing is to locate the 
seat of the lameness. 

WHEN IN DOUBT, MOVE A SOUND HORSE WITH THE 
LAME ONE. 

If there is any doubt about whether the animal is using its legs prop- 
erly, take a sound animal and trot it up and down, and compare its- 
actions with those of the lame one, 

SHOULDER LAMENESS DETECTED BY LIMITED ACTION.. 

Shoulder lameness is evident by limited action of the entire shoulder. 
The animal seems anxious to keep stationary, and in bringing the leg" 
forward does so by an outward swinging motion. The horse that is 
knee-lame aims to keep the knee as stiff as possible, and in moving 
the leg forAvard bring the shoulder muscles into play. The leg is ad- 
vanced in a dragging manner, the to& is hardly leaving the ground and! 
the leg is bent as little as possible. 

JERKY ACTION IS MANIFEST IN FETLOCK LAMENESS. 

Fetlock lameness is manifested by a short, jerky step, the animal step- 
ping on the toe or often hopping on three legs. Lameness caused by- 
sore or enlarged tendons is similar to shoulder lameness, and is best 
examined with the animal at rest, as then the swelling, heat or pain is- 
generally detected along the course of these parts. 

GREAT CARE IN EXAMINING FOR FOOT LAMENESS. 

It is more difficult to diagnose foot lameness. The best thing is to> 
pick up the foot and tap it lightly with a hammer and notice the flinch- 
ing when the sore spot is touched. If the animal is nervous, it will 
require great care to distinguish between the actual pain and the nerv- 
ousness. 

HOPPING MOTION IS SEEN IN HIP LAMENESS. 

Hip limeness is known by a peculiar hopping gait. The animal,, 
while trotting, turns the hock of the lame leg in and stifle out. 

DRAGGING MOTION IN STIFLE LAMENESS. 

Stifle limeness shows itself by the difficulty the animal experiences- 
in elevating this part and bringing it forward, which is usually done in a. 
dragging fashion. The stifled animal either has the lame leg stretched; 
out behind or stands firmly on the sole. In the first case he cannot. 
back, and in the latter he cannot move the lame leg forward. 

There are so many phases of lameness and so much difference in. 
horses about withstanding injury and pain, or yielding to the slightest 
infliction, that it makes the subject of the examination for lameness a. 
most difficult task to meet all cases. There is so much ignorance, preju- 
dice and egotism connected with the examination of the horse for lame- 
ness that the following is given as an offset, and to somewhat relieve the- 
mind of the reader: 



HORSE SENSE. 41 

A CHAT OX LAMEXESS. 
By My Old Frien^l, Dr. Wm. Dickson. 

I could give you more than one technical definition of what lameness 
is, but "a rose" we are told, "by any other name wouJd smell as sweet," 
and as a lame horse to his owner means a horse he cannot use, that de- 
scription will fill the bill as well, or better than, any other. I have no 
intention of wandering into a disquisition on the "isms" and "ologies," 
and involving myself and you in a mist of unintelligable technicalities. 
I heard a lecture the other day on "Scientific Ventilation," and I have been 
tired of abstruce science ever since. The lecturer was excessively learned, 
and never used a simple term when a scientific one would do. His point 
was to show the hurtful effect of carbonic acid gas, which he stj^led 
C-O-2, on animal life — the animal experimented on being a cat. Warm- 
ing with his subject, the professor, a man of ver>- imposing appearance, 
by the way, fairly revelled in a mist of chemical technicalities — disap- 
peared to his boots, in a cloud of scientific formulas, and all the ordinary 
mind carried home with it was the fact that a certain amount of C-O-2 
would kill C-A-T! 

Now, I don t propose to fall into any such a trap as this. We, none 
of us, want lame horses, of coarse; but we are all of us liable to get them 
once in a while. 

When you've got a lame horse, the first thing to determine is which 
leg he is lame on; and this is not always as easy as it looks, except in 
cases of severe lameness. Ninety per cent of all lameness occurs in the 
feet. Itinerant horse c-anks, whose natural prey the confiding fanner 
seems to be, usually have some favorite and oitenlimes unlikely locality 
to which they ascrible all lameness. \Vhj it should be so, I don't know, 
but the most common is the shoulder. Now, this is just the last place 
I look for lameness, unless signs are particularly diognostic Actual 
shoulder lameness is easily told frora any other— the horse invariably 
advances his leg semi-circularlv, as a man does his wooden leg. 

The sense of touch which can detect any unnatural heat is the best 
means of locating trouble. 

FOOT FOUNDER, 

Or Laminitis and Navicular disease, are largely responsible for the 
abominable practice of cutting out the sole and paring the frog on (?) 
approved principles in the latter; as well as the barbarous practice cf 
nailing on a shoe two sizes two small, and then chopping off the foot to 
fit it. Does inflammation occur in the hind feet? 

It is most conmion in the front feet, but sometimes it occurs in zll 
four feet. If it is severe you can readily detect it by trsing to back op 
the animal, and you will find that he moves verj- reluctantly. 

Are aloes a good remedy for this disease? 

A violent purgative would be apt to leave you without any necessity 
for further treatment and also without a horse. 



42 HORSE SENSE. 

RING BONES AND SIDE BONES. 

Ring bones are the result of disease of the bony structure and side 
bones of the fibro-elastic cartlages, whose ofhce it is to prevent undue 
expansion of the feet at the heels. 

Can ring bone be cured? Sometimes they are cured. That is to 
say, the lameness disappears. The best place, however to have ring- 
bones or spavins is on another man's horse. "Cranks" will modestly 
admit their inability to cure either one or the other, but they can "kill" 
them, every time. This is as a rule, absolute nonsense. Lameness from 
spavin is often got over in young horses, but rarely in old ones. Rest 
is the main factor in the cure. Firing and blister will expedite the cure. 
Anchylosis or growing of the joint solid is what happens. Some of the 
gliding motion of the lower portion of the hock is lost, but the horse is 
practically as good as ever. I use one ounce of biniodide of mercury to 
eight of lard as a blister. There are a heap of things that a farmer can 
<io for himself, but when an animal is really ill, always get the best 
qualified man available to treat it; and when you get his advice and pay 
for it, follow it; don't keep a dog and do the barking yourself. 

SPLINT. 

What do you say about a splint that does not lame a horse? Take 
my advice and leave it alone. Never hold a funeral until the corpse is 
read. 

What liniment is good for sprains? A very simple lotion for 
sprains and also for flesh wounds, is one ounce of sugar of lead and six 
drams of sulphate of zinc, in a quart of water. 

WOLF-TEETH. 

Do wolf-teeth cause blindness? No, sir; they do not. 

BOTS. 

Bots rarely harm the horse, his stomach is their natural winter resi- 
dence. 

CURB. 

A curb is not a bone disease at all. It is a sprain of a ligament, 
usually it lames only young horses. Rest and a high heeled shoe with a 
cooling lotion in the inflamatory stage. Hand rubbing or a blister will 
remove the thickening of the parts, after inflammation subsides. 



CHAPTER VII. 

SELECTING THE STALLION. 
As a public teacher in farmers' institutes for the past thirteen years, I 
have been very careful to treat this subject in so plain and careful a 
manner that it would not be misleading. My advice always is, to first 
decide upon the type or class of horses to be produced, and then start 
out with the full determination of finding the ideal individual as near as 
possible in every particular, remembering always that the sire is con- 
sidered one-half of the herd. 

SIZE AND FORM FOR THE PURPOSES REQUIRED. 
He should have the desired size, form, style and carriage to meet the 
requirements expected, 

PROPER DEVELOPMENT OF FIRST CONSIDERATION. 
He should have the very best of feet and legs, and above all, they 
should be hung to the body properly for easy and frictionless move- 
ment (see the points in examination of the feet and legs illustrated in 
Chapter II.) He should be large around the girth (vital powers) with a 
good middle-piece (digestive capacity), broad, strong loin, muscular 
quarters, broad gaskins and broad, clean hocks. His back should be 
short in comparison with length of the underline. His shoulders mus- 
cular and well defined,, fore-arms well muscled and the front legs not too 
wide apart nor too close together. His neck should be of good length 
and width, but not too thick. His head clean and set on the neck at a 
graceful angle, with the jaw-bones well spread, giving free room for the 
wind-pipe. The eyes should be full and clear, with a kind expression. 
The ears fair length, slim, erect and active. The nostrils large, thin and 
dilating. The lips thin, shapely and compressed. His action should be 
easy, graceful and without apparent effort and a line mover. 

INDIVIDUALITY OF THE TYPE MUST BE CONSIDERED. 
All these are important as an individual, but for a sire,* the stallion's 
breeding must be as closely studied as his individuality, and for several 
generations back, if we expect him to be successful in producing what 
we desire. The law of '-Ativism," "Reversion," "Breeding Back," etc., 
is so well established that we cannot afford to ignore it, and no matter 
how fine the individual may be, if his ancestors did not possess these de- 
sirable characteristics, disappointments must naturally be looked for, as 
they are about as sure to follow as the day succeeds the night. 



44 HORSE SENSE. 

SHOULD BE BRED STRONGLY IN THE TYPE HE REPRE- 
SENTS ON BOTH SIDES. 

The sire should be so strongly bred in a definite line of performance 
that he will be able to control the general external characteristics and. 
the dam sufficiently well bred to give the nerve-force, endurance, vigor 
and constitution. In other words, we must adhere to a line of uni- 
formity in both sire and dam' for the purpose of improvement in the 
breeding relation. 

CROSS WITH THE JACK AND THE MARE. 

As an illustration in out-crossing to show the natural law of the sire 
controlling the external characteristics and the dam the internal, we 
would call the reader's attention to that of the jack and the mare, and in 
this cross we would ask, who ever saw a mule that closely resembled its 
dam? Now, use rhe thoroughbred stallion with the jenny, and we have 
a perfect little horse in external characteristics in every particular, as 
much so as that of the jack and the mule, and the produce in either case 
are not generally breeders, but hybrids. In the case of the thoroughbred 
mare and the jack, we have the nerve force of the thoroughbred in the 
mule, which makes Kentucky and Missouri the famous mule producing: 
districts. 

CROSS WITH THE THOROUGHBRED HORSE AND JENNY. 

In the case of the thoroughbred sire and the jenny, we get a very 
small animal and, like its dam, scarcely has ambition enough to go ia 
out of the storm, and consequently, comparatively worthless. This same 
law applies to the crossing of all animals and whenever the sire is the 
result of a cross of any kind, he is almost certain to be a failure. He 
must be bred in a definite line for generation after generation, to be able 
to correct the external defects of the mares he is bred to. Please remem- 
ber that the selection of the sire is of the most vital importance, when 
it is considered in its true light and must not be treated, as is too often 
the case, in the line of an experiment. We cannot afiford to be con- 
tinually and always in the experimental stage with our horse breeding. 
We must establish principles and rules of practice that will serve as a 
guiding star, to the unborn horse breeders of the country. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

WINTERING SERVICE STALLIONS. 
The wintering of service stallions is a matter of more importance than 
it is usually considered to be. The successful wintering of stallions is the 
preparatory stage for the reproduction of the species the next season, 
with a prospect of improvement of the race, and improvement is in- 
sured by storing up and maintaining all the vigor and endurance of our 
stallions that the term implies. The successful race-horse is made by 
development of muscle, nerve-force, lung power, speed, game and endur- 
ance, which requires time, work, patience and perseverance by his trainer. 
The successful livery horse requires as careful preparation to make him 
profitable to his owner, and the draft horse has to have a like preparation 
to withstand the strains in pulling great loads, while the stallion, to be 
successful in the stud for the spring season, must be properly wintered, 
if we would approach the improvement of the equine race that is aimed at. 
CONDITION FOR WINTERING. 
The stallion should go into winter quarters with a moderate coat of 
fle^, not fat, nor thin. His shoes, if any, should be removed and his 
hoofs trimmed down just even with the natural untrimmed sole and the 
edges rounded nicely to prevent breaking. 

THE FEET OF THE STALLION REQUIRE GREAT CARE. 
The stallion's feet should be cleaned out every day with a foot-hook 
to prevent foul matter from collecting about the frog of the feet and 
producing "thrush," from which the feet becom.e diseased, which some- 
times renders him worthless. The stallion should have a roomy box-stall 
warm and well ventilated, and if he cannot be driven daily, he should 
have a large exercising lot in connection, in which he can, at will, run in 
the open air. Exercise is just as necessary as food and water for the 
maintainance of activity of muscles, digestion and nerve force. And the 
stallion that has plenty of exercise, with kind treatment, will not become 
vicious or likely to contract bad habits; but the stallion ^confined in a 
dark stable is very likely to contract bad habits and become troublesome 
in some way and useless as an important sire. 

EXERCISING LOT FOR THE STALLION WHEN NOT AT 

WORK. 
The exercising lot should be long and rather narrow, so that the 
stallion will not be likely to run in a circle, slip and fall and injure him- 



46 



HORSE SENSE. 



self. With the long lot he will have a chance to extend himself, and 
when near the end of the lot, will stop with his feet all under him, which 
is not so liable to injure him as if he were running in a circle. 

STALLION YARD FENCE OPEN SO HE CAN SEE HIS SUR- 
ROUNDINGS. 

The writer has used this character of a stallion yard and fence for 
years, and prefers it to any other, for the reason that it gives the stallion 
an opportunity to see all th^t is going on around him and prevents him 
from getting lonesome and nervous from the noises round about him 
for which he cannot see the cause. The high, tight fence is a veritable 
prison to the ambitious stallion and frequently keeps him fretting and 
worrying to the extent of losing in vigor, instead of maintaining what 
he already has. This exercising lot should be separate and apart from 
all other horses, and the wide door of the stable should open out into 
this lot for both the convenience of the keeper and the benefit of the 
stallion. 




Cut No. 26. 
STALLION BARN AND EXERCISING LOT. 

The reader will please note that in Cut No. 26 the fence is tight one- 
half its height (4 or 5 feet) and slat fencing above, so that the stallion 
can see all that is going on outside. 

HARNESS OR SADDLE WORK FAR PREFERABLE TO THE 
EXERCISING LOT. 

While the exercising lot as here described is far better than anything- 
we have ever used for voluntary exercise, it must be remembered that 
there is nothing so good for the stallion and his offspring, as every-day 
work in the harness or under the saddle. When the day comes that 
the stallion, to get patronage, must show harness marks and other indi- 
cations that he is strong and hardy by work, then we will be on the high, 
road to success in horse-breeding. 



HORSE SENSE. 47 

FOOD THROUGH THE WINTER. 

The food of the stallion through the winter should be in keeping with 
the amount of exercise taken; some stallions will, of their own accord, 
take ten times the work that others will, and if he is driven, the feed 
must correspond to his work. Don't get him fat, nor let him run down 
in flesh. Oats and bran, with some corn, if he suffers with the cold, will 
be found excellent; corn is a good heater. 

Roots may also be given to advantage in small quantities, twice or 
three times per week, but good, nourishing foods, given often, and at 
regular intervals, in small quantities at a time, will be found to be the 
best for the great drain on the system during service season, of which 
the wintering of the stallion is the preparatory stage. 

KEEP THE STALLION STRONG AND VIGOROUS. 

If the stallion is allowed to run down in flesh and lead a life of abso- 
lute idleness through the winter and then the preparation for the sea- 
son's work, when it is almost upon us, is attempted, we will make a 
great mistake. There is no tax upon the animal economy that calls into 
play all the energies and activity of the whole system like that of each 
service during the whole season, and unless the stallion is well prepared 
for this work, how can we reasonably expect him to be sure in service 
or improve the character of his offspring? We might as well expect to 
start in a racing campaign with a few days or weeks preparation, or to 
catch up the green, unbroken draft colt, put him into hard work at once 
and expect him to do as well as the old seasoned, well broken stand-by. 
It is frequently observed that the stallions that are in the harness every 
day at work, are the surest foal getters, and further, that the young 
foals are stronger and more vigorous than those of stallions that have 
had a life of what is termed good care and feed (shut in a stall with 
all they will eat). This, alone, should be a lesson to the observing and 
they should make exercise a very important matter with the service 
stallion in winter as well as summer. We want to impress the importance 
of exercise as one of the most essential requisites in the wintering of the 
stallion. To exercise we must add the feed required to keep up his 
vigor and then we will have a stallion in the spring, that can go on the 
stand and do good service to his patrons, make a reputation, and bring 
"ducats" to his owner. The work of the stallion should not be of the 
extremely exhausting character, but enough to encourage a good appetite 
and make strong muscles, send vitalizing blood through his arteries 
with renewed energy and render his disposition happy and cheerful. 

WE PAY DEARLY FOR NEGLECT OF THE STALLION IN 

WINTER. 

The horse being an animal of utility, and his value being largely esti- 
mated by his activity and strength, how important it is that we preserve 
the strength and action of our service stallions during their period of 
vacation for renewed service in the coming season. This is a matter we 
cannot ignore with impunity, without paying dearly for our negligence. 



48 HORSE SENSE. 

in the confinement of our stallions during the winter season. If we are 
keeping stallions, let us keep them in such condition that they will be a 
benefit, an improvement to the future living horses, or let us castrate 
them and put them to work to earn the food they eat, and thereby reduce 
the number of weakling?, bad dispositions and natural born cripples now 
sired every season, largely from the effects of improper wintering and 
want of preparing the stallions for the important service work they are 
expected to perform. 

ROUGH FEED FOR THE STALLION. 

The rough feed of the stallion during winter, may be well cured hay 
or corn fodder, but it should not be given in large quantities at a time. 
It is very bad practice to keep a manger full of hay before the stallion all 
the time, as it tempts him to keep his stomach distended with innu- 
tritions food, which is too apt to make him dull and inactive; to say noth- 
ing of the derangement of both stomach and bowels that is frequently en- 
gendered by such a course. Small quantities, twice a day, are enough to 
act as a vehicle for the more concentrated foods given, and will, thereby, 
aid digestion, whereas too much rough feed will be a hindrance to activity 
and muscular growth — the essential conditions aimed at. 

WATERING THE STALLION OF GREAT IMPORTANCE. 

Watering the stallion, for health and vigor, is a matter of more im- 
portance than is usually considered. The stomach of the horse is com- 
paratively small (holding about three and one-half gallons) and a pailful 
or more of cold water will arrest the action of digestion, instead of 
aiding it; therefore, it is far better practice to water the stallion before 
feeding and give time enough for the animal heat of the body to warm 
the water, when it will pass out of the stomach into the bowels before 
giving him his ration of ,grain. If the stable is warm, and the weather 
not very cold, fifteen to twenty minutes is usually sufficient for a vigor- 
ous horse to warm the quantity of water he should drink at one time. 
Water the stallion often, and give small quantities at a time. Because 
others have done differently and their stallions did not die, or contract 
serious difficulties, is no argument that the above course is not an im- 
provement on the hap-hazard way of feeding and watering stock. The 
amount of food saved, the improvement in health and vigor, together 
with the success in the stud, encourages us to try to impress the import- 
ance of this matter of watering the stallion before feeding. 

SALT FOR THE STALLION AT ALL TIMES. 

Keep a piece of rock salt in some convenient place where the stallion 
can have access to it as often as he maj-^ like, or give small quantities, 
twice a week regularly, for the health of the prospective sire. 

PLENTY OF EXERCISE AND CLEANLINESS. 

While the stallion shield (to prevent self-abuse) may, in some cases, 
be necessary, we are strongly inclined to the opinion that plenty of exer- 
cise is the most satisfactory practice to avoid their ever contracting the 



HORSE SENSE. 49 

habit; but when once accfuired, it may be necessary to use the shield; 
still, we are confident that exercise will do more to regulate this pernici- 
ous habit than all other remedies combined. We have a number of 
stallions, and also have two or three shields, but we rarely ever use eithc- 
of them, for the reason that whenever we have given the stallions plenty 
of exercise, we have seen no need for the use of a shield. 

Keep the stallion stall scrupulously clean, for a stable, and you will 
have done very much towards the health and comfort of the stallion. His 
bedding should be clean and there should be plenty of it, that he may 
lie down and enjoy a good night's rest, without his joints coming in con- 
tact with the hard floor or damp ground. 

FIRM BUT KIND MANAGEMENT. 

Stallions should be treated firmly, but kindly, and should never be 
teased or fought. To go into a fight with a stallion, is a very danger- 
ous and grave undertaking, and, although you come out victorious at the 
time, the chances are that it is only a question of a little time when he 
will get the better of you, and may endanger your life; whereas, if you 
are on good terms with him, he will not have the inclination to take 
any advantage of you. We must not for a moment conclude that the 
:Stallion has not his likes and dislikes, which we are bound to respect, and 
if we do not, we are apt, sooMer or later, to learn to our sorrow, that we 
.are mistaken. The stallion appreciates good treatment as much as any 
other animal; and it is prudent, at least, for every groom, owner, or 
■driver to learn this lesson early in the life of the young stallion, for the 
benefit of both; 

We could give many more details in the handling and care of the 
stallion, but if what we have here indicated is carefully carried out with 
the best stallions of the land, we will see a great improvement in the 
future generations of our horses. 

WE MUST COMPLY WITH THE LAWS OF PRO-CREATION. 

Successful procreation is governed by immutable laws, and if we 
would reap the full benefit, we must certainly comply wil.h them, and if 
•disregarded we are the losers in consequence of the violations. It is not 
certain, but what the mental and physical condition of the stallion and 
mare at the time of service, may not control that of the offspring in like 
character. Then with the mental and physical conditions right at the 
"breeding period, we can more certainly look forward with favorable 
pro.spects in the foal to be, than if we are fighting the stallion and mare, 
larousing all the latent antipothies to man (comparatively dormant 
"through domestication) and say we are surprised that the produce is a 
Tcritable devil in disposition. 



CHAPTER IX. 

CARE OF THE STALLION IN SEASON. 

"The breeding stallion, during the service season, requires special at- 
tention for the best results to those patronizing him. It must be taken 
for granted that he has been well wintered; been worked or had plenty 
of exercise every day; that he is strong and muscular at the beginning 
of the season; but because he is waiting for patronage, don't conclude 
he must not be exercised, but kept in the stable and fed all kinds of 
nostrums to stimulate the sexual function, which would be all wrong 
and must not be toleirated under any circumstance. While it is not best 
to exercise the stallion to the point of actual fatigue, it is of the greatest 
importance that he has his daily work, to keep him in the height of con- 
dition. Exercise and good nourishing food is all that is necessary for the 
stallion that has been properly wintered. 

REGULATING THE SERVICES OF THE STALLION. 

The regulation of the services of the stallion is a feature that is very 
hard for everyone to understand. Some stallions that are strong and 
recuperative force active, can do twice the business to advantage that 
others are capable of. But the most important feature of the stallion's 
work for the season is in the beginning. Too many services the first 
week may ruin him for the whole season. One, two or three services for 
the first and four or five the next week, is the safest and surest kind of 
a beginning, and afterwards one a day may be indulged in, but never 
more than two can be counted on as profitable; and let this be as seldom 
as possible. The stallion that has led a life of idleness through the 
winter cannot do justice to more than about two a week through the 
season. But the stallion that has worked every day and been well fed, 
can do far more and better business, to both his owner and patrons. 

WATER, FEED AND HAY FOR THE STALLION. 

Water the stallion before feeding, or whenever he would relish a 
moderate drink, except it be within two hours after feeditig grain. Feed 
oats, corn, bran and a little oil-meal, either in mixture or separately and 
regularly, four or even five times per day, and quantity in proportion to 
the weight of the stallion and his digestion. Except the stallion is sick, 
let the condition powders, drugs, nostrums and medicines alone. Salt 
and ashes kept (or salt alone) where the stallion has access to it, is 
sufficient, but important. If the stallion is sick, do as you would if you 



HORSE SENSE. 51 

were sick, get the best medical adviser obtainable and carry out his 
instructions. 

The hay for the stallion should be of the best and cleanest, but should 
not be fed in large quantities, as the services of the stallion are of a 
character that requires activity, energy and pressure on the abdominal 
visera. Twelve to sixteen pounds of hay in twenty-four hours is suffi- 
cient for the largest stallion, and much less for smaller ones. Too much 
hay has a tendency to make the stallion dull, short-winded and uncom- 
fortable in his services. 

HANDLING THE STALLION FOR SERVICE. 

This is a much more important matter than most people will prob- 
ably concede, but it is nevertheless true, that the quieter and least an- 
noyingly the stallion can be handled, the better for the future offspring. 
No stallioneer should, under any circumstances, have a fight with his 
charge. Neither should he use a whip in handling the stallion for serv^ 
ice. It tends to make the horse nervous, timid or more often vicious; 
all of which must have its influence with the progeny. The stallion or 
safety bridle, represented elsewhere, is all that is necessary in handling 
any stallion, both for the control of the horse and preventing rough 
teasing of the mare. He can be prevented from biting his keeper or the 
mare without any trouble. Never give the stallion pain when in close 
contact with him, but if he is headstrong, let him have his head and 
when at the length of the stallion bridle (twenty feet rope) "pinch" him 
promptly and he will have business with his keeper in order to get relief, 
which should never be neglected. Always give the horse comfort when 
he is near by and when he acts on his own volition, is the time to get 
him to understand that his groom is his best friend. 

The stallion should not be allowed to tease the mare long or roughly, 
but as soon as it is determined that she is ready is the time that the 
stallion should be allowed to serve her. 

Most stallioners have some specific methods of their own about how 
the stallion should cover the mare, but all of this depends largely upon 
how the horse has been educated to service. Some allow the stallion 
to come up from immediately behind. Well this will do if hobbles are 
always used on the mares, but otherwise this is a dangerous procedure- 
and the stallion may be seriously injured. The approach of the stallion 
from the side or even as far forward as the shoulder of the mare, is the 
safer method if the stallion is properly educated. 

The attendant of the mare should be instructed to be ready to elevate 
the mare's head just as the stallion goes to mount, and then there is 
much less danger of her kicking him, as she cannot get both ends up 
very well at the same time. In dismounting, the heads of both stallion 
and mare should be pulled together, which will throw their hind quarters 
away from each other and avoid injury from kicking. Never try to 
force a service where the mare is decidedly opposed to the embrace of the 
stallion, as the results will not be satisfactory generally. And a service 
when the mare is not in condition is a service thrown away. 



52 HORSE SENSE, 

ONE SERVICE AS GOOD AS ANY NUMBER. 

Many mare owners have a "notion" — it is nothing more — that two 
or three services are better than one. But when it is positively known 
that there is sufficient vitalizing power in one service for seven or eight 
mares (as that many mares have been artificially impregnated from the 
one service) is certainly sufficient to satisfy the most incredulous, that 
one service is all that is necessary if conditions are all right. 

ARTIFICIAL IMPREGNATION BY INJECTION. 

It is far better where a stallion has a heavy run of business, to arti- 
ficially impregnate all those over and above the number that would over- 
tax the stallion. Keep the stallion vigorous and then a large number 
of his patrons may be artificially impregnated. It has been success- 
fully demonstrated that the seed or vital fluid can be extracted from 
the mare after service, kept as long as five hours, divided among as 
many as seven mares, injected into their wombs and the whole eight 
get in foal. That is the first served by the stallion and the other seven 
by artificial impregnation. This last method is the only outkt for get- 
ting the very best stock and not have the sires overtaxed, minimize the 
service fees and have more good colts. 



CHAPTER X. 

GOVERNMENT OWNERSHIP OF STALLIONS. 
The question of government ownership of all service stallions deserves 
more than passing notice. What France has done, and is still doing m 
that line, is well worth pondering over. By a decree of Dec. 9, i860, 
subsidies or prizes of from 100 to 600 francs each (according to the breed- 
ing and quality) were authorized to be given to approved mares with 
coTts by government stallions. Besides this, large sums are given in 
prizes at the annual exhibitions. May 5, 1870, the department of agri- 
culture appointed a director general, eight inspectors, twenty-six sub- 
directors, ten superintendents and twenty-six veterinanes. The work 
of this department was so satisfactory that, in 1874, the number of stal- 
lions owned by the government throughout France was ordered in- 
creased 200 per year until they should number 2,500, and the appropria- 
tions necessary for prizes awarded to breeding animals should reach 
1,500,000 francs per annum. 

WHAT THE FRENCH GOVERNMENT IS DOING FOR HORSE- 
BREEDING. 

In this organization by the French government there has been one 
central object constantly kept in view; that is, the encouragement of the 
people, by every means possible, to adopt a higher standard of breeding. 
In order that this purpose might be accomplished, the choicest stallions 
of the different breeds and types were introduced into each locality, and 
offered for use to the mare owners at a nominal fee for service. To 
further prevent the use of inferior animals, a decree was issued in 1885 
excluding from public service all stallions not authorized by the govern- 
ment. JO 

In 1887 the government owned 2,460 stallions, and exported 34>Si8 
horses from France during the same year, as shown by statistics, which 
demonstrates the appreciation other countries have for French horses. 
WHAT THIS COUNTRY MIGHT DO IF UNDERTAKEN. 

This country could accomplish far more under a similar system, from 
our vast extent of territory and abundance of cheap feed. But as long 
as every individual is determined to breed just what his peculiar whims 
may suggest, just so long will we fail to have a uniformity of our horses 
in the different types. 

BREEDERS' ASSOCIATIONS. 

If the various breeders' associations of the country can accomplish 
the work of breeding from only the sound stallions and in uniform lines, 
we may yet see great results, but it looks as though nothing short of 
government control will Viring about the desired results. 



CHAPTER XL 

SELECTION AND CARE OF BROOD-MARES. 

Selection of Brood-Mares. 

The breeder's selection of his brood-mares, must depend on the uses 
he intends the produce for. Without a definite object in view from the 
beginning, more or less failures will naturally follow; and to be more 
fully understood, \ve will describe what we verily believe to be the points 
of greatest merit in the selection of the brood-mares for any type of 

breeding. 

SIZE. 

The size of the brood-mares will depend on the class of animals de- 
sired in the offspring. If draft stock is the object, then the brood-mares 
must of necessity be large, for the desired results. If it is to be coachers; 
then she must be the required size, style and lofty action desired by the 
fanciers of that type. If for the road, then she must not be large, or her 
progeny will be too apt to have so much weight that they will give out 
in the legs or feet. 

STYLE. 

The style of brood-mare, should always correspond with the best 
of the type to which she belongs. Style in the carriage of the head and 
tail, as well as that of the action of our road and carriage horses, is of 
:the utmost importance to the breeder. Size, style, ranginess and finish 
an all of our pleasure horses are the requisites that bring the profits to 
the producer, and unless the brood-mare possesses these, it will be a 
difficult matter for the offspring to manifest it. 

QUALITY. 

The general character of all brood-mares should be much the same in 
many respects, viz: fine of the class to which they belong; i. e., fine 
dense material in the feet; fine dense bones with strong clean joints; fine, 
soft hair; fine grained, pliant skin; bright, expressive eyes; fine heads; 
fine, well set upright ears and fine hair in the mane and tail. 

NERVE FORCE OF MOTIVE POWER. 

This force is equally applicable to all classes of brood-mares in pro- 
portion to the anticipated work of their descendants. 

Even the slow work of the draft horse, should manifest itself in a 
vigorous walk of the brood-mare; but too much of it makes a very un- 
^ pleasant draft horse, and a want of it makes a drone that nobody wants 
for any purpose, if he understands himself. 



HORSE SENSE. 55 

The more active duties to be performed, the more nerve power is 
needed. The coacher wants sufficient nerve force to enable him to always 
hold his head up, and to step off, as though he was fully alive to all the 
surroundings, but not of the character that would 'ndicate that there 
was danger of running away at any instant and endangering life and 
limb. The genuine roadster is so full of it that the end of the journey is 
reached at any distance without apparent fatigue, and the reliable trotter 
cannot have too much of it, if the instinct to trot is strong" tnough to 
keep at the required gait. 

So much is dependent on the education of our horses that we fre- 
quently have difficulty in determining whether the manifested vitality is 
natural, or acquired from the manner in which the animal is, or has been 
handled. If it is natural; it will be lasting as a never failing spring of 
water; but if from bad handling, it will die out, or be manifest in early 
decay. Too much stress cannot be laid on the character of the nerve 
force, or motive power. This power may be known by the prominence 
and brightness of the eye, quick movements of the ears, prompt and elas- 
tic movements in gait and action generally, as well as fully alive and 
ready to all surroundings. 

The careful breeders of today are probably paying more attention to 
the nerve force of their breeding stock than to any other qualification; 
as so much is dependent on this, for begetting, maturing, developing and 
maintaining a useful career that it must not be lost sight of. 

CONFORMATION. 

The brood-mare should have a good deep, capacious body, with plenty 
of lung room; broad across the loin and deep from loin to flank; strong, 
short back and long under the belly; a broad, roomy pelvis (rump) to in- 
sure easy delivery; a rather slim neck and not too close ribbed (to insure 
her to be a good milker); a clean cut head, with upright, active ears; 
prominent, but mild eyes; large, thin, expansiye nostrils, and thin, com- 
pressed lips; her bones should be of good size for the general makeup 
of the animal, with smooth, clean cut joints. 

Her muscular system should be well developed in every particular; 
especially the loin, shoulders, quarters, forearms and gaskins. The ten- 
dons generally must be of good size, well defined and of the "whip cord" 
order; remembering always that these will vary with the size and quality 
of the mare, as well as the type or breed to which she belongs. 

CHARACTER OF THE BROOD-MARE. 

The character of a brood-mare, both for constitution, soundness, dis- 
position, habits and regular breeder, together with motherly inclinations 
and a good milker, are essential features that no one versed in the busi- 
ness will overlook. 

PEDIGREE. 

The pedigree of the brood-mare is of far more importance, than 
three-fourths of our breeders even imagine. Her blood lines should be 
carefully investigated, to ascertain if there has been no impure or mongrel 



56 HORSE SENSE. 

blood introduced into the breeding of her antecedents, that will be a 
damage in the results to be attained; "as the sins of the fathers shall be 
visited to the third and fourth generations." 

PARALLEL BLOOD LINES. 

By parallel blood lines we have reference to those bred in the same- 
general family or of the same type of animals. In other words, adhere 
as closely to the desirable family characteristics, as is possible for the 
best results. Cross-breeding must be condemned as impracticable in this 
age of improvement. We must make as few mistakes as the development 
of the science of breeding will permit. With all the care we can be- 
stow, there will be more or less culling to be done from time to time, to 
keep up the standard of excellence that should be desired. 

IN-BREEDING. 

While we do not strongly advocate in-breeding, we are strongly op- 
posed to cross-breeding. No true type of animals can be maintained by 
cross-breeding; on the other hand, all types of animals have been made 
and maintained, by strictly adhering to the best selections of the same 
family, as is borne out in the investigations of the improvements of our 
best, breeders. If we want draft horses we must adhere to the principle 
of breeding only typical draft mares to our best draft stallions, road 
mares to our best trotting stallions; coachers to the type of stallions that 
will bring us coachers, etc., etc., etc. 

HAP-HAZARD BREEDING. 

The hap-hazard breeding that has been going on for many years^ 
makes it imperative, that every breeder, making a choice of brood-mares, 
should use the utmost care in his selections for any class, to prevent 
getting just what he may be trying to avoid in the offspring he is aiming 
to produce. Blood and good quality will tell at every breeding, and an 
undesirable infusion, is possible to give you an amount of trouble, that 
many years of painstaking will not enable you to eradicate. In breed- 
ing stock, individual excellence in connection with the best inherited 
characters, is, of course, desirable in all cases; but, when it is impossible 
to secure this combination of qualities, the breeder should not lose sight 
of the fact that the greatest perfection in the individual, will not com- 
pensate for ancestral defects that have been frequently repeated, as the 
latter will in all probability have a predominant influence upon the off- 
spring. 

THE BROOD MARE IN RELATION TO THE STALLION TO 

BE USED. 

After the selection of the brood-mare for the purpose designed, then 
an equally important choice is the selection of the stallion to which she 
is to be bred. Remember that absolutely perfect mares or stallions in 
every particular is the next thing to an impossibility; hence to improve' 
in the offspring, is to select a stallion that is certainly strong in any par- 
ticular in which the mare may be wanting. If both have weaknesses of 



HORSE SENSE. 57 

the same character and are bred together, then these weaknesses are too 
apt to be intensified in the progeny and general degeneracy as a natural 

result will follow. • , ^ ^u 

Another essential feature that should never be forgotten, is that the 
weakest point in the brood-mare or stallion is the measure of his or her 
power, the same as the "weakest link in the chain is the estimate of the 
strength of the chain." In other words the back cannot do the work of 
the legs or vice versa. Consequently the importance of carefully exam- 
ining both sire and dam for weaknesses before mating. The strong points 
win take care of themselves as will the dollars, if we take care of the 
pennies If the stallion and mare are the counterpart of each other in 
any natural defects, then you will be acting judiciously to look farther 
before breeding. , PREPOTENCY. 

We wish to be understood by prepotency in the brood-mare, that she 
possesses the power through her ancestral inheritance, to transmit to her 
progeny the strong characteristics of her family; and by her being bred to 
a sire in the same line of breeding, her produce will be of great value m 
the perpetuation of the qualities of the type; whereas if she is not pre- 
potent, then you have to rely on the power of the sire altogether. 
FECUNDITY OF THE BROOD-MARE. 
By fecundity we understand that the brood-mare is fruitful, or in 
other words, she is a regular breeder. And to determine before trial 
what she is likely to be as a regular producer, it is very essential to in- 
quire into the history of her family. If her dam was a regular breeder 
and her mother before her, as well as their sires sure foal getters, and if 
they were, then you are quite safe that she will be profitable. 
INHERITED PRE-DISPOSITION. 
Inherited pre-disposition to disease or other defects in the brood-mare 
may not show in herself; if there has been any in her ancestors it is al- 
most certain to be manifest in some of her offspring, without the great- 
est care is manifest in the selection of the sire to which she is bred. 

We must stop with points of selection for fear we shall discourage 
the young breeder with details; but we must unhesitatingly say that the 
more experience, observation and study we have, the more we see that 
it is by no means guess-work. Breeding has become, to a great degree, 
a science, and the more we conform to the laws of the science, the 
greater progress we are likely to make. While we feel that we are by 
no means through with the matters of importance in selection, we must 
proceed with the care of the brood-mare. 

CARE OF THE BROOD-MARE. 
The care of the brood-mare for the best results, can be summed up in 
this: that the highest state of vigor and activity through her whole or- 
ganization will be mainly what will be required. 

But the question will naturally be asked, how can this condition be 
best acquired? Our answer is: feed regularly good nutritious food of not 



58 HORSE SENSE. 

a highly carbonaceous character, but sufficient to keep the mare in fair 
condition, yet by no means fat. Fat is at all times a detriment to vital 
actions. The food should be generous but should not be given to the 
degree of gormandizing. Only moderate rations at the proper times 
should be indulged in. Foods of bone forming constituents can be used 
liberally to advantage; such as bran, oilmeal in small quantities, and oats 
with corn and cornfodder, but always in connection with plenty of ex- 
ercise. Brood-mares should be turned out for exercise every day. Large 
quantities of innutritions food, such as straw and poor hay, is a detri- 
ment to brood-mares heavy in foal. 

BEST TIME TO BREED. 

Nature almost always indicates the proper time to commence breed- 
ing. Frequently, if the weather in this north latitude is warm in March 
or April, mares are very sure to come in heat; but our experience is that 
where one mare gets in foal, three or four will fail when bred before the 
middle of May or June. However, where you are supplied with your 
own stallion, the breeding might be commenced at any time and con- 
tinued indefinitely, if very early colts are desired in the spring or late 
in the fall or even winter. But the chances are so much against the 
practice, that it will not be successful in the long run to make it a busi- 
ness with public sires. People generally, who have not had much ex- 
perience, are too apt to laj' the failure at the door of the stallion, when 
the condition of the mare is far more at fault than the stallion. 

PECULIAR NOTIONS ABOUT WHEN TO BREED. 

There are a great many peculiar notions about the particular stage 
of the heat to breed; and especially in relation to the sex of the antici- 
pated ofifspring. We have made many observations in this relation, and 
have come to this conclusion: that the very best time to breed is when 
the mare is at the height of the heat. And if at that time, the stallion 
is in the height of vigor and the mare is somewhat debilitated or fatigued, 
the prospects are more favorable for colts than fillies, and vice versa. 
Still, you must not construe the manifestation of vigor to a sprightly 
action alone. The one recovering the most rapidly from fatigue, has the 
advantage in controlling the sex. Stallions kept at active exercise, but 
not to the point of fatigue will get a majority of horse colts; and those 
given but a limited amount of exercise are generally apt to get more fil- 
lies than colts, if the mares are strong and vigorous. But there are so 
many varying conditions that even this cannot be relied upon. 

CONDITION OF THE MARE WHEN BRED. 

Probably the most important consideration at the breeding time, is 
to know that your mares are in a healthy state, in relation to their gen- 
erative organs. 

Mares that have worked hard and been exposed to inclement weather 
through the winter, are often troubled with leucorrhea or whites, known 
by a copious discharge from the parts; frequently taken for the height 
of the heat. This is a tenacious mucous that will act as a hindrance 



HORSE SENSE. 59 

rather than an aid to impregnation, and it will be of no advantage to 
breed the mare although she is in heat. 

Mares troubled this way, will remain in heat much longer than those 
in a healthy condition. The disease acts as a local irritant and keeps up 
the excitement. The treatment of this difficulty, consists in cleansing 
the parts by a thorough syringing with warm water and best English 
castile soap, and then follow with an injection of an infusion of Witch 
Hazel leaves (Hamamelis), a half an ounce of leaves to a quart of boil- 
ing water; let stand, covered, until only blood warm, then use with a 
syringe as before. This cleansing process should be continued daily 
until the mare is well, when she may be bred with success. 

EARLY GRASS NATURE'S RENOVATOR OF THE SYSTEM. 
Early grass is Nature's great renovator of the system, and for this 
reason, mares are more certain to conceive after grass comes than be- 
fore. Many advocate fall breeding, but there is where the difficulty 
comes in; if the mare's generative organs are healthy, it is all right; but 
too many are badly debilitated from a hard summer's work, to make it 
anything like a sure business generally. 

EXAMINATION OF WOMB. 

If mares are kept fat during the winter, it is important to make an 
examination, to ascertain that the mouth of the womb is open; and if 
closed (which fat often does) it should be gently dilated before she is 
bred, or there is little or no use of the service. The fingers coated with 
belladonna ointment will serve to aid in the dilitation. Some use the 
soft rubber impregnitator, which remains in place during copulation 
(service) and aids the seed in being carried to the proper place. 
TRYING THE MARE. 

There is but little trouble in determining when the mare is at the 
proper stage of the heat for successful breeding; she will plainly indicate 
it without the excessive teasing and annoyance usually gone through 
with. No doubt many of the irritable dispositions of our horses could 
be traced to the terrible ordeal their dams went through with at the 
teasing rack. Don't allow your mares to be "chewed up" at the "try 
pole." Take them to some other horse, rather than have them seriously 
annoyed by a stallion in the hands of thoughtless or careless grooms. 
You are laying the foundation for future generations of horses and it 
behooves you to have nothing interfere with the successful beginning. 
As little excitement with both mare and stallion before and at time of 
service, we believe to be the best for the progeny. If the mare can be 
left for a time in sight and hearing of the stallion, it is preferable, if she 
is naturally nervous. 

RETURNING THE MARE FOR TRIAL. 

If the mare was bred at^he proper time, she should be returned in 
twenty-one days, and if she then refuses, don't tease her, but return in 



60 HORSE SENSE. 

one week, then the second week, and so on, till the fourth or fifth week, 
and if she still refuses she is almost certainly in foal. 

TREATMENT OF THE MARE WHILE IN FOAL. 

The mare in foal should have daily exercise, but not of too exhaust- 
ive a character, nor too sudden and rapid. If a draft mare, she should 
not be pulled too hard, and if a trotter, she should not be trotted too far 
or very fast, after the middle of the term of utero-gestation. But regu- 
lar exercise is absolutely essentia] for ihe best results. 

FOOD FOR THE MARE IN FOAL. 

The best food for the mare in foal is bone and muscle making food^ 
such as oats, bran, some corn, a little oil-meal cake and carrots; corn 
fodder and good hay in small quantities. Concentrated food is the best 
where there is tendency to relaxation of the bowels. A large quantity 
of feed given at any time in connection with vigorous exercise, is liable 
to bring on a miscarriage; oats or flax straw in large quantities may" 
produce diarrhoea, and abortion follow. Regular exercise and good 
nourishing food in moderate quantities, is always the sure road to suc- 
cess with the mare in foal. 

PERIOD OF UTERO-GESTATION. 

The mare usually carries her foal about eleven months; but the time 
will vary so greatly sometimes, as to give room for doubt of all being^ 
right with the marc or her foal, yet when we know that the time may be 
shortened even five weeks, or extended six weeks, it is not best to enter 
into special interference without there is evident trouble with the mare. 
Large and slow maturing mares are more liable to carry the foal longer 
than the close built mares of early maturity; yet this may vary in either 
case from the character of the food or from some accident that will bring; 
on foaling sooner than otherwise. 

TIME OF FOALING. 

At the time of foaling, the mare should have all her surroundings as- 
quiet arid as comfortable as your circumstances will at all permit. 

If the weather is warm and pleasant the paddock or field is the best 
place; otherwise a good roomy box stall will do very well, in which case 
it will pay well to keep a close watch of her movements, and as soon as 
you find that she is in pain, you should stay with her until the foal is on 
its feet and taking its nourishment properly. 

Don't be ofificious and try to hurry matters along before there is good 
and sufficient reason for your interference. Many a good mare and foal 
has been destroyed by what is called scientific delivery, an ofificious in- 
terference. Nature will do her work well, if you have done yours prop- 
erly in the feed and care of the mare beforehand. Sometimes the foal 
may be so large and the mare's pelvis so small, that the labor may be 
prolonged until the mare is very much exhausted, when your help may- 
be a great advantage, both in assistance in delivery and in sustaining: 
the mare afterwards. 



R1 
HORSE SENSE. 



main a long time, witn n assistance, which 

;■?, br.T"ir;-h:M :. */™t a„d pu,H„. o„>y. wHe„ .he ™a. 
"IrthT^^rfh" rath";.! ,abor, she n,ay be so p.os.ra.ed .hat she 

oatmeal gruel (very thin) to give her from a pail or bottle. 
WRONG PRESENTATIONS. 
Whenever other than the natural presentations -- P^^^^^^ j^^j^t 
,.e very unusual) you should lose no time -^ -;-;;;j^^t^^,';;Vd^, 

AFTER FOALING. 

The mare should be watched carefully to see that she is kept warm 
The mare shouia oe w difhculties that will re- 

enough, -/J^;^^7/,,^;,;tr H o6d should- be of the laxative 

r„l flndu ier o their satisfaction, both dam and foal are apt to get 
and .f indulgeo t quantities of cold water it is liable to 

IreTnd foal will do well until weaning time, when the colt wtll be 
treated under a separate chapter. . .,,^;.i^ 

We have dwelt at apparent length in some particulars in this article, 
but we Wy realize tha? the horse business is daily taP™""f -^J" 
m„;. make Ae best of it, it we meet the sharp competmon of he Ju u e 

-e =: ^r-%^:zx = :s;^:o'f:infr depths 

of any business, we must then go into the details. 

CARE OF THE YOUNG FOAL. 

After the foal is up and around it should have a free operation of the 

bowels If it should not you will notice that it is uneasy; it wUl switch 

its tai draw up at the flanks, breath short and strain more or less, x 

it me now to prepare an injection of slippery elm water, flax seed water 



62 



HORSE SENSE. 



or even castile soap suds and inject it into the bowels freely, until the 
large bowels are emptied; to be repeated if found necessary, 'fiut don't 
resort to physic, without you are compelled to. Better depend on laxa- 
tive food for the dam, than to derange the stomach of the little fellow by 
medicines that irritate. 

If the mare refuses to own her foal she should be tied both ways in 
her box stall and shackled all around. 



CHAPTER XII. 

HEREDITARY TRAITS IN HORSES. 
Hereditary entailment is not confined to deformity. It is now cer- 
tain that all defects are transmissible, and that accidental deformities 
frequently become perpetuated in the progeny. But it is not alone 
physical deformity that may be entailed. Habits, peculiarities of tem- 
per and behavior, and many singularities are transmitted with unerring 
certainty. ^^^^ WEAVING IN HER STALL. 

A well-known mare- had a habit of weaving,— swaying her head back 
and forth -in her stall,— and at the same time raising one foot and then 
the other about an inch from the ground. She had three colts, and the 
habit was transmitted to each. 

MARE NEVER KNOWN TO LIE DOWN IN HER STALL. 
A mare that was never known to lie down. This mare, for thirteen 
years, was never seen off her feet except to roll, and she foakd a iilHy 
which inherited the same peculiarity. 

MARE THAT WAS BOSS OF THE YARD. 
The mare that takes her own part in the field and bosses the yard, 
will, in all probability, produce a foal that will be equally domineering. 
MARE THAT WOULD NOT STEP OVER AN OBSTRUCTION. 
We know of a mare that will not step over an obstruction a foot high, 
and the bars must all be let down to the bottom before she will leave 
the field, and one out of five of her produce evince the same disposition. 
HABIT OF SCRAPING BACK THE BEDDING. 
The habit of scraping the bedding back, and piling it up in the rear 
of the stall, is certainly hereditary. 

MARE THAT COULD NOT BE TURNED OUT TO PASTURE. 
A friend has a mare that cannot be turned out to pasture because of 
her propensity to jump fences. A filly out of this mare has developed 
this same propensity in a marked degree. 

A STALLION THAT HELD UP ONE FOOT WHILE EATING 

HIS GRAIN. 

A prominent sire that we knew very well had the habit of holding 
one front foot off the floor while eating his oats, and this habit was 
transmitted to many of his offspring. 



€4 HORSE SENSE. 

A STALLION THAT WAS VERY DAINTY ABOUT HIS DRINK- 
ING WATER. 

A sire that was very dainty about the drinking water offered him, 
produced the same characteristic in his progeny, while another, that 
drank very rapidly and unhesitatingly, transmitted a similar disposition 
to many of his get. 

THE OLD MARE THAT WAS HANDY ABOUT OPENING 
DOORS OR GATES. 

The old mare that could open the stable door, get into the grain bin, 
etc., is very apt to impart a similar disposition to some of her descend- 
ants. 

HEREDITY OF GAIT IS NOT ALWAYS TRANSMISSABLE 

UNIFORMLY. 

A few trotting sires or trotting dams produce speed uniformly, but 
the trotting instinct, and the disposition to do nothing but trot, is not 
so strongly hereditary in a large proportion of the progeny that the ab- 
sence forms the exception to the rule. 

LOOK OUT FOR HEREDITARY TRANSMISSION OF OBJEC- 
TIONABLE FEATURES. 

The heredity of straight pasterns, small knees and hocks, tied in be- 
low the knee and hock; toeing out, toeing in, interfering, too high or 
too low gaited, and, in fact, everything or anything that is not desira- 
ble, must be observed and avoided, because the law of heredity is bound 
to be manifest for good or evil, and it is our place to avoid the bad 
and preserve the good characteristics of our horses. 

The whole problem^ of heredity presents the most interesting phcr 
nomena. The lessons that are being learned from the wonders it pre- 
•sents in the material universe are of incalculable value to the scientific 
breeder. To him heredity has a wide significance. He takes advantage 
of the hereditary tendencies toward good qualities, and works from those 
that bring bad forms and compromising progeny. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

THE NUMBER AND VALUATION OF THE HORSES OF THE 
UNITED STATES. 

The highest number ever reached by our horses was in 1893, when 
they counted up to 16,206,802, and were valued at $61.22 per head. 

The highest valuation ever placed upon our horses was in 1884, 
when it was put at $74.64 per head, and then they numbered 11,169,683. 

The lowest valuation ever placed upon our horses was in 1897, when 
it was $31.51 per head, and they numbered 14,364,667. 

The total valuation of our horses in 1892 was $1,007,593,636, and five 
years later, in 1897, the valuation had fallen off $554,944,240, over half a 
billion dollars. Is it any wonder that we thought the bottom had fallen 
out of the horse business? While we have gained $58,425,417 in valu- 
ation in the last two years, on a losing basis of 699,360 horses, if we had 
only held our own in numbers, the increased total valuation, instead of 
the amount just mentioned, would have been $84,564,387, showing that 
we are getting back to the old standard of prices as rapidly as we can 
reasonably expect. 

ENCOURAGEMENT TO THE BREEDERS OF THE PRESENT. 

If the above is not encouraging to the farmers who have good brood 
mares, I am frank to confess I do not know what would stimulate them 
to action. 

The greatest point with the breeders (and they are the farmers) of 
today is, that they must see to it that they exercise more care in the 
selections of breeding stock. The standard of size, quality, symmetry 
and action is getting higher and higher, and to be "in it" you must be 
"in it" for all there is "in it." 

Foreign countries are now looking to America for their war horses 
as well as drivers and drafters, and there is every indication that we will 
be unable to supply their demands over and above the requirements of 
our own country, notwithstanding the great laudation of the automobile 
to the displacement of the noble, faithful and reliable equine race. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

FARMERS AS HORSE BREEDERS. 

We want the farmers who have good brood mares to fully understand 
that the future promises a greater demand for horses of high quality, 
\n any of the established types, than for many years, notwithstanding the 
trolley cars, automobiles, bicycles, etc. The decrease in the number 
of horses in the United States was nearly 300,000 head within the past 
year, yet, the total valuation (even with this heavy loss) has increased 
$32,712,417, regardless of the hue and cry by the newspaper writers that 
"the horseless age is upon us." 

FARMERS BREED AND RAISE NEARLY ALL THE HORSES 
OF THE COUNTRY. 

Now, don't forget that the very large majority of all our horses are 
bred and raised by farfhers. Then should not all the farmers who have 
brood mares of high tjuality fully understand the true situation? It is 
from the best brood mares that we must expect to get the character of 
horses demanded by the buyers. Unless we have brood mares of good 
quality, we will fall far short of our expectation in the produce, no mat- 
ter how much quality is possessed by the sire. 

THE STALLION CONSIDERED HALF THE HERD. 

While it is a trueism that should never be forgotten, that the sire 
is half the herd, and we must look to him to make improvements in 
conformation to a great degree, it is also as important that the brood 
mare possess the quality, stamina, nerve force, endurance and intelligence 
necessary to enable her to transmit these essential characteristics to her 
produce. 

MIXING OF BREEDS IS FOLLOWED WITH DISASTROUS 

RESULTS. 

There is another thing the horse-breeeding . farmer should clearly 
understand, and that is, we can never mix our several breeds and types 
of horses in the breeding relation without great danger of losing some 
of the best qualities possessed by sire or dam, whereas when we adhere 
to the same class, our chances are much better for improvement. When 
we cross-breeed we often lose the identity of both breeds, and the mix- 
ture in the offspring (if a filly) will require several generations to eradi- 
cate by the most careful methods. 



^ HORSE sieiisE. 6!lr 

-'■' THE FARM HORSE. 

Besides raising horses for market, it will be wise for. breeders to con- 
sider the right kind of horse to raise for the farmer. There are hun- 
dreds of thousands of horses used on the farms of this country, and this 
number must be renewed in part every year. The farmer is really the 
greatest factor in the horse market today, and a little consideration of his 
needs is necessary. 

ACTIVITY AND PROMPTNESS ESSENTIAL IN THE FARM 

HORSE. 

Strength is not the sole requisite in a farm horse. The true farmer's 
horse is one equally serviceable in pulling the plow or trotting to market 
with a light wagon. The farm horse should thus be a medium between 
the draft and road horse, and may be of the light draft stock or of the 
heavier of the road types. Courage, determination, and quickness in tak- 
ing hold of loads are very important qualities in this kind of horse. 
'Animals weighing i,ioo pounds, with these qualities, will often be more 
serviceable than the team that weighs hundreds of pounds more. A 
quick, Steady walker is very essential. Did you ever stop to compute 
how' many days' work you could save in plowing a field with a quick 
walking team as compared with a slow one? The team tKat gets over 
the ground rapidly saves time and money to the owner. 

Farm horses should have good lung power and good feet and legs 
for the farm. The farmer who attempts to raise colts for his own use 
should be careful to select good breeders, that will produce progeny of 
the desired type. Very often the farmer can raise his own horses bet- 
ter than some professional breeder. 

DRAFT HORSES FOR THE FARMER. 

The advantages to the farmer in breeding draft horses is that they 
require less care in handling and training, because they are not so 
hot blooded as the carriage and road horses generally, and will there- 
fore go to market with less preparation. Then, again, slight injuries 
from wire fences and trifling blemishes through accidents, reduce the 
market value less than in the more highly finished types. The demand, 
for the production of horses of first quality of all types is slowly but 
surely improving, and every farmer who has brood mares tending- 
towards the draft type, should not fail to select the best draft stallions 
obtainable to breed to. It costs no more to raise a well-formed, mus- 
cular, strongly-constituted horse than a nondescript, weakling good- 
for-nothing. 

VALUE OF THE HORSE IN HIS MOVING POWER. 

The intrinsic value of our horses is in their moving power, and, as a. 
consequence, the horse is valueless when standing still; therefore, the 
closest attention should be given to producing animals with the best of; 
feet and legs. Associate with these a good digestive organization, withi 



m HORSE SENSE. 

strong muscular development, and we have greatly improved the work- 
ing value of our horses, — and this is the end sought by the breeder, 
feeder and handler. 

THE UNDERSIZED, DEFECTIVE DRAFT SIRES GELDED. 

Keep the matter of soundness, size, symmetry, quality, perfection and 
'disposition constantly in mind, and pass the ill-formed, blemished, un- 
dersized stallions by, never using any of them, and they will soon be 
gelded and set to menial labor, and the country will be thousands upon 
thousands of dollars richer; but if we continue to use them as sires, we 
will be growing poorer every year. 

SIZE OF THE DRAFT BROOD-MARE VERY IMPORTANT. 

To get size in what we produce, we must have large, rpomy brood 
tmares, and we should give as much attention to soundness and quality 
in the brood mare as in the stallion. We must conform to the great 
^natural law of "like begetting like" if we ever make the desired im- 
provement. If it is size we want, this should be carefully observed in 
both sire and dam. Add quality, symmetry, constitution and disposition 
to both, and we will make great improvement but disregard all these, 
and then we are sure to conclude horse-raising don't pay. We should 
study this question more thoroughly, and then we will have greater suc- 
cess and fewer failures. 



CHAPTER XV. 

INTELLIGENCE OF THE HORSE. 
A great deal has been said and written about the intelligence of ani- 
mals, and almost all agree that dogs, monkeys and elephants are highly 
endowed; but some believe the horse is about the dumbest of all 
animals. 

EDUCATION OF THE HORSE VERY IMPORTANT IN RELA- 
TION TO HIS WORK. 
The great reason for believing the horse a dumb brute is that edu- 
cators have had the least patience with the horse, owing to the fact that 
an iron bit is used in his mouth, and he is by this means forced to do his 
master's will, without understanding just what is desired of him. The 
difference in the manifestations of intelligence is due m.ore to the edu- 
cator than the animal to be educated. 

WONDERFUL MEMORY OF THE HORSE. 

There is certainly one point decidedly in favor of the horse in re- 
spect to his education, and that is, that whatever he learns and under- 
stands he never forgets; and this cannot be truthfully said of all men. 
Horses, like people, have strong likes and dislikes, and where one edu- 
cator succeeds, another will fail. It is all in the horse and man thor- 
oughly understanding, or not understanding, each other, and by mutual 
consent being friends or enemies. 

VALUE OF SUGAR FOR THE NERVOUS WILD HORSE. 

That through the medium of the stomach is the surest road to the 
afifections of the horse, there can be no question, when associated with 
otherwise kind treatment. Sugar being a little sweeter than the dam's 
milk, man may, by the use of this tempting morsel, divert the affections 
of the young colt from its dam to himself, and thereby make a lasting 
and faithful friend of the horse when matured. We know of no other 
one thing that has so much to do in gaining the attention and good will 
of the nervous wild horse as small quantities of sugar, fed from the hand, 
of man, in the spirit of kindness and affection. By this treatment and 
education, the valuable and trusty animal is made; and the reverse treat- 
ment makes him unreliable and dangerous. 

THE HORSE AND HIS INSTRUCTOR SHOULD UNDER- 
STAND EACH OTHER. 

The earlier we begin the education of our horses, the more valuable 
servants they make, and the more money they will bring in the market. 



VO HORSE SENSE. 

The horse appreciates kind, intelligent treatment as well as man, and 
when the horse and his tutor fully understand each other, it is astonish- 
ing how rapidly the horse acquires his education. 

The domestication and education of the horse was undoubtedly first 
practiced in Asia, next in Europe and Africa, and afterwards in America, 
Australia and New Zealand; Even among, the natives of the latter 
country, they practice one of the most humane and absolutely safe 
methods (though very crude) , in training and quieting the wild horse 
than probably any others in the world, appealing wholly to horse sense 
and familiarity. 



A HORSE THAT REGULATES HIS OWN HOUSEHOLD. 

My attention was recently called to a case of almost human iiitelli-^ 
gence in a horse. The animal is Trusty Gun, owned by Mr. G. L. 
Harmon, Machias, Maine. He is a dark bay gelding, 15. i hands, and 
weighs 1,050 pounds. He was sired by Parker Gun, a son of Jay Bird, 
by George Wilkes. His dam was Aunt Rhoda, by Trusty Boy, son of 
Mambrino Patchen. 

When very young this horse showed rare intelligence, and now 
sorne of his regular habits are little less than marvelous. He has been, 
furnished two box stalls, one adjoining the other, and connected with 
a door. One of these rooms has its fioor covered with about four inches 
of mill sawdust, and is used by the animal as a bedroom. The sawdust 
is renewed but twice a year, and only then because of the dust that is 
brought in on the colt's feet. 

"The room adjoining this sleeping-room is used as a living-room. 
In one corner is an iron feed dish, below which is a crib for hay. An- 
other corner is used by the horse for his excraments. At one side of 
the room is a box, 20x30 inches, which is used as a urinal, and never 
since this box was built has the horse used any other part of the room 
for this purpose. The box is kept filled with sawdust, which is renewed 
often. The blanket which the colt wore was spotless, and not so much 
as a stain has ever found its way to either cover or horse. 

THE STOLEN HORSE KNEW HOW TO OPEN HIS STABLE 

DOOR. 

A gentleman in Vermont had a favorite Morgan horse stolen, and 
four years after, he saw, in his native town, a horse that he thought was 
the one he had lost, and told the man so who had him, but the man as- 
cured him that he came rightfully by the horse and had paid his hard 
earned cash for him, and was not willing to hear of another's claim to his 
favorite animal. The man who had lost the hOrse said: If you will 
drive up In the alley back of my barn, and let the horse have his own 
way, and if he does not go straight to my stable door, pull out the wooden 
pin that fastens the door, push the door open and go directly to the third 
stall from the end of the barn and take his place there, I will feel cer- 
tain that he is not mine, but if he does, then you should be convinced 
that he has been there before by his own efforts. The man who had 



HORSE SENSE. *^1 

the horse thought the offer a fair one and agreed to do so. When the 
horse wis tinhitched' and left to go his own way he went straight to the 
stable door, pulled out the pin, pushed open the door and took his place 
in the third stall, as predicted by his former owner. The man said, that 
is a very clever feat, and shows that the horse must have been here be- 
fore, ijut it is not sufficient proof. that you are the present lawful owner, 
'when the neighbors all testified that the horse had been stolen from the 
owner of the place, and that they felt sure that the horse was the same, 
the man very reluctantly gave up the ownership, even though he said 
he would rather .part with $250. 

A HORSE THAT KNEW BUSINESS FROM PLEASURE. . 
James P. Barton, Scraritoii, Pa., owns Kittle D., a great grand- 
daughter of Hambletonia'n 10. 'He says: "I use the mare for light driv- 
ing, also for delivery purposes, and she will not miss one of my two 
hundred or more customers without a Word from me. I can take her 
from the delivery wagon and hitch her to my road rig, and if she offers 
to stop at a single one of my customers, I will make any one a present 
of her." 
A HORSE THAT FULLY APPRECIATED HIS PRESERVER. 

"An incident which showed intelligence in a most emphatic manner 
occurred at the recent big fire at .Wa-ukegan, 111. It has been related how 
George Sells rescued his horse at great peril to himself, but it was not 
stated how the animal appreciated its master's services. After entering 
the burning barn, Mr. Sells merely untied the horse. Exhibiting little 
or no excitement, the animal stuck its he^d over its master's shoulder, 
gently rubbing its head against his face. Mr. Sells walked out hurriedly 
and the' horse followed meekly after him, retaining the position men- 
tioned. Mr. Sells tied the horse to a fence and was standing watching 
the progress of the fire, when suddenly he felt something rub against his 
face,, and, looking up, there stood his horse again gently and affection- 
ately rubbing its head against his cheek, as if to express its appreciation 
of its master's rescuing it from the flames. The dumb brute had broken 
the halter with which it had been tied in order to walk to its master's 
side to further express its feelings. Mr. Sells led the animal away ^ and 
tied it again, but with a whinney, it endeavored to persuade him not to 
leave it alone." 
A LAME HORSE THAT KNEW WHERE TO GO FOR RELIEF. 

A horse, after having been shod at a certain shop, went lame, and 
the next day, as soon as his owner turned him lose, the horse imme- 
-diately went to the shop where he had been shod and took his place on 
the floor where the shoe had been nailed on. While the smith thought 
strange of the horse doing so, he drove him out of the shop with a slap, 
and as the horse limped off he thought no more of the incident. The 
next day the horse was still worse, and the owner turned him out of the 
stable as before, and he went straight to the shop again, took his posi- 
tion on the floor, and held his lame foot up, when the smith took off the 



72 HORSE SENSE. 

shoe and found that one nail had spUt, and a portion had entered the 

sensative tissue. This gave reHef and the horse went away and did not 

return. 

A HORSE THAT KNEW HE WANTED TO BE SHOD. 

A large gray horse belonging to J. W. Watkins, known as Old Sam, 
visited the blacksmith shop so often that he was led out two or three 
times during the day. Sunday morning early he took his stand in front 
of the shop, and there he remained all day in the hot sun, never leaving- 
except when led away by his owner. Monday evening, as soon as un- 
hitched, he left his feed, which had been placed in the wagon box, and 
again took up his stand in front of the blacksmith shop. By this time a 
considerable crowd had gathered at Webster's store, and it was sug- 
gested that Old Sam wanted shoeing. The blacksmith was sent for, and 
on opening the shop door Old Sam walked in and stood perfectly still, 
without bridle or any one holding him while the shoes were being nailed 
on. As soon as the job was completed he went back to his feed and has 
not visited the shop since. 

A HORSE THAT KNEW HOW TO AID HIS MASTER IN 

TROUBLE. 

A Norwegian farmer fell from his horse, and being severely hurt by 
the fall, and unable to extricate his foot from the stirrup, he was almost 
helpless. The horse tried to raise his master by laying hold of the brim 
of his hat, but, the hat coming ofif, this, attempt failed. The horse then 
"laid hold of the collar of his coat, and raised him by it so far from the 
ground that he was enabled to draw his foot out of the stirrup. After 
resting awhile he regained the saddle and reached his home." 

A HORSE THAT REALIZED THE CONDITION OF HIS 

MASTER. 

A friend of the author, and one who can be relied on for the truth 
of his statement, was away from home on a Christmas evening on horse- 
back (with his favorite horse) to a supper on the froiitier, and got the 
worse for the sparkling beverages provided liberally for the guests. 
When he decided to go home (against the earnest solicitations of his 
friends), he had to be assisted on his horse, but when mounted he and 
his friends thought all would result favorably. But when within about 
half a mile of home and his horse was feeling a little playful (not realiz- 
ing his master's comparative helplessness) roached up his back and 
kicked up, and his master went over his head, sprawling in the road. 
The jar from the fall and his condition rendered him immovable for the 
time being; but the horse stopped suddenly and seemed to wonder what 
had happened. He began very cautiously to nose his master's whiskers, 
and then rub his lips over the face of his prostrate human friend, when 
the man partially rolled over on his side. The horse viewed the situa- 
tion for a few minutes, and then taking the man's overcoat at the collar 
(as well as the underclothing) carefully in his teeth, he raised the man 
on his feet and held him there until his master had got a firm hold with 



HORSE SENSE. 73 

both hands into the heavy .flowing mane, and then the horse began mov- 
ing slowly towards home, supporting and half carrying his human com- 
panion to his own door. This portion of the trip involved the crossing 
of the Musselshell river, in Montana, on the ice, which was done with the 
greatest care. 

AN EQUINE COON HUNTER. 

Miner Yocumb, of Westphalia, Ind., has a bay mare that has devel- 
oped a strange propensity for an animal of the equine species. She 
hunts 'coons. The mare can "tree" a 'coon as well as the best trained 
'coon dog. She can track one by scent alone as accurately and as truly 
as a hound. When the animal trees a raccoon she will neigh and paw 
around the tree until Mr. Yocumb arrives to capture the 'coon. When 
going through the woods the mare will stop and smell a tree, and if 
there is a 'coon in it she will neigh until assistance comes. Mr. Yocumb 
often rides out on his '"coon mare," and never fails to return wilh two 
or three 'coons strapped across the back of his saddle. The mare seems 
to delight in hunting. When she strikes a train she will drop her nose 
down to the ground and start off at a dog-trot. When approaching the 
game she pricks up her ears and shows by her frisking that she is near- 
ing a 'coon. Mr. Yocumb would not part with the mare at any price. 

As this Hoosier story is so far out of the usual sphere of the horse, it 
will be looked upon with doubt, but it is certainly not beyond the capac- 
ity of some of the equine race, and Mr. Yocumb's friends assure me that 
it is all true. 

We could cite many more instances to demonstrate the intelligence of 
the horse, but we feel that every one who is associated with this greatest 
of man's animal friends, has observed enough to know, that those who^ 
treat their horses the kindest and try to teach them what their duties are 
without fighting them, are well convinced of what we are trying to im- 
press on their minds. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

HORSE EDUCATION. 

More than fifty years' experience in handling, training, breeding and 
care of horses, should entitle one to an opinion as well as a knowledge 
of the intelligence and susceptability of the horse to a useful education, 
notwithstanding many people contend that the horse is about the least 
capable of our domestic animals. 

HORSES ARE NATURALLY TIMID AND SENSATIVE. ' 

The timidity and natural fear of the horse is no doubt the result of 
environment, and he has from time long past depended on flight rather 
than battle to avoid his enemies. 

THE HORSE A SLAVE TO HUMANITY. 

The horse from time immemorial has been hunted, captured and 
forced into servitude for the convenience of man. While the flesh of 
many other animals has been used as food; the horse has had to serve out 
a life of drudgery, torture and humility, uritil death relieved him from 
human bondage. ' 

THE HORSE CONSIDERED ONLY A BRUTE. 

Far too many of the horse's captors, owners and drivers have con^ 
sidered him only a "brute" to be yanked, kicked, pounded and neg- 
lected to man's passion, indifference and sometimes pleasure. 

THE HORSE NATURALLY SUBMISSIVE. 

Were it not for the fact that the horse is naturally submissive, when 
dealt with in accordance with the laws of his organization, he would re- 
sent the punishment, scorn the indignities of being tied up by the 
head, and exposed to the cold blasts of winter to a hitching post without 
a blanket, while his master was enjoying the comforts of a fire and the 
companionship of friends, as well as many other sufferings that he is 
subjected to, by thoughtless, indififerent, careless or cruel hands. 

LAWS OF THE HORSE'S ACTIONS NOT WELL UNDER- 
STOOD. 

Many books on training have been printed, many horse trainers have 
traveled the country over, and many devices have been used to take ad- 
vantage of the horse's muscular strength, with the sole idea of subduing, 
conquering; overpowering and punishment. But the true principles and 
natural laws that govern the horse's actions for easy and natural com- 



HORSE- SENSE. 75 

pliance with the wishes of man, have been ignoi-ed, unknown, or mis- 
understood. And in too-many instances the very means that were in- 
tended to aid in the management of the "horse, have proved added tor- 
tures to him, from a non-compHapce of the natural laws governing the 
actions of the horse. Nearly all the ,bad^ actions of our horses are the 
results of misplaced confidence, confusioii^ahd a misunderstanding of his 
nature, abuse from hisi handler or trying tof force him to do what he 
does not understand. We should always work according to the laws 
governing the horse's actions and above all; be sure the horse fully un- 
derstands what we want him to do, and at the same time treat him with 
the utmost kindness, then he will appreciate what We do for him dpd in 
■turn,. -do for us all he is capable of without complaint,' 

THE HQRSE IS ENDOWED WITH INTELLIGENCE AND 

PASSIONS. 

If we are not willing to grant that the horse ^ is capable of great in- 
telligence, we are sure that he is endowed with much the same passions 
that we are, and when both man^ and horse get angry at the same time, 
resentment, destruction and revenge are often manifest, and as the 
horse has a very retentive memory, he is often made a dangerous ani- 
mal, where he might have been a docile and' useful friend. ^ 

USEFUL EVERY-DAY LESSONS RATHER THAN TRICKS. 

It should be our duty in the education of the horse to confine our- 
selves; to the every-day practical lessons, which will make him more use- 
ful in his duties, rather than to educate him to such tricks as only show 
his degree of intelligence, which are seen at the circus and other ex- 
hibitions. 

The capabilities of the horse for a useful education is greatly depend- 
ent on the size, quality and development of the brain, the same as with 
man. 

It is the universal practice everywhere to look at the head and face 
of man to form any idea of his character, and while but few are experts 
in reading human character, everybody intuitively forms their opinions, 
from this portion of the htiriian anatomy instead of some other, and 
there is no question but the horse's head qnd face is'^As good an index to 
his character as that of man to the human family. 

The page cut No. 2."], of heads of horses is something of a study for 
the reader, from the performances of the horses and their reputation. 
While they show in some respects many points of resemblance, there are 
others of striking differences. Fig. i at the top, represents the heads of 
President McKinley's favorite carriage team. Defiance and Selim, the 
latter on the ofif side. They are 1634 hands high, both chestnut, strip in 
faces, right front and both hind feet white; very stylish and tractable and 
can be rode at a 2:40 clip, and said to be the most beautiful and stylish 
pair ever owned at the White House. They were bred by Geo. Warren 
& Sons, Laurel Hill stock farm. Fox Lake, Wis. They are six years old, 
and descendents of the fine Arab stallion, Linden Tree, presented to 



76 



HORSE SENSE. 




Cut No. 27. 
REPRESENTATIVE HEADS OF HORSES. 



• HORSE SENSE. 77 

President Grant, by the Sultan of Turkey, while on his trip around the 
world. These heads are models in outline and should be studied. 
Length from base of ears to eyes shows brain power. Fig. 2 is that of 
Merchaison, a Clydesdale stallion, and fig. 3, of Guy, the famous pacer, 
record 2:06%. These should be studied in contrast, as both were un- 
wieldy to the rein, both heavy headed, but very different. Figs. 4, 5 and 6 
should be studied together as they are all noted horses and have a nation- 
al reputation. All good heads, but somewhat different in some respects. 
Fig. 4, John R. Gentry, record, pacing 2:00^ is a splendid business 
head and with proper treatment is very reliable in character. Fig. 5, 
Robt. J., pacing record 2:01^, shows a cheerful active brain and 
naturally playful. Fig. 6, is a model outline, shows great brain power, 
determination, courage and fidelity to his human master when well 
treated. Fig. 7, Flying Gib, pacing record of 2:04, shows a nervous 
organization, and while intelligent, is naturally eratic, and when pressed 
too hard, becomes treacherous and very unreliable. Fig. 8 is Fred, 
a very intelligent horse belonging to a friend. He has a wonderful mem- 
ory, and while he is timid, he is pleasant, affectionate and always cheer- 
ful. Fig. 9, McDonald, mare, playful, kind, cheerful, quick and active. 
The face line should be nearly straight, and wide between the eyes. Ro- 
man nose and "dish-faced" horses are generally objectionable. 

EXTENT OF THE HORSE'S CAPACITY FOR LEARNING. 

Dr. Key has gone so far with his horse Jim Key as to teach him the 
entire alphabet as well as many other things, which is still more con- 
vincing that horses only want to knov/ what we desire of them and they 

are ready and willing to comply with our wishes. 

FIDELITY OF THE HORSE TO HIS" MASTER. 

There are many instances on record to prove the fidelity, interest 
and patience horses have for those who have treated them kindly. There 
are also many others to demonstrate that the horse distinctively remem- 
bers the many wrongs he has suffered from his master and when the 
opportunity offers he seeks revenge. 

We remember well an old man (when we were mere boys) who would 
go to town and imbibe so freely that he was unable to mount his favorite 
mare, but when assisted to get on her back, the old mare would take 
great pains in trying to keep him in position, by weaving back and forth 
to keep under her master as he got out of balance, and if he chanced to 
suddenly get so far over to one side that she could not save him and 
he fell off, she would stay with him until some one came along to get 
him on her back again, when she would try again to get him home. 
The old man often said his mare was the most faithful friend he had and 
she should be well cared for, as long as he lived. Within the last few 
months a friend who had what was thought to be a very high lifed and 
dangerous horse, insisted on going home, a distance of about six miles 
when it was very dark, was found dead the next morning by the road- 
side where the buggy had upset and killed him; but this spirited horse 



78 HORSE SENSE. 

Still stood there and had not moved from the plate where the accident 
had happened. 

REMEMBRANCE OF WRONGS STORED UP BY THE HORSE. 

David Harum said "Ev'ry hoss c'n do a thing better 'n' spryer if he's 
been broke to it as a colt." We perfectly agree with David and wish to 
impress this fact on every one who raises horses. The early impres- 
sions of the right character made on the colt are of the first importance, 
and all of those of a bad character are equally dangerous; for whatever 
the colt learns either good or bad will be distinctly remembered. He 
never forgets. 

CONSIDERATION FOR RIGHT TREATMENT OF OUR 

HORSES. 

We cannot be too careful to do the right things with the colt and as 
carefully avoid everything that is not for the best. Kindness and dainty 
morsels fed from the hand, together with the means of control, are the 
surest and safest methods. 

UNDERLYING PRINCIPLES MUST BE UNDERSTOOD. 

We must first understand the underlying principles or natural laws 
governing the actions of our animals. If the horse is secure at one end 
of the body only he is sure to go in the opposite direction for relief. 
Fasten him at the front end of the body and he naturally goes back- 
wards to free himself. If fastened at the rear end only, he as naturally 
goes forwards to get away from the object of attack. These natural 
!aws are instinctively and constantly complied with in the actions of our 
horses, and whatever we have to do with them, must be in accordance 
with these laws, if we desire safe, reliable and enduring animals. 

HOW TO CATCH THE YOUNG FOAL AND MAKE NO 

MISTAKE. 

The first act on our part towards the young foal is to catch it and 
hold it without hurting it in any way. And we must not forget the law 
by which it will be influenced in its action. Instead of catching it 
around the neck and make it run backwards, as it naturally will and as 
naturally go forwards if we catch it at the rear end; then does it not as 
naturally follow, to make a success of catching the little Colt, we should 
catch it at both ends at the same time? By putting one hand under its. 
neck at the chest and the other back of its hams or catch it by the tail, 
we can hold the little thing without difficulty — can at the age of an hour 
or day old even lift it off the ground. In catching it in this way, it will 
try to go forwards when we press the hardest at the rear end and back-^ 
Wards when we make the greatest pressure at the front end. 

HOW THE YOUNG COLT SHOULD BE HANDLED. 

As soon as the colt gets quiet, which it will as soon as we have de- 
monstrated our superior power without giving it pain, then we should 
begin making ourselves acquainted with every part of its body; by 



HORSE SENSE. 79 

handling its legs, bring oiir hands in contact with every part of its body 
with the utmost gentleness. About the ears, back of the fore legs and at 
the flank, it is specially sensative; but if handled carefully for one or two 
minutes it becomes accustomed to the touch and does not mind it. 

SHOW THE YOUNG FOAL THAT WE ARE AS GOOD A 
FRIEND AS ITS MOTHER. 

While the colt will recognize our superior power — as among them the 
stronger rule, the weaker — we must, before leaving the little fellow, show 
it that notwithstanding we have caught it and held it, handled it all over 
without giving it pain, yet we are as good friends to it as its dam, and 
this we must demonstrate, by taking a little granulated sugar in the palm 
of the hand and press it between the colt's lips, by passing the hand 
across its mouth and take the hand away, when its tongue will come in 
contact with the sugar, which is a little sweeter than the dam's milk. 
Repeat this several times until the colt realizes where the sweet comes 
from, and the remainder is easy. 

Everything that loving kindness and ingenuity can devise should be 
done to impress upon the colt's mind thus early in life, that man is his 
natural protector and friend, between whom intimate companions'.. ip has 
been ordained by beneficent nature, which insures that he shall be pro- 
tected and cherished while he serves. Ah, me! if all colts could have such 
treatment, how few vicious horses we should see, and how much greater 
in the aggregate, would be the happiness which life would bring to them 
and man. The Arab regards the colt as one of his household, next in 
rank and importance to his children. His food and often his bed is 
shared with his horses, and the very young things are always treated with 
the utmost kindness and afifection; and such things as blows and kicks 
are not known to them. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

HORSE VOCABULARY. 

The vocabulary of words to be used in our relations with the horse, 
should be very carefully arranged, so that no two words have a similar 
sound and never use more than one short word for any one action. We 
should be very choice in the selection of the words which we use in 
handling our horses, and we would strongly urge that every horseman 
who reads this book, will feel as we do in this matter, and adopt the 
vocabulary here devised, in the hope that everybody will eventually adopt 
the same, and then our horses will understand the language of every 
horseman — it being the same. 

CHOICE WORDS FOR OUR HORSES. 

As a large majority of those who handle horses have no particular 
choice in the words used with their horses, and often use a combination 
of words that even the intelligent human being can rarely comprehend, 
is it any wonder that our horses have no better understanding of what 
is said to them? Then as no two horsemen have any well established 
vocabulary for their communications with the horse, is it not time some- 
one made up a list of words, for a beginning at uniformity? 

There seems to be a general understanding that the word whoa is to 
be used when we wish to «top. This is a very good word and we 
would not change it, but would emphasize the matter that it should 
never be used except when we wish to stop still, and not use it to slacken 
the pace or for any other action. The word back is also a good vv^ord for 
the purpose, and should be used only when the backward movement 
is desired, and never in connection with any other word, as is too often 
heard "whoa-back," as this would certainly be confusing. 

We should be as choice in our commands to our horses, as the officers 
of an army are to their men; and when everybody consents to the use of 
certain definite words for specific actions, then, and not until then, can 
we buy and sell or trade horses and have them understand what we say 
to them, which is the only rational manner of having the horse under- 
stand what we desire him to do. 

KIND WORDS BETTER THAN HARSH BITS. 

We are all aware that many will say that the bit is the only means of 
controling and directing our horses, and "with the whip in one hand and 
the lines in the other, we can force him to do our bidding." Yes, this 
can be done only to a limited degree, but to have the best service of your 
horse, he should understand what is wanted of him and then he will 



HORSE SENSE. 81 

gladly and willingly comply. But if we rely only on the lines and whip 
then we will have horses that are not to be trusted. 

ONLY A TEN WORD VOCABULARY. 

A uniform vocabulary of only ten words, if universally adopted, would 
be of inestimable value to both horses and horsemen, and if carefully 
■considered in its true light, it seems there should be no trouble to estab- 
lish it. Others may suggest a better formula, but as these have no 
similarity in sound and to the human mind have their meaning, as un- 
derstood or by common usage; it is as good as any other we can think 
■of, and find from long experience, that the horse readily learns what is 
expressed and does not seem confused in their use. 

In starting the horse, we like to be able to gather up the lines and 
draw them tight enough fo straighten them out, without the horse mak- 
ing a movement, and then before giving him the word for the forward 
movement, we want to let him know that we are ready and then tell him 
to go ahead. Many of the accidents with horses are the result of horses 
starting before the- driver was ready. A large majority of horse hand- 
lers allow the horses to start as soon as the lines are touched — ready or 
not — and some drivers encourage the team in starting while the team- 
ster is climbing into the wagon. This is all wrong, and should be 
severely condemned. j 

SHORT VOCABULARY TO BE USED WITH OUR HARNESS 

HORSES. 

-ALREADY — is a good word to let the horse know that you are about 
to give him a command, and as soon as he knows what is meant he 
will fix himself for it, let it be of whatever character desired, and if 
not repeated in too rapid succession, he will act with precision and 
human-like. 

START — is an excellent word for the forward movement from a stand 
still, but should not be used except at the beginning, to start. 

HURRY — will answer to increase the gait at the walk if repeated at long 
intervals, and will do at the trot or pace, by repeating in rapid suc- 
cession — ^hurry, hurry, hurry, etc. 

RUN — cannot be beat when the highest rate of speed is desired, and the 
horse will comprehend just what is wanted, and by the association of 
the whip at the same time that the word RUN is used, he will in- 
stinctively break from any other gait into the run and if repeated with 
emphasis, he will do his best. 

STEADY — is a very good word to use when the gait is to be main- 
tained or slightly decreased and must be associated with a very steady 
pull on the lines, and the word used in a soothing tone, in degree as 
you desire him to maintain or decrease his speed. 

SLACKEN — indicates just what is wanted and in association with the 
pressure on the bit, will answer the purposes intended and in a very 
short time the word alone will answer the purpose. 

WHOA — is about the most important word in the vocabulary, and 
should never be used except a positive halt is desired, as so much may 



82 HORSE SENSE. 

depend on the prompt compliance with the command, that we cannot 
afford to have the horse misunderstand it, and if he has been well 
trained to it, he will instinctively stop at the sound of that word, and 
often prevent a variety of accidents. 
BACK — this is an important word to teach the horse, as often much 
depends on his understanding just how to perform the work of a 
backward movement with a load. He should first be taught this 
lesson out of the harness, as is described elsewhere in a very simple 
manner, in accordance with the equine law. 
HAW — this is the word of our fore-fathers who used but one line in 
driving one to eight horses, and by a pull of this line, and using the 
word HAW, the horses would turn to the left. 
GEE — this is also the word of our fore-fathers and was used in con- 
nection with a slight jerk on the one line and meant a turn to the 
fight. 

To the average boy of today these last two words HAW and GEE 
mean comparatively nothing, but the horse can be made to soon un- 
derstand just what is wanted, and as readily turn in the direction desired 
as he will at the word WHOA or BACK. So the reader can see that the 
horse may be directed by the word in all required movements, without, 
the use of line or bit in the usual way. 

Horses well instructed to the use of the single line system make the 
most reliable, intelligent and useful of our horses. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

GETTING THE CONFIDENCE OF THE LITTLE COLTS. 

Everyone familiar with the importance of having no mistakes made 
in the early education of our horses, will, no doubt, be sufficiently at- 
tracted by our handling to keep our company a few moments while we 
explain, in as plain and simple a manner as possible, what we believe to 
be the fundamental principle of procedure, as well as cheap and practical 
devices for the purpose. 

No one who has studied the character and disposition of our horses 
will deny but what we must first get the confidence of our pupil before 
we can make much headway in his education. But how to get that con- 
fidence and maintain it, is the first question to be solved. We firmly be- 
lieve that the best possible time is when the young foal is but one hour 
to one day old. And the best method is to feed the young thing gran- 
ulated sugar from the hand, by first rubbing it between its lips until it 
knows where to find it, as well as where to get the milk from its mother, 
which it also has to learn. As soon as the young colt realizes that it 
can get as sweet food from the master's hand as from the udder of its 
dam it as readily goes to one as the other. As soon as the colt realizes 
this fact, it has confidence, and our word for it, that confidence will 
never be wanting unless we deceive it in some way. 

As soon as the colt will come to you and eat sugar from the palm 
of your hand (See cut No. 28.) without apparent fear, you can begin to 
handle and restrain it. Be sure you touch every part of its body with 
your hands. Handle it as gently and kindly as you would a baby — which 
it really is, and sensitive, too. 

Keep this up from day to day, until it will really look lor your com- 
ing as a period of comfort, enjoyment and relish. 

As it grows stronger and more familiar with you, it will be well to 
assure it that you are stronger; but, while you may hold it, it is not to be 
hurt or punished in consequence, but on the contrary, it is to be caressed, 
petted and even given sugar, which goes farther to satisfy it that there is 
no harm meant than anything else that mortal man can do for it. 

TRAINING TO THE HALTER. 

When the colt is about ten days or two weeks old is, probably, the 
best time to educate it to the legitimate use of the halter. While you 
have really had no trouble up to this time, there is great danger that 
right here you and the young equine will have a disagreement — a falling 
out^a misunderstanding — and possibly a lasting grudge at each other.. 



84 



HORSE SENSE. 



But if you will bear with us patiently and follow closely the instructions 
we will endeavor to make plain, you will soon realize how easy it is to 
educate a little colt to the halter. 

Of course, if you have done the first part properly — got the colt's con- 
fidence — you will have no trouble in putting a halter on its head. But 
because you had no trouble in getting the halter in place, don't think for 
a moment that you will have no trouble in leading it, because you will, 
ninety-nine times out of a hundred, and this is just what you must avoid. 
Please mark well what we have to say about the further procedure. 




J^Kl> 






Cut No. 28. 
FEEDING THE YOUNG COLTS. 

FASTENING THE COLT AT BOTH ENDS. 

After the halter is nicely adjusted to the colt's head, take about ten 
or twelve feet of rope, clothes-line size, and tie a ring in one end or form 
a loop in the end to make a slip-noose; then place this rope around the 
colt's body — right around the loin and flank, running the rope through 
the ring or noose on the under side of the body; then pass it between 
the forelegs and up under the jaw-strap or nose-band of the halter as 
shown in the cut No. 29. 

JUST READY FOR THE FIRST HALTER LESSON. 

Now, and not until now, are you really ready for business without 
Hanger of a mistake, and if you follow instructions you will be well paid 



HORSE SENSE. 



85 



for the time and trouble of reading this article, if you are not already in 
possession of a better method. 

Now, take the strap of the halter in one hand, and the small rope in 
the other; take a position at a slight angle with the body of the colt, (but 
not so much as is shown in the cut) and begin to gently pull on the hal- 
ter; you will observe that the colt has an inclination to resist you— go 
back on you for the first time — but just as it is about to do so give a 
sudden and positive pull on the rope, and both you and it will be sur- 
prised at the result — you will both find you are very near to each other, 
and you should recognize the close proximity by caressing it, and assur- 
ing it that you are still its friend, and that no harm was meant. 










Cut No. 29. 



If it is excited or confused by this new deal, don't push the matter 
farther until it is quiet, and satisfied with the new situation; then again 
get into position and repeat as before, and continue until the young thing 
will lead about wherever you may want to go. The halter education, as 
we term it, by this method will require only from five to fifteen minutes, 
whereas, by the other method — pulling on the head alone — you have 
but little idea where the end of trouble is. 

By this improved method, you can readily see that you really have 
the colt hitched at both ends, and, by the proper manipulation.in ac- 
cordance with the laws of its nature, the little thing is trying to get to. 
you, instead of away from you — an important point. 



86 HORSE SENSE. 

HALTER— PULLERS ARE OFTEN MADE WHEN FIRST 

HALTERED. 

The first few times tying it up, use the rope around its body just 
the same, only, after passing the rope through the ring or tie-hole in the 
manger and tying it to the manger, carry back to the ring or jaw strap 
of the halter and tie there, leaving only about two feet of double rope 
from the head to the manger. This hitch prevents the colt pulling back 
on the halter (as the halter strap is not tied at all) swinging the head and 
throwing itself. Many of our halter-pullers are made by their breaking 
loose the first few times being tied up. The same method just given 
(except a stronger rope) is the right treatment for the halter puller. See 
Chapter XXHL 



CHAPTER XIX. 



FIRST LESSONS IN HARNESS AS WEANLINGS. 

When the colts are weaned and tied up, they must, of necessity, have 
exercise, and the best possible method, in our opinion, is to drive them, 
instead of turning them loose and taking the chances of their becoming 
nervous, wild, and getting hurt. 

We have studied this matter a great deal, and tried to get at the fun- 
damental principles of a rational equine education. For simplicity, 
cheapness and expediency, the method herein illustrated is the best we 
have ever seen or devised. See illustration No. 30; hitched for the start. 




Cut No. 30. 
THE OLD HORSE TEACHING THE WEANLING COLTS. 

The association of the young with the old, reliable and experienced 
horse, is of vast importance in the beginning. This is genuine "kinder- 
garten" school work and is simply wonderful in its influence with the 



88 



HORSE SENSE. 



little equine "urchins!" — they readily learn, by precept and example, how- 
to conduct themselves in the harness, without restraint by harsh bits in 
their young, tender mouths, irritating their lips and lascerating their 
tongues and gums. 

NO HARSH BITS USED IN THE COLTS MOUTHS— ONLY 
WEAR THEIR HALTERS. 
The colts are guided and restrained by their halters only; and mother, 
aunt, uncle or friend "stability," well harnessed to the cart, directs the 
way through the means of lines in the hands of a considerate driver. 
When the Kindergarten teacher starts, they are shown the way as well 
as compelled to go along. When the word whoa! calls for a positive 
stop, all hands stop at once, as per the force of the old horse and the 
method of fastening. Use the select words for all movements and it will 
be surprising how much actual education your colts will get in one week. 

THE KINDERGARTEN TEACHER HAS FULL CONTROL OF 

THE COLTS. 
With one hour a day, one, two, three or four can be handled at one 
time and require no more effort than the driving of the old reliable horse, 
who really controls the colts without pain or excitement — the real basis 
of true horsemanship. 

HAVE THE HORSE WAIT FOR THE WORD OF COMMAND. 
The colts should be taught to stand until all is ready for the start; 
when ready, give the word "start" to the old horse, and the colts will 
soon "catch on." Start off quietly every time. Teach them to walk, 
trot or pace, and run. See illustration cut No. 31. 







Cut No. 31. 
DRIVING ON THE ROAD. 

Stopping occasionally to get ofif the cart and go to them for a friendly 
recognition with a little sugar, sweet apple, cookie or other relished 
morsels. 



HORSE SENSE. 89 

DRIVE IN BAD PLACES, ACROSS BRIDGES AND CARRY AN 

UMBRELLA. 

Drive through muddy places, streams, over plowing, deep furrows, 
high weeds, small brush and bridges; meet teams and other obstruc- 
tions; carry an umbrella which takes the place of the top carriage; to 
get them used to having objects seen behind them; but whatever you do, 
don't hurt them. 

COLTS HELD IN POSITION BY CROSS-BAR, STRAPS AND 
JOCKY-STICKS. 

You will see, by close examination of cuts, Nos. 30 and 31, that the 
colts are held in position by straps running from a crossbar on long 
shafts, to their halters— serving as tugs or traces, and guided at the head 
by "jocky"sticks from each shaft to their halters to keep them from 
crowding the old horse. 

All the fastenings are with snaps, at the ring of each ones halter; re- 
quiring three snaps at each halter. The shafts can be made of two poles 
each about fourteen feet long and fastened to the axle and wheels of a 
carriage or wagon. The cross-bar behind the colts, to which they are 
fastened with straps or ropes, should be attached to the shafts just in 
front of the wheels, which will leave a considerable space between the 
colts and this cross-bar when they are all up in position, which will give 
them plenty of room for backward and forward movements in their edu- 
cation. 

EARLY LESSONS MADE EASY, ACCIDENTS AVOIDED AND 
IMPRESSION LASTING. 

A few drives in this manner will do more for the colts towards a 
useful life in all future work, than several months after they are fully 
grown. The old horse is strong enough to hold them in place and carry 
them along or restrain them under any and all circumstances, which is 
the very foundation of their future usefullness. To make valuable 
horses they must sooner or later learn these lessons, and the earlier in life 
it is done the better, and especially when there is so little danger of mak- 
ing mistakes, which are often made by their superior strength, when 
fully grown. 

ARRANGEMENTS OF THE ATTACHMENTS FOR THE COLTS. 

The jockey sticks are made of two good fork handles or other mate- 
rial of sufficient strength, and fastened to the ends of the shafts, so they 
will have sufficient motion for movements up and down backwards and 
forwards. It will be observed that a cross strap is used between the 
colts with a ring in the middle, to receive the snap of the strap or rope 
going between the colts back to the'^crossbar, which will pull equally on 
both. There is also an additional strap from the inside colts to the 
shaft, so that if the jockey stick should become detached from the shaft, 
that the colts cannot pull away to one side. Everything should be made 
secure and then there is no danger of any accidents or trouble. 



90 HORSE SENSE. 

ANYONE WHO CAN DRIVE AN OLD HORSE CAN DRIVE 

FOUR COLTS. 

By this method (which we believe is original with us) anyone who 
can drive the old steady horse can drive four colts. All there is in the 
work, is to keep the old horse going until you wish to stop, and by the 
use of the word whoa! a full stop must be made and the little colts in a 
few stops understand what is meant by whoa! as well as the old horse. 
They should never be started in any other way than by the word and if 
the old horse is well trained, the little colts will soon learn the starting 
word too. 

KINDERGARTEN WORK NEVER APPRECIATED UNTIL 

PRACTICED. 

Probably no one will ever appreciate the full value of the kindergarten 
education of the little colts until it is practiced. We must remember 
that notwithstanding the horse is mute, he is wonderfully intelligent and 
what is of more importance to know, is that he never forgets what he 
has learned, whether it is good or bad. This should impress upon our 
minds the importance of having our horses learn only the good lessons. 



CHAPTER XX. 

HOME MADE, BUT VALUABLE CART. 

This home made but very valuable cart (see cut No. 32), is made with 
the hind wheels and axle of a carriage or buggy, and two long poles 
(young growth hickory, iron-wood or any other tough, springy wood), 
clipped to the axle, provided with a crossbar and whippletree and a 
board seat at the rear end, with wedge shaped pieces under the back part 
to tip the seat forward for easy riding. These shafts should be fourteen 
feet long, with provision at the ends for the attachment of a strap across 
from point to point, to prevent the horse in rearing from throwing his 
front leg over the shaft, as when so provided with this strap the horse's 
legs striking the strap and he goes no higher. 

A VALUABLE VEHICLE FOR DRIVING COLTS OR UNRULY 

HORSES. 

This cart makes a very valuable vehicle for driving colts or unruly 
horses, as they are hitched so far ahead of the wheels that they do but 
little damage in kicking. If the horse throws himself, no particular in- 
jury is done, as the shafts are so springy that there is but little danger 
of breaking and if the horse is inclined to turn around suddenly, he is 
obliged to make so large a circle that he gets discouraged before he ac- 
<:omplishes his object. 

A GRAND VEHICLE FOR HANDLING THE RUNAWAY OR 

KICKER. 

If the horse starts to run away, we have only to let him have his head 
for an instant and the muscles of his neck will be so relaxed that we can 
instantly pull (by one rein) his nose to the line ring of the saddle, and 
he must stop or fall broad-side. 

AN EXCELLENT MEANS FOR EDUCATING THE HORSE TO 
TURN AROUND. 

If the colt does not answer to the bit in turning around, we should 
pull gently on the one rein, for the direction desired and raise up on 
our feet and carry the cart around which will point the colt in the desired 
direction we wish to go; the long shafts answering as levers to turn him 
around, showing him that we can turn him with but little effort and he 
soon learns what is meant by pulling the bit in his mouth. 



92 



HORSE SENSE. 



ATTACHMENTS TO THIS VEHICLE FOR DRIVING WEAN- 
LING COLTS. 

By placing the draft bar across the shafts of cart just in front of the 
wheels and clipping there, and then fastening the "T" end of the jockey 
sticks to the points of the shafts, we have the most admirable device for 
driving the little colts, as shown in cuts 30 and 31. This makes a com- 
bination that cannot well be dispensed with on any farm where colts are 
raised, as it costs but a trifle and it not only answers a variety of pur- 
poses, but enables us to manage the horse with so little trouble, and pre- 
vents many mistakes. 



DRAFT BA-R 9 Ft. 1.0HO 
SNAP 



JOCKEV-- stick/ ^' 




Cut No. 32. 
COMBINATION CART. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

PRINCIPLES, MEANS AND METHODS OF CONTROLLING 
HORSES THROUGH THE MOUTH. 

The main principle of handling the horse through the medium of the 
mouth is to have the punishment happen at a distance from you and if 
he does not come to you for relief, you should go to him and relieve him 
of any undue pressure that has been brought to bear on his mouth; as- 
suring him that when near you he can get relief, which he will learn in 
one or two minutes and be willing to follow you wherever you may go. 
It is always better to make your impression on his mouth when he is at 
an angle, instead of in front of him. This will induce him to turn on his 
hind feet and advance towards you, when you should relieve him every 
time, if he is in the least trouble. 

QUARTER INCH MANILA ROPE FOR THE SAFETY BRIDLE. 

To do this work most effectually, a small manila rope is the best, put 
on in the form illustrated by the cuts for the safety bridle, Nos. ss and 
34 here presented. First take the rope in your left hand about sixteen 
or eighteen inches from one end and lay it over the horse's neck, hold- 
ing on with the left hand; then reach under the neck with the right 
hand and grasp the rope near the end. 

LEARN TO TIE THE VALUABLE BOW-BOW-LINE KNOT 

Form a loop with the fingers of the left hand so that the portion go- 
ing over the neck shall be on top at the cross (not under), then pass the 
€nd of the rope up through this loop (not down through), and draw 
down so as to encircle the neck closely with the rope; now pass this 
end all the way around the main rope and put it down (not up), through 
this loop doubled, and grasp this doubled portion with the thumb and 
finger of the left hand and pull on the main rope, which will tie a very 
secure knot that will not slip and one that is very eisaly untied by pull- 
ing on the end, the same as you would untie your shoe when tied in a 
bow knot. This is a very convenient and secure knot for the purpose, 
and may be called the bow-bow-line knot. See illustrations Nos. ss and 
34- 

STUDY THE BOW-BOW-LINE KNOT CAREFULLY. 

The next step is to put the left hand between the neck and rope from 
the front and pull through a portion of the rope doubled, taking hold of 
the portion attached to the neck with the right hand, bringing it on the 



94 



HORSE SENSE. 



off or right side of the horse's mouth; then by putting the thumb of the 
left hand in the horse's mouth and making gentle pressure with the soft 
portion of the thumb against the palate or roof of the mouth, the horse 
will open his mouth readily, when you can pass the rope through the 
mouth with the right hand and grasp it with the left on the near or left 
side of the mouth, when the slack in the rope can be taken up by pulling 
on the main rope with the right hand, and the first form is properly ad- 
justed. 




Cut No 



PUTTING FIRST FORM ON THE HORSE BEFORE REMOV- 
ING THE HALTER. 

One of the valuable features of the safety bridle is that the first form 
can be put on the horse before the halter is taken off the horse's head, 
thereby avoiding any danger of the horse dodging or getting away while 
the bridle is being put on. This feature alone is worthy of due consider- 
ation in handling tricky horses. When this first form is put on, the hal- 
ter then can be taken off, and the horse is secure and we are ready to 
put the subsequent form in position. See cut No. 34. 




Cut No. 34. 
FIRST FORM ON UNDER THE HALTER. 

POSITIONS TO BE TAKEN WHEN ADJUSTING THE SAFETY 

BRIDLE. 

Now stand with your face towards the horse's tail and take hold of 
the rope with the right hand about one foot from the neck; then reach 



HORSE SENSE. 



95 



over the rope (not under) with the left hand (back up), palm down, and 
grasp the rope and lay up over the horse's head, back of the ears, in 
half hitch form, carrying the rope held in the right hand about to the 
base of the ears; pull down with the left hand to take up all slack in the 
rope; then change hands and hold this portion in the right hand under 
the horse's neck and again open the mouth as before with the left hand, 
pull the rope through with the right and grasp as before, with the left 
hand at the mouth on the left side and take up all slack in the rope, with 
the right hand, by pulling on the main rope, and we have the best stal- 
lion bridle (or for other use) in handling horses that we have ever seen 
or used. See cut No. 35. It operates by pulling the cheeks of the horse 
between his teeth and will prevent him from biting. 




Fig. 1. Fig. 2. 

Cut No. 35. 
SAFETY BRIDLE. 



Fig. 3. 



DON'T DRAG OR SAW THE ROPE THROUGH THE HORSE'S 

MOUTH. 
We have taken a great deal of pains to describe all the movements in 
putting this form of bridle on the horse, so that there will be no sawing 
of the rope through the horse's mouth, and make a perfect adjustment 
when completed. 

WHEN THE HORSE IS IN TROUBLE KINDLY GIVE HIM 

RELIEF. 
It must be strictly borne in mind, that the horse is not to be abused 
with this bridle by harsh usage, but whenever the horse is disposed to get 
away or be unruly, a pull on the rope when the horse is away from you, 
and then relieve him when he comes to you — every time — and he will 
very soon look upon you as his friend and reliever of trouble. But if 
you punish him without relief, he will have no respect for you, and you 
will fail in its intended use. The principle of kindness, associated with 
powerful means and the method of use, will perform wonders in the 
management of the horse. 



96 HORSE SENSE. 

USE THE SENSATIVE HORSE VERY GENTLY AND THE 
DULL-HEAD SHARPLY. 

The sensative horse must be used very carefully, and the willful dull- 
headed, can be handled more positively; but on the same principle of re- 
lief when near you, and in difficulty when away from you. Keep the 
principles in mind and success will follow. 

"YANKEE BRIDLE" OR ANOTHER MEANS OF CONTROL- 
LING THE HORSE THROUGH THE MOUTH. 

This character of rope bridle is preferable to the other in some in- 
stances but for the beginner and for leading the horse it is excellent. 

"YANKEE" BRIDLE CAPABLE OF MANY USES. 

This "Yankee" bridle can be used in many forms and for dififerent 
purposes, is what makes it valuable in very many cases. It is made of 
about qaurter-inch (like the former) manila rope, fifteen or twenty feet 
long, with a knot tied in each end to prevent fraying out. Tie a fixed 
loop in one end, just large enough to be put in the horse's mouth over 
the under jaw snugly, and when made, turn the knot through the loop, 
drawing the main portion of the rope through sufficiently to put over the 
horse's head, with the knot of the loop on the of? or right side of the 
horse (see cut No. 36); then proceed to place the loop portion into the 
horse's mouth with the lose portion of the main rope on the near or left 
side of the mouth. See fig. i, cut No. 2>7- This alone will make a good 
leading bridle for any horse. 

USED IN DOUBLE OR SINGLE FORM IN THE MOUTH OR 
UNDER UPPER LIP. 

If you need a very powerful bridle for an unruly horse, you may 
stand with your back towards the horse's tail, holding the main portion 
of the rope about one foot from the mouth in the left hand, reach over 
with the right hand and grasp the rope below about one foot and turn 
-with your face towards the horse's tail. and lay the rope on top of the 
head and take up the slack in the rope; then take hold of the rope just at 
the right side of the mouth, raise up the upper lip with the left hand 
(see fig. 2, cut No. 2>7^ ; and pass the rope across above the upper teeth 
and hold in position with the thumb of the left hand, and with the right 
hand take up all the slack of the main rope (see fig. 3, cut No. 2>7^; and' 
you have a bridle that should be used with the utmost caution with the 
sensative horse; but the sulky dull-head will readily respond to its in- 
fluence. It should always be used with gentleness when the horse will 
respect it. The illustrations (cut No. ^il), show in their order how it will 
appear when adjusted on the head of the horse. This also makes a good 
stallion bridle for service work. 

ONE FORM EXCELLENT TO TEACH THE HORSE TO HOLD 
HIS HEAD LOW DOWN. 
If you have a horse that is difficult to bridle, put this on in its first 
forfn, and instead of leaving the head loop just back of the ears, you will 



HORSE SBNSB. 



97 



pull it back on the neclcnear where the collar rests; you now have the 
means of inducing the horse to hold his head very low, while you put on 
the bridle. When you put your hand up towards his ears and he throws 
his head up you should pull on the rope, which will hurt his mouth up 
there, and by holding steadily on the rope, he will very soon drop his 



'"'"'''■^-^.o^^ 




Cut No. z^' 




Fig. 1. 



Pig. 2, 



Cut No. 2,7- 
YANKEE BRIDLE. 

head a little for relief, and if he will let you handle his ears, you should 
loosten the tension on the rope, and if he resists you and throws his 
head up again be sure to pull on the rope again, and hold steadily until 
he drops his head a little, when you can try to get him to let you press 
his head downwards and if he lets you depress it, you must be sure to let 
the rope loose or in other words show him, that when he holds his head 
high, it hurts his mouth, and v/hen he holds it low, he gets relief. It re- 



98 



HORSE SENSE. 



quires less time to accomplish the object than it does to tell how it is to 
be done. The three forms show about how it operates. Cut. No. 38. 

TEACHING THE HORSE TO HOLD THE HEAD LOW TO BE 

BRIDLED. 




Cut No. 38. 

USED FOR CONTROLLING THE HORSE WHILE TREATING 
A SORE NECK. 

This form is also excellent in treating a collar sore, on the top of 
the horse's neck, by drawing his head low and tying in a half hitch, as 
shown in the middle picture (training school cut, No. 38), and the horse 
has so little use of his head that you will have but little trouble in 
handling the sore neck, which is otherwise really dangerous, with a very 
sensitive horse. 

CAN BE USED TO ADVANTAGE FOR THE HARD BITTED 

HORSE. 

This form of the "Yankee" bridle to have the horse hold his head low, 
is also very useful in curing the "lugger," "puller," or "hard bitted" horse 
by putting it on over the bridle, before attaching the lines to the bit, 
and have it long enough to extend back to the vehicle, driving with only 
a gentle pressure on the driving bit, and as soon as the horse begins to 
bear hard on the bit, just pull on the rope, which will draw his nose in- 
wards, and for relief he will have to hold it in still farther; but just as 
soon as he slackens in his speed, or lets go of the bit, don't fail to 
loosen the tension on the rope. We have often cured the "lugger' in this 
way in a very few drives. But if the driver will encourage the horse 



HORSE SENSE. 99 

in bearing hard on the bit he will soon become a "lugger," as his 
mouth becomes numb and then he bears the harder. 

ALWAYS GIVE THE HORSE RELIEF AS SOON AS HE 
YIELDS TO PRESSURE. 

If you drive with a light hand and do not encourage the horse to 
bear on the bit, but bring to bear the pressure of the "Yankee" bridle, 
the horse will soon be willing to go as you wish. Please remem- 
ber, that if the horse will go with an easy rein, you should be willing 
to let him, and if he is bound to rush into the bit, that you will use the 
rope instead of the bit, and he will soon make up his mind that when- 
ever he determines to bear on the bit, that the rope is there to get in 
its work; otherwise he is not to be hurt. The principle always should 
be to give the horse no pain or inconvenience when he complies with 
your wishes, and when he does not, that there is a method and a de- 
vice that will get him into trouble, but it will all be made easy just as 
soon as he realizes its effect and will comply. 




Cut No. 39. 

TRAINING SCHOOL, OR THE DIFFERENT FORMS OF ROPE 

TO THE HEAD. 

Cut No. 39 embraces all the different forms completed, shown iir cuts 
Nos. 33 to 38 inclusive; all of which should be studied well by those who 
want to become proficient in handling the horse through the medium 
L.afC. 



100 



HORSE SENSE. 



of the mouth, which, for cheapness, convenience, raplditj- and practica- 
bility (when the natural law is complied with) excels any other method 
for all kinds of horses, that the author has had any experience with. 
Since a boy of ten years of age, twenty feet of manila rope — quarter- 
inch size — placed on the horse's head in a great variety of forms, has 
been the most satisfactory in management and education of all kinds and 
dispositions of anything yet invented for handling horses through the 
medium of the mouth. It can be used very gently with the sensitive 
animal, but, if at any time the horse becomes unruly, excited or badly 
frightened, by this means he can be easily controlled; and, if in the 
•excitement he gets pinched by the mouth rope, he must be relieved 
at the very first opportunity, which gives the horse confidence that he 
has a friend in his instructor, as well as a master of the situation. This 
cut, No. 39, is a half-tone photograph taken from the large canvas 
picture (painted by himself) that the author has used, as an illustra- 
tion in farmers' institute work for a great many years. 







r^f^Tid.- 



Cut No. 40. 

TEACHING THE HORSE TO GO IN A CIRCLE. 

The reason for- using this means in preference to a common bridle, 
as, first, it fits so neatly to the lips and mouth that the colt readily 
yields to its pressure, and second, it does not chafe and bruise the mouth 
as does an ordinary bit, and third, it is so much cheaper and more 
•easily adjusted, that it is far preferable to any bridle for handling either 
.colts or aged horses. 

After leading the horse from the stable, take a bow or buggy whip, 
and by rently tapping him on the hind parts, he will be induced to go 
arojtiiuJ in a small circle (at first) as shown in cut No. 40. 



HORSE SENSE. 



101 



MAKING ACQUAINTANCE WITH BOTH ENDS Of THE 
HORSE AT A DISTANCE. 

This exercise is equivalent to driving him single, and he can soon be 
taught to start and stop at the word. 

He should first be taught to go in only one direction until he fully 
understands what is wanted of him; then he may be turned in the 
opposite direction, but care must be taken that he does not become 
confused, or his instructor excited, as frequently mistakes and mis- 
understandings occur right here. Don't undertake too much in one 
day. Remember that one thing well learned is worth any number of 
things half learned. 

HANDLING THE LEGS OF THE MATURE HORSE WITH 

EASE. 

Take a long strap, like a tie-strap, with a ring or loop in one end, 
put it around the hind leg about the hock or above, run the end through 
the ring or loop and let it slip down between the fetlock and hoof, 
then with one hand holding the cord at the head, commence pulling 
gently on the strap at the foot. If the horse will yield to it, let it 
down again very soon, as seen in cut No. 41, and so on until the horse 
will allow any one of his legs to be handled without resistance. 




Cut No. 41. 

THE OLD FARMER SHOWING THE COLT HOW HE 

SHOULD YIELD UP HIS FEET. 

If he does resist the pressure of the strap on his leg, you should at 
that very instant, make a greater impression at his mouth with the 
rope, and he will soon realize that the one governs the actions of the 
other, and will permit the legs to be handled, if done gently, as that 
hurts less than at the mouth when he resists. This is a far better 
method than to try to take up the feet in the ordinay way the first time. 
In this way the horse has more freedom in the use of his legs and 
he must first learn that he is not to be struggled with, and then he 
readily yields his feet to your wish. 



CHAPTER XXII. 

COMBINATIONS OF THREE TO BE REMEMBERED. 

The following paragraphs are made up in threes to be easily remem- 
bored and to be adhered to or rejected as desired. 

THREE IMPORTANT LESSONS TO TEACH THE HORSE. 

Three cf the most valuable lessons to be taught the horse are: To 
start at the word of command, stop at the word of command, and to 
back at the work of command, all good and valuable. 

THREE ANNOYING TORTURES TO THE HORSE. 

Three of the most annoying and painful tortures to the horse are: 
The abuses of the whip, the suffering from harsh bits, and the painful 
pressure of badly fitted collars, neither of which should ever be per- 
mitted. 

THREE IMPORTANT CONDITIONS OF THE FEET. 

Three essential conditions of the feet are: Strong walls, elastic 
frog, and unmolested bars and sole, which can be had with care. 

THREE GREAT ENEMIES OF THE FEET. 

Three great enemies to good feet are: Long toe and heel calks, 
large nails driven high up in the foot, and the wall rasped off to fit 
the shoe, neither of which should be permitted. 

THREE POINTS IN THE CARE OF THE HORSE. 

Three valuable points in the care of the horses are: Water before 
feeding, and moderate quantities of grain and hay, given often and 
with regularity. Fifty years' experience proves this true. 

THREE IMPORTANT FACTORS IN KEEPING THE HORSE 
IN CONDITION. 
The horse, to work hard and keep in good condition, must be 
Started ofif in his work moderately, worked steadily, and never annoyed 
or fretted. Try this thoroughly and you will be convinced. 

THREE CONDITIONS THAT WEAR THE HORSE OUT 
RAPIDLY. 

To wear the horse out rapidly, and never have him in condition, is 
to feed irregularly (as to quantity or time), water whenever convenient, 
rush him into his work, and keep him on his nerve all the time. Don't 
try these. 



HORSE SENSE. 103 

THREE POINTS IN GETTING THE GOOD WILL OF THE 

HORSE. 

Three things to do to gain the good will and respect of the horse 
are: To feed frequently-small quantities of sugar from the hand, treat 
him kindly in his stall or at work, and always give him a good bed. 
If you don't do this, you may rue it. 

THREE THINGS THAT WILL CAUSE THE HORSE TO FEAR 

US. 

Three things to do if you want the horse to fear and disrespect you 
are: Slam the stable door every time you enter, speak in a loud, 
harsh voice, and give him a thrashing in the stall. It won't pay to try 
these. 

THREE THINGS TO SECURE SAFETY WITH THE HORSE. 

If you would have a safe horse, harness carefully, hitch securely, 
and drive with good judgment. Don't forget to do these things. 

THREE CONDITIONS FOR UNRELIABLE HORSES. 

If you prefer insecure, unreliable horses, harness carelessly, hitch 
indifferently, and allow them to start and stop when they please. It 
don't pay to be careless. 

THREE THINGS NECESSARY TO BE ABLE TO CATCH THE 
HORSE ANYWHERE. 

If you would have the horse easy to catch in the j-ard or pasture, 
when you reach him give him a little sugar, caress him, and put the 
bridle bit into his mouth with the utmost gentleness. If you do these 
he will come to you. 

THREE ESSENTIALS IN GROOMING THE HORSE. 

To groom the horse perfectly is to clean his coat thoroughly, 
brush his mane and tail with greatest care, and remove all accumulations 
irom the bottoms of his feet. Don't forget the feet. 

THREE CONDITIONS IN INDIFFERENT GROOMING. 

Tc groom the horse indififerently is to scratch him a little in one 
place and then in another, neglect the mane and tail, or pull the hair out 
with the curry-comb, and never even look at the bottoms of his feet. 
If you have any respect for your horse, don't do it this way. 

THREE CONDITIONS TO INSURE THE HORSE STANDING 
STILL WHEN HITCHING. 

If you would have the horse stand quietly while being hitched 
single, buckle and lake the lines in your hand,=^ull the shafts in place 
gently, and hitch tugs, hold-back straps and girth before attempting to 
start. This insures safety to begin with. 



104 HORSE SENSE. 

THREE THINGS THAT WILL MAKE THE HORSE RESTLESS 
WHILE BEING HITCHED. 

To make the horse afraid of the vehicle and restless while being 
hitched, is to leave him standing alone, go after the vehicle, and sur- 
prise him by dropping the shafts on his back, or punch him vi^ith them 
in the thighs or ribs. This kind of work never pays. 

THREE THINGS NECESSARY TO HAVE THE HORSE STAND 
AFTER HITCHING. 

To have the horse stand still after hitching, is to handle the lines 
very carefully, get into the vehicle quietly, and, when you are ready, 
give him the command to go in a gentle manner. Please remember 
these. 

THREE THINGS THAT WILL MAKE THE HORSE NERVOUS 
AFTER HITCHING. 

To have the horse impatient after hitching, is to handle the lines 
carelessly, get' into the vehicle in a hurry, and hit him a slap with the 
lines as you get in. Please don't do any of these things. 

THREE ESSENTIALS IN KEEPING THE HORSE SOUND 
AFTER A HEATED DRIVE. 

To keep the horse sound and limber after a heated drive, give him 
a few swallows of water often, keep him in motion while slowly coolir.j,. 
and then take good care of him in the stable. A faithful friend deserves, 
attention. 

THREE THINGS IN REGARD TO THE HORSE'S SHOULDERS 

AT WORK. 

Have perfect-fitting, clean collars, wash the shoulders at noon and 
night when at very hard work, and never use sweat-pads to fill up any 
deficiences of the collar. All explained in Chapter XXVII. 

THREE THINGS TO REMEMBER IN REGARD TO THIS 

BOOK. 

This book is prepared for those who are studying or want to study 
the horse from the standpoint of his nature; means and methods to 
demonstrate to the horse that man through these means and methods 
is stronger than he and can control him, and in consequence of man's 
superior manifestation of power, the horse is not to be injured, but, on 
the other hand, he is to be educated and treated in a most humane 
manner, for obedience and compliance to man's wishes. Reader, examine 
it carefully before condemning. It is written in the interest of the horse 
as well as his owner, and the hope of the author is, that both will share 
alike in its precepts. Man's inhumanity to the horse makes countless 
thousands sufifer. ** 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

USE AND ABUSE OF THE OVERHEAD CHECK-REIN. 

Very much has been written about the abuse of the over-head 
check-rein, but this subject, hke almost all others, has its friends and 
enemies; but the matter will be treated from both sides of the question 
believing that it has a valuable use as well as its abuse. 

THE "KIMB-LE JACKSON" CHECK-REIN. 

The over-head or over-draw check-rein was devised and first used by 
the old-time driver, Hiram Woodrufif, on the trotting horse Kimball 
Jackson, and was called for a long time the "Kimball Jackson" check- 
rein. It was used to prevent him from getting his head down when he 
made a brea-k,' which by the side-check rein, he could not be brought 
back to the trotting gait again. This "Kimball Jackson" check answered 
so good a purpose with a great many trotting and pacing horses, that 
its use has become almost universal. But the trainer knows that it 
is very hard on the horse to keep his head drawn up high for any great 
length of timCj and so he does not check him up high until he is 
ready to^ speed, him, and then as soon as he has gone the short distance 
of one or two miles, he does not fail to uncheck his charge and give 
relief to the horse. 

ITS USE WITH THE RACE-HORSE DRIVERS. 

This check was intended to be used on the track, where the surface 
is about as smooth as a floor, and only for a short time, without giving 
relief, by letting the horse have a chance to rest his tired neck. 

ITS ABUSE WITH THE ROAD RIDERS AND DRIVERS. 

The use of this check became so popular with the trotting horse- 
men that everybody thought it must be just the check to be used on 
every horse, and for any length of time, and today it has become almost 
universal with all classes; but the poor horse is a great sufferer on ac- 
count of it being drawn tight, and left for so long a time, in conse- 
quence of which we see the horse turning his head from side to side fcr 
relief whenever stopping, and if we go to him and uncheck him he will 
immediately put his head down near the ground for relief, just as we 
would put our head forward and rub the back of our neck if we had 
been looking up at the stars for two or three minutes. 

THE HORSE'S COMPLAINT OF HIS MASTER LEAVING HIM 
CHECKED TIGHT. 

THE STORY TOLD BY THE HORSE. 

Oh, cruel, unthinking, unfeeling, forgetful and neglectful master. If 
you could have realized the cramped feeling and pain you have caused 



106 



HORSE SENSE. 



me, by that cruel over-head check, while you left my head checked so 
high while you were gone for three hours, I am sure you would have 
either lengthened my check-rein or unchecked me entirely. I have been 
turning my head from side to side, to shorten the distance from my 
back to my numb mouth, from the pressure of the bit and check, with 
little or no relief; and had you not come to my relief, I am afraid I 
should have gone crazy and broke things all to pieces. I was becoming 
desperate, and am thankful that you have decided to put me into the 
barn, and not keep my head strained up here any longer. I think 
if you could be made to understand that the continual straining of my 
neck by that check into an unnatural position, and keeping it there for 
hours at a time, is shortening my days of usefulness (stock in trade) to 
you. If you would watch my actions carefully in going down hill, 
you could see that with my head pulled up so high it is very hard on 
my back, straining on my fore legs, jarring to my feet, and if the road 
is uneven it is one continual jerk on my tender mouth and kinks in 
my neck, or if there is much of a depression, in which T happen to step 
(as I cannot see where I am putting my feet) then it is a terrible wrench 
on my back, similar to you stepping off a descent in the dark when you 
least expect it. 



Cut No. 43. 



Cut No. 43. 





AS NATURE MADE US 
Cut No. 44. 



GRACE AND BEAUTY SPOILED 
Cut No. 45. 






APPLIED AS PUNISHMENT TO ' 

CRIMINALS. A LESSON IN CONTRAST. 

THE HORSE CALLS ON HIS MASTER TO OBSERVE CLOSE- 
LY THE ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Oh, master, look at these illustrations and then ask yourself how 
you would like to be so situated that you had to submit to being put 
into these unnatural positions, and kept there for hours without relief, 
and then you can have some little idea how your willing and faithful 
horse is suffering daily from your lack of sympathy and attention. 



HORSE SENSE. 107 

Kindly remember this lesson, and hereafter when you leave me lengthen 
out my check-rein or let me have the use of my head, and we will think 
more of each other. I will be a better horse for you and we will both 
enjoy each other more, and appreciate the comforts of life to a greater 
>degree. 

TO THE OWNERS OF FINE HORSES. 

If the city men who own good horses, as well as others, will take 
a walk through their streets, or even in samller towns, and observe 
the horses hitched along the walks v/ith their heads checked high by 
this cruel over-head check, and watch them turning their heads from 
side to side for relief, they will have some idea what a punishment it is, 
and how much unnecessary punishment the horse is enduring for the 
want of a little consideration for .his comfort. 

DEMAND FOR RELIEF IF OWNERS KNEW THE HORSE'S 

SUFFERINGS. 

If the owners of fine turnouts knew that their coachmen sitting 
on the seat of the carriage, whip in hand, ready to punish the horses 
every time they sought relief from that over-head check by turning their 
heads while standing in front of the residence where the ladies are 
making a fashionable call, there is but little doubt but positive instruc- 
tions would be issued that the driver should get down and nncheck 
the horses and entertain them while the guests were enjoying them- 
selves in the house, even if the call is not longer than ten or fifteen 
minutes. 

LADIES COULD NOT ENJOY CALLS IF THEY KNEW HOW 
MUCH THE HORSES SUFFER. 

If the ladies only realized what suffering their fine horses are endur- 
ing for their pleasure, a new order of arrangement would be enforced at 
once, and the horses would find that the driver would have to relieve 
their heads every time they stopped, or they could not enjoy their 
ride or visit. Ladies generally are far more sympathetic than men, 
and they can do much for the relief of the horse from the cruel over- 
head check-rein as well as in other respects. 

SERMON TO HORSE OWNERS. 

On a certain Sabbath a friend of the author was passing by a cer- 
tain church, before which were hitched many teams, the property of 
affluent Christians. The owners and their families were inside, listen- 
ing, no doubt, to the old, old story of loving kindness, man's brother- 
hood, consideration for the weak and lowly, protection to the helpless, 
etc. 

WHILE THE HORSE SUFFERED THEIR OWNERS WOR- 
SHIPPED. 

Those Christian horse-owners were probably unctiously seconding 
a prayer for the coming of that kingdom in which suffering would be 
unknown, and the milk of human kindness would ceaselessly flow; 



108 HORSE SENSE. 

they were probably contributing liberally to the work of lifting out of 
the darkness of barbarism and up into the shining light of modern 
civilization the benighted heathen of far of? lands. But all this time not 
a few of the horses were enduring a torture more refined and exquisite 
than any that barbarous heathens could invent. The heads of the poor 
brutes were held in cruelly unnatural positions, and their necks were 
heartlessly strained and tortured by that infamous device of fashion 
— the over-head check. If the Father is mindful of the sparrow that 
falls, should not His worshippers be mindful of the suffering of that 
noblest a«d best of the brute creation, the horse? 

SATISFACTION OF THE HORSES AND THEIR FRIEND IN 
TIME OF NEED. 

The friend unchecked the tortured horses, and for a moment en- 
joyed the keenest satisfaction in seeing the poor animals straighten,, 
stretch and twist their necks to get cords and muscles into their nor- 
mal positions once more. He fancied, too, that he saw thanks and 
gratitude in the eyes of the relieved semi-human beasts. He passed 
on, happier for what he had just done. 

SABBATH DAY'S RECORD WITH THE RECORDING ANGEL.. 

In auditing the final accounts of the inside worshippers and the 
outside philanthropist, that Sabbath day's record will appear on the 
books of the recording angel; but which, think you, will carry with it 
the larger credit, those of the disciples of empty form and ceremony 
inside, or that of he who was doing the Master's work outside? "In- 
as much as ye have done it unto the least of these ye have done it 
unto me." 

Note — Let this be a lesson to be remembered by all church-going 
people, and those who heed it can enjoy the service better by knowing 
that their horses are comfortable instead of suffering. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

IMPORTANCE OF A GOOD MOUTH FOR THE HORSE. 

We all agree that there is no point in connection with a horse that 
contributes so much to the pleasure, comfort and safety of either 
riding or driving him as what might be called a responsive mouth, or 
one which obeys promptly the slightest intimation from, rider or driver 
of restraint or guidance. A good mouth is, to a large extent, natural 
to a horse, so that some horses, if properly handled, can have their 
mouth made almost perfect. Such horses (of a team, as a rule) must 
liave their heads so related to one another that they can bend their 
heads upon their necks with ease. 

TENDER MOUTHS THE RESULT OF BAD HANDLING. 

If horses so formed have bad mouths, it is usually the result of 
irrational handling, unless they happen to be unduly nervous or unin- 
telligent animals. 

Jointed or snaiifle bits seldom injure the branches of the lower 
jaw, but sometimes press the cheeks against the anterior molars, and 
abrade the inner surface of the cheeks, especially if these molars are 
rough. Of the numerous ill results of soreness and discomfort in 
connection with the mouth, we may mention the following faults and 
troubles noticeable when riding or driving, viz.: 

TONGUE LOLLING, CROSSING THE JAWS, ETC. IS OFTEN 
FROM BAD MOUTHS. 

Crossing the jaws, keeping the mouth more or less open, lolling the 
tongue, slobbering, tossing the head to one side or the other, pulling 
out in double harness or crowding in, going cornerwise, sidelining, not 
going into the bit, carrying the head unsteadily, pulling, bearing down, 
balking, rearing, plunging or rushing when starting off (especially out 
of the stable), restlessness while standing, breaking their gait (or 
going unsteadily in harness when going within the horse's speed), 
mixing, hitching or hopping (either in front or behind), interfering; 
and, last but not least in importance, bridle lameness. If one con- 
siders for a moment, he can realize the extreme sensitiveness of these 
sores, and the excruciating pain a horse must suffer when facing the 
bit in the morning; so that it is not astonishing that some horses hang 
back when first taken out, and especially if they are predisposed to be- 
come balkers. The high-couraged horse, though he may hesitate at 
first, will, as soon as the part becomes numbed, begin to pull, and 



110 HORSE SENSE. 

show evidence of the discomfort he is suffering in the many ways al- 
ready described — such as crossing the jaws, going with the mouth open, 
head to one side, etc. 

IRREGULAR GAITED HORSES OFTEN CAUSED BY BAD 

MOUTHS. 

In addition to the discomfort and difficulty of driving a horse with 
a bad mouth, as well as the danger, especially in crowded streets, and 
the unsightliness of his carriage, as in turning the head in and out, 
etc., a bad mouth is apt to produce irregularity in the gait and impaired 
control of the legs. 

HITCHING AND HOBBLING OFTEN FORM BAD MOUTHS., 

What is called "hitching" or "hopping" (generaly of a hind leg),, 
although also due to weakness, too heavy a load, driving beyond speed,, 
heavy shoes, etc., is not infrequently due to tenderness or soreness o5 
the mouth, or to placing the bit too high in the mouth. There is no 
such thing as a congenital "hitcher." This habit is always the result of 
bad management. 

HIGH COURAGED HORSES SHOULD HAVE THE MOUTHS 
TREATED CAREFULLY. 

In high-couraged horses, whose mouths have become permanently 
injured from the bit, it is a difficult matter to overcome the habit; 
but if the mouth is allowed to heal thoroughly, the bit placed as low in 
it as the animal will stand and face it with a moderate degree of firm- 
ness, and not put his tongue over the bit, the fault can often be remedied. 

OFTEN THE UNSTEADY GAIT IS FROM A BAD MOUTH. 

Mixing the gait is usually attributed to want of balance, resulting from 
an improper distribution of weight in shoeing, and no doubt this is the 
case in some instances; but the cause should be more frequently at- 
tributed to the mouth. You will generally find that a horse inclined to 
mix in gait has an unsteady mouth. He does not take the bit with the 
necessary firmness, and keeps retracting his tongue, or putting his tongue 
over the bit, so that the pressure from the bit comes on the branches 
of the lower jaw, which always gives rise to irritability and a want of 
confidence in the animal's manner of going. 

HORSE'S GAIT CONTROLLED WITH COMFORT TO THE 

TONGUE. 

The tendency to mix the gait can usually be overcome by patient and 
persevering effort to get the tongue accustomed to pressure. The bit 
should be placed well up in the mouth, and be as comfortable a one as 
possible. Carelessness in the position in which the bit is placed in the 
horse's mouth often results in injury to that very sensitive part of his 
organization. 



HORSE SENSE. 



Ill 



BRIDLE BIT.S FOR DIFFERENT HORSES. 
A multitude of different bits have been devised for the control of 
the various and peculiar habits of our horses, most of which have been 
designed to punish and irritate the sensitive and responsive medmm of 
communication between the driver and the faithful horse. 




Cut No. 46. 
STRAIGHT BAR-BIT. 

Probably the straight bar-bit will come nearer being acceptable to the 
majority of horses than any other style of bit. One special feature of 
the straight bar-bit is to get one just the right length for the horse s 
mouth A. great many of these bits in use are too long, and occasion- 
ally we find one that is too short. The bit should be smooth and swelled 
at the ends, as shown in Cut No. 46— and they should always be kept 
clean. 




Cut No. 47. 
JOINTED OR SNAFFLE-BIT. 

Some horses work more agreeably in this character of bit than any 
other. It gives more room for the tongue and the pressure is. more 
on the jaws of the mouth than with the straight bit. Cut No. 47 repre- 
sents a very good pattern and one that many horses prefer to others. 
SEVERE BITS OFTEN INCREASE THE DIFFICULTY. 

Punishment bits are intended to overcome the mischief already done 
by some bungling, unthinking, unfeeling and careless handler; but we 
are sorry to say that, as a rule, they result in making a bad matter 

'^°'^^^' THE HORSE BETWEEN TWO FIRES. 

With the punishment by the whip at the rear end of the animal, and 
a harsh and mutilating bit at the front end, the horse is between two 
fires; and if he does not balk, rear, plunge, and run away, it is a wonder. 



112 



HORSE SENSE. 



CAREFULLY SELECT THE BRIDLE BIT ADAPTED TO THE 

HORSE. 

In the commencement of the harness education of the horse, the 
selection and adjustment of the bit is of the first importance. It should 
be of the smoothest character, and adapted to the width of the mouth. 
Many bits are too long, and a few too short. The bridle should be so 
fitted to the head as to let the bit rest easy in the mouth; not too 
long nor too short. The bridle should not be so long in the headstall, 
as to drop the bit so low down in the mouth that the rings of the bit 
will be drawn into the mouth; nor should it be so short as to draw the 
angles of the mouth upwards, and become a constant source of annoy- 
ance to the animal. 

The question of the proper bit for each horse is one that can only 
be determined by trial, and if several changes are necessary we should not 
be discouraged. Try, try again. 




Cut No. 48. 
TONGUE-LOLLING BIT. 

To the horse that is nervous about keeping his tongue under the bit 
and constantly trying to get it over the bit and let it hang 
out at one side of the mouth, this bit shown in Cut No. 48 is well adapted 
for the purpose, and is just as easy in the mouth as the straight bar-bit, 
except the annoyance of the plate, which should be kept loose on the 
bit by keeping perfectly clean. 

ATTENTION TO THE HORSE'S TEETH. 

The teeth of the equine, like the human race in civilized life, require 
close attention. Generally the difficulty in the human family is in cut- 
ting the first set of teeth, but with the horse the greatest trouble is in 
getting the second or permanent teeth; and as the horse's mouth is a 
dark and difficult place to examine, he is frequently left to suffer seri- 
ously before proper attention is given to his condition. 

YOUNG HORSES' MOUTHS REQUIRE TO BE LOOKED 
AFTER CAREFULLY. 

Young horses' mouths should be looked after frequently, to see that 
the temporary or milk teeth are shed or removed at the proper time, so 
that the permanent teeth m.ay come in regularly, and leave the grinding 



HORSE SENSE. 113 

surfaces of the teeth of both jaws coming together as they should for 
perfect mastication. 

THE CAPS OF THE TEMPORARY TEETH MAY NEED RE- 
MOVING. 

If the caps of the temporary teeth remain too long, they should be 
removed by the aid of forceps. 

THE INSIDE OF THE UPPER AND THE OUTSIDE OF THE 
LOWER TEETH WEAR. 

It will be observed that the upper jaw is wider than the under and, 
as a consequence, the greatest wear will be on the inner portions of the 
upper teeth and the outer of the lower, which often leaves rough, jagged 
edges of upper teeth next the cheeks (outside), and the same condition 
on the teeth of the lower jaw next the tongue (inside), and these pro- 
jections should be smoothed down by the use of the guarded mouth 
rasp. This is all that is generally needed to keep the horse's mouth and 
teeth in good condition. Anyone can do this work, as but little skill or 
labor is required. 

LONG TEETH SHOULD BE CUT OFF. AND DECAYED ONES 

EXTRACTED. 

Sometimes it will be found that the first or last molars are too long, 
and then it will be necessary to have a veterinarian cut them off, or dress 
them down level with the other teeth, so the horse can masticate his 
food properly. In all cases where the horse is "quidding" his food, 
slobbering, holding his head to one side while chewing, or giving any 
evidence that he is suffering pain, a careful examination should be made, 
and the trouble remedied at once. If a decayed or broken tooth is 
found, it should be taken out. If there are any too long, have them 
cut off, and all projections and sharp corners dressed down; but in no 
case have the grinding^ surfaces of the teeth interfered with, except as 
liere indicated. 

The horse's health and actions often depend on the condition of the 
teeth, consequently it is a good plan to have the mou'.h and teeth ex- 
amined at regular intervals, and if anything is wrong have it attended 
to in time by a skillful operator. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

'fitting the collar to the horse. 

The harness service of the horse is largely done by the shoulders, 
then from the vast amount of work he does for us, all will agree that he 
justly deserves a perfect fitting collar, and nothing short of this should 
satisfy any horse owner, and like a bridle-bit, perfectly adapted to the 
mouth of the horse, is a perfectly fitting collar to the neck and shoulders 
of the animal. 

THE COLLAR MANUFACTURER SOAKS THE LEATHER 
BEFORE STUFFING THE COLLAR. 

The collar manufacturer stufifs and shapes the collar over an inanimate 
form, intended to represent the shape of the horse's' neck in breadth and 
thickness, the material being thoroughly soaked, and as limp as a rag. 
It is then left to dry. When dry the collar is so firm and stifif, that in 
many cases it is impossible to buckle the hames tight enough to bring 
the collar to the shape of the horse's neck, and the shoulders are often 
compelled to adapt themselves to the collar, rather than the latter to the 
former. 

THE COLLAR SHOULD FIT THE NECK AND SHOULDERS 

CLOSELY. 

The necks and shoulders of no two horses are alike, and it is very 
seldom indeed that the shoulders of any one horse are exactly the same 
in size and form. The collar that will fit a horse in the early spring, 
when he is fat, will generally be found too large at harvest time, and the 
shoulder of the fat horse is different in form from what it is when he is 
thin in flesh; consequently, the importance of watching the adaptation of 
the collar to the shoulders. 

EVERY HORSE SHOULD HAVE HIS OWN COLLAR. 

Every horse should have his own collar, and it should always fit close 
up to the neck along its entire v/idth; never tight at the points of the 
shoulder and loose towards ihe top of the neck, nor the reverse. Al- 
ways have the hame-straps properly adjusted to suit the form of the 
horse's neck at the top and bottom, and always be absolutely sure that 
the lower hame-strap is buckled as tight as the thickness of the neck of 
the horse will permit, every time he is harnessed. 



HORSE SENSE. 



115 



ALMOST ALL DAMAGE DONE THE HORSE'S NECK AND 
SHOULDERS BY LARGE COLLARS. 

Loosely fitting collars and carelessness in adjustment of the hames 
do great mischief to our horses' shoulders. See Cut No. 49. 




Cut No. 49. 
A GOOD GENERAL FORM OF COLLAR. 

ADJUSTMENT OF THE HAME-TUG MUST BE MADE BY THE 

DRIVER. 

The adjustment of the hame-tugs. so as to bring the draught on the 
shoulder at the proper place, is also a very important matter that de- 
serves the closest attention. If the draught is too low, the movement 
of the shoulders in walking gives too much motion, backward and for- 
ward, to the collar, and is almost certain to cause soreness, both at the 
points of the shoulder and at the top of the neck; and if the draught is 
too high, the injury will be equally as great. There is just a proper 
place (according to the conformation of each and every horse — see cut 
No. 50) for the draught of the hame-tug, and the owner or handler should 
be observing enough to know where that is, as no rule can be given that 
will be sufificient for all horses; it must be left to the good judgment of 
those in authority. When the hame-tugs are just at the proper place there 
will be but very little motion at the top of the hames as the horse walks 
along; but when too low, there will be seen a weaving back and forth 
of the hames at the top, which shows that the draught is too near the 



116 



HORSE SENSE. 



point of the shoulders, and the collar is kept in a constant twist one way 
and the other, which is very injurious to the shoulders and top of the 
neck. This is generally the condition when the top of the neck and 
points of the shoulders are sore at the same time. 




Cut No. 50. 
ADJUSTMENT OF HAME TUG. 

Now, we have represented how the collar should fit the horse's 
shoulders, and also told you in what condition the collar is made; but 
have not yet told you outright just how to get a perfect fit for each and 
every horse, which must be done or you will have a right to feel that the 
subject is left almost where it was started. 

SOAK THE COLLARS IN WATER UNTIL THEY CAN BE 
MADE TO FIT THE NECK. 

The collar is first made over the inanimate form (to suit the taste of 
the manufacturer) while it is thoroughly wet, is it not then the most 
practical thing to select a collar of the size and general form best suited 
to the horse, put it into a vessel of water, let it remain over night, wipe 
oflf the surplus water in the morning, put the collar on the horse — new 
or old collar — and by means of the hame-straps draw the collar snugly to 
the sides of the horse's neck from top to bottom? 



HORSE SENSE. 117 

WHEN SOAKED, THE HORSE CAN ADAPT THE COLLAR TO 
HIS SHOULDER BY WORK. 

After the collar has been soaked and fitted to the neck of the horse, 
by means of the hame-straps, and hame-tugs properly adjusted, then 
work the horse moderately through the day, and the collar will be better 
fitted to that particular horse and to every inequality of his shoulders 
than the best expert in the whole country could do over an inanimate 
form. This is the easiest, the best, and the most perfect manner of 
fitting a collar that we have ever found, and dispenses with pads and 
sore shoulders if. well done. 

SOAK THOROUGHLY AS OFTEN AS THE COLLAR IS 
EOUND NOT TO FIT. 

If you have fitted collars to your horses by this method in the spring, 
when they were fat, and then worked them down thin in flesh, it will be 
necessary to soak the collars again and readjust them as before, and in 
this way you do not have to be at the expense of pads, which have a 
tendency to soften the shoulders rather than toughen them, and are also 
an addition to the harness that is entirely unnecessary if the collars are 
properly fitted. 

HAME-STRAPS SHOULD BE BUCKLED TIGHT. 

Always see to it that the hame-stramps are buckled tight enough to 
draw the collar close up to the sides of the horse's neck its entire width, 
so there is no. space whatever between the sides of the horse's neck and 
the collar. If the horse shrinks in flesh this matter of drawing the hame- 
straps up a little closer is of the utmost importance in preserving the 
good condition of the shoulders. 

THE SHOULDER AND COLLAR MUST BE KEPT CLEAN. 

The shoulders and the collar should be kept scrupulously clean where 
the horse is constantly at hard labor, and a weak solution of salt and 
water, and sometimes a decoction of white oak bark, as a wash for the 
shoulders, every night after the day's work is done, is found to be ex- 
cellent in practice. 

BADLY ADJUSTED COLLARS ONE GREAT CAUSE OF 
BALKY HORSES. 

There is but little question that the horse suffers more, and many of 
his bad habits are traceable to, the abuse of his mouth through the agency 
of torturing bits and badly fitting collars than from all else combined. 
Should not, therefore, all thinking, feeling, sympathizing humanity who^ 
have anything to do with horses, give these two subjects more careful 
attention in the future and thereby relieve much of the torture now ia- 
flicted upon man's best animal friend? 

NOTE. — If this little book serves but the one purpose of supplyfng- 
all horses that have to draw loads with perfectly fitting collars, the au- 
thor will feel fully compensated for the time and labor he has devoted to 
the subject of the horse and his friends. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

NATURAL FOOT OF THE HORSE AND HOW TO PRESERVE 

IT. 

The foot of the horse is one of the most important (and least under- 
stood) part of his organization. It should be of proportionate size to 
the animal. The wall should be more or less upright, smooth, thick and 
tough, about twice the length at the toe that it is at the heel (from the 
hair to the ground surface), and well spread at the heel. 

THE FROG AND SOLE NATURE'S PROTECTION OF THE 

FOOT. 

The sole should be concave, and provided with good strong bars 

(braces) to aid the frog in its elastic action. The frog (nature's heel 

cushion, jar protector and heel spreader) should be large, smooth and 
elastic. 

We here present cuts of the plantar (or bottom surface) of several 

feet, to show their difference in conformation and appearance to the 
careful observer. 





Sound, but. flax foot 



7fifi foot readz/ fyrthe s?ioe, showing 
fr-oQ and ftars as thei/ should, be fefi 

Cut No. 51. 
r^ROUND SURFACE OF TWO FAIRLY GOOD FEET. 

Fig. I shows the healthy, well-formed foot, ready for the fitting of the 
shoe without the use of the "butrass," or paring knife, leaving the frog, 



HORSE SENSE. 



119 



bars and sole in their natural condition, except just where the shoe bear- 
ing comes in contact with the foot. Cut. No. 51. 

Fig. 2 represents a sound but rather flat foot. The heel is well spread, 
and the frog is large and elastic, which is of the first importance to the 
free movement of any horse. Cut No. 51. 





Caniracted foot Bnd/i/ contmrted foot 

Cut No. 52. 
GROUND SURFACE OF TWO .CONTRACTED FEET. 

Fig. 3 shows the foot which has been shod with thick-keeled shoes, 
keeping the frog from coming in contact with the floor upon which the 
horse is forced to stand, or the hard road on which he must travel in his 
work. In this case the foot has been deprived of nature's cushion (the 
frog) for warding o£f a part of the jar to the column of bones above, and 
also nature's heel-spreader, the result of which is to bring the bearincj 
upon the wall of the foot altogether, which produces more or less i:i- 
flammation. and consequent absorption and contraction at the heel— the 
thinnest part of the wall. Cut No. 52. ; ' 





Swne foot. -^rau 



TemnderRd /bor 

after Haobner 



Cut No. 53. 
GROUND SPACE AND WALL OF FOUNDERED FOOT. 



120 HORSE SENSE. 

Fig. 4 represents the foot in a very badly contracted condition, from 
a similar cause, and to such a degree that it renders the horse compara- 
tively worthless in his work, to say nothing of the constant suffering he 
must endure from the violation of the general laws to which he has been 
subjected at the hands of his owner, groom or blacksmith. Cut No. 52. 

Figs. 5 and 6 show the sole (or plantar surface) and wall of the 
foundered foot. This, again, is no inherent fault of the horse, but is 
usually the result of bad handling, hard driving, standing when hot, ex- 
posed to draughts of air, drinking cold water when heated, etc. 

The front feet should be a trifle larger than the hind ones, and on 
no account should one be permitted to grow out of proportion to its 
mate. Cut No. 53. 

CARE IN THE EARLY LIFE OP THE HORSE IS A GREAT 

ADVANTAGE. 

Attention to the horse's feet should commence in very early colt- 
hood, and continue through life. The wall of the foot should be fre- 
quently rasped down even with the sole, and kept level, to maintain per- 
fectly sound feet and unblemished limbs. If the wall of the foot is kept 
shortened to its union with the sole there will be no necessity for cutting 
the bars, trimming the frog, or gouging out the sole; the horse will have 
a perfect bearing for the column of bones of every limb, stand firm, with 
his feet well under him, and move off unfalteringly. 

KEEP THE COLT'S FEET LEVEL. 

The colt's feet should be handled from the day of foaling, so that he 
will have no more hesitation in permitting his feet handled than to have 
the halter put upon his head; and as the horse without good feet is but a 
poor excuse at best, then why should not this m.ost important part of his 
anatomy not have the very: closest, attention, particularly when his feet 
can be trimmed as quickly as a good job of grooming can be given his 
body? 

TRIM THE COLT'S FEET OFTEN. 

The work of trimming should be repeated once every two weeks, and 
on no account postponed longer than a month. A little work upon the 
feet, and often, will be more readily submitted to by the colt or horse 
(and not so much dreaded by his owner) than if let go until the horse has 
almost forgotten that he ever had his feet trimmed; and the owner will 
not be worn out before the job is conipleted. 

The horse that has had his feet properly cared for in early life will re- 
quire less shoeing and be more profitable to his owner. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

SHOEING, AND ITS EFFECTS. 

The form, construction and physiology of the horse's foot certainly in- 
dicate he was designed by nature to go bare-foot, but if, owing to the 
uses to which we put him, and the dry, hard roads over which he is com- 
pelled to travel, the wali of the foot wears away faster than it grows, 
something should be done to protect that part of his anatomy; and this 
protection should be continued, both for the comfort of the horse and 
profit to the owner, just so long as he is required to perform such 
service, and no longer. 

THE UNSHOD HORSE SURER FOOTED THAN THE HORSE 
CONTINUALLY SHOD. 

That the unshod horse, with good feet and of mature years, that has 
never known what it is to wear iron upon his feet, is surer footed, sounder 
in his action, and more perfectly gaited than the horse that has had the 
benefit of the experience of the best horseshoers, there is no question. 
But as circumstances and conditions call for our assistance in the care 
of the animal that plays such an important part in our civilization, we 
must consider the best means possible for his protection and preserva- 
tion. 

REFERENCE TO OUR LATE FRIEND, DR. WII^LIAM DICK- 
SON. 

Owing to the high esteem in which we hold the sound judgment of 
our late lamented friend and co-worker of former years. Dr. William 
Dickson, of Litchfield, Minn., on this important subject, we shall make 
frequent reference to his report on this subject, too the bureau of animal 
industry, as our views were in such perfect accord. We feel it a just 
tribute he so fittingly merits. He says: 

HORSE SHOEING AN INJURY TO THE HORSES' FEET. 

"The system of horseshoeing as it obtains, even in the most skillful 
hands, is pregnant with mischief to the foot, which no one who is con- 
versant with the facts will deny. Each time a horse is shod, every time 
a nail is driven, means so much injury to the foot. The better the job, 
the less the injury. 

THE HORNY WALL, SOLE AND FROG SHOULD NOT BE 

MOLESTED. 
"The horny wall, and that portion of the sole which is in immediate 
contact with it, on which the shge should rest, are the only portions of 



122 



HORSE SENSE. 



the foot to be interfered with in preparing it for the shoe, and all the 
trimming that is necessary can, and ought to, be effected t)y means of 
tlio rasp. The frog and sole should, on no pretext whatever, be meddled 
with, save to the extent indicated. 

THE KNIFE, RASP AND LARGE NAILS ALL INJURE THE 
FEET OF THE HORSE. 

"As the work is too' often done, all over the country, the foot is 
pared to such an extent that it is robbed of its cushion, its natural ex- 
•i:ander; its lateral braces (bars) removed; its sole mangled, and its natural 
repair arrested; the hair-like fibres which make up the horny wall crushed 
ar.d deflected, and their nutritive function impeded by an unnecessary 
number of nails. Robbed by the rasp of its cortical layer of natural 
varnish, which retains the moisture secreted bj' nature, the strong walls 
become weakened, and the foot is in a very sorry plight indeed." 






Fig. 1. 



Fig. 3. 



Fig. 2. 

Cut No. 54. 

ILLUSTRATION OF GOOD AND BAD SHOEING. 

Fig. I, Cut No. 54, shows the foot well prepared and properly shod. 

Fig. 2, Cut No. 54, represents the wall cut down in front to make 
the foot fit the shoe. 

Fig. 3, Cut No. 54, is where the heels have been cut down and the 
toe allowed to grow entirely too long. One about as bad as the other. 

RESULTS OF GOOD AND BAD SHOEING. 

"Fig. I, Cut No. 51, shows the only parts which should be reduced 
when a foot is properly prepared for the shoe. Sufficient care is not al-' 
ways given to shortening the hoof, so that its angle should conform ex- 
actly to the inclination of the limb. It would be misleading to lay down 
any arbitrary degree of obliquity." 

THE CHARACTER OF THE WORKMAN OF VITAL IMPORT- 
ANCE. 

Too much importance cannot possibly be attached by the workman 
to this and the succeeding step, namely, leveling the ground surface of 
the foot, as the slightest departure from absolute exactitude here renders 
whatever amount of care he may devote to the completion of his work 
worse than useless. 



HORSE SENSE. 



123 



THE SHOE SHOULD BE AS LIGHT AND NARROW AS POS- 
SIBLE AT THE HEEL. 
"The shoe should be as light as the weight of the animal and the 
nature of the work he is expected to perform will admit of, as the legiti- 
mate mission of the shoe is to prevent undue wear of the walls, and a 
light shoe will do this quite as well as a heavy one. 

■ "The upper surface of the shoe (the part that comes in contact with 
the foot) should be perfectly level, and should not be beveled in nor out." 

THE SHOE MUST BE MADE TO FIT THE FOOT AND NOT 
THE FOOT TO THE SHOE. 
"It would seem to be unnecessary to say that the shoe should be so 
shaped as to conform to the natural tread of the foot, yet a very common 
practice obtains of using a shoe of uniform shape (often less in circum- 
ference, if such a term is. permissible, than the foot on which it is to be 
nailed), and then rasping down the foot to fit it, thereby robbing the 
walls of their natural covering, and permitting the escape of the mois- 
ture of the foot by evaporation. Disintegration follows, and then the 
wonder is why the foot will not retain a shoe as in the beginning! If 
the shoe fitted as it ought to do, the use of the rasp would be next to 
unnecessary, except, possibly, a very little under the clinches, and a 
small gouge would be better for that purpose." 




Pagbt riUwg 



Mx>ri/j ruUrip 

Cut No. 55. 
RIGHT ANGLE, BUT BOTH RIGHT AND WRONG FITTING. 

Figs. 7 and 8, Cut No. 55, show correct and incorrect fitting, Fig. 7 
"being right and Fig. 8 wrong. A badly fitting shoe is to the horse as 



124 HORSE SENSE. 

painful as a tight fitting boot is to his owner, and under no circum- 
stances should shoes be permitted to remain on more than a month, or 
five weeks at the outside, and some require to be reshod more frequently. 

SMALL SIZED NAILS AND FEWER OF THEM THE BETTER. 

"The nails should be of the smallest size and of the fewest number to 
insure the retention of the shoe the required length of time, and this is a 
rule that should never be departed from. If the foot has been properly 
leveled, it is surprising how few nails will hold the shoe in place, and as 
long as is required; but if the fitting has been carelessly done, it will be 
equally surprising how shot a time is required to loosen the clinches and 
the shoe. 

"Two of the commonest errors in shoeing are the use of too many 
nails, and these of an altogether unnecessary size, and then driving them 
too high up into the walls." 

LONG SHOES AND WIDE HEELS A DECIDED DISADVAN- 
TAGE. 

Too many blacksmiths make what is called the "over heeled" shoes; 
that is, shoes with straight heels or calks wide apart and some distance; 
back of the heel of the foot as well as at the sides near the heel, and 
their reasons for so doing is always in error. 

NATURE MAKES NO MISTAKES IN RELATION TO THE 
FOOT OF THE HORSE. 

Nature makes no mistakes. If the foot had needed the rear support 
they claim for it, the coit would have been foaled with that extension of 
the foot at the heel. And we want to imitate nature all we possibly 
can in relation to the foot of the horse, especially at and near the heel. 
Everybody seems to be afraid of injury to the horse's foot if not pro- 
tected in some way, and this very so-called protection is doing more 
harm than could possibly be counted on if left in its natural form. Who 
ever saw corns or quarter-cracks in connection with the foot that had 
never been shod? 

THE CHARLIER SHOE, OR TIP. 

M. Charlier, of Paris, France, some years ago invented the tip, or 
short shoe, which bears his name, and Joseph Cairn Simpson (the well- 
known horseman of California), as well as many others, have used 
modifications of this shoe to their entire satisfaction. 

In preparing the foot for the shoe and sole, the frog and bars are 
left, as they ought to be, absolutely untouched, and a groove is cut, by 
means of a knife specially designed for the purpose, in the wall, not high 
enough to reach above the sole level and the thickness of the wall in 
depth. Into this groove a narrow band of iron is sunk, and nailed to 
the foot by means of four to six conical-headed nails, the heads being 
countersunk in the shoe. 



HORSE SENSE. 



125 



ADVANTAGES OF THE TIP OVER THE FULL SHOE. 

The advantage of this method of shoeing is that the frog, bars and 
the greater portion of the sole come to the ground exactly as if the foot 
were unshod, and one and all participating in weight-bearing, as it was 
obviously intended they should, while the wall is protected from wear by 
the small rim of iron let into its ground surface. When the foot is shod 
in this manner, the frog obtains pressure to the extent contemplated by 
nature, and maintains all of its elastic action almost to the same extent 
as ihe unshod foot. Cut No. 56. Fig. 9 is a side view of the foot pre- 
pared for the tip, or short shoe. Fig. 10 represents the bottom of the 
foot with the tip attached, and Fig. 11 shows again a side view of the 
appearance of the foot after being shod. 

REPRESENTATIONS OF THE CHARLIER TIP OR SHORT 

SHOE. 





Plu/iUJr fur face, of f'oor. 
■ in(/i Ch/irher tip 




I-Obt prepared for Ouirher >^j p^ot shod unlh CharUnr Up 

Cut No. 56. 

NEVER MOLEST THE NATURAL COATING OF THE HORN 

OF THE FOOT. 

"In its natural state the entire hoof, from the coronet to the sole level, 
is covered by a fine coating of natural varnish, thickest at the upper 



126 HORSE SENSE. 

margin and gradually becoming thinner as it descends. In a very dry- 
atmosphere, like ours, it is of paramount importance that this beautiful 
shield should be preserved and fostered, and no name is bad enough for 
a senseless custom which, to serve no good purpose, robs the foot of a 
necessary protection which is beyond the power of art to imitate or 
replace." 

MANNER OF SHOEING IN WINTER WHEN IT IS A NECES- 
SITY. 

Winter shoeing in this climate is almost a necessity, where heavy 
loads are to be drawn over wet, slippery or icy roads, but it should be re- 
membered that the horse accustomed to going barefoot will maintain his 
footing better from the use of the elastic frog and bars of the foot than 
the horse not sharp shod. The shorter, smaller and sharper the calks 
of the shoe, sufficient for the catch, the better and safer for the horse. 
Long, heavy ties and calks on the shoe puts the horse up on stilts, and as 
they wear unever, more or less trouble ensues. 

THE HORN OF THE FOOT AFFECTED BY SHOEING. 

The horse that has worn shoes for a good long time is very apt to go 
lame without their protection. The growth of horn has been dimin- 
ished and the material supplied for that purpose of an inferior char- 
acter, and as the horn becomes harder (not tough) by shoeing, it is more 
rapidly worn away on hard roads. The horn of the natural unshod foot 
is easily cut with knife, but does not work with the rasp as well as the 
hard foot of the horse that wears shoes. The former is elastic and as 
pliable as a piece of whalebone, the latter is brittle and about as lifeless 
as the hoof of a dead horse, and soaking tubs nor poultices or oils will 
bring back the natural condition. The thousands of minute tubes that 
carry nourishment to the entire wall have been cut off or marred by the 
knife and nails. 

CONTRACTED FEET THE RESULT OF BAD SHOEING. 

As before stated, the outside of the horn is covered with an impervious 
enamel and retains the moisture of the foot when unmolested by the 
rasp, in trying to make what is called a finished job of the shoeing. No 
wonder we behold such a vast array of contracted feet. When we see 
that the natural unshod foot is strong and elastic, with a well developed 
and elastic frog of wedgcd-shaped form, which prevents contraction, 
while a sole that sheds off its old growth as fast as the new is formed, 
then why In the name of common sense should we deliberately go to 
work and rob the outside protection that nature has so wisely provided? 

Nature's "buffer"- — cushion for the foot — to ward off a part of the jar 
to the column of bones above, as well as to the foot itself, should always 
come in contact with the ground, whether the horse is shod or not, and 
on no account should the smith be permitted to trim and carve at this 
important elastic body, the frog. It is impossible in a work of this size 
and character to rake up the different phases and styles of the shoeing 
question, much cf which is yet in its experimental stages. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

FEEDING HORSES. 

The amount of food given should be regulated by the size and breed 
of the animal, and by the amount and kind of work he is required to do. 
The horse has a small stomach in proportion to his size; hence, frequent 
feeding when under hard work is necessary. 
THE HORSE SUFFERS MORE FROM HUNGER THAN MAN. 

The human stomach can bear hunger far better than that of the 
horse If when driving on a journey you feel hungry, you may be sure 
your horse has felt it before you did, and is needing his feed more than 

you. , 1 

Oats and hav are the ideal horse foods of our country, but because 
they are the best is no reason why they should be exclusively used. 
VARIETY OF FEEDS IS AS MUCH RELISHED BY THE 
HORSE AS BY MAN. 

Variety is often much relished by the horse, and, with this variety, 
cheapness and economy may be introduced. Good timothy hay, early cut 
and well cured, is the best hay for horses. Timothy hay is heavier than 
that of other grasses, and contains a larger quantity of nutritive matter 
in -i small bulk. If left till it be over-ripe, it becomes hard and woody. 
It is more digestible when cut rather on the green side, and makes better 
horse feed. 

FARMERS, AS A RULE, FEED TOO MUCH HAY. 

Many farmers feed far too much hay to their horses. They might 
very well take a few lessons in this matter from the livery men, who 
find that their horses do better and keep healthier on a small allowance 

""^ ^^^' AMOUNT OF HAY FED TO RACE HORSES. 

Rase horses and others, in large stables, are fed on six to eight 
pounds of hay and from fifteen to twenty pounds of the best oats per 
day and, if needed, a bran mash once a week,-one-third of the hay after 
exercise in the morning, the balance at night, and the oats fed at four 
feeds For the work horse, more hay is given, up to ten pounds per day 
(six pounds loose and four pounds cut), and mixed with his oats, 
sixteen to eighteen pounds. Any farmer can see how much this differs 
from his feeding, and yet these horses are required to do hard work and 
make sudden exertions, taxing all their powers. 



12S HORSE SENSE. 

HORSES KEPT CONTINUOUSLY IN THE STABLE MUST BE 
FED WITH CARE. 

When horses are in the stable much of the time, the feeding needs 
to be carefully managed. Sv/ede turnips (rutabagas) are relished by 
horses, and seem better food for them than the carrot. They do well on 
roots when idle or at moderate work. 

HORSES DO NOT NEED THEIR FOOD COOKED. 

Cooking food for horses has not been found generally profitable. 
Careful experiments made years ago showed that horses do better on 
raw food. Crushed or ground oats are much used. Some horses have 
a tendency to bolt their feed half chewed, and some of the grain is 
voided whole in these cases. Grinding helps any such tendency. 

RATIONS FOR HORSES IN LONDON. 

In England some of the large companies, which work a great many 
horses, give mixed food, and use considerable quantities of American 
corn. The North Metropolitan Company (London) allows for each 
horse per day about the following rations: Corn, nine pounds; oats, 
seven pounds; peas, one pound; beans, one pound; hay, seven pounds; 
•cut straw, three pounds; total, twenty-eight pounds. The South London 
Tramway Company gives corn, seven pounds; oats, seven pounds; beans, 
one pound; hay, eleven pounds; straw, three pounds; total, twenty-nine 
pounds. 

FEEDING BRITISH CAVALRY HORSES. 

That which needs special attention by our feeders is the quantity of 
hay fed and the desirability of using a small quantity of straw in the 
ration. British cavalry horses are allowed ten pounds of oats and twelve 
pounds of hay as an ordinary feed. If out on active service, the oats are 
increased to fifteen pounds. In private stables and on the farm it is 
better to give greater variety to the food, and the wise feeder will be 
guided by the season and the price of foods, in keeping his animals in 
the best of health at the least expense., 

LONDON TRAM AND BUS COMPANY FEED THEIR HORSES 

SEVEN TIMES A DAY. 

The London County Council Tram and Bus management employs 
about 4,000 carefully-selected, stout, thick, muscular horses, weighing 
1,150 to 1,250 pounds. These horses are fed as follows: Thirteen pounds 
of roughage per day, consisting of eleven and a half pounds of hay and 
one and a half pounds of straw, fourteen pounds of concentrates or grain, 
consisting of eight pounds of corn, four pounds of oats and two pounds 
of peas, all ground and mixed together. All hay and straw is cut, and 
all grain is fed mixed with cut hay or straw and moistened. The horses 
are fed seven times each day, extending from 5 a. m. to 8 p. m. Water 
is given always before every feed, and every time they come in from 
work. Rock salt is accessible at all times. The horses stand either on 
stone or vitrified brick floors, and are never permitted to lie down except 



to HORSE SENSE. 129 

during the night, when the stalls are well bedded. During the day the 
bedding is all put forward under the manger. The average period of 
service at very exacting labor is about seven years. The stables contain 
from loo to 200 horses each, located in various parts of the city, to be 
convenient to the numerous sections of the bus and tram lines. The 
manager travels over 10,000 miles a year in making his daily rounds. 

MORTALITY FROM ALL CAUSES ONE-HALF OF ONE PER 

CENT. 

The average percentage of loss from all causes with this company is 
one-half of one per cent annually, which is as low as could be expected 
under anj'^ regime. 

FEEDS AND FEEDING. 

Proper feeds — balanced rations — in relation to work or exercise is of 
the utmost importance in the care, development and health of our horses. 

MUSCLE MAKING FOOD AND EXERCISE FOR THE COLTS. 

The young growing animals need plenty of muscle and bone-making 
food, such as oats, bran, oil meal, beans, peas, clover, hay, etc., but they 
must have exercise in proportion to the food consumed. And it is im- 
possible to grow a good strong, useful horse without plenty of exercise. 
The feed and exercise must always be considered together and the young 
growing animal should have plenty of both. 

AFTER MATURITY, THE HORSE IS FED FOR HIS WORK 
AND MAINTENANCE. 

After the horse is matured, then he is to be fed in proportion to the 
work to be performed, over and above that of maintenance. Like our- 
selves who eat our breakfast, dinner and supper and weigh the same, he 
is to be considered in the same light. If he is idle, we should feed him 
just enough to supply the waste material of the body, and no more, un- 
less we wish to increase his weight, and this must be done carefully, or 
derangements of the digestion are likely to occur. 

IDLENESS AND FAT, GREAT ENEMIES TO HORSES. 
We here wish to caution every horseman who is working his horses 
hard and then suddenly gives them a period of idleness, that the grain 
ration should be cut down at least one half, and oftimes more would be 
better for the welfare of the animal. Probably more ailments of the 
horse are traceable to this, and the irregular hours of feeding than all 
else combined. Azaturia, and a host of other troubles are almost directly 
traceable to this one cause of high feeding and idleness— a waste of the 
food material, and too often the horse. It is a standing saying with the 
Arabs that "Rest and fat are the greatest enemies of the horse." 

DIFFERENT HORSES NEED DIFFERENT FEEDS AND 

AMOUNTS. 

Of course, there is a difference in horses; some will require more feed 
than others, and some will consume much more than they can digest and 



130 HORSE SENSE. 

assimilate. Here is where the "art" of feeding comes in. How often 
we have seen it exemplified. 

ONE MAN WILL WORK FLESH OFF AND ANOTHER WILL 
WORK IT ON HORSES. 

One man will take a team thin in flesh, work it hard and have the 
horses gain in flesh on much less feed than they had before. This shows 
that it is not so much the amount of feed given, as it is the properly 
balanced ration and the regularity with which they were fed, together 
with the manner of handling. Another will take the team in the height 
of condition of flesh and fit for their work, and in a short time the 
horses are seen to be dull and losing flesh, notwithstanding they, had 
all the grain and hay they could consume. 

RATION FOR THE WEANLING COLT, THE YEARLING, TWO 
AND THREE YEARS OLD. 

Below we give a number of "Rations" in relation to the character of 
animal and work required, per day, for trotting bred stock: 

Weanling Colt. — Two to three pounds of oats. Hay all it will eat. 

Yearling Colt. — Four to five pounds of oats. Hay all it will eat. 

Two-yearColt. — Six to seven pounds of oats. Hay all it will eat. 

Three-year Colt in Training. — Nine to twelve pounds of oats. Hay 
somewhat limited. 

Horse in Races. — Ten to fourteen pounds of oats. Hay somewhat 
limited. 

Road Horse. — Eight to ten pounds of oats. Hay, ten to twelve 
pounds. 

Carriage Horse. — Ten to twelve pounds of oats. Hay, twelve to 
fourteen pounds. 

Farm Horse at Heavy Work.^Twelve to fourteen pounds of oats, 
three pounds of corn. Hay, thirteen to fifteen pounds. 

Draft Horse at Heavy Work. — Fourteen to sixteen pounds of oats, 
five pounds of corn. Hay, sixteen to eighteen pounds. 

VALUE OF BRAN AND BRAN-MASHES FOR HORSES. 

The addition to the above, of one to five pounds of bran per day 
considering the animal, the condition of the bowels and the character 
of the hay, will often prove very advantageous. An occasional bran- 
mash for any indications of a feverish condition must not be neglected. 

The question of feeding is largely a matter of regularity and close ob- 
servation of conditions and food stufif. 

Cooked food is not to be thought of, except m case of sickness or 
the old and comparatively toothless animals. The horse has both a good 
mill, and digestive apparatus when properly fed and handled. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

FATTENING HORSES FOR MARKET. 

It has become quite common to stall-feed horses for the market, very- 
much as cattle are prepared, and it is said "fat covers up a multitude of 
defects," to the buyer. 

Mr. H. W. Brattell, of Iowa, has given the subject of fattening horses 
close attention, and furnishes the results of his observations as follows: 

HORSES FED GRAIN FIVE TIMES PER DAY. 

"They are put in the barn and fed gradually, as great care must be 
taken for a few days to avoid colic. It seems most profitable to feed 
grain about five times per day, due to the fact that, the stomach of a 
horse being proportionately smaller than the stomach of a cow, he needs 
his teed in smaller quantities, or as the old quotation is, 'Little and often.' 
The hay, of course, they have access to at any time, by filling the racks 
twice a day. They also are given all the water they will drink, twice a 
day. 

CORN A GREAT FACTOR IN FATTENING HORSES. 

"Corn is given at 5 a. m., then water at 7; at 9 fill all the hayracks 
and give oats and bran, the proportion being two-thirds bran and one- 
third oats. Then at 12 feed corn again; at 3 p. m. feed oats and bran, 
and also refill the hayracks. At 4 p. m. give second watering, and at 6 
the last feed of corn is given. The proportion for each horse when upon 
full feed is as follows: Corn, from ten to fourteen ears at each feed, oats 
"and bran, about three quarts per feed. 

GLAUBER SALTS SUBSTITUTED FOR EXERCISE. 

Another point of great importance comes into consideration where 
a large unmber of horses are fed: It is almost impossible to give them 
all sufBcient exercise, and so, as a rule, they are given no exercise from 
the time they are put in the barn until a few days before they are to be 
shipped. So something must be given as a substitute for the exercise 
in order to keep the blood in good order, or else "stocked" legs will be 
one of the first troubles. Glauber salts will in most cases prevent this 
trouble, and, mixed with the oats and bran, the horses will eat them 
quite readily. These salts are fed about twice per week, at equal inter- 
vals, giving about one-half or three-fourths of a pint at each feed. These 
salts can be bought very cheap by having 5rour druggist order them for 
you at wholesale prices. They are not nearly so strong as the epsom 
salts, but they have a very desirable and cooling effect upon the blood. 



132 HORSE SENSE. 

OIL-MEAL IS FED TO SOFTEN THE SKIN. 

"Oil-meal may also be given to good advantage, as it aids greatly 
in putting on flesh, and also gives the skin a soft and mellow touch. All 
mangers and feed boxes should be cleaned out twice a day, and the cobs 
and other refuse thrown out behind the horses and taken out with the 
manure. By all means give the horses sufficient time for their stomachs 
to rest, and this can be done by giving the first feed at 5 in the morning 
and the last between 6 and 7 at night. 

FLOATING TFIE TEETH, THAT HORSES MAY GRIND THEIR 

FEED WELL. 

Another point that ought to be mentioned is floating the teeth, 
when the horses are put in, and before commencing to feed them. It 
is best to get a veterinarian to do this, as he has the proper instruments, 
and where there are so many to do, it can be done more rapidly. Float- 
ing the teeth is a point which a great many people overlook, and is in 
many instances the real cause of a horse being out of condition. When 
a horse has a number of sharp projections on his teeth, the gums become 
raw and sore, so that he does not masticate his feed thoroughly, and con- 
sequently indigestion often results, and the horse runs down in condi- 
tion. In a load of horses shipped from Kansas it was found upon exam- 
ination that a large number of them had sharp projections on the outer 
edge of the grinders, and their mouths were in such a condition that a 
person would wonder how they could eat at all; but after they were 
floated down quite a marked change was soon noticed. I think it will 
pay better to put the horses' teeth in shape, and let them do their own 
grinding, than it will to grind the grain for them. 

GAINED AS HIGH AS FIVE AND A HALF POUNDS WEIGHT 

PER DAY. 

"When horses are fed in this manner, good gains are generally real- 
ized. In one instance a horse fed in this manner made a gain of five 
and one-half pounds per day for a period of fifty days, or in 100 days he 
gained 550 pounds. And in several instances, with as many as a dozen 
head, a gain of three and one-third pounds per day for a period of ninety 
days was obtained. 

IS THIS STUFFING PROCESS GENERALLY OF ADVANTAGE? 

This stuffing without exercise may enable the feeder to get the horse 
in condition to go onto the market for sale at a good profit for his 
feed and trouble, but how will it be with the buyer who' wants to put the 
horse (so prepared) at hard work? 

FEEDING WORK HORSES. 

This is a subject in which every horseman is, or should be, particu- 
larly interested; but it is a subject about which there is a great diver- 
sity of opinion and theory, much of which is unworthy of considera- 
tion. That there is a right way of feeding is demonstrated both in this 



* BORSB SSNSB. 133 

country and in Europe, where large numbers of horses are kept for 
hard work, fed regularly by close observers, whose business it is to do 
the best for the horses, their work and their owners. 

WATER THE WORK HORSES BEFORE FEEDING. 

When it is understood that the stomach of the horse can contain 
pnly from three to three and one-half gallons, then it becomes apparent 
that we must study the best methods of keeping him in health and 
strength for the labor required of him, largely in the manner in which 
we water and feed him. It is always best to water some time before 
feeding. 

TOO MANY HORSES ARE OVER-FED. 

A great proportion ,of our horses are over-fed, many under-fed, and 
but few out of the whole that are fed to the advantage of the horse and 
owner. Horses are frequently fed as much as thirty or forty pounds 
of hay in twenty-four hours, when twelve to twenty pounds is enough 
for the majority of horses that are working hard; and as much as a 
bushel, and sometimes more, of grain is given daily to each horse, when 
one-half of the amount would be ample. 

THE FEEDING SHOULD ACCORD WITH CONDITIONS. 

One of the greatest and most frequent mistakes is in over-feeding 
our horses, especially when idle or exhausted from hard work. It re- 
quires vital energy to digest a heavy feed, as well as to perform hard 
work, and when the horse is very tired it is bad practice to give him 
a large feed until he is rested. 

WORKING HORSES SHOULD BE FED LESS WHEN IDLE. 

It is also a great mistake to feed our horses the same amount of 
grain when idle for a few days (especially if in good flesh), after regular 
work or exercise, as this is the very cause of that dread disease called 
azaturia, which almost always attacks the best conditioned horse, and 
if it does not kill him, it will deprive his owner of his use for a con- 
siderable time. 

NINTY PER CENT OF ACUTE SICKNESS THE RESULT OF 
OVER-FEEDING. 

It is of the utmost importance that we study carefully the best 
methods of feeding our horses when at hard work, when idle, and 
during the winter when they are but little used; thereby saving the 
frequent calls of the veterinarian, drug bills and condition powders. It 
is the almost universal statement of veterinarians, that ninety per cent 
of the acute cases that they are called to treat is caused from over-feed- 
ing. 

VALUE OF A BRAN MASH. 

If the horses cannot have green grass once or twice a week (na- 
ture's great regulator), they should have a bran mash instead. But a s 
hired help will often leave enough mash in the tub or manger to fer- 



134 HORSE SENSE. 

■ ment, we have found that dry bran, mixed with the oats and corn, 
gives excellent results and protects against dangers that come from feed- 
ing stale or musty mash. 

AN EXPERIMENT WITH OMNIBUS HORSES. 

Some years ago an experiment was made by the London Omnibus 
Comapny on 6,000 horses, to test the relative value between cut hay 
and ground grain and whole grain and hay. They first divided the 
horses, and 3,000 were fed the ground grain and cut hay, and the other 
3,000 were fed the whole grain and hay, giving the latter nineteen pounds 
of oats and thirteen pounds of hay daily, and the others were fed six- 
teen pounds ground oats, seven and one-half pounds cut hay, and two 
and one-half pounds cut straw. The first lot of horses got thirty-two 
pounds, each, daily, and the latter only twenty-six pounds all told, and 
yet they kept up well in flesh and stood their work equally well with the 
former. 

SAVINGS IN ECONOMIC FEEDING. 

The above system would make a saving of six pounds on each 
horse daily, and counting this worth in that market five cents, there 
would be a saving of $300 per day on the 6,000 horses. 

AN EXPERIMENT WITH AHLL PIORSES. 
Another experiment was made with heavy mill horses, by wetting 
the cut hay and thoroughly soaking it for twelve hours before feeding, 
mixing the ground feed with the wet cut hay just before feeding. 

JUST THE RIGHT QUANTITY AND QUALITY OF FEED 
SHOULD BE STUDIED. 
In the above, the ration for each horse, to start with, was four 
pounds dry cut hay, five pounds ground oats and barley, and a half 
pound of brain, night and morning, and four pounds dry whole oats 
at noon, without hay. This proved hardly sufficient for the large horses 
and their heavy work, and it was afterwards incerased to five pounds 
hay, five pounds ground grain and a half pound of brain, night and 
morning, and eight pounds oats, without hay, at noon, to the perfect sat- 
isfaction of the owners of the horses and ample feed for the largest 
horses doing the heaviest work. 

HORSES CAN BE WEEL OR MADE SICK BY FEEDS AND 

FEEDING. 
The above experiment proved to be a saving of ten pounds of hay 
and six pounds of grain daily to each horse, over the old whole grain 
and hay method, besides under the old system many horses were sick 
with colic and inflammation of the stomach and bowels, and for years 
a sick horse has not been seen, since the new system has been 
adopted. We would say, however, that no fixed and definite rules can 
be laid down for feeding all horses, but by careful attention to the man- 
ner in which they eat and the condition of the bowels, every farmer 
may become quite a master of the art of feeding. 



HORSE SENSE. 



135 



METHOD OF- FEEDING THE LITTLE COLTS. 

When the pasture gets short during the dry weather of summer, 
both mares and colts shrink in flesh unless something is done for them. 
It is a good time to get the little colts to eating grain, and we here 
show a practical method in the picture of accomplishing the desired 
object with little or no trouble. 

FEED THE LITTLE COLTS GRAIN IN A SMALL YARD BY 

THEMSELVES. 

Fence in a small yard or pen with one rail or plank on each side, 
high enough for the colts to run under, and still high enough so the 
mares will not get over. Put a box or trough in the center of this yard 
and place some grain in, it, and the colts will soon get there, and learn 
•to eat, by having access to this place every time the stock comes to the 
lot. In this manner the little colts are kept growing, and when weaning 
time comes they are accustomed to grain feeding, and will keep on 
growing with scarcely any falling off. See Cut No. 57. 




IN^^I^ »>»*"* 






Cut No. 57. 
FEEDING YARD FOR COLTS. 



136 HORSE SENSE. 

FEEDING COLTS. 

There is no more important subject in relation to the future use- 
fulness of the horse than his growth, which is largely dependent on the 
feed he gets after weaning time. 

GROW THE FRAME-WORK OF THE COLTS FIRST. 

Bone and muscle-making food is the most essential element re- 
quired, and one or two quarts of sweet skim-milk, together with the 
/jrain ration of ground oats, barley, or corn and bran, will keep the colt 
growing continuously, and thereby avoid that shrinkage that usually 
follows the weaning period. Three or four pounds of good, sweet hay, 
two or three pounds of oats and one of barley or corn ground, and a 
half pound of bran, with the four quarts (not more) of skim milk daily, 
varied to suit the size and make-up of the colt, will keep him growing 
finely, and be very much better than if twice' the amount had been 
given. Don't think because skim milk is cheap and the colt likes it, 
that the more it will drink the better. The stomach must not be dis- 
tended beyond activity. Enough is enough, and too much is a damage. 

DON'T TRY TO GROW COLTS ON HAY AND WATER ALONE. 

Large quantities of ordinary hay or straw and water is what pro- 
duces the ordinary stunted, pot-bellied orphan colt so often pointed out 
as the scrub, when he may be well bred, and if properly attended to, 
could have been made as good as many of the others. Regularity in 
feeding is of far more importance in the growth of the colt than in- 
creased quantity of feed. 

DON'T GIVE THE WEANLING COLTS LARGE AMOUNTS OF 
WATER AT A TIME. 

One very common error is giving the weanlings far too much water 
at one time, which deranges their digestion, depraves their appetites, 
and develops their bodies like "poisoned pups." 

EXERCISE THE COLTS. 

Exercise for the growing colts is of equal importance to their feed, 
and should be as regular as the weather will permit. If the weather is 
very severe, the colts must not be exposed long enough to become 
thoroughly chilled, but it is a very pernicious habit to keep the colts in 
the stable for days at a time and feed them heavily, as it will tell a sad 
tale on their legs, that may require months to recover from. 

WEANING THE LITTLE COLTS. 

If you take the colts away out of sight of the dams in weaning, it 
should be done in the morning, if there are several of them and it can 
be done, two colts should be put together in box stalls. One will be 
lonesome, two will be company and three is a crowd and trouble will 
ensue. 



HORSE SENSE. 137 

LEAVE THE COLTS TWELVE HOURS BEFORE OFFERING 
' FEED OR DRINK. 

In the evening after the colts have been weaned in the morning 
take some warm skim milk sweetened, and with a little in a shallow pan, 
hold under the colt's nose and with a sudden movement of the pan up- 
wards, dip its nose into the milk and take the pan away. Repeat this 
several times, until the colt gets a taste of the milk and then it will 
drink readily, as it is thirsty. Ofifer no water and if it will not take the 
milk in the evening, wait until the next morning and there will be no 
trouble, if it is done as before directed. 

SKIM MILK FURTHER CONSIDERED. 

In closing this subject of feeding the colts, it is important to add, 
that the real value in cow's skim milk, for the little colts at weaning 
time (afterwards, too) can scarcely be estimated. Cow's skim milk 
(not whole milk), comes nearer the natural food of the dam than any 
other we can furnish, and if given in moderate quantities daily, the 
weanling colts will never shrink in their growth, and you will be sur- 
prised to see how well they will grow and prefer the milk to any other 
food. Milk is 87 per cent water, and if we depend too much on the 
milk the colt will have to take so much of it that it will do no good. 
While the milk is splended feed, we must depend on grain for the more 
concentrated nutriment. They properly go together. 



CHAPTER XXX. 

DEVICES, MEANS AND METHODS FOR CONTROLLING 
OUR HORSES. 

For the want of a proper education when young, together with 
the careless handling and abuse of our horses, they contract habits that 
■are both dangerous to themselves, their companions and those who 
handle them. 

STUDY TO AVOID INCONVENIENCE AND PUNISHMENT. 

It should be our purpose all through life to carefully study horses' 
habits and the laws of their control, with the least possible inconveni- 
ence and punishment, and we will be thoroughly convinced that the 
simplest and most effective means of control, is through devices that 
harmonize with the laws of their organization. 

WE SHOULD NEVER BATTLE WITH OUR HORSES. 
The horses' strength being superior to that of man, precludes, at 
once, the idea that we should ever go to battle with him on anything 
like equal grounds; in fact, we would discourage the idea of ever get- 
ting into the fight wi.h cur horses, for this reason; since they are en- 
dowed with the same passions as ourselves, such as resentment, courage, 
revenge, etc., etc., we must banish the idea that our horses are "mere 
brutes" to be yanked, kicked and pounded at will, without the remem- 
brance of the event being stored up by them, for some opportunity when 
they will have the best of us. 

HORSES ENDOWED WITH INTELLIGENCE, SENTIMENT 
AND PASSION. 

Horses are not only endowed with passions, but intellect as well, 
and just in proportion to this latter endowment, and their educational 
advantages, is the true value of the horse. 

WE ESTIMATE BOTH MEN AND PIORSES BY THEIR ABIL- 
ITY AND EDUCATION. 

We estimate men by their natural ability and education, then why 
not apply the same rule to our horses? We have good and bad citizens, 
and for the bad, we have made laws and prisons for their control, and 
if we would correct the bad habits of our horses, we must use the means 
with which to overcome their muscular power without injury, or arous- 
ing their passion toward us, as is naturally engendered by whipping, 
■"yanking" and kicking. Let us so confine them that they have to 



HORSE SENSE. 139 

operate against themselves, rather than us, and, the results will be much 
more satisfactory than the usual methods of either indulgence or pun- 
ishment. 

THE USEFULNESS OF OUR HORSES DEPENDS ON THEIR 
EARLY EDUCATION. 

.The usefulness of our horse is, to a marked degree, just what we 
make it. We do not advise letting our horses control us by their su- 
perior strength, neither do we encourage the idea of conquering our 
horses by punishment and abuse. The true principle of control of 
horses for the best results, is by such means as will deprive them of 
their power to oppose us, and our kind and humane treatment of them 
whenever we are in close contact with them. Whenever we get our 
horses into trouble, confinement or entanglement, it is far better to be 
away from them during their efforts to liberate themselves, and, when 
they find all efforts fruitless, then is the proper time to go to their 
assistance, and relieve them of any entanglement or uncomfortable posi- 
tion they may have got into in the struggle, bearing this one 'principle 
in mind strictly, we become masters of the situation, if our means and 
methods are practically applied. 

WE MUST ALWAYS BE SURE WE HAVE THE MEANS OF 

CONTROL. 

One point of great importance in the management of horses, is to 
be sure we haye the absolute means of control, without failure either of 
principle, method or appliance, and when these are properly applied, 
any except insane horses will readily become subservient to the reason- 
able requests of man. 

EDUCATION OF THE HORSE IN THE STALL. 

It is a great satisfaction to any owner of a good horse to have him 
understand and promptly comply with all requests while in the stall, 
without excitement, irritation or annoyance. One of our first duties 
is to show the horse what we want of him in the stall and how he 
should comply. After tying him to the manger and getting out of the 
stall, the next thing is to get back into the stall on either side without 
his resenting or crowding us in the stall. 

MANY COLTS SPOILED THE FIRST DAY IN THE STABLE. 

Many a colt has been forever spoiled the first day he was in the 
stable, by the treatment he has received in trying to get him to stand 
over in the stall. It is usually commenced by trying to push him over 
from side to side; but if we have not strength enought to overcome this, 
then we are too apt to resort to the whip, fork-handle or club to ac- 
complish the desired result, and by this last means frequently make a 
bad actor in the stall forever. 



140 HORSE SENSE. 

HORSE REFUSING ADMISSION INTO THE STALL. 

The first illustration (Fig. i, Cut No. 58), is designed to show not 
only the position frequently taken by the horse in the stall, but the ex- 
pression and dangerous action towards any one who may desire to enter. 
He not only refuses to stand over, but indicates that he will kick if he 
is interfered with. 




Cut No. 58. 

What is to be done? Shall we go at him with a club, to teach him 
what we want him to do? Or shall we anticipate the difficulty, and bf 
fore placing him in the stall provide the means of easy control, as shownf 
in our illustration (Fig. 2, Cut No. 59)? This consists of a staple and 
ring just over the manager (to which his halter should be tied) about as 
high up on the side of the stall as his back. Another ring and staple at 
the rear end of the stall partition (see letters A and B), then tie a rope 
or strap into the ring of the nose band of the halter, pass it through 
the ring A and back to the ring B, to which tie sufificiently long to en- 
able the horse to eat along the entire length of the manger. 

THE HORSE ADMITS ENTRANCE TO THE STALL WITHOUT 

OBJECTION. 
When we go to enter the stall, we should place our hand on him, 
as represented in Fig. i, Cut No. 58, and if he refuses to stand over, 
we reach forward as far as possible in the stall and grasp this side-rope 
or strap and at the very instant we say "stand over" we must pull on 
the rope, which will bring his nose to the side of the stall to which the 
rope is attached, and by a slight push at the hind quarter he is forced 
in the opposite position in the stall, and we can step in by his side with 
perfect safety from kicking, fighting or <:rowding (see Fig. 2, Cut No. 
59) and this followed up for a few days (often repeated) the horse 



HORSE SENSE. 



141 



readily stands over in the stall to the right whenever requested, without 
fear, excitement or resentment. 

Fig* 2. 




Cut No. 59- 
EDUCATE THE HORSE ON ONE SIDE THEN ON THE 

OTHER. 

When he has fully learned what we want from one side of the stall, 
then .^should change the rope to the other side of the stall and pro- 
ceed Is before; and we are soon well paid for our trouble, m havmg a 
horte that promptly responds to our every wish m standmg over m the 
stall. 

SIMPLICITY OF METHOD MAKES IT WORTH TRYING. 
This remedy for crowding in the stall is so simple and practical that 
it is a surprise that any horse is permitted to contmue tl- habi The 
principle is, that when we pull the head up and to one side « the stall 
ft Ts perfec ly natural and easy that the rear end must go to the oppo- 
stsMe which gives room and safety to enter. We must not try to 
whip to submissLn, but use the means that control the actions trea 
lindly, and success will crown our efforts, m the management of our 
horses in the stable. 

THE HALTER-PULLER. 

This habit when once confirmed is quite difficult to entirely eradi- 
cate. The first way to avoid this bad habit is proper education to the 
halter when young. 

THE CONFIRMED HALTER-PULLER CAN BE CURED. 

When we have a confirmed halter-puller, in the stable or out of 
doors, the best method is to take a rope ten or twelve feet long and 
three-eighths to one-half inch in diameter, tie a knot m one end, then a 
loop that will not slip, or a ring tied in the end will do as well. Place 



142 HORSE SENSE. 

this rope around the body of the horse just in front of the hips, with 
the slip immediately under the body at the flank; then pass the rope 
along under the body, between the fore legs, under the noseband of 
the halter, then through the ring or hole of the manger or post to which 
we want to hitch him and back to the ring of the head-stall, and tie so 
as to give him about three feet between his head and the place to where 
he is hitched — all as shown in Figures 3 and 4, Cuts No. 60 and 61. 
Whatever he is afraid of may now be brought in front of him, and in- 
stead of waiting to see how hard he will pull, we start for him and don't 
stop until we reach the point to where he is hitched, at which time, nine 
times in ten he will be there to meet us; as he will only pull while one 
breath lasts him, when he must come forward for relief. 

Fie-3 




^^;£> 



Cut No. 60. 
HALTER-PULLER HITCHED AT BOTH ENDS. 

Illustration (Fig. 3, Cut No. 60), shows him doing his utmost tu 
break lose, but being hitched at both ends of his body and the pull equaj 
at front and rear, he suddenly leaps forward to relieve the pressure at 
the rear end and appears a shown in Fig. 4, Cut No. 61, with an entire 
change of expression and demeanor. He may try it two or three times, 
always with the same results. 

A MERE STRING WILL BE SUFFICIENT TO HOLD THE 

HORSE. 

The horse may now be tied with a halter-strap that will break at 
only a moderate pull, with the rope from his body secured to the hitch- 
ing post or manger, so that the pull on his head, comes first, and when 
the halter strap breaks he comes suddenly into the hitch around his- 
body, which so surprises him that, in a few days, by hitching with a still 
weaker and weaker tie-strap, he cannot be induced to pull enough to 
break a mere string. The hitch around his body should not be neg- 
lected for quite a time, so that if he should pull back and break loose, 
and get away, he has intelligence enough to know when the rope i& 
around his body and when it is not. 



HORSE SENSE. 



143 



HALTER-PULLER SURPRISED FROM THE EFFECT OF THE 
REAR HITCH. 



Fie- 4 




Cut No. 6i. 
We must not hurt him, nor should we give way for him when he 
pulls; but rather follow him up to show him that he cannot get away 
from his object of fright, which soon convinces him that his efforts are 
fruitless. 

KICKING AND PAWING IN THE STALL. 

This is a very disagreeable habit, and unless the proper means are 
used at the outset it is also quite difficult to break up with a hope of 
permanent cure. It can be prevented at any time; and as soon as the 
horse commences kicking the side of the stall or his stall companion, he 
should be shackled at the hind legs as shown in Fig. 5. Cut No. 62. 




Cut No. 62. 
THE HORSE SHACKLED IN HIS STALL. 



144 HORSE SENSE. 

This is done with a good, strong strap buckled around each hind 
leg above the ankle joints, with a coupling strap between, as shown in 
Cut. No. 62 and will effectually prevent it, and if persevered in its use 
will usually cure the habit. This is better than a short chain. 

Pawing is prevented by shackling the front legs in the same manner 
as shown also in Fig. 5. Cut No. 62. 

How frequently we see a pair of sharp shod horses put into a stall to- 
gether and very soon find one, or both, so badly cut from kicking as 
to render them unserviceable. Now, this could be prevented by shackles 
on the hind legs of both, and still giving them sufficient liberty to step 
about the stall or lie down and get up. It is best, however, to first put 
the shackles on for once or twice before getting sharp shod to get them 
used to them and to prevent calking themselves. Many a valuable young 
horse has been ruined in the hind legs from kicking the stall, generally 
acquiring the habit for the want of exercise. He has no chance to exer- 
cise, consequently he goes to kicking the stall until it becomes a con- 
firmed habit. Pawing in the stall results generally from the same cause. 
The shackles are very effectual with no danger after the first few minutes, 
and then only from self-calking. A trial will convince the most skeptical. 
This is a wonderful remedy for wilfully vicious horses, as it renders them 
perfectly harmless, like the handcuffed and shackled prisoner. We 
should treat these horses kindly but firmly and go about them with per- 
fect indifference, which we can do, under the circumstances. 

REMEMBER THE NATURAL LAW OF FORWARD AND BACK- 
WARD MOVEMENTS. 

Right here, we want to say to our readers that there is a principle, 
with horses, that whatever happens at the front part of their bodies im- 
pels them backward, and at the rear part induces them to move for- 
ward, and with this ever in mind it will greatly aid us in all dealings 
with our horses. 

EDUCATING THE HORSE TO BACK. 

Almost everybody endeavors to educate their horses to back by 
pulling on the reins, and in the majority of cases they are successful; 
but there are many horses that do not understand what is wanted of 
them when in harness and become sullen, and then it is almost an im- 
possibility to force them backwards by the bits. 
DON'T HURT THE HORSE'S MOUTH TO GET HIM TO BACK. 

A very simple and effectual method is to stand in front of the horse 
and, by only a gentle pressure on the bit with one hand, and a push with 
the extended fingers of the other hand between the point of the shoulder 
and breast-bone, he will readily go backward as shown in Fig. 9. Cut No. 
63. 
THE HORSE BACKS IN COMPLIANCE WITH NATURAL 

LAW. 

In giving this lesson we should always associate the pressure of the 
fingers with the word "back," and in a very few minutes the horse rea- 



HORSE SENSE. 



145 



lizes our wants and moves backward at the wo^-d alone. If we have a 
sluggish or sullen horse a piece of wood (not sharp) may be used to ad- 
vantage instead of the fingers, but usually the fingers alone are suf- 
ficient. Don't make the lesson very long, at first, and by the third or 
fourth trial the horse will respond to the word, together with gentle pres- 
sure on the bit. 




.'^^J' 



Cut No. 63. 

DON'T PUNISH THE HORSE TO BACK, AS BACKING IS AN 

ART. 

It is altogether wrong to "jerk" or "see-saw" the bit through the 
mouth to get the horse to back, when one, two or three lessons, as in- 
dicated, will make a willing servant in backing the horse without punish- 
ment or excitement. With the horse, backing is an art, and must be 
cultivated with great patience to make a complete success. 

When we consider the horse in harness, cramped at the mouth with 
the bit and at the rear by a breechen and then asked to back a load, for 
the first time, is it at all surprising that he gets confused and don't know 
what to do? Add to the punishment at the mouth with the bit, that of 
the whip and what can we expect him to do, but go up into the air and 
throw himself? 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

CONTROLLING THE ACTIONS OF THE HORSE BY HIS 

TAIL. 

There are other uses for a horse's tail than to brush off the flies. 
In our hands it becomes a great medium for controlling the actions of 
the horse. Experience with plains' horses is, that there is no other 
means by which we can accomplish so much in so short a time, as by 
hitching the subject's head to his own tail so close that he is obliged to 
gyrate or whirl around in a very small compass. Yes, but the natural 
query comes to. almost everybody, how are we to accomplish this con- 
nection of head and tail without danger of getting hurt? The answer 
is, that it is best done the very first time he is ever caught with the 
lasso, and then he should never again have his liberty until he is thor- 
oughly acquainted with his controller, man. This thing of catching the 
wild horse and then letting him go again and again, soon educates him 
to have a dread fear of man; besides, he is very apt to I learn how to 
evade the fatal noose, which only serves to make him the more danger- 
ous whenever anything out of the ordinary routine of his experience 
transpires. 

LET THE HORSE RUN AWAY IN A CIRCLE. 

When he is lassoed and thrown is just the time to put the halter 
on his head and secure it to his tail before letting him up. Then, with, 
a long, limber pole, something like a fishing-rod, we begin his educa- 
tion. See Cut No. 66. He has the use of his legs — his means of escape 
and defense — and at our approach and the touch of the pole he attempts 
to get away by flight; but his run away is only in a small circle, and, 
notwithstanding he exerts himself to the utmost of his ability, he does 
not succeed in getting away from the touch of the pole. If he attempts 
to kick or strike at the pole he is almost certain to fall, which, of itself 
is an admonition that he had better not repeat that action. 

POLING THE HORSE A GREAT FEATURE IF W^ELL DONE. 

This whirling motion requires but a very few minutes to render him 
so dizzy he must either stop or fall, and he generally prefers the former; 
but in either case, when he stops is the time we should bring it in con- 
tact with every part of his body — as advised with the young colt and like 
the use of the hand in our first visit to him when he is but one hour or 
one day old — and as soon as the wild horse finds that the pole does not 
hurt him, and he has done his very best to get away from it and failed^ 



HORSE SENSE. 



147 



he becomes more docile, and we may now be able to get near enough 
to him to touch him with the hand. But it is far better to use articles 
of clothing, such as an old vest, a pair of pants, a coat or a hat securely 
fastened to shorter poles, and show him that he cannot get away from, 
any of these. We will very soon find that he makes less and less ex- 
ertion at each attempt with new objects until finally we get our hands 
on him. 

WITHOUT MISTAKES, HALF AN HOUR IS AS GOOD AS 
THREE MONTHS. 

If we make no mistakes, in half an hour we have accomplished more 
in satisfying the wild horse that his attempts to get away from man are 
fruitless, than would be accomplished in three months by the ordinary 
process of "breaking," and no danger to horse or man of a serious char- 
acter. 

A SUCCESSFUL METHOD OF FASTENING THE TIE-STRAP 
INTO THE TAIL. 

The successful manner of tying the halter-strap or rope to the tail, 
is so important that we have made illustrations to show to a certainty 
just how it should be done for convenience and security. We puzzled 
our brain more than thirty-five years ago to evolve this knot, or manner 
of tying, for this purpose. See cuts No. 64 and 65. 




Cut No. 64. :; 

MANNER OF TYING THE HALTER STRAP TO THE TAIU ^ 

Of course there are a number of methods, but this is conceded the 
best, easiest, surest and safest, and is the one we have used for many^ 
many years. 

MEASURE THE DISTANCE FROM END OF TAIL-BONE TO 

GIRTH-PLACE. 
A tie-strap with a snap attachment to the head stall of the halter is 
preferable. Detach the tie-strap from the head-stall, then grasp all the 



148 



HORSE SENSE. 



hair of the tail just below the termination of the tail-bone, pull the tail 
around to the side of the horse and lay the strap across the tail with the 
snap-end just about where the girth or sursingle should encircle the body 
as shown in Fig. 7, Cut No. 64. Mark the strap as shown by the arrow, 
so as to preserve this proper length; then turn all the hair of the tail 
back towards the body and hold with the left hand, while we reach under 
and bring the other or tapering end of the strap around the tail, and 

READY TO TIE KNOT IN THE TAIL WITH THE HALTER 

STRAP. 

tuck under as shown in Fig. 8, Cut No. 65. This is a knot that is very 
easily tied, perfectly secure, and instantly untied by pulling on the pen- 
dant end of the strap, and we also have hold of the horse by the head at 
the same time when thus untied. 



FtG 8 




Cut No. 65. 

THE HORSE READY TO HAVE HIS HEAD AND TAIL 
HITCHED TOGETHER. 

When we have the knot tied and the strap of the proper length to 
attach to the halter, we are ready for active operations. 

It is always best to select some place free from stones, posts or other 
objects of injury, and then suddenly bring the horse's head far enough 
around to his side to attach the snap to the ring of the halter and let 
him go. Then, with the long, slender pole, we can approach him near 
enough so that the legs of the horse come in contact with the pole at 
every turn, as shown in Fig. 9, Cut No. 66. 

MAKING THE HORSE FAMILIAR WITH OTHER OBJECTS. 

After he becomes familiar with the pole, then we bring other ob- 
jects of all kinds to him until he no longer exerts himself to get away, 
and then we should begin handling his legs on the side to which his 



HORSE SENSE. 



149 



head is inclined; first, by the use of a soft strap, he will allow us to lift 
his fore and hind leg then with the hand. 




Cut No. 66. 
POLING THE WILD OR NERVOUS HORSE. 
If the horse is a sensitive, touchy, wild fellow, he will make desper- 
ate exertions to get away from the pole, but if we attend to business and 
follow him up, he does all the work and we look calmly on until he stops 
or falls, when we try to touch all parts of his body without hurting him 
with the pole. 

TURN THE HORSE THE OTHER DIRECTION. 

It is often good practice to unsnap from that side securing his head 
and tail to the opposite side and see if he will try to run the other way, 
(which he may a little), then handle the legs of that side to which the 
head is inclined. 



riG JO 




Cut No. dT. 
WESTERN OR WILD HORSES. 



150 



HORSE SENSE. 



If he is a western or wild horse that we will have difficulty in catching" 
•we should put shackles on all the legs as shown in Fig. 5. Cut No. 62, 
and Fig. 10, Cut No. 67, and instead of giving him his entire liberty of 
head, we have a ring or loop tied in his tail through which we run the 
strap of the halter and attach a long rope, as seen in Fig. 10, Cut No. d"]. 

SHACKLING THE HORSE ALL AROUND AND FEEDING 
FROM THE HAND. 

If at any time when we wish to approach him and he tries to get 
away, we have only to pick up the rope, and by pulling on it, we are able 
instantly to bring his head and tail together as shown in Fig. 11, Cut 
No. 68. 



J^'G n 




Cut No. 68. 
THE WILD HORSE CORRALLED, HELPLESS ANR HARM- 
LESS. 

If the shackled horse does not stop when we pick up the rope he 
will wind himself up and becomes perfectly helpless, so we can go to 
him without danger of being hurt. We should continue going to him 
and handling him, watering and feeding him from the hand, caressing 
him, showing him new objects, etc., etc., until he seems pleased with our 
visits. Then we may lengthen the shackles out until Tie has more or 
less use of his legs, and then we should begin his education of fol- 
lowing us, backing, the word "whoa," harnessing him, etc., when he 
will soon become a valuable horse, if he is endowed with a fair share of 
intelligence. 

ALL THE HORSE'S LEGS TIED TOGETHER WITHOUT PAIN 
OR DISCOMFORT. 

Heretofore we have been depriving the horse of the use of his legs 
""by degrees and controlling him more or less through the medium of the 
'/halter with head and tail. But now, with simply the addition of a strong 
(coupling strap or rope between the front and hind legs just short enough 
ito keep the legs all under the body, so as to neither hamper or give lib- 



HORSE SENSE. 



151 



erty of action and we can- remove all other attachments and familiarize 
ourselves, families, neighbors and friends with the young or aged ani- 
mal, as seen in cut No. 69. 




Cut No. 69. 

EVERYBODY GETTING ACQUAINTED WITH THE HORSE 
AND HE WITH EVERYBODY. 

Notwithstanding the subject of our sketch is anxiously looking to- 
wards the herd that he was but recently a member of, he is now seem- 
ingly contented with the new situation, unhampered in any way except 
that he is deprived of the use of his legs. While he is unable to go any- 
where he has learned that he is not to be hurt in any way. The children, 
lady with umbrella and men now are to be treated with indifference by 
him, as he knows they mean no harm. In this condition all kinds of 
objects can be brought to him and he can be made acquainted with any- 
thing desired by his owner or handler, but this one thijig must be en- 
forced on the mind of every one coming in contact with him; that 
he is not to be hurt or suddenly frightened under any circumstances. 

NATIVE NEW ZELANDER'S METHOD VERY CRUDE BUT 
ABOUT THE SAME. 

The native New Zelander drives the subject to be handled into the 
mire and while in a helpless condition they make themselves familiar 
with the horse from every quarter. Men, women and children ride the 
wild horse from ears to tail. They bring all kinds of objects to the horse 
for his inspection, but they never give him pain and by the time they 
have helped him from the quagmire the horse realizes that they are his 
friends instead of enemies, and they make very reliable animals. 

HAVE THE EDGES OF THE SHACKLE-STRAPS ROUNDED. 

It must not be forgotten that the shackle-straps must be made very 
strong and have the edges nicely rounded or lined with lamb's wool to 



152 HORSE SENSK. 

prevent chafing. The coupling straps for the front and hind leg shackles 
should be kept about the same length. 

NO LIBERTY FOR THE WILD HORSE UNTIL FULLY EDU- 
CATED. 

If the reader has followed us closely, with frequent reference to the 
cuts, he can at once see that these appliances are founded on right prin- 
ciples and lead to the ends to be attained in the control of the wild horse 
without injury to horse or man. We should never let the wild horse get 
away from us or have the chance to take the advantage of us in any 
particular, from the first time we come in contact with him until he has 
full confidence in us; neither should we ever hurt him when in immedi- 
ate contact with him, if we expect him to have confidence in us. 



CHAPTER XXXII. 



NOVEL, BUT PRACTICAL METHOD OF HITCHING OR PICK- 
ETING HORSES, ETC., ETC. 

On our large prairies we can not readily find a post or object to 
which we can tie or hi'tch our horses. We have all tried various meth- 
ods, but the one shown in illustration (Fig. 12. Cut No. 70), is as con- 
venient and practical as any, where we have two horses. Use halters or 
bridles. 

Fig. 12. 




/^ 



Cut No. 70. 

PAIR OF HORSES HITCHED HEADS AND TAILS. 

The illustration speaks for itself and consists only in tying each 
horse to the other's tail, just sufficiently long to enable them to get their 
heads to the ground when we want them to graze, and when we need 
them they can be found not far from the very spot where we left them, 
as each one must follow the other in a circle. The knots in the tails 
are tied just the same as the one just mentioned, except that the tie- 
strap or rope is wound around the tail several times before being tucked 
under to finish the knot; so that the spring of the hair in the tail will 
not render it loose and become untied. If several turns are made and 
drawn down tight, there is no danger of their becoming untied. 

This is a safer manner of picketing horses than a stake and rope. 
This is an excellent method to educate little coUs to the halter if they are 
tied short. They soon learn to follow the halter. 



154 HORSE SENSE. 

PICKETING OR LEAVING THE SINGLE HORSE. 

We are often asked for a method of hitching the single horse on. 
the prairie and be able to find him on our return, and here it is. The il- 
lustration speaks for itself. Tell me, please, how far the horse will get 
from where he is left, and yet he can eat grass and move around over 
quite a space (backwardly) in half a day, but cannot go forwards. This 
is a very convenient method of grazing the lawn or feeding to grass 
where there are no fences for holding the horse. See Cut No. 71. 

THE SINGLE HORSE HITCHED TO HIMSELF ON THE PRA- 
IRIE OR LAWN. 




i\^l(it 



GUNNY-SACK OR MATTING AND HALTER WILL KEEP THE 
SINGLE HORSE. 

Take a piece of strong matting four feet long and one foot wide, 
with a hole cut in the center of the matting so as to put in a ring, or 
tie the halter through this opening, and we have a better method of 
learning a horse to stand without hitching than by a weight. 

It is better to put shackles on the front legs, as shown in cut No. 70 
(a strap around each leg above the ankle and a cross strap) to keep the 
matting immediately under the horse at all times; yet in many cases it 
is just as effectual without this, as with it. Good strong "gunny" sack, 
will answer as well as anything for the matting. This is simple but ef- 
fectual in practice. The horse is practically tied to himself and yet he is 
not seriously hampered. See Cut No. 71. 

CONTROLLING THE HIND FEET OF THE HORSE IN SHOE- 
ING. 

So many people have trouble in handling the hind legs of horses, 
in caring for the feet, shoeing, etc., that it is best to give an illustration 
and a little advice in the manner and method of doing it easily. 

We should first take a strap or rope 8 or jo feet long and lay it 
across the tail, as seen in Fig. 7. Cut No. 64. 



HORSE SENSE. 



155 



INDUCING THE HORSE TO HOLD HIS HIND LEG UP. 

Tie a similar knot as in picketing the pair of horses, (see cut No. 
70), with one end of the rope; then slip on iron ring on the rope and 
tie as near to the knot of the tail as possible and secure it there on the 
rope. Next let the rope drop to the ground; then buckle a short strap 
around and pastern and over the rope; pass the rope back up through 
the ring at the tail and an assistant can hold the hind foot' up with ease 
in spite of the horse's efforts, by pulling on the rope. 



Fig- 13 




Cut No. 72. 

If you are alone you can tie the horse to a post, and after pulling 
the foot up with the rope and he has ceased to struggle, you can tie 
the rope to the ring by a half hitch and the horse must hold his own 
foot up, and you can operate on it as you like. 

POSITIONS OF THE HORSE AND ATTENDANT AT THE 
SHOEING SHOP. 

The consequent troubles of many horses at the shoeing shop calls 
for a few suggestions to reduce to the minimum the sufiferings of the 
horse, the danger to the smith and the conduct of the attendant. 

Too many people take their horses to the shoeing shop and go 
away and leave them in the hands of strangers and expect to return 
and find the work done in the best possible manner. This is in many 
cases almost an impossibility. It is about as important that the horse 
is taken care of by an attendant, as by the smith. 

THE POSITION OF THE ATTENDANT ON THE SAME SIDE 
AS THE SMITH. 

The position in which the horse is made to stand while being shod 
or having his feet cared for, is of more importance than the majority 
of people or smiths ever think of. 

Usually, when horses' feet are being handled, and especially while 
young, they should always be controlled by an attendant holding the 



156 



HORSE SENSE. 



horse's head. Now, the attendant's position in relation to that of the 
horse is of the utmost importance. 



Fig14 




Cut No. 73. 
ATTENDANT NEARLY ALWAYS ON OPPOSITE SIDE FROM 

SMITH. 

Almost invariably we see the attendant standing on the opposite 
side of the horse from the operator, and generally with the horse's 
head inclined towards him as seen in cut No. T2,< and the result is, the 
weight of the horse (to a degree at least) is thrown on the man holding 
the foot as also seen in same cut. 



Fig 15 




Cut No. 74. 

ATTENDANT AND SMITH ON SAME SIDE— PROPER PLACE. 

The reader may, at first sight, think this frivolous to some degree, 
but if it is once tested with care, it will ever after be practised, as the 
results show for themselves. 



HORSE SENSE. 1^*^ 

ATTENDANT STANDING ON OPPOSITE SIDE FROM THE 

SMITH. 
When the attendant takes his position on the opposite side from 
the smith, any struggle that the horse makes ^}'^ ^f''^\^\'^j;^'^' 
the smith; besides, if the horse's head is mchned from the sm^h, it 
Is natural y throws more weight on the smith than if the head was 
turned to the same side, and renders his position necessarily more 
or less dangerous; but if the attendam will always stand on the same 
sL as the operator and incline the horse's head a little to the same 
side the ODerator is relieved of the bearing down of the horse, as that 
inclines the weight on the opposite legs as seen in cut No. 74- Besides 
the easy position thus obtained, there is httle or no danger m the 
horse's struggles, as they, will be away from the operator instead of 

towards him. ^^^,t t,^ 

COMPLETE SUCCESS DEPENDENT ON ATTENTION TO 

DETAILS. 
The details of any department of animal husbandry goes to make 
tip the sum total of success, and while we have in the last two chap- 
ters only dealt with a few of the many conditions to be solved a 
careful study and practice of these will be preparatory to meeting 
other contingencies, the sole object of which is to render our horses 
of more service to us, by showing our fellow men some of the details 
of the methods, horse sense and- true horse education, resulting from 

WE MUSt'cONDUCT OURSELVES IN HARMONY WITH THE 
CIRCUMSTANCES. 
We must ever take matters as we find them, and conduct ourselves 
according to circumstances and conditions. If we will '^o-™^"- ^^^ 
proper education of our horses when they are very young, we will find 
the same resuks as with our children who have the proper tra-mg in 
their youth-no trouble in after life, if naturally well disposed; but if 
we let our horses run wild until they have attained their mature growth, 
Zl must certainly use such means and methods (without violence) as 
will positively demonstrate to them that we are masters of the situa- 
tion, yet merciful to the end. 

OUR EDUCATION WAS NOT ACQUIRED IN A DAY, NOR IS 
THAT OF THE HORSE. 
We did not obtain our education in a day. week, month or year; 
then why expect the horse to understand all that is needed of him m the 
un'asonably short period that is ordinarily -^--^^^^ecause we hav 
herein indicated, as well as shown, the means for the control of our 
horses, we sincerely hope none of the readers of this book will look 
upon it as a means of revenge for some of the actions of their hors s 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

MEANS, METHODS AND PRINCIPLES OF HANDLING MA- 
TURE HORSES. 

The author confesses that he has more or less misgivings in the 
preparation of this chapter than any of the others, particularly in rela- 
tion to the means and methods to be used in controlling our horses, 
when in the hands of the unobserving, impetuous and passionate "hoss- 
men." 

AS MUCH VIRTUE IN METHODS AS THE MEANS WITH OUR 

HORSES. 

While he will endeavor to impress upon the mind of every reader 
the fact that there is fully as much virtue in the methods as the means 
used, he is quite certain too many will adopt the means of control (as 
the key of success), and ignore the methods (manner of using the ap- 
pliances) and then, failing in the desired results, will condemn the 
author. 

THESE MEANS AND METHODS ARE PROVEN BY EX- 
PERIENCE AND PRACTICE. 

The means and methods herein given, have often been used by 
the author and found the most valuable of any he has tried. They are 
not a mere theory, but principles established upon experience. The 
author has, in the preceding chapters, tried to impress upon the minds 
of his readers the importance of complying with the simple laws gov- 
erning our animals, and he cannot do justice to our noble servant — 
the horse — without referring briefly to them again, and, possibly, in 
a manner that will make it more impressive, embracing the priniples 
and laws. 

NATURAL LAWS GOVERNING THE ACTIONS OF OUR 

HORSES. 

The pivotal point which determines the action of the horse is the 
center of his body, and when this is thoroughly understood, very many 
of the mysteries concerning why horses act as they do is easily under- 
stood. Whatever we do with the horse, should always be in harmony 
with these laws. 

1st. Whatever transpires at the front of the horse impels him 
backward. 

2nd. Whatever takes place at the rear of the horse, inclines for- 
ward action. 



HORSE SENSE. 



159 



3rd. All side motions- affect in like manner— in opposite direction. 
4th. In all of our operations with the horse, it should be our high- 
est aim to avoid giving him pain when in close contact with him. ^ 

5th. Whenever he becomes entangled by accident, or we do it pur- 
posely we should stay away from him until he realizes his utter help- 
lessness to free himself, then go to his assistance and kindly relieve 
him when he will appreciate us, and readily becom.e our willing ser- 
vant. But if, by entanglement, we abuse him for it, then, whenever he 
finds himself encumbered in any way, he naturally goes to work to 
free himself and gets away from his handler— making a dangerous horse, 
instead of what he should be— kind and gentle. 

6th. We should endeavor to control our horses by means and 
methods that will demonstrate to them that we are the stronger (through 
the means used), but associated with kindness whenever in close con- 
tact with them. 

7th In connection with the means to demonstrate our superior 
power over the horse, we should never forget that the medium of the 
stomach is the most direct road to his affections-consequently, not- 
withstanding, we may lay him down, deprive him of the use of his 
legs, etc., we should feed him sugar, sweet apples, cookies, or what- 
ever he relishes from our hand, and it is astonishing, to the masses, 
how soon the wild or even vicious horse is as docile as a lamb. 

8th. The reader will observe that the means set forth, in Horse 
Sense, "is not intended to injure the horse in any way, but to enable 
his handler to demonstrate his superior muscular power (through these 
means) over that of the horse without any manifestation of anger 
on the part of the handler. 

9th. We should at all times keep the horse cool and quiet, and en- 
deavor to show him kindly what is expected of him, rather than to try 
to force him to do what he does not understand. 

loth. We should always make the lessons short and impressive, 
and never try to progress faster than the horse fully understands what 
we want of him. 

Note: To reassure the reader that we are correct in this matter, 
we have to only remind him that, if a horse gets his head fast any- 
where, he goes backward to get loose. If he gets his front foot over 
any olastruction if not more than one foot high, and feels the pressure 
on the underside of his leg, he instinctively goes backward for relief. 
When he gets his hind foot fast, he goes forward to free himself. Fasten 
a tin can to his tail, and like the dog in the same condition, he goes 
forward as fast as he can. If the horse undertakes to go through a 
narrow passage, like a narrow door or between two posts, and he is 
pressed on both sides at the swell of his body back of the middle, he 
goes on through if it knocks his hips down. Whoever "broke" a colt 
to the halter but knew, before putting the halter on the cok's head, 
when he began to pull at the halter, that tti'^ coK wou\d go backwards 
for relief, but what proportion of Tnankind ever stopped and thought 
what made the colt go that way invatfaWy." Tne colt thinks he has his 



160 



HORSE SENSE. 



head into some kind of a trap, and by the law of his nature he must 
go backwards for relief. Blindfold the colt and he will stand, gener- 
ally. 

Then let us observe these natural laws in all we do with our horses 
and we will have far less trouble than when we are working directly 
against these laws, as is too often the case. 

HANDLING THE HORSE BY THE HEAD. 

As most of our horses are controlled, through the medium of the 
mouth, it will be best to begin our illustrated part, of chapter xxxv, with 
easy and efifective means and methods of controlling the horse through 
the mouth. We should be decidedly opposed to the use of harsh bits, 
which lacerate and mutilate the sensitive mouth of the horse, by and 
through which we communicate our very thoughts, to this noble animal, 
through the medium of the reins. For many reasons, we should all begin 
our education of the horse through the medium of the mouth, with a 
small (comparatively soft) rope, instead of iron bits. It is much more 
efifective, will not bruise the soft, sensitive tissues and by its binding char- 
acter, in which it is applied, makes our work more readily appreciated by 
the horse. For instance, when we pull on the rope, it binds in the mouth. 




^'.-Vvi 



Cut No. 75- 



SAFETY (OR STALLION) BRIDLE, FIRST FORM AND POSI- 
TION. 



HORSE SENSE. 



161 



and does not let go until the horse comes to us or we go to him and 
loosen it, which is at once appreciated by the horse, and makes us looked 
upon as a friend in need and not an enemy. 

STALLION OR SAFETY BRIDLE. 

It is well to take about twenty feet of one-fourth inch manilla rope, 
with which we can make a better stallion bridle than is generally used of 
any other character. 

MANNER OF ADJUSTING THE STALLION OR 
SAFETY BRIDLE. 

We should first throw one end of the rope over the neck of the horse, 
with the left hand; reach under the neck with the right hand, and grasp 
the end of the rope, and -tie a bow — bowline knot (see Cut No. ^3), quite 
snug to the neck, (but not really tight or too close), now pass the left 
hand under this part around the neck, and draw through enough rope to 
go in the mouth, as shown in Cut No. 75. 







Cut No. 76. 
SAFETY (OR STALLION) BRIDLE, SECOND FORM AND PO- 
SITION. 

We should next stand with our face toward the rear of the horse, tak- 
ing the rope in the right hand about one foot from the neck of the horse, 
then reaching over the rope with the left hand, take hold of the rope 



162 HORSE SENSE. 

with the back of the hand up and forward, as seen in Cut No. 75. We 
must now pass this rope, as held in this way, over the horses head bring- 
ing the right hand to the base of the ear and left hand down under the 
neck as seen in Cut No. 'jd. 

FINISHING THE ADJUSTMENT OF THE SAFETY BRIDLE. 

Now we should change hands, taking hold of the rope with the right 
hand where held by the left and open the mouth of the horse by pressing 
the soft end of the finger, or thumb of the left hand, against the roof of 
the horse's mouth, when he will readily open the mouth and we pass the 
rope through the mouth, and, changing hands again, taking hold of the 
rope, just at the left side of the mouth, with the left hand; then pull on 
the long part of the rope, with the right hand, to adapt the rope to head, 
and we have the most effective bridle for the control of strong, vicious 
hOr-ses,'Oi' biting stallions, to be found. See Cut No. 35, fig. 3. 

THE HORSE IS PREVENTED FROM BITING WITH THE 
SAFETY BRIDLE. £■., ■ 

By pulling on this rope, only moderately, the cheeks of the horse are 
forced between the molar teeth, so that it is impossible for him to close 
his mouth,, and bite, even though we put our hand into his mouth, and 
hold /ft .'there, if we keep the rope tight. 

i (' , METHOD OF USING THE SAFETY BRIDLE. 

When we have it snugly applied to the head of the horse, (not loose- 
ly), we should permit him to run away from us, the length of the rope, 
and with a sudden pull, pivot him on his hind feet, or stop him. He is 
willing; to stop, no matter how well he feels, for he finds that his head and 
mouth are in a vice, as it- were, with, apparently, no relief. 

GETTING THE HORSE INTO TROUBLE WHEN AWAY AND 
RELIEF WHEN NEAR HIM. 

Now, if he does not come to us, we should go to him, pat him 
caressingly on the cheek, and gently loosen the rope in his njouth. He 
is now free again, and, possibly, may be so reckless as to ti^y it again, 
with the same results. We should do as before, three or four times if 
necessary, when he fully realizes that he had better not get to the full 
length of the rope away from us, or if he does the rope binds his mouth 
as before. 

GIVE RELIEF WHENEVER THE MOUTH IS CRAMPED 

BY ROPE. 

But if the horse will come to us, we never must disappoint him in 
relief and kind attentions when in close contact with him, which insures 
his confidence in us, that no matter what troubles he encounters, he is 
assured we will help him out of the difficulty. 

Now a full description has been given of the method of applying the 
safety handling bridle, so that the reader can readily comprehend the 
principle of handling vicious horses without serious abuse or danger. 



HORSE SENSE. 



163 



The horse is a very apt scholar, to learn either good or evil, and it is for 
us to direct him aright, as he never forgets what he has fully learned. 
A CHEAP AND VERY EFFECTIVE RIDING BRIDLE. 




Cut No. 77. 
THE HORSE FRIGHTENED AT THE 

BRELLA. 



SIGHT OF THE UM- 




Cut No. 78. 
HANDLING THE UMBRELLA ON HORSEBACK. 

Remember the law, as previously referred to, that whatever happens 
at, or toward, the rear of the horse, impels him forward, as well as that 



164 



HORSE SENSE. 



which happens in front of him, forces him backward. It is well illustrated 
in cuts No. 78 and 79, in handling an umbrella on horseback. When 
the umbrella is back of the center of his body, and he takes fright, he 
naturally tries to run, but by bringing the umbrella over his head, as 
■seen in cut No. 79, he stops instantly, and reverses his action so suddenly, 
that we must be on our guard, or we will go over his head. 

A GOOD, CHEAP RIDING BRIDLE. 

It consists of a piece of quarter inch manilla, or cotton rope, from 
six to eight feet long. By placing the middle part on top of the horses 
head, drawing down on either side of the face and passing through the 
mouth from each side, up on top of the neck, and, tying a knot at the 
-withers to keep from dropping out of the mouth, we have a good riding 
tridle, as illustrated in Cut No. Tj; down in front of the horse as well as 
applied to his head. 




Cut No. 79. 
BLINDING THE HORSE WITH AN UMBRELLA. 

"Now, how much better it is to understand this law, and hold on to 
'the umbrella, until the horse finds he cannot get away from it, than to 
throw it away at first fright, and ever after incline him to run away from 
^every object he is afraid of. 

We must not get in a hurry in the education of our horses, if we 
-woiild have them fully understand our meaning in all we do with them. 
■"Hurry often makes waste," and mistakes with the horse are very difficult 
ito^correct. 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

POWER OF MAN OVER THE HORSE. 

Whenever we' find the horse does not feel disposed to give us his un- 
divided atttention, with the appUcation of the safety bridle, and its asso- 
ciate treatment, then we should proceed to demonstrate to him our su- 
perior strength, through the means we use, together with very kind 
treatment. 

LAYING THE HORSE DOWN— AND MEANS OF DOING IT. 

There is probably nothing we ever do to the horse that is quite so as- 
suring to him of our superior power, like that of laying him down and 
putting him in a perfectly helpless condition and at the same time, treat- 
ing him with the greatest kindness. 

MAKING A CIRCINGLE AND CRUPPER WITH ONE PIECE 

OF ROPE. 

We first take about fifteen feet of three-eighth inch rope, double it 
at about one-third its length, and slip a two-inch iron ring over this 
doubled portion, and tie a knot in the double rope, so as to hold the ring 
in such position, that the doubled end will make a crupper and back piece 
the required length, to have the ring rest at the point of the back, where 
the saddle of the harness should be. The remaining portion of the rope 
forms a circingle as seen in cuts No. So and 8i. 

A casting harness may be made of leather consisting of strong cir- 
cingle, back strap and crupper to suit the taste. 




Cut No. 80. 
CRUPPER AND CIRCINGLE MADE OF ONE PIECE OF ROPE. 

When the circingle and crupper is adjusted, we should take a fourth- 
inch rope, twenty or thirty feet long, pass one end through the ring on 
the back, pass it along the right side of the neck of the horse, through 



166 



HORSE SENSE. 



the ring of the halter, and back to the ring referred to on the back, and 
tie securely. Next we should take the hold-back or side strap to a sin- 
gle harness, or a good ham-strap will answer, pass it around the pastern 
of the left front leg, passing through the keeper, so that the buckle will 
be on the outside of the leg when the strap is pulled backward. Then 
we must lift up the left front foot of the horse, run the strap under the 
circingle, with the hair, and buckle up quickly and short, as seen in cut 
No. 8i. As soon as the leg is securely fastened, we should let the horse 
have his liberty to about the length of the rope, when he is apt to be halt- 
ed, as seen in cut No. 82. 




Cut No. 81. 
THE HORSE ALREADY TO BE LAID DOWN. 

OBSERVE THE METHODS AS WELL AS THE MEANS; THEY 
GO TOGETHER. 

We should not try to throw the horse down at once but allow him to 
hobble around on three legs, until he gets tired, being sure to keep at a 
distance from him all the time, letting him realize that he is in trouble — 
that he is a cripple. By keeping his head inclined to one side, with slight 
tension on the small rope, he will soon get tired, and drop on his knees, 
when his head should be puUed-to his side, as seen in cut No. 83, con- 
tinue to stay away from the horse and, holding him in this uncomforta- 
ble position until he falls over on his side, when we must pull hard 



HORSE SENSE. 



167 



enough on the small rope to bring his nose to the ring on his back as 
seen in cut No. 84. 

If the reader does not believe this is an uncomfortable position, let 
him try to look back over his shoulder one minute by the watch and 
see how his neck will ache. After the horse has lain in this position one- 




half minute to a minute, he will make a desperate struggle to rise but if 
the small rope is kept tight it is impossible for him to get up. Just as 
soon as the struggle is over we should approach him, (keeping the hand 
rope tight), caress him on the head and neck and begin relaxing on the 
hand rope until he Is stretched out on the ground in an easy position as 
seen in cut No. 85. 



168 



HORSE SENSE. 



If the horse fails to appreciate the comfortable position we have given' 
him, and attempts to get up, we must spring away from him and again 
get him into that same uncomfortable position by pulling on the hand 
rope as before. See cut No. 83. Now we will hold him in this very un- 
comfortable position again a short time, to let him know that we are 
away from him and he is unable to extricate himself. If he struggles^ 




again, we must do as before; but if he submits without a struggle, we 
should never keep him long in this position, but go to him and relieve 
him as before. By the second or third round of trial to get up, he fully 
comprehends that when we are in close contact with him, he is relieved, 
of his troubles; also, that when he attempts to rise we are suddenly gone,, 
and he is at once in that same uncomfortable position again. 



HORSE SENSE. 



169 



PUNISHMENT DEFEATS THE VERY OBJECT AIMED AT. 
As soon as the horse discovers that we do not mean to hurt him, and 
that whenever he is in serious trouble we come to his relief, he, very 
naturally, has confidence in us, and cares but little what we do to him, or 
with him, that does not give him pain. 




Cut No. 84. 
THE HORSE ON HIS SIDE AND IN GREATER TROUBLE, 




Cut No. 85. 
THE HORSE IN A COMFORTABLE POSITION. 



170 



HORSE SENSE. 



WHEN DOWN A GOOD TIME TO GET ACQUAINTED WITH 
OBJECTS OF FRIGHT. 

While we have the horse down in this way, it is a good time to make 
him familiar with us, from every position, holding on to the hand rope 
all the time, and being ready to pull his nose to his side at any moment, 
he should strive to avoid us. 

As soon as the horse is familiar with us from every position, also 
with our weight, on any part of his body, lying, sitting, or standing, we 
then should begin with other objects, such as the noise of bells, pans, 
drums, etc. The sight and touch of blankets, robes, or umbrellas, open 
or closed in cut No. 86. 




Cut No. 86. 
THE HORSE EXAMINING UNUSUAL OBJECTS. 

By bringing objects to the horse when down, we can make him ac- 
quainted with them, without his getting away from us, or injury in any 
way. 

THE HORSE EXAMINES OBJECTS AS WE DO, BY SIGHT, 
TOUCH AND SMELL. 

The horse examines all things very much as we do, first by sight, and 
then by touch. But if the sight is sufficient to frighten him away, he 
never fully satisfies himself by the touch; he stays away from the object 
through fear by sight alone. Consequently, the importance of having 



HORSB SENSE. 



171 



him in a position by which we can bring the objects in contact with his 
body, and show him by touch, sight and smell, that there is no cause for 
pain from them. 




Cut No. 87. 
CONTENTMENT OF HORSE AND MAN. 

If we have done our work consistently, and in such order that we 
have carried the horse along with us, in understanding, step by step, we 
may now take every incumbrance from him, and he will appear as seen 
in cut No. 87, confident and contented. 

The above cut. No. 86, was made from the photograph of a hand- 
some four-year-old mare, and the writer, after having had a lesson of 
about twenty minutes (without sweating a hair), on the fair grounds at 
Madison, Minn. She was a powerful mare, active and very nervous to 
begin with, but very soon became remarkably docile, as almost all horses 
will, when properly handled. 

REMEMBER THE HORSE IS ENDOWED WITH INTELLECT 
AND PASSION. 

Don't let us ever forget that the horse is endowed with intelligence, 
kindness, fear, passion and revenge; and we must conduct ourselves ac- 
cor-dingly, observing closely the laws of correlation between men and 
animals. 

AN APPEAL TO THE READERS IN RELATION TO METHODS 

AND MEANS. 

Now, dear reader, please remember what has been repeatedly said, 
that there is as much virtue in the methods as the means. To be sure 



172 HORSE SENSE. 

we can, by the means here represented, throw the horse down with con- 
siderable violence, and punish him severely while down and in close con- 
tact with him, without his being able to help himself; but by so doing we 
defeat the very object aimed at, viz., every time thereafter, remembering 
the punishment received, he will refuse to submit until entirely exhausted. 
But by the cool, quiet method and not being in too great a hurry, the 
horse realizes his trouble, gets weary, lies down, finds he is unable to 
rise of his own efforts, yet finds he has a friend in us, who comes to his 
assistance in time of need, and he certainly appreciates it with a kindly 
remembrance, or he would not rest so contented as shown in cut No. 87. 



CHAPTER XXXV. 



MEANS, METHODS AND PRINCIPLES OF HANDLING 
HORSES BY THE LEGS. 

Having previously made ourselves familiar with the horse, by laying 
him down and proving our superior power, (through the means used), 
and at the same time relieving him when he got into any serious entangle- 
ments; if he still persists in asserting his wishes as soon as he is assisted 
to his feet again, then we should use means to control his powers of 
locomotion. 

Of the many ways and means of controlling the horse through the 
medium of his legs, mention of a few of the more important will suffice. 

We will commence our operations by taking the saddle and crupper 
of a single harness. We use both girths in order to retain the shaft- 
holders down in position. 




Cut No. 88. 

CONTROLLING THE HORSE BY DOUBLE PERSUASIVE 

METHOD. 

The lines, for driving, should pass through the shaft-holders, in- 
stead of the terrets on the saddle. By having the lines through the 
shaft-holders, the horse is prevented from turning around and facing 
us, as the lines pull across his thighs, instead of over his back, and we 
are enabled to keep his head from us. 



174 



HORSE SENSE. 



When we have the lines so adjusted, we should then buckle a strap 
around each front pastern. Then take about twenty feet of quarter 
inch rope or rawhide, and with one end in the hand, put it under the 
girth of the harness, against the hair, pass it down, and under the strap 
at the pastern of the right leg, and back under the girth again, with the 
hair, and down to, and attach to the strap of the pastern of the left 
leg, when we can take the rope and lines in hand, and get behind the 
horse, and commence proceedings as in cut No. 88. 

If the horse starts ofif quietly we must certainly give him no an- 
noyance, but if he persists in trying to get away from us, or rears, we 
should proceed to draw his front feet to his body, as seen in cut No. 89, 
by pulling on the rope; or if he attempts to run from the start, we pull 
on the rope, for the same purpose as seen in cut No. 90. 




■^X^^] 



THE HORSE REARING, BUT LOSING THE USE OF HIS LEGS 

IN THE ACT. 

REINS FOR THE LEGS, BETTER THAN TO THE BITS. 
When the horse is determined to get away, with even good treat- 
ment, the use of the double foot attachment persuader is very effective, 
if in the hands of a considerate and affectionate horsema.n. If the horse 
starts by rearing or running, and we pull on the rope, the result is the 
same in both cases, and is very well shown in cut No. 90. 



HORSE SENSE. 



175 



It is quite evident from the appearance of the horse in the illus- 
tration, cut No. 89, that if the attachment give way he is at liberty, 
but, on the other hand, if the attachments are strong enough he is 
bound to come to the ground on his nose and knees, as will be seen in 
cut No. 91. 




Now that we have the horse in this helpless condition, we must not 
keep him there long, or he will get discouraged and lie down, and 
possibly refuse to get up. But if we hold him in this position but a 
moment, or until he becomes comparatively quiet, then go to him 
calmly, caress him, put one arm under his neck, loosen the reins and 
rope, and lift on him a little, with an encouraging word to get up, he 
will get to his feet promptly, and be a little more careful afterwards. 



176 



HORSE SENSE. 



A FAILURE UNLESS PRINCIPLES AND METHODS ARE 
CLOSELY OBSERVED. 

One handler will use this appliance with the most satisfactory re- 
sults by going slow and careful, not dropping the horse to his knees, 
but once or twice, and the horse realizing the advantage taken of him, 
and not becoming confused, quietly adapts himself to the wishes of 
his teacher, while another handler with the same horse would make 
some mistakes, get confused or angry himself, and soon get the horse 
excited and have a real fight between horse and man, a condition that 
should be avoided at all times and under all conditions, as no good can 
result. The natural query to the reader then would be, is this method 
valuable or dangerous in my hands? This can be answered only by say- 
ing that by these means we can prevent the horse from running away 




Cut No. 91. 
CONVINCING THE HORSE OF HIS UTTER HELPLESSNESS. 

or doing much mischief in any way, which we consider valuable to 
both man and horse. But we must urge all handlers not to put the 
horse down on his knees any oftener than can possibly be avoided, 
for the best results. The horse can travel with this appliance about as 
well as without it. We should advise the use of knee-pads if the horse 
is to be driven on the hard rough roads. 

THE APPLIANCE MORE VALUABLE IN SINGLE THAN IN 
DOUBLE HARNESS. 

The double persuader is better and more practical in single than 

double harness, on account of this depriving the horse of the use of his 
front legs and stopping him entirely, which must necessarily be a 
hindrance to the other horse. The single persuader will be considered 
in connection with the work in double harness principally. 



HORSE SENSE. 177 

CONTROLLING THE HORSE BY THE SINGLE PERSUASIVE 

METHOD. 

Now, dear readers, please don't complain of our heading, because we 
mean it in its most forcible sense. Persuasive influence, with both men 
and animals, is certainly the most effective, as we shall try to show 
here; and if our readers will apply the principles, means and methods 
here laid down, instead of the whip and other brutal force, we are 
confident of gaining our point with both the horse and his handler. 

Means and methods, you will observe, are our principles of con- 
vincing the horse that if he is determined to have a struggle, it must 
be mostly with himself. We should take as little part in it as possible, 
consequently try to devise the means by which he can demonstrate to 
himself that he is fightijig himself rather than his handler. In the pre- 
ceding example of handling the horse by his feet, and taking both front 
feet from him by the double persuader, we thereby stop him in further 
progress of locomotion, which, if persevered in will have a tendency to 
anger or discourage the horse. While we may like this method of taking 
the front feet from the horse in his very first lesson in harness, to 
convince him that at the word whoa, or in an attempt to run away with 
us, to rear or kick, we can at once demonstrate to him (without pain) 
that he is powerless to do so to any satisfactory degree, it also has its 
objectionable features, as we have before indicated; beyond the first 
short lesson, in which we should always use it to begin with, so as to be 
sure we have all the advantage on our side; after which we use the 
single persuader until the horse fully understands Vv^hat we wish him 
to do for us. 

PERSUASIVE INFLUENCE IS ALWAYS BETTER THAN 
BRUTE FORCE. 

We should not depend on the bit, and especially harsh bits, to control 
the young, ambitious, or even vicious horse, because, in his eagerness 
to get away, or do mischief, we are apt to injure his mouth to such a 
degree that it is ever after tender and sore, or so calloused that he is a 
"puller" (lugger) ever after. But if we apply our "persuasive" influ- 
ence as hereinafter described, all users will be pleased with its effect, 
and not take the chances of making a runaway, kicking, dangerous 
horse, in his primary lessons in harness. By the use of the "per- 
suader," we are enabled to make the horse a cripple for the time being, 
and yet not necessarily stop or hurt him, but impede his progress to 
such a degree that it is not really dangerous to his handler or encour- 
aging to the horse. 

If the horse proves to be a runaway, we let him run upon three legs 
instead of all four. If he is a kicker, he must stand on one front leg to 
do the most of his kicking. If he is restless and uneasy about stand- 
ing, we let him stand on three legs part the time. 

When we find we have a confirmed kicker it is best to attach bells, 
tin pans, a fourth of a sack of bran or other object to the crupper of the 



178 



HORSE SENSE. 



harness and let it hang down to the hocks or near there, and drive about 
without being hitched to a vehicle at first, as seen in cut No. 92. 




Cut No. 92. 
THE SINGLE "PERSUADER" APPLIED TO A KICKER. 

Note. — The rope from girth to pastern should show double and 
tied at the girth instead of at the foot, as in cut No. 92. See cut No. 
93, correctly applied. 

The cut represents the horse in the act of doing his utmost to rid 
himself from the bells attached to the crupper of his harness, before 
the persuader has actually been put into operation. The "persuader" is 
applied by having a strap around one front pastern only, then take the 
end of the small rope, and pass under the girth from the rear, down 
under the strap around the pastern and tie to the girth. See cut No. 92. 
With the confirmed kicker, we should give him the opportunity to kick 
once or twice, or even more, at the object attached to induce him to 
kick, before making it hard work for him by the use of the "per- 
suader." 

WHEN THE HORSE GETS WARM AND EXCITED, STOP TO 

COOL. 

As soon as the horse gets warmed up to his work in earnest, or 
starts to run, we pull on the rope which takes one front foot from 
him, so that he is compelled to balance himself on one foot while he 



HORSE SENSE. 



179 



does his kicking, which soon persuades him that he is making hard 
work of it for himself. Or, if he attempts to run and kick, he must 
do so on three legs, by which he is soon persuaded it is too hard work 
to be enjoyed. 

SINGLE PERSUADER BEST USED WITH THE HORSE GO- 
ING IN A CIRCLE. 

If he is -a powerful horse and starts to run and kick, we should 
always incline his head towards the opposite side from the leg that is 
held up, which induces him to run in as small a circle as possible, and 
by a sudden turn of the head he is very apt to fall broadside, which 
again persuades him he is making hard work of the kicking business, 
which must be the object to be attained in the correction of the kicker. 







. JlM>^ 



Cut No 93. 
THE SINGLE "PERSUADER" APPLIED TO THE RESTLESS. 

HORSE. 

The restless, uneasy and impatient horse can soon be persuaded to 
stand until we are ready to give him the word to move, by simply 
letting him stand on three legs a part of the time when he is most 
anxious to go. But as soon as he becomes at all quiet — even for a 
few seconds — he should have the benefit of all four of his feet, to assure 
him that we will give him this benefit if he will only be quiet. This is 
fairly well shown in cut No. 93. 

THE SINGLE PERSUADER IS FAR BETTER THAN KICKING 
STRAPS OR HIGH CHECKING. 

Mere preventives, such as kicking straps, high checking, etc., rarely 
ever cure the kicking habit. But if we would give the horse the 



180 



HORSE SENSE. 



opportunity to kick at something that cannot hurt him, and have him 
in such position that does not necessarily prevent him from kicking, 
but makes hard work of it, he is soon persuaded that he prefers to 
have anything hanging to him or hitting his heels, rather than work 
so hard to get rid of it and fail, too. 

EVERYTHING MUST BE SECURELY ATTACHED FOR SUC- 
CESS. 

Everything attached to the harness to induce the horse to show 
what his natural inclination is should be securely fastened, as every time 
he succeeds in getting rid of it is an evidence to the horse that he can 
accomplish his object if he only tries long enough, and he is perfectly 
willing to try as long as he sees any possibility of succeeding. 

DEMONSTRATING TO THE HORSE THAT HE CAN IN- 
STANTLY BE MADE A CRIPPLE. 

Now isn't it plain t"-iat if this is all done quietly, and without appar- 
ent effort, and not to simply annoy and tease the horse, that he wilt 
soon be persuaded that he is only working against himself, and conclude 
that he is doing a great amount of hard work for nothing? Isn't it also 
apparent, to even the casual observer, that if we can permit the horse to 
still keep going (though somewhat crippled in one leg) that he will 
be persuaded to go quietly, much sooner than he will if we take both 
front feet from him, which stops him from moving entirely? 




Cut No. 94. 

DRIVING THE KICKER DOUBLE WITH SINGLE PERSUAD- 
ER ATTACHED. 

Note. — The dotted line is to represent the rope drawn under the 
body of the horse to which it is attached and between the horses to the 
driver, and not on the outside, as the same would appear. 



HORSE SENSE. 



181 



HITCHING THE KICKER IN DOUBLE HARNESS TO WAGON. 
We neglected to state before that when we are ready to hitch the 
kicker to a vehicle, we prefer to first drive in double harness to wagon 
and be sure to have the "persuader" on the outside front foot, so 
that if he should fall at any time he will fall outwardly, instead of on the 
pole, and possibly break it. As a precautionary measure we should al- 
ways apply the "persuader" to every colt when first harnessed to a 
wagon or other vehicle, so as to persuade him, at once, that if he 
attempts to run or kick, that he must necessarily find it a hard under- 
taking. See cut No. 94. 

THE WILLFULLY VICIOUS KICKER. 

If the persuader and other means and methods fail to accomplish 
the desired results with the confirmed kicker, then we must try a 
means of self punishment that has never failed with this class of unruly 
horses. 

SELF PUNISHMENT AT THE VERY INSTANT OF THE VIO- 
LATION. 

Self punishment is valuable for the reason that the punishment is 
dealt out the very instant of the violation and at the other end, or front 
end of the horse, which naturally attracts his attention to the point of 
punishment with such force that he, as naturally, forgets what has 
transpired at the rear. The means to accomplish the work consists of 
one piece of one-fourth or five-sixteenths inch rope, about twelve or 




Cut No. 95. 
KICKING ATTACHMENT FOR SINGLE OR DOUBLE HAR. 

NESS. 



182 HORSE SENSE. 

fourteen feet long, and another piece of seven-sixteenths inch rope, about 
six feet long, a pulley, four straps one inch and one-fourth wide and 
about one foot long each, and two iron rings, one and one-half inches in 
diameter. 

First, thread the long rope through the .eye of the pulley, and the 
short rope around the pulley itself. Now, check the horse's head the de- 
sired height with a good, strong overhead check. Next draw the short 
rope backwardly from the front, and under the girth, so the pulley will 
rest just back of the girth, as shown in cut No. 95. 

Next, take the ends of the small rope, carry each to the rings of 
the bridle-bit, at either side, passing through the rings, from the out- 
side (which will bring the rope over the head, under the headstall of 
the bridle) and carry over the head, from each side, and pass through the 
rings again from the inside, and let them hang there until the balance 
of the attachment has been adjusted. First, by buckling the straps above 
and below the hocks and through the rings, as seen in cut No. 95. 
Then tie the larger and shorter rope into these rings at the hocks, 
by half hitches, so as to leave the pulley just back of the girth, and 
finish the adjustment by drawing the ropes moderately taut at the bit, 
and tie on either side by half hitches also, (which makes the rope 
easily untied, no matter how tight drawn) and we are ready for the 
first trial. 

GIVE THE FIRST LESSON WITH ONLY THE HARNESS ON 

THE HORSE. 

We should always commence the first lesson with only the harness 
and reins, because the first kick may be a terrible ane; but, in all 
probability, it will be the last severe one, as it will never be forgotten 
iby the horse. We will naturally be asked, why? It is for the reason 
that when the hind legs are' forced backward, the rope over the head 
has drawn the bit so far up into the angles of the mouth, and holds 
it there, that the horse forgets what happened at the rear, from the 
fact that he is into so much trouble at his front end (the mouth). 

EVERY TIME THE HORSE KICKS HE SHOULD BE RE- 
LIEVED AT THE MOUTH. 

It should be our duty to go to the horse's head and draw the bit 
down into the mouth away from the angles, and caress him, immediately 
after a hard kick, satisfying him that notwithstanding he got himself into 
trouble, we are charitable enough to help him out of it. If, by the 
iirst kick, any part of the kicking attachment has been broken, it should 
]be repaired before relieving the horse at the head. This attachment is 
;applicable to either single or double harness, the wagon, plow or other 
\vehicle; but we should never hitch a kicking horse to any kind of 
•vehicle where he can injure himself or break the carriage, until we are 
.satisfied that he knows better than to kick hard, at least. 



HORSE SENSE. 



183 



GAN TRAVEL ABOUT AS WELL WITH AS WITHOUT THIS 
> ATTACHMENT. 
With this kicking attachment the horse can walk, trot or pace, 
but cannot run to much purpose, for when the hind legs are brought 
backward together it must produce an effect on the mouth; whereas 
the movements of walking, trotting or pacing move one leg at a time; 
the leg rope plays back and forth, threw^i the pulley, without any appre- 
ciable efifect on the mouth. 

Except in a very straight hock, the straps will stay in their places, 
especially if both upper atid lower straps are of the proper length to 
allow the ring to draw from the center of the hock. But if there is an 
inclination to drop down below the hock, a string or strap from the 
hock-band to the back strap will keep them in place. 
ALWAYS CARRY THE SMALL ROPES OVER THE HORSE'S 
HEAD BEFORE TYING. _^r 

The reader may wonder why we want to pass, the long, small rope 
up over the horse's head and tie into the bit-ring on the opposite side; 
but will naturally say to himself, it is just as well to tie to the bit-ring 
on either side, instead of going to the trouble of passing it over the head 
and tying on the other side. 

NEVER TIE THE ROPE DIRECTLY FROM UNDER THE 
BODY TO THE BIT. 
If the rope is tied directly to the bit-ring, and the horse should kick 
hard, he will certainly bruise his mouth badly, and may break the bit and 
get his freedom; whereas, if the rope is passed over the head, as directed, 
the hard kick draws the bit up into the angles of the mouth so tightly 
that the pressure continues until relief is brought to the horse by his 
handler pulling the bit down into the mouth, which, if done in the spirit 
of kindness, will soon satisfy the horse that it don't pay to kick any 
more. Its use should be persevered in for a considerable time. 
A MODIFICATION OF THE LAST NAMED APPLICATION 
FOR THE KICKER. 
Before trusting the kicker without any appliance to prevent him 
from kicking, it is a good plan to use a halter under the bridle with 
tie-strap of minimum strnegth only (one that can be easily broken) 
and attach this strap to the eye of the pulley, back of the girth, a little 
shorter than the ropes of the headstall of the bridle, so that any ten- 
sion from the head to the hind legs will come on the nose-band of the 
halter instead of the mouth. And if the horse should make an efifort to 
kick, the halter-strap will break and the effect on the mouth will be 
just the same through the medium of the ropes to the mouth as before. 
THE HALTER ATTACHMENT FOR SUBSEQUENT USE AND 
ITS BENEFITS. 
After the horse has become acquainted with the additional halter 
attachment to that of the ropes to the mouth, the rope part to the 



184 HORSE SENSE. 

mouth may be discontinued and only the halter method used, as seen 
in cut No. 96. 




Cut No. ^6. 
HALTER ATTACHMENT FOR KICKER, TROTTER, PACER OR 

RUNAWAY. 

To use this to the best advantage, a <good strong over-head check 
rein must be of the first consideration, next a strong halter, a pulley as 
used in the former attachment for the confirmed kicker as seen at (a) 
in the cut, and supporting strap from the hock-band to the back strap 
of the harness, to keep the hock-strap in position. Now if everything 
is strong and the hock-bands v^rell protected with felt or sheep-skin wool 
to protect the skin from chafing, we are in good shape for correcting 
many of the bad habits of the horse, such as bolting, breaking in 
trotting and pacing, kickitig or running. As long as the legs of the 
horse are working alternately, everything will be running smoothly; but 
the instant they act simultaneously the horse "gets it in the neck." That 
is, every time the horse breaks his gait or kicks, the effect is instantly felt 
in the neck from the sudden pull on the halter, which the horse very 
soon learns to respect and consequently behave himself as a good horse 
should, without punishment from his driver. It is a part of his harness, 
and always works at the opposite end of the animal with the most em- 
phasis, and without a movement on the part of the driver. It is not 
as unsightly and is less dangerous to the horse than hobbles. To be ap- 
preciated it must be properly used. 

CLOSING INJUNCTION. 

Before closing our remarks in regard to all the preceding ap- 
pliances for the sure and safe education of our horses, we would again 
impress on the reader's mind that a knowledge of the methods are of 
more importance than to know how to make and adjust the means. 
They go hand in hand and they must be used humanely, or the objects 
aimed at will be utter failures. We naturally consider these the very 
best appliances, properly used, to persuade the horse to become man's 
willing servant, that we have ever had anything to do with. They can 
be used without scarcely any inconvenience to the action of the horse, 
and, if required, can be put into immediate effect with the very best 
results. 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 

THE SWITCHER AND LINE CATCHER. 

The rein catcher, with the tail, is often a dangerous character, not- 
withstanding he, or she, may otherwise be a very valuable animal. 

NEVER PULL THE LINE SUDDENLY FROM UNDER THE 
TAIL OF THE HORSE. 

It is very bad policy to try to suddenly pull the rein from under the 
horse's tail whenever caught by accident or purposely. But if it is pos- 
sible to let the rein loose, or the tail can be lifted from ofif the rein 
quietly by the hand, the animal may soon recover from any nervousness 
in consequence. 

NEVER FIGHT OR PUNISH THE LINE CATCHER AND 

SWITCHER. 

It too often happens that the mischief is done by some unthinking or 
inexperienced driver, and the animal ever afterward rendered dangerous 
or at least troublesome, to say the least, by punishment for this act of 
catching the line. 

Mares are generally worse than geldings, and, while they have 
free use of the tail, may constantly keep trying to catch the rein under 
the tail. 

NO CHANCES SHOULD BE TAKEN WITH THE CONFIRMED 

SWITCHER. 

When the habit of catching the rein with the tail has become a 
constant practice, we should endeavor to prevent it by tying into a por- 
tion of the hair of the tail, a little above the terminal end of the tail 
bone, the middle portion of a string of sufficient length to extend the 
tugs, or traces on either side, and securely tie, as shown in cut No. 97. 

TIE THE HORSE'S TAIL TO THE SHAFTS OR TRACES TO 
PREVENT SWITCHING. 

The strings to the tugs or shafts should be drawn taut to begin with, 
and, as the animal becomes used to the rein, it may, from time to time, 
be tied more loosely. 

It will thus be seen that it is impossible for the animal to se- 
curely catch and hold the rein with the tail where this device is used; 
and, by gently dropping the rein from side to side, without teasing the 
animal, we will soon establish confidence between us and the animal, 
and the habit is eventually forgotten. The author once used the de- 



186 



HORSE SENSE. 



vice a whole summer on a very nervous mare before she entirely gave 
it up. Prevention and confidence must be established before the habit is 
broken up. 




Cut No. 97. 
PREVENTION AND PROBABLE CURE OF THE SWITCHER. 

The tie in the tail should be made with only a small portion of the 
hair on the under side of the tail, about the size of a pencil, to that of 
the size of the finger. 

TYING THE SWITCHER'S TAIL UP OVER THE BACK. 

When the nervous switcher will not quit the habit of switching, 
we can often efifect a cure by tying the tail up over the back, as 




Cut No. 

THE SWITCHER WITH THE TAIL TIED UP OVER THE 

BACK. 



HORSE SENSE. 187 

represented in cut No. 98, which is done by tying the knot in the tail 
as heretofore mentioned in handling the horse by his tail or rather, in 
picketing the pair of horses. 

Take a small piece of rope about eight feet long and double it, 
tying the double end into the tail so it can be easily untied. Tie the ends 
of the rope to each of the hame tugs or at the collar about even, so as 
to hold the tail just over the back, and draw dov/n quite tight, so as to 
make considerable strain on the cords of the tail, and to secure them 
in place, it is a good plan to put a circingle over the ropes and fasten 
around the body. 

MUSCLES TOO SORE FOR MUCH MOVEMENT OF THE TAIL. 

From half an hour to two hours is generally sufficient to remind 
the horse that his tail is too much strained to do much of a job of 
switching, and in this 'way he will often forget or quit the habit. 

CARE MUST BE TAKEN WITH THE NERVOUS MARE ABOUT 
THE LINES AND TAIL. 

Too much care cannot be exercised in handling nervous mares 
about the line getting under the tail, and whenever it happens to be 
caught, either stop and remove it gently, or slacken the line so it will 
drop from under the tail. We cannot afford to jerk it out and take the 
chances of spoiling an otherwise valuable animal. "An ounce of pre- 
vention is worth a pound of cure." "A stitch in time saves nine." Too 
often we "lock the stable door after the horse is stolen, "For the want 
of a nail the shoe is lost" — a yank at the line and a stroke of the whip 
in haste, often gives room for repentance at leisure. 



CHAPTER XXXVII. 

THE BALKY HORSE. 

From the heading, every reader will naturally say to himself: "Well, 
now you have introduced a subject in which we are all interested, and 
from the varied experiences with men and horses, we all want to know 
more about." 

WHAT IS A BALKY HORSE? 

A balky horse is one that has been badly handled or overloaded. 
His shoulders are sore or he is discouraged, disgusted, or prevented 
from going when he wanted to, and naturally says to himself, "you have 
stopped me, now I will go when I get ready." Here we are, and the ques- 
tion is, "what are we going to do about it?" Well, most people will begin 
to whip, yell, yank and pound the poor horse, and so confuse him that he 
loses what horse sense he had and stands there like a post, puts his 
head over the other horse, or, throwing himself to the ground, breaks 
some part of the harness or wagon, and thus gains his point in a large 
majority of cases. 

MOST BALKY HORSES ARE MADE FROM ONE OR MORE OF 
THREE CAUSES. 

Horses are generally made balky in one of three ways, and sometimes 
all three, viz.: Overloading, going with a heavy load until the horse 
is out of breath, exhausted, discouraged and disgusted with the treat- 
ment of his driver; by badly fitting collars, sore shoulders, improper 
draught of the collar, pulling too high or too low on the shoulder, etc. 

THE HIGH STRUNG, NERVOUS HORSE MUST BE TREATED 
VERY KINDLY. 

Horses are made balky by punishment in the mouth with the bit 
when the horse is disposed to go, preventing him from starting when he 
would go off quietly, by "yanking" the horse back from time to time, 
when he would go ahead, until, when the driver is ready for the start, 
the horse has concluded that he dare not try it again on account of 
the punishment by the bit, when he absolutely refuses to go when 
asked. 

PUNISHMENT AND CONFUSION OFTEN MAKES BALKY 

HORSES. 

When the balky horse has stopped is the time the fatal mistake is 
generally made, by the use of the whip at the rear end of the horse, 



HORSE SENSE. 



189 



and while he naturally would go ahead by the tap of the whip on the 
rump, he now acts under the impression that he is not to be per- 
mitted to go ahead from the treatment he had in the mouth, and now 
that the punishment is coming at the rear, he says by his actions, "what 
am I to do now?" and in his confused condition he generally rears up 
and throws himself, breaking the harness or wagon. 

BAD MANAGEMENT IS A FRUITFUL CAUSE OF BALKING: 

Who is to blame with the balker? Ninety-nine times out of one 
hundred .it is the result of bad management, in the first place by the 
driver, consequently the old adage that "balky horses are made by 
balky drivers." 

REMEDY FOR BALKY HORSES. 

Before giving the r-emedy, it will be well to repeat the law governing 
the horse, to-wit: Whatever happens at the front of the horse, impels 
him backward; and that at the rear sends him forward. Now we must 
take advantage of this law in applying the remedy to the balky horse. 
Instead of the usual confusion, excitement and punishment, we should 
quietly get down from the wagon and caress the balky horse as though 
nothing was wrong. We should then take a rope or strap strong 
enough to draw the load, and from eight to ten feet long, with the short 
end toward us. Then we should lay the rope or strap across the tail of 
the horse, just below the end of the tail bone, about three feet from the 
end of the rope or strap; now turn all the hair of the tail back toward 
the body of the horse, holding the same with the left hand. Reach under 
the tail and grasp the long part of the rope or strap with the right hand, 
bring it around the tail and tuck it under that part of the tail double, as 




Cut No. 99. 
THE BALKY HORSE HITCHED FOR THE START. 



190 



HORSE SENSE. 



shown in cut No. 65, where we were hitching the horse's head and tail 
together. It is the same character of knot. 

As soon as the knot in the tail is drawn firmly, we should tie the 
short end of the rope or strap to the end of the evener (double tree), 
with the tugs (traces) slack; then we must quietly get into the wagon, 
taking the long end of the rope or strap with us, as is well shown in 
cut 99, ready for the start 

When we are all ready to start (not before) we should touch the oth- 
er horse with the whip or rein for a sudden start, which pulls on the other 
fellow's tail, and he wonders what has so suddenly happened to him 
at the rear end, which induces him to at once move forward without 
further ceremony, which is very nicely represented in cut No. 100. 




Cut No. 100. 
THE BALKY HORSE PULLING BY HIS TAIL. 

He naturally says to himself, "this is a new attachment, and by the 
law of my being I must go forward," which is the desired direction, and 
we should make no complaint. 

KEEP THE HORSE PULLING BY THE TAIL UNTIL SATIS- 
FIED TO GO WITHOUT. 

We must keep the horse pulling by his tail until he becomes fairly 
reconciled to that way of drawing and going steadily, when we should 
quietly pull on the rope or strap we have in the wagon, which releases his 
tail and permits him to pull in the usual manner without stopping. 

ALWAYS UNTIE THE TAIL WHEN GOING DOWN GRADE. 

The untying of the tail should be done while the horse is in mo- 
tion, while going down grade, and if he does not appreciate the change 
and should stop, we must again get down, as quietly as before, and 



HORSE SENSE. 



191 



keep it up much longer, repeating as often as necessary, until the horse 
decides that he prefers to draw the loads by his shoulders, rather than 
his tail, as shown in cut No. loi. 




Cut No. loi. 
THE HORSE CHEERFULLY DECIDES TO DO THE WORK 
FROM THE SHOULDERS. 

The object in writing is twofold; first, to rive a more complete de- 
scription of the means, and especially tho mclhcds, than has hereto- 
fore been observed by other writers on the subject; second, to be able, 
at least to a degree, to ameliorate the sufrcrinr;s cf cur horses in the 
hands of those who would treat them more humanely if ihey only knew 
the means and methods by which they could effectively do so in an in- 
telligent manner. We must not charge the abuse of our liorses entirely 
to the naturally cruel dispositions of their handlers, but to a want of 
the proper means and methods, a'.so,' to the inherited impression in 
man that the horse is only a brute to be driven, driven, driven, without 
giving this noble servant credit for scarcely any of his innate intelligence. 

The close attention given this subject by the author for more than 
forty years, and a study of the natural laws by which the horse can be 
made as obedient and useful an animal as treads the earth, though the 
means and methods of his education, is the reason for dwelling on the 
humanitarian side of the question. 

The author confidently believes that when the young men of today 
fully understand the underlying principles of horse sense, that our equine 
friends will be handled more humanely, and there will be a better under- 
standing between men and horses. 

Note. — An old Mexican method of drawing loads, and especially the 
plow, by the tail of animals, was brought out at a Farmers' Institute 



192 



HORSE SENSE. 



at Hagerstown, Md., while the author was talking on this important sub- 
ject, through a Mr. Daniel Reichard, who had traveled extensively and 
had seen many methods of handling horses. He said "he had seen many 
horses and mules in Mexico drawing the old crude wooden plows hitched 
only by their tails to the beam of the plow." And once while riding 
with a Mexican in Texas on horseback, they came across a darkey, who 
with his mule were stuck in the mud and both discouraged. After many 
attempts to get out of the dilemma, he said the Mexican asked the 
darkey if he would like him to help him out of the difficulty. The darkey 
replied that he would like his help very much, but he could not see how 
he could pull him out "without a harness on his boss." He said the 
Mexican took his lariat and tied a similar knot with it in his horse's 
tail; then tied the other end to the shaft of the darkey's cart; told the 
darkey to make his mule pull his best when ready. The Mexican got on 
his horse, gave the word, and by the use of his spurs, his horse pulled 
cart, mule and darkey out of the difficulty by the tail, before the mule 
had time to straighten himself in the harness. To the surprise of the 
author, Mr. Reichard stepped forward and tied the knot with the 
familiarity of an old hand at the business. 




Cut No. 102. 

A PAIR OF HORSES CONNECTED WITH EACH OTHER AT 

BOTH ENDS. 



HORSE SENSE. 193 

IMPORTANCE OF KEEPING A TEAM OF HORSES FROM 

SEPARATING. 

In the commencement of the handling of wild horses in harness, 
one of the first considerations is to keep the team in close contact with 
each other. Never let a team of horses get in such position that they 
can act independently of each other, or we are in trouble at once if 
they are so disposed. By having a good strong neck strap on each 
horse with a coupling connection, we are enabled to hold the front ends 
of the horses as close together as we desire, and by connecting the tails 
with rope or strap (with the character of knots heretofore described in 
picketing horses on the prairie, cut No. 70), we are able to keep the 
rear ends of the horses at any required distance. See cut No. 102. 

When the horses are securely connected as described, we can take 
hold of the lines and drive them with the harness only at first. It is al- 
ways better in the begifining to use an old steady horse with the newly 
captured one, so that the experienced horse can act as a teacher for the 
inexperienced. After driving about for a short time, and stopping and 
starting frequently so that the new ho';s, may learn what this means, 
they may be attached to a log, stone-boat or sled and driven about to 
this for a sufficient time to get them accustomed to pulling and working 
together; then they may be hitched to a heavy wagon with rub-lock, so 
that in case the rattle of the wagon frightens the young pupil we can 
make the draft sufficient to regulate the speed as we may desire. 

THERE IS ALWAYS A WAY IF WE WILL GIVE THE MAT- 
TER DUE CONSIDERATION. 

Many of the readers of Horse Sense may think there is entirely too 
much stress placed upon the security of our horses in the beginning of 
their education (in youth and maturity), but it is far better to provide 
against accidents than to try to correct bad habits after once acquired. 
We should always keep in mind the natural lav/s governing the actions 
of our horses and then, knowing the greater strength of the horse to 
that ci man, we must provide against probabilities as well as possibilities. 



CHAPTER XXXVIIl. 

MISCHIEF IN THE HORSE'S STOMACH. 

We sincerely hope that the reader will feel that we are fully justified 
in our frequent references to the welfare of our horses, and the ad- 
vantages to their owners of breeding, feeding and general care, also in 
urging the desirability of keeping them in a healthy and vigorous con- 
dition. 

The most common fault in dealing with the horse, and particularly 
his stomach, and probably the most mischievous and detrimental, is in 
giving water just after a full feed of grain. Grain, unlike hay, has to 
undergo gastric digestion in the stomach, where the nitrogenous ele- 
ments have to be taken care of, and if, by the addition of water, the 
grain is forced from the stomach into the bowels before this character of 
digestion is accomplished, the food is practically lost. 

TOO MUCH WATER AFTER FEEDING IS A GREAT MIS- 
CHIEF MAKER. 

Excessive draughts of cold water after feeding is a great mischief 
maker, producing vascular congestion, and frequently violent muscular 
contractions. It lowers the temperature, and otherwise intereferes with 
•digestion, and naturally tends to promote disorders of a dangerous char- 
acter. At particular times a copious drink of water of only moderate 
temperature is full of mischief. 

It is a good plan to always allay the thirst of the horse before giving 
grain, and if any water is given after feeding, it should be but a few, and 
only a few, swallows, until the digestion of the stomach is completed. 

TAKE WATER TO THE FIELD FOR THE HORSE AS WELL 

AS THE MEN. 

When the farmer is working in the fields, the horse generally is 
obliged to go from morning until noon, and from noon until night, 
without water, when his driver is very careful to provide himself with 
plenty of drinking water, and takes it often; never thinking that the 
mute horse is suffering more than he would, if he had forgotten to pro- 
vide for himself. A five-gallon keg, or one that will hold more, and 
a pail, should be provided from which to give the horse an occasional 
small drink of water, which would be as fully appreciated by the horse as 
the driver's drink is by him, and is but little trouble to take to the. 
field. 



HORSE SENSE. 195 

THOUSANDS OF HORSES DIE ANNUALLY FROM TOO 
MUCH WATER AT A TLME. 

Thousands of horses die every summer from the effects of drinking 
too much cold water, after having to go so long a time before being sup- 
plied with that natural and necessary beverage. 

DIETING HORSES. 

The secret of feeding horses to advantage is to keep their appetites 
and digestion (which are very closely allied) in perfect condition; and 
to do this is to study closely the differences in likes and "dislikes in the 
tastes and relish of each individual animal, some having very marked 
preferences for one article of food, and strong dislikes for others, one 
horse doing well and thriving on some foods, while others will fall off in 
flesh on the same diet. 

HORSES HAVE AN AVERSION TO FOOD OR DRINK OF A 
GREASY NATURE. 

Almost all horses have an aversion to food or drink of a greasy- 
nature, and yet there is occasionally one that will go to the swill bar- 
rel and fill up on its contents of every character. 

SOME HORSES CAN BE TAUGHT TO EAT TOBACCO AND 
DRINK ALCOHOL. 

Some horses can be taught to consume tobacco and even alcoholic 
drinks, and as a stimulant the latter has been used to a considerable ex- 
tent for faint-hearted racehorses. But the administration of stimulants is 
not to be commended, as a rule. 

HAY AND GRAIN REGULARLY BETTER THAN CONDITION 

POWDERS. 

Good, clean grain and hay, with water at regular intervals and in 
moderate quantities, is the best for all horses, and when so treated, there 
is rarely any call for stimulants or appetizing foods, such as condition 
powders, and a long '^'ne of appetizers, blood regulators, etc., so freely 
advertised. , 

DRUGGING HORSES. 

Among the most pernicious ideas which possess the minds of many 
farmers and would-be horsemen is the notion that almost any one can 
"doctor a horse;" that some kind of medicine must be given to every one 
upon the least symptom of disease; and that, when he is well and thrifty, 
some drugs must be given him now and then to keep him so. The reader 
will not have to strain his thinker very badly to recall some one who 
believes that good feed, exercise and comfortable quarters are not nearly 
so essential to health and thrift as a few doses of condition powders, 
given occasionally; that foul water and no salt is all right, if he has a: 
little sulphur and copperas once in awhile. 



196 HORSE SENSE. 

PROPENSITY TO USE DRUGS WITH OUR HORSES. 

One of the most unaccountable traits in the makeup of many men 
is the propensity to drug animals, and to be deluded by the bostful pre- 
tensions of ignorant vendors of nostrums, warranted to cure all ills, 
restore shattered constitutions and be a perfect substitute for good, 
wholesome food and proper, humane treatment. 

MEDICINES RIGHT AND PROPER IN THEIR PLACE. 

No one will deny that medicine in the hands of one competent to 
make a correct diagnosis and skillfully administer the same (when the 
horse is sick) is a powerful agent for relieving a majority of all the ills 
to which the horse is subject. 

DRUGS HIGHLY INJURIOUS, WHEN NOT SKILLFULLY 

HANDLED. 

The point we are trying to make is that medicine not skillfully 
handled is highly injurious, even dangerous, and, with the exception of a 
few simple remedies, should be given only by a skilled veterinarian. 

IT IS FOLLY TO EXPERIMENT WITH DRUGS ON THE 

HORSE. 

A most inexcusable folly is that of experimenting with drugs on the 
horse every time he shows some trifling ailment. Yet this is not a very 
uncommon practice in dealing with the sick horse. If the animal dies 
tinder the treatment, as it does sometimes, the owner consoles himself 
with the reflection that he tried everything he could hear of, and did his 
best to save the horse. If, by some happy circumstance, the horse over- 
comes both the disease and the bungling treatment, the owner pats him- 
self on the back and believes he is a natural "hoss doctor." 

THOUSANDS RELIEVED BY SKILL, AND MORE KILLED BY 

BUNGLERS. 

Thousands of diseased horses are relieved by our skilled veterin- 
arians, but a good many more are killed outright by bunglers, who 
try to practice a profession they know nothing about. Others are in- 
jured and some ruined by constant dosing with quack nostrums and 
cure-alls. 

REST WHEN AILING, GOOD TREATMENT WHEN SICK AND 
LET ALONE WHEN WELL. 

With rest, quiet and proper surroundings, nature will correct her 
own slight disorders. Use judgment and discretion in cases of emer- 
gency requiring treatment. If the case is serious, leave the treatment 
to one skilled in that line. But above all, when the horse is well and 
thrifty leave him alone. 

DRENCHING HORSES. 

Whenever it is necessary to give fluid medicines to horses, it should 
rbe done in the most convenient and humane manner. Too often it is 



HORSE SENSE. 



197 



seen that the horse's head is drawn up high, by throwing the halter 
strap over a beam in the barn, holding the jaws together by pulHng on 
the under jaw, and then pour half the prescribed dose into the horse's 
mouth and pound him on the throat to get him to swallow. By this 
method, every move is in opposition to the natural instincts of the ani- 
mal. The jaw-strap of the halter has the efifect of holding the mouth 
closed from its pressure on the under jaw. The pounding or pinching 
of the throat also tends to the contraction of the muscles of the neck 
and operates against the horse swallowing. Now it should always be 
remembered that any pressure on the horse's palate (roof of the mouth) 
induces him to open his mouth and hold it open as long as this pressure 
is made. The illustration shows a very simple and effective manner of 
handling the horse's head while giving fluid medicines. The picture shows 
for itself. See cut No. '103. 




Cut No. 103. 
PRACTICAL METHOD OF DRENCHING THE HORSE. 

A small rope the size of a clothes line , slipped under the nose-band 
of the halter and into the horse's mouth and lifted high enough so that 
the medicine will gravitate back in the mouth, will answer about as 



198 



HORSE SENSE. 



well as drawing it over a beam. Either will answer this purpose, but 
instead of pounding the horse on the throat to get him to swallow, 
just tickle him a little with the neck of the bottle in the roof of the 
mouth and give time for the horse to close his mouth, and he will take 
the medicine very readily in the majority of cases. Don't strain the head 
too high as that very much interferes with swallowing. 

CHEAP AND PRACTICAL SYRINGE. 

Since it is well known that injections for the horse per rectum are 
about as valuable as those given per mouth, it is important that every 
horse owner provide himself with one of these inexpensive instruments. 
It consists of an ordinary tin funnel, to be had at any hardware store. 




Cut No. 104. 
GIVING MEDICINE BY INJECTION. . 

and a piece of rubber tubing of just sufficient size to be stretched over 
the spout of the funnel. The rubber tubing is to be oiled and inserted 
into the rectum from four inches to one foot, and then the funnel lifted as 
high above the horse's back as the tubing will allow, and then the med- 
icine or injection material is to be poured into the funnel and let it 
gravitate into the bowels, as shown in cut No. 104. 

WATCH THE HORSE'S FEET. 

Too much care cannot be taken of the feet. It is much easier to 
keep the feet sound than to cure them after they have become injured 
by neglect or carelessness. 

If your horses' feet have become hard, soak them in water, or ap- 
ply a poultice of fiax seed. A pad made of a piece of an old blanket, 
or some woolen cloth, thoroughly wet and fastened around the hoof, will 
allay fever and keep the feet in good condition. . 

WHERE TO FEED THE HORSE GRAIN. 

The most natural position for the horse's food to occupy when he 
is eating, it is on the ground. In ordinary cases, it is certainly the one 



« HORSE SENSE. 199 

which is the most conducive to his health, because it obliges him to eat 
more slowly, offers more facilities for the saliva to flow from the salivary 
glands into the mouth, and gives more exercise to the muscles. 

DRINKING WATER FOR HORSES. 

Horses are so fastidious as to the quality of their drinking water, 
and grooms are often so careless of this fact, that we feel certain it is a 
mistake to have a fixed water vessel alongside of a horse, which, we 
may be quite sure, will not be cleaned out as frequently as necessary. 
Observation convinces us that when a horse has a basin or bucket of 
water constantly in front of him, he will undoubtedly slaver into it and 
foul it, so that its inner surface will soon be covered with mucous and 
dirt, which will not be always cleaned away by the groom, even if he 
be careful enough to' keep the vessel constantly full. When the re- 
ceptacle is a fixture, the cleaning-out process can be accomplished only 
with difficulty. 

THE HAY MANGER. 

The hay receptacle should never take the form of the old-fashioned 
hay-rack, which is placed high up, and which consequently is not an 
uncommon indirect cause of inflammation of the eyes, from irritating 
particles dropping out of the hay into them. Besides, with these hay- 
racks, many horses get into the idle and provoking habit of pulling out 
the hay, irrespective of their desire to eat it, until all the hay they have 
not consumed is scattered over the floor, and more or less "messed" 
about. 

MANGE IN HORSES. 

This annoying disease is characterized by irritation and itching of 
the skin, causing the horse to rub himself whenever the opportunity 
offers. There are several kinds of this disease, but nearly all may be 
relieved, and generally cured, by removing the scabs with a brush, soap 
and warm water, and then applying a strong decoction of tobacco, 
which can be made by putting one and a half to two ounces of tobacco 
in one quart of water. The operation should be repeated in about two 
weeks, to destroy the new brood. The barn and stalls should be white- 
washed. The parts generally affected are at the roots of the hair of 
the mane, along the back and tail, head and sometimes the heels and 
lower portions of the legs. 

FATIGUE, A CAUSE FOR DISEASE. 

If a horse is tired when he comes to the barn we should not water 
him immediately, nor should we give him a feed, but first allow him to 
become rested. 

The following methods should be observed in feeding and water- 
ing horses: 

Avoid sudden change in the kind of food. 

Avoid sudden changes from whole food to ground food, and vice 
versa. 

Limit the quantity of food to what can be easily and thoroughly di- 
gested. 

Water before feeding. 

Never feed or water a horse when exhausted or very tired. 



CHAPTER XXXIX. 

MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 

It is not intended to make Horse Sense to any special degree a 
veterinary work, but there are a few recipes that have been found to be 
excellent in the majority of cases, and for the convenience of those in- 
terested, a limited number are given in the hope that they will meet 
the wants of its readers. 

REMEDY FOR COLIC. 

We should give these cautiously, as conditions alter cases to that 

extent that remedies should be varied to meet the conditions. One of 
the first remedies is ginger. Take about half a teacupful of powdered 
Jamaica ginger, pour on cold water till the cup is full, stir thoroughly 
after a minute or so, and then gradually add hot water until it is about 
as warm as the horse can stand. Give as a drench. Immediately after- 
ward, if there is a tendency to bloat, put a heaping teaspoonful of salera- 
tus in half a pint of warm water and give to the animal. This will correct 
any acid condition of the stomach or intestines, and often relieves bloat- 
ing at once. Injections of warm water and soap will be found a relief 
for the difficulty. If the colic is due to over-feeding, give raw linseed 
oil. If the horse is of ordinary size, say 1,200 pounds weight, then give 
a quart to a quart and a half, and if he weighs from 1,400 to 1,600 pounds, 
then give from a quart and a half to two quarts. It will be found the 
above method of treating colic is as efifective as using the most expen- 
sive drugs, providing the treatment is begun in the earliest stages of tha 
disease. 

COLIC REMEDY. 

Carbonate ammonia I drachm. 

Tincture Ginger i ounce. 

Water i Pint. 

Mix and drench the horse. If the acid or gas exists in the bowels, 
substitute lime water for the ammonia and add half an ounce of tincture 
Gentian. When the carbonate of ammonia is not at hand bi-carbonate 
of soda will answer. The addition of injections will be a great help in 
relieving the bowels of gas and fecal matter. Soap-suds as an injection 
will be indicated in almost all cases. If the above remedy does not give 



HORSE SENSE: 201 

relief in half an hour, it will be well to give the following every three 
hours until it operates: 

Turpentine I ounce. 

Raw linseed oil i quart. 

Mix and give at one dose. Then follow up with the first named colic 
remedy above, every hour until the horse is comfortable and eating. 

FLATULENT COLIC. 

Powdered grains of paradise i teaspoonful 

Powdered caraway seeds Yi teaspoonful 

Oil peppermint 20 drops 

Powdered slippery elm i tablespoonful 

Hot water i pint 

Mix, give one dose and repeat if necessary. It is perfectly harmless. 
If the disease proves a complicated one, no time should be lost in 
calling a competent veterinarian. 

DIARRHEA— SCOURS. 

Powdered ginger (African) 3 drachms 

Powdered charcoal 2 drachms 

Flour gruel I pint 

Oil peppermint 20 drops 

Mix and give at one dose, which may be repeated in six hours if the 
disease is not checked. We should not be in too great a hun-y to stop 
the diarrhea or we will be in greater trouble. If the liver is involved in 
the difficulty, we may give a few doses of the following: 

Powdered gentian 2 ounces 

Powdered ginger (African) i ounce 

Salt I ounce 

Mix and give in half ounce doses twice a day. The first may answer 
the purpose, but it may require both to accomplish a cure. 

SCOURS IN THE YOUNG FOAL. 
This is a matter of more than passing notice. The young foal is 
dependent on its dam for all the food it gets, consequently our attention 
should be to the feed and care of the mother of the colt rather than the 
colt itself. If the food is not sufr.ciently nourishing for the requirements 
of both, it will first show in the colt. But if the food for the mare is 
. generous and she is a glutton in both eating and drinking, the colt is 
very apt to have an attack of the scours, and instead of treating the co'.t 
for the disease, we should cut down on the feed and drink of the mare, 
and the trouble will soon be over with. Sometimes, limiLing the water 
supply to the mare will be all that is necessary to relieve the colt of 
scours. A raw c:;:g broken in the mouth of the colt and swallowed is 
beneficial, but will not relieve the difficulty without attention to the feed 
and drink of the dam. 

SLAVERING. 

Powdered bayberry bark i ounce 

Powdered gum myrrh I ounce 

Powdered goldenseal i ounce 

Powdered ginger I ounce 

Powdered sulphur i ounce 

Mix and divide into eight powders, giving one (in fine feed) night 



202 • HORSE SENSE. 

and morning. In some cases it may be necessary to use astringent mouth 
washes, composed of bayberry bark, witch-hazel, alum, etc., either of 
which is good where astringents are indicated. 

PREPARATION FOR THE EXPULSION OF BOTS. 

Powdered male fern 2 ounces 

Powdered aloes i ounce 

Powdered poplar bark 4 ounces 

White mustard seed 2 ounces 

Common salt 6 ounces 

Mix and divide into eighteen doses, giving one each night and morn- 
ing in the feed. If the horse can have the advantage of some green food, 
the better. 

The nits or eggs from which the bots derive their start is deposited 
by the female Gad-fly upon the front legs of horses principally, and they 
can be removed by greasing the hair of the legs and then rubbing with 
a coarse cloth, or washing with warm water. 

THE HORSE'S STOMACH THE NATURAL HOME OF THE 

EOT. 

Now please don't take it for granted that this remedy is given for the 
expulsion of the bots, because we believe that they injure or disease the 
horse in the least. But it is given to satisfy those people who are sure 
that bots are a very dangerous enemy to the health of the horse. The 
preparation is one that will do no harm if it does not remove all of the 
bots, and as good for the purpose as anything that we know of. 

INDIGESTION. 

Powdered ginger (African) 2 ounces 

Powdered poplar bark - 2 ounces 

Powdered asaf oetida 2 ounces 

Powdered sulphate iron 5 drachms 

Powdered capsicum i drachm 

Oat-meal i pound 

Mix, divide into sixteen parts, giving one each night in the feed. 

WORM REMEDY. 

Powdered wormseed 2 ounces 

Powdered mandrake 2 ounces 

Powdered sulphur 2 ounces 

Powdered ginger (African) 2 ounces 

Powdered charcoal 2 ounces 

White mustard seed (whole) 2 ounces 

Salt 2 ounces 

Powdered poplar bark i pound 

Mix and divide into twenty powders, and give one night and morn- 
ing in the feed. This will improve the health of the horse and have 
a tendency to expel the worms. 

Note. — Many of the so-called worm remedies are not reliable for all 
cases and character of worms. If they are small worms, injections of salt 
water or decoction of quassa chips will remove them. 



HORSE SENSE. 203 

>WORM MEDICINE. 

Turpentine I ounce 

Raw linseed oil 6 ounces 

Mix and give at one dose, repeat once a week for three weeks. 

INJECTION FOR PIN WORMS. 

Aloes I ounce 

Hot water i quart 

Mix by dissolving the aloes in the water and when blood warm use 
as an injection. This has an effect on the worms and inclines the horse 
to evacuate the bowels. 

DRY COUGH. 

Marsh mallow root 2 ounces 

Treacle '. 4 ounces 

Water 3 pints 

Mix and boil to one quart and give as a drench at night. 

CHRONIC COUGH. 

Tar water Vt. pint 

Lime water Yi pint 

Powdered squill i drachm 

Mix and give this amount every morning until better. 

BRAN MASH. 

Bran, i^ peck; boiling water enough to wet the bran thoroughly, 
when worked with a stick. Cover and let stand until blood warm. 

COUGH MASH. 

Ground oil-cake meal 2 quarts 

Sugar 2 ounces 

Boiling water 6 quarts 

Simmer for three or four hours and give at night. This is food, 
medieine and comfort to the horse. 

SPRAINS AND OLD SWELLINGS. 

Camphorated spirit 2 ounces 

Spirits ammonia ; 2 ounces 

Oil turpentine i ounce 

Laudinum ^ ounce 

Oil oraganum . i drachm 

Mix and bathe the parts every day with good hand rubbing. 

SWELLED LEGS. 

Many horses' legs swell when confined to the stable and the follow- 
ing has been found beneficial, constitutionally as well as locally: 

Pulverized asaf oetida 5^ ounce 

Cream of tartar i ounce 

Powdered gentian 2 ounces 

Ginger (African) 2 ounces 

Powdered poplar bark 4 ounces 

Mix thoroughly and divide into six equal parts, one part to be given 



204 HORSE SENSE. 

in the feed each night, to regulate the digestion. If it is an old chronic 
case ,it may be followed by the following: 

Powdered goldenseal i ounce 

Powdered gentian I ounce 

Powdered balmony i ounce 

Flaxseed meal ^ pound 

Mix and divide into six parts, giving one night and morning in the 
feed. The legs should be well hand-rubbed daily and if this does not 
reduce the swelling, the following may be used as a liniment: 

Essence of cedar 2 ounces 

Tincture capsicum I ounce 

New rum I pint 

Mix and bathe the legs well every night, or for a little stronger 
remedy take: 

Spirits ammonia 2 ounces 

Olive oil 8 ounces 

FOOT SORE HORSES. 

Linseed oil J^ pint 

Spirits turpentine 4 ounces 

Oil tar 6 ounces 

Oil Oragannm 6 ounces 

Mix and apply all over the feet with a sponge, often. 

FEVERED LEGS. 

Chloride ammonia 4 ounces 

Tincture asafoetida 2 drachms 

Acetic acid i gallon 

Mix and use one ounce to the quart of water or witch-hazel for bath- 
ing the legs after a drive. 

CRACKED HEELS. 

Goulards' extract J4 ounce 

Tannin ^ ounce 

Gum camphor J4 ounce 

Charcoal I ounce 

Sulphur 2 ounces 

Lard %. pound 

Mix and apply to the affected parts. 

REMOVAL OF WARTS. 

Warts with a broad base can be removed by taking a suture needle 
and threading with two strong ligatures. Pass the needle through the 
base of the wart down to the skin and tie each half of the wart separately 
with a surgeons knot and cut the threads close to the knots. If the work 
is well done the wart will drop ofif in a short time. A wart with a small 
pedicle can be removed by a single ligature, or with the Ecrasuer. 

BODY WASH. 

Aqua ammonia 2 ounces 

Tincture opium 2 ounces 

Tincture cantharides 2 ounces 

Compound soap liniment I pint 

Witch-hazel i pint 

Rain-water i pint 

Mix and use about two ounces of this to the pint of rain-water, to be 



HORSE SENSE. 205 

used after scraping out the horse at the termination of a very heated 
drive. This should be used quickly, rubbing into the hair thoroughly 
over the loin, shoulders and quarters and then walk the horse under 
blankets or rub dry. It will leave the hair in fine condition and have 
a tendency to tone the skin and take out the soreness of the muscles. 
This will make enough for about twenty-five to thirty washings. 

DISINFECTANTS FOR WOUNDS. 

That it is necessary in veterinary science, as well as in the human, 
to give great attention to the disinfection of all wounds, there is no 
longer any question. If the bacteria can be kept out of wounds we have 
little or no trouble in the healing process. But once the wound becomes 
tlioroughly infected, then the process of rapid recovery is arrested, and 
sloughing is apt to follow. A i per cent solution of mercuric chlorid is 
sufficient to destroy the. bacilli, and will be found useful in the treatment 
of almost all character of wounds and aid in rapid healing. 

CHARCOAL TAR. 

Charcoal tar is useful about wounds as antiseptic and especially in 
•diseases of the feet of animals. 

SUGAR AS AN ANTISEPTIC. 

Powdered sugar (pure) is an excellent remedy for strongly granu- 
lating wounds, and acts as a dryer, and aids in forming a scab, under 
which healthy granulations have a chance to form, as well as acting as 
a barrier against microbes getting into the wound. It can be dusted into 
the wound with little or no trouble and where there is but little supura- 
tion it is just as well to let the wound alone. 

FENCE WIRE CUTS. 

Probably no other one thing gives the farmers of the country more 
trouble than the wounds from barb-wire fences. Almost all these cuts 
are across the muscular fiber and it is (as a rule) but little use to stitch 
them up, on account of the muscular contractions^ of the skin of the 
horse. As a rule it is far better to let them alone than to treat them in 
the usual way; with harsh stimulating and destructive preparations — 
operating against nature's efforts — tearing down tissue faster than it can 
be manufactured, annoying the animal to no purpose, etc., etc. Pure 
charcoal tar around the wound to protect the borders, and powdered 
sugar dashed into the wound (if it is self draining) and let the horse have 
exercise, is as much as is beneficial. In fact if the horse is at pasture, 
and he is so he can get about at all, it is better to let him alone entirely, 
than to put him into a foul stable and wash and torment the horse with 
daily treatment. For twenty years we have had from twenty to over one 
hundred head of horses running in pastures surrounded with wire fences, 
and as a consequence more or less of them were injured, and in the be- 
ginning we gave ourselves any amount of work and worry, and had many 
bad scars. We have learned to almost entirely let them alone, and the 
scars now from wire cuts are scarcely perceptable. 



206 HORSE SENSE. 

SCRATCHES. 

Sugar of lead -2 drachms 

Sulphate of zinc i drachm 

Infusion of oak bark i pint 

This is a mild and useful application for scratches where the horse 
is not otherwise diseased. Cleanse out the affected parts and bathe 
thoroughly with this wash and bandage. Use no grease. 

ANOTHER FOR SCRATCHES. 

Blue vitriol j^ ounce 

Alum 3 drachms 

Water I pint 

This is a strong application and should not be used until other has 
failed, and the health of the horse taken into consideration. 

WASH FOR OLD SORES. 

Sulphate of copper 2 drachms 

Water I pint 

This is good for stimulating and cleansing out old sores that are 
difficult to heal. 

WASH FOR MANGE. 

Tobacco 2 ounces 

Salt (common) 3 ounces 

Bar soap 2 ounces 

First boil the tobacco in one quart of water and strain. Then add the 
soap cut up fine and then the salt. Wash the affected parts daily for ten 
days. Or for a day or two, and then in three or four days, and keep it 
up for two weeks. This will also kill lice. 

GREASE HEEL. 

Sulphate of copper 2 drachms 

Alum 2 drachms 

Water i pint 

Keep the parts as clean as possible and bathe with this lotion. Avoid 
any greasy preparations. 

THRUSH. 

This is a disease of the feet, in the cleft of the frog. With geldings 
and stallions, it often attacks the front feet, and in mares the hind feet, 
from the moisture and filth of the stable generally. It is detected by 
nioisture of the parts, with an offensive smell. If there is much destruc- 
tion of the frog, all the ragged portions should be cut away, the foot 
thoroughly washed with tar soap and warm water, and the cleft or cracks 
well filled with dry calomel. If badly affected, this dressing should be 
applied every day; but if only a mild case, it may remain for three or 
four days without repeating. Sometimes the condition of the blood of 
the animal will require constitutional treatment. 

Some use a weak solution of blue vitrol, others butter of antimony 
and other salts. A good compound for thrush is made by taking one 
ounce each of red precipitate, blue vitriol and powdered white sugar 
and half an ounce of burnt alum, mix and apply to the affected frog. 



HORSE SENSE. 



207 



BAD THRUSH. 

Barbadoes tar i ounce 

Ail of turpentine .> i ounce 

Oil vitriol I drachm 

Mix the first two carefully and then add the vitriol. The parts should 
be carefully cleansed and then the remedy applied. Should be used about 
every third day until the offensive smell has disappeared, and looks gen- 
erally better. 

FOR SPLINT. 

Camphorated spirits of wine 2 ounces 

Oil of turpentine H ounce 

Oil oraganum V^ ounce 

Mix and apply to the afifected parts night and morning for a few 
days, or until a moisture is noticed and then wait a few days and then 
repeat. 

FOR ITCHING HUMOR. 

Oil tar 2 ounces 

Oil turpentine'.'.'.'.*.'.'..*. • 2 ounces 

Seal oil 2 ounces 

Mix and apply to the itching places once every second day for two 
or three times and then wash. Repeat if necessary. 

LICE ON HORSES. 

All young horses that do not appear to be doing well, even on good 
feed, should be carefully examined in the bright sunlight, by parting the 
hair on the shoulders, side of the body, along the back, under the mane, 
and about the root of the tail, for the presence of lice. If found, take 
a whisp broom, dip it in an open dish or pan containing kerosene, whip 
ofif the surplus kerosene, and draw or brush along the back, shoulders 
and sides of the horse, without wetting the hair excessively. Repeat 
in two weeks to kill the newly hatched crop, as the first application will 
not kill the nits. In cold weather, gasoline will answer a better purpose, 
from its rapid evaporation, and is generally preferable to kerosene or 
insect powder. 

COLLAR AND SADDLE GALLS. 

Wash thoroughly with castile or tar soap and warm soft water, rub- 
bing the soap well into the parts afifected, handling gently, and allow the 
lather to remain until dry; then apply any simple astringent wash, such as 
a decoction of oak bark, witch hazel, etc. Fifteen parts of glycerine with 
one part of carbolic acid is also efifective. Twenty grains of sulphate 
of zinc in an ounce of water is a very good application. 

CARRIAGE TOP DRESSING. 

Oil sassafras V2 ounce 

Gum camphor V2 ounce 

Lamp black ^ ounce 

Rosin i^ ounces 

Gum shellac 3 ounces 

Wood alcohol i pmt 

Mix and use with a brush, keep well corked and shake before using. 
The shellac should be first cut with the alcohol, then add the gum 



208 HORSE SENSE. 

camphor, then the rosin (powdered) and then the other ingredients. 
This makes an excellent dressing. By leaving out the lamp black it can 
be used for fair leather or tan shoes. 

KEROSENE EMULSION FOR HARNESS. 

Take one bar of good strong washing soap, dissolve in a quart of 
water and bring to boiling, then add one pint of kerosene oil, and stir 
the whole until it combines to make a creamy emulsion. Have a tub of 
warm water, into which mix the emulsion, and into this place the harness 
and let it soak some time; then with a stiff brush rub and brush the straps 
thoroughly and they wiil come clean very easily. Let the leather dry a 
little, until it seems dry on the outside, and then apply the harness oil; 
either neatsfoot or fish oil. To make the leather black, mix a little lamp 
black up with about one-fifth as much kerosene as harness oil and mix 
together and then give the leather a tgood oiling. Old straps which were 
so brittle as to crack seriously when bent are restored to their original 
softness and pliability by this treatment. If a new harness is treated 
twice a year in this way it will always keep soft and in good order. For 
fixing leather carriage tops it is necessary to wash over several times 
with the emulsion to get it damp enough to oil; then apply the oil as in 
the case of the harness. 

CARB OF HARNESS. 

The care of harness has a great deal to do with its appearance and 
lasting qualities. Before oiling the harness should be all taken apart 
and thoroughly washed with warm water, castile soap and a brush or 
cloth. When nearly dry apply "neatsfoot" oil with a sponge or woolen 
rag, and such parts as are exposed to the perspiration of the horse and 
mud, should have an additional application of oil. We should nev^r hang 
the oiled harness near the hot stove or in the hot sun to dry. It should 
be kept in a room of moderate temperature until the oil has efifectually 
penetrated the leather. 

MAKE THE HARNESS LOOK LIKE NEW WHEN OILING. 

To make the harness look like new when oiling we have tonly to 
clean the leather thoroughly when washing, and then add to one pint of 
"neatsfoot" oil a tablespoonful of lamp black and one or two ounces of 
melted bees-wax and stir thoroughly when adding these two to the oil. 

SPONGING THE HARNESS. 

To keep the harness clean and looking nicely, we have only to sponge 
or wipe the harness with castile or black harness soap and a very little 
water, as often as the harness is gummed or dusty. This can be done 
quickly and it adds very much to the appearance and lasting qualities. 

HANGING THE HARNESS IN THE STABLE. 

The harness should always be hung in such part of the stable as not 
to be exposed to the fumes of ammonia generated by the manure. This 
will injure the leather of the harness more than its every day use. You 



HORSE SENSE. 209 

will always know the effect on the leather from ammonia from the whitish 
appearance of the leather and the rapidity of the stifening of the leather — 
it soon loses its pliability. 

HANGING UP THE HARNESS AFTER BEING IN A RAIN 

STORM. 

Whenever we come in the stable after .getting the harness soaking 
wet, we should be very careful how we hang it up to dry, because leather 
drying out of form always weakens it at the places where the leather is 
bent out of its usual shape. Either hang the harness all straightened 
out or lay it carefully straightened on the floor, and when partially dry 
sponge it off with castile soap. 



CHAPTER XL 

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS. 

The following questions and answers are a compilation of some of 
the many questions that have been asked and answered in connection 
with the Farmers' Institute work of Minnesota, by good veterinary 
authority, in relation to those that pertain to disease, etc., the others 
by the author. 

ANSWERED BY THE AUTHOR. 

Would not the method of tying the horse by the tail to make him 
pull be considered inhuman treatment in i\y- and mosquito season? 

Ans. Yes; it would if the horse was expected to go a long distance 
tied in that way by the tail. But a few rods work hitched by the tail will, 
generally, be sufficient to satisfy him that he had rather pull the load by 
his shoulders, and have the use of his tail for his protection against flies 
and mosquitoes. Be sure, however, that you do not get your horse angry 
and disposed to "sulk" before you hitch him., by the tail, or he may not 
go at all. 

At what age is it best to break a young colt to the halter — and how? 

Ans. When ten days or two weeks old is about the best time to 
begin his education to the halter, and the best method is fully represented 
in connection with cut No. 29. 

What age is best to harness and drive the colt? 

Ans. This is also well represented and illustrated in cuts No. 30 
and 31. 

How would you handle all vicious and tricky horses? 

Ans. To answer this question satisfactorily would require more 
time and space than is allowed here, and we would refer all those in- 
terested to chaptersXXXIII and XXXIV. 

How do you account for so many of our horses of the present day 
having bad legs? 

Ans. The principle cause is the use of stallions and mares for breed- 
ing purposes that have defective legs. Stallions have the power to trans- 
mit their defects as well as mares (if not more) and when both are de- 
fective in like manner we could not reasonably expect perfect foals. 
Nature abhors incongruities — the perfect cannot be produced from the 
inherited imperfect. 

Have you any method that you consider good for the care and 
wintering of stallions? 

Ans. Yes; you will find this subject considered at length in chap- 
ter VIII. 



HORSE SENSE. 211 

What do you consider the best treatment for "scours" in a young 
colt without giving much medicine? 

Ans. In our long experience with many foals every spring we have 
found that proper care of the dam to be the best treatment for "scours." 
The general cause of this trouble is a too copious flow of milk, usually 
from the mare drinking large quantities of water, which is easily remedied 
by giving only small draughts of water at a time and cutting down on 
the grain ration for a short time, and the "scours" soon disappear. But 
as long as the mare drinks large quantities of water and is richly fed, the 
chances are that the colt will not improve in condition. A dose of castor 
oil may be given to the colt. 

What is the proper care of the colt's feet before he reaches the age 
for shoeing, for the best results for the future of the horse? 

Ans. Be sure and trim the feet often and keep them as nearly level 
as possible all around, so as not to have the bearing unequal on the 
sides, not too long at the toe, or the heels so high as not to get good 
"frog" pressure, is the surest method of keeping the feet in proper shape 
for the best results for the future horse. 

Do you approve of the blacksmith cutting away the "sole" and "bars" 
of the horse's feet preparatory to shoeing? 

Ans. No, indeed; the thinner the "sole" is pared and the more the 
"bars" are cut away, the sooner the horse will suffer from dryness of the 
feet and consequent contraction, bruises, corns, etc. 

Is it a good practice to rasp away the outside horn of the horse's 
foot up as high as the nails clinch to make a nice, smooth job in shoeing? 

Ans. The outside glossy coating of the horse's foot is nature's pro- 
tection for the preservation of the moisture of the foot, and the more 
rasping is done the more exposure, and consequently the greater danger 
of drying and shrinking up of the horse's feet. Elasticity is needed in the 
feet as well as other parts of the body, but not to the same degree, yet 
if the moisture of the feet is allowed to escape by rasping and cutting 
at the feet unnecessarily, the more danger there is to the inside structures 
being injured. Keep the feet as nearly natural as possible in conformation, 
with good, strong "bars," "soles" and elastic "frog" and the liability to 
lameness will be very much lessened. 

What is the relative value of a springy or oblique "pastern" over 
a straight or upright "pastern?" 

Ans. That would depend somewhat on the usage of the horse. 
While a springy "pastern" is always preferable to an upright one, the 
road horse must have springy "pasterns" or soon go sore (unless he is 
a very low gaited horse). More lameness results from straight inelastic 
"pasterns" than any other cause (excepting accidents). The heavier the 
road horse with upright "pasterns" the sooner and more surely will he 
suffer. 

Do you think the rigid use of a "bitting harness" good for colts be- 
fore they go into harness practice? 

Ans. No; it too often "sours" the disposition, cramps the muscles 
of the neck, injures the mouth and frequently spoils an otherwise good 



212 HORSE SENSE. 

and useful horse. We have no objection to putting a bit into the colt's 
mouth, but to check his head up high and fasten the side straps rigidly 
is certainly a pernicious practice. If the "bitting harness" is to be used 
let the bit loosely in the mouth and check and side straps "slack." 

What remedy would you recommend for pin worms in horses and 
colts? 

Ans. Injections of aloes in solution, one ounce of aloes to a gallon 
of water, once a week for two weeks. 

How is wheat for feed for horses? 

Ans. Very good, if fed ground; mixed with ground oats it is better. 

How shall I prevent a horse from rolling over in the stall and getting 
cast so he cannot get up? 

Ans. Tie him so short that he cannot lay his head flat on the floor 
of his stall, or fasten a pully in the ceiling with weight that will do the 
same. 

What good is a check-rein and blinders? 

Ans. The check-rein is really of no value further than to prevent 
the horse from getting his head to the ground when stopped, or tied to 
post, or other fastening; and sometimes to prevent him being too playful 
when first starting out. The blinders are useful in driving "shirky," 
tricky horses, or where one is free and the other lazy and watching the 
driver. 

Why do people use the cruel overhead check-rein tight for ordinary 
driving? 

Ans. Because it is the fashion, and the drivers or owners do not 
realize how much discomfort they are giving their mute friends by its 
use. If they could fully understand how much suffering our horses were 
enduring for our comfort and pleasure, the overhead check-rein would 
never be used tight — especially on straight-shouldered horses — or long 
at a time, in any case, or never when left tO' stand or hitched to the 
post. Always lengthen out the overhead check for a long drive and 
whenever stopped. 

Is there any way to prevent a biting horse from biting? 

Ans. We think so; by the use of the safety bridle represented in this 
book, and by feeding him from the hand what he most relishes, making 
him first believe that we are not afraid of him, by the safety bridle, and, 
also, that we are his best friend. Don't hurt him when in immediate 
contact with him; but, if he attempts to bite, pull on the rope, and he 
bites himself instead of the object aimed at, and, we assure you, he will 
soon comprehend the situation. 

How do you prevent a horse from crowding his keeper in the stall? 

Ans. By the means shown in chapter XXX, cuts Nos. 52 and 53. 

How do you make a horse hold up his head? 

Ans. If the horse has a sloping shoulder, he will hold his head well 
up, naturally, if well fed. If his shoulder is straight, and his neck set 
low, it is very hard for him to hold his head high. By the use of the 
check-rein, the head can be gradually raised, by degrees, without very 
great inconvenience to the horse, and, in time, his style of carriage can 



HORSE SENSE. 213 

«• 

be improved. But too many of our would-be useful horses have been 
"soured," made balky, contracting the pernicious habit of pulling on the 
bit, and many other faults, by the use and abuse of the check-rein (of 
any character) in trying to make high-headed horses of them from the 
beginning of their harness experience. Natural style in harness is 
nature's graceful curves, but man's devices for the purpose often fall far 
short of the object attained. 

How can I prevent a horse from "bucking" when he is determined to 
"buck" me ofif? 

Ans. The use of the persuader, is as applicable in saddle as harness 
work, and can be handled from the back of the horse in taking up one 
front foot, as when behind him; and the horse makes a "sorry" job of 
bucking on three legs. Besides, he can be given the use of all his legs 
at any instant, or deprived, as may be desired. 

What can I do to teach a horse to back? 

Ans. This is fully explained at Cut. No. 6^. 

You spoke here of how to hitch a team on the prairie so they could 
feed and could be found near where they were left without a post or 
tether. How is it done? 

Ans. This is explained and illustrated in chapter XXXII, cut No. 70. 

How shall I manage a horse that is troublesome to shoe? 

Ans. This is represented and shown in chapter XXXII, cut No. 72. 

How can I break my horse from pulling on the halter? 

Ans. See chapter XXX, cuts Nos. 60 and 61. 

What do you consider the best methods of handling the "Broncho," 
from the beginning, for a useful and safe horse? 

Ans. We devoted considerable space to this subject, under the head- 
ing of "Controlling the Actions of the Horse by His Tail," chapter 
XXXI. By reading this matter carefully, and complying with the de- 
tails, we believe you will succeed beyond your expectations; but don't 
hurt him, if possible, under any circumstances, and remember that the 
medium of the stomach is the most direct route to his affections. 

What is the best method of separating colts, at weaning time, from 
their dams? 

Ans. As we have often said before, we prefer putting two together 
in box stalls, for company for each other, but, if we had but one, we 
would prefer to wean it beside the dam, by tying it in such a manner that 
it could not get its mother's milk. 

What is the best feed for colts the first winter? 

Ans. We prefer to commence with weaning on skimmed cow's milk 
(the separator preferred), by letting them go from eight to twelve hours 
after taking from the dam, before offering them anything; then approach 
them with a little warm sweetened skim-milk in a shallow pan, and watch 
the opportunity to suddenly lift the pan, so as to immerse the colt's nose 
into the, milk, and take it away, letting the colt have a chance to taste 
the milk on its lips, when it may be repeated, and, as the colt is thirsty,, 
it will generally take to drinking, when the trouble, ever after, is at an 
end. In a few days we make an addition to its ration of milk. We give 



214 HORSE SENSE. 

a little oil meal, and begin feeding a very little ground oats and bran, 
which we increase in quantity as its appetite craves, and the amount of 
■exercise will justify. It is not good to feed colts all they will often eat, 
unless they have the liberty to take plenty of exercise. Well cured clover 
hay isj also, an excellent feed for colts the first winter. 

What do you think of wild hay as feed for horses? 

Ans. Together with a good grain ration, wild hay, to the amount 
of ten to fifteen pounds per day, we regard as excellent for horses at 
work. Too many farmers feed far more hay than is good for horses. 
Hay, like grain, should be fed as a ration, eaten up clean, and then wait 
luntil the next meal. 

Is ground barley good horse feed? . 

Ans. Ground barley is much like corn in quality, but stock of all 
kinds become tired of it as a continuous feed. Horses, like people, like 
variety; and should have it. 

Does it hurt a horse to give him water when he is warm if we do 
not let him stand? 

Ans. No; unless he is very thirsty, and it is soon after he has had 
his ration of feed; and then it is more apt to produce colic than affect 
him otherwise. 

How much water should a horse have at one time? 

Ans. As the capacity of the horse's- stomach is only about three 
and one-half gallons, it is not best to give more than that amount at any 
one time. We always prefer to water horses before feeding, and then 
the water will pass along into the bowels when the grain ration is fed; 
whereas, if he is fed before water is given, the food is forced into the 
bowels before the stomach has performed its part of the digestion, and 
derangement is too apt to follow. 

(Can a farmer raise colts and profit by them at the present prices? 

Ans. That depends largely on the character of colts to be raised. 
If the farmer has the breeding stock to produce first-class horses of any 
of the three classes, viz., draught, carriage or road horses, we say he can, 
provided he gives them the same care and attention that is required to 
make a success in any other department of farming. 

What is the best thing to do with a horse easily frightened? 

Ans. This is usually due to an extreme nervous irritability, to a lack 
of intelligence, harsh treatment or defective eyes. The only available 
treatment is kind, uniform treatment; usually a mild bit, properly ad- 
justed harness, sometimes open bridle works better, and on some horses 
a blind bridle is more satisfactory. Little can be done if the eyes are 
defective. 



- CHAPTER XLL . 

ANSWERED BY DR. M. H. REYNOLDS, STATE VETERINA- 
RIAN, ST. ANTHONY PARK, MINN. 

Question, (i) What is a good grain for a hard-working horse to 
keep him in marketable condition? (2) For an idle horse? (3) What 
is the best kind of hay for horses? (4) Can sweeny be cured, and if so, 
how? A. (i) For each 1,000 pounds live weight, fifteen pounds oats, 
twelve pounds hay, clover or timothy, four to six pounds cf bran, if con- 
venient, for twenty-four hours. Allow two pounds of water for each 
pound of dry feed. (2) Fifteen pounds of hay, with half the grain if the 
horse is already fat. (3) Clover or timothy. (4) Yes, usually, if the 
horse is not lame, by persistent irritation, e. g., severe and repeated blis- 
ters, setons or hand rubbing, with exercise. 

Question. What can I do for a four-year-old colt which got kicked 
on the hock-cap, and an enlargement remains a month later? A. Blis- 
ter with red iodide of mercury, one part, and lard or cosmoline, six parts, 
well mixed. Repeat in four weeks if necessary. The prospect for satis- 
factory results is fair, but not sure. Prevent the horse from biting the 
part while the blister is smarting. 

Question. What causes a number of young colts to die within a few 
days after birth? They seem to be lacking in vitality from the moment 
of birth. A. The fault may be with the sire, or it may be with the dam. 
She may be fat and soft, or poor and weak. The trouble may be with 
the mother's food, and the cause may lie with the undetermined cause of 
epidemic abortions. Only a careftil exarriirttion will show the cause in 
any given case. 

Question. Can benzine or gacoline be used with safety to kill lice 
on horses, and how? A. Yes. Put a little on a whisk broom, or any 
brush, and brush through the hair. 

Question. How would you treat thrush in horses' feet? A. Cut 
ofif all the diseased frog, scrape out the cleft and crevices with a hoof 
knife, and pour a little 95 per cent carbolic acid over the diseased frog 
every morning after cleaning out. Avoid filthy stables. 

Question. What is the cause of heaves in horses, and how can they 
be cured? A. Heaves are caused by overfeeding in coarse, dusty foods. 
There is no hope for advanced cases. In early stages turn out to grass 
for five or six months; afterwards feed but little hay. Sprinkle both hay 
and grain if dusty. 

Question. Is there any cure for poll evil? A. Yes, but these cases 
usually require continued treatment by a skillful veterinarian. 



216 HORSE SENSE. 

Question. How can a spavin or ringbone be cured? A. The lame- 
ness may usually be cured by repeated blisters or well-done firing; but 
the enlargement will remain in spite of any satisfactory treatment that 
has yet been devised. 

Question. What is good for colts troubled with lice? A. Corn, 
oats, bran and hay, aided by gasoline used carefully as in above. Kero- 
sene and soft soap emulsion, or Persian insect powder dusted in the hair 
on neck, withers and back. 

Question. Do you recommend feeding good oat straw to idle 
horses? A. Yes; clean oat straw makes a very good coarse food for 
horses, whether working or idle. When working, the horse needs a little 
more grain than when fed on clover and timothy hay. 

Question. Do wolf teeth make horses blind? A. No. Leave them 
alone. 

Question. What is the cause and proper treatment of colic? A. 
Anything that interferes with the digestive processes, in the whole or 
any portion of the alimentary canal, may cause an attack of colic, e. g.,, 
sudden changes from dry to green food or the reverse, watering after 
eating grain, finely ground corn meal, unmixed, excessive feeding of 
hay, full drink of very cold water when horse is warm, or feeding when 
horse is very tired, and some cases are probably due to the presence of 
parasitic worms in certain arteries that furnish blood to the intestines. 

Question. I have a three-year-old colt which has a whitish colora- 
tion or change in the pupil of the eye with the full of the moon, and then 
goes blind. About five days later the spot leaves and the eyesight re- 
turns. What is the trouble? A. This is evidently a case of periodic 
ophthalmia, and the patient will probably go blind. Treatment would 
not be apt to rgive good satisfaction. 

Question. Is cob meal ground with oats good feed for horses? A. 
Yes, but the cob should be ground fine — not merely crushed. 

Question. How is millet, for feed, for working horses, when ground 
and mixed with bran? A. There is some dispute among veterinarians 
and feeders, over this point; but the majority of those who have studied 
the matter and had large experience in feeding millet agree that it is a 
safe and valuable food for horses if cut early. 

Question, (i) Is barley good feed for growing colts? (2) How 
about barley straw for horses? A. (i) Barley is nearly equal to corn 
for horse-feed, but it should be crushed. (2) Barley straw is less 
nutritious than oat straw, and the beards cause a great deal of trouble 
to horses mouths. 

Question. Which would you feed first to horses — hay or grain? A. 
The ideal way to feed a horse is first water, second hay, third grain, but 
the difference between this and grain first and hay second, as horses 
usually eat, is not very decided. A few horses will eat grain and hay 
together, which is possibly better still. The old street car system of feed- 
ing horses, by cutting hay or straw, wetting it, and mixing the ground 
grain, was a very safe and very economical system of feeding horses on 



HORSE SENSE. 



217 



a large scale. By this system the horse was compelled to eat the hay 
and grain together. 

Question. How can I dispose of bleeding tumor on the joint of the 
hind foot near the fetlock? A. Touch the bleeding surface with the 
point of a red hot iron, in case it does not come nearer than within an 
inch of the hoof, otherwise dust powdered iron sulphate over the surface. 

Question. What would you do with a horse that has lampers, and 
what is the cause of the same? A. Lampers is to be regarded frequently 
merely as a symptom of disease rather than in itself as a diseased con- 
dition. It may be caused by anything that would irritate the mucous 
membrane of the mouth, changes in the teeth, but more often by dis- 
turbance in the stomach and intestines. The only treatment that is ad- 
visable is scarifying the mucous membrane over the swoolen parts with 
a sharp pen knife, being careful not to cut too deep for serious bleeding 
may follow a deep cut at a certain place. 

Question. Are the so-called condition powders, which are offered 
by dealers, of any real value to the horse when fed? A. I have very 
little confidence in patent medicines of any kind, especially the average 
condition powders which we find on the market for stock. 

Question. Is it hurtful to water a horse while warm? A. It all 
depends on how cold the water and how much of it. I think horses never 
get so hot that a little cold water will injure them. How much they 
shall have depends on how hot the horse and how cold the water. 

Question. Can ringbones or spavins be taken off without firing^ 
or blistering or injury to the horse? A. I think not. 

Question. What shall I do for a horse that has bone spavin just 
forming? A. Blister over the spavin with tincture or cantharides, or 
have him fired by a competent veterinarian. 

Question. Will all horses of the same live weight do equally well on 
the same amount of food? A. Certainly not. Some horses require 
much more food for the same amount of work than others of similar 

weight. 

Question. Is it economy to cook the food for horses? A. I thmk 
not, except it be for an old family pet with poor teeth. 

Question. How often shall I feed my horse that is a hard worker? 
A. Three times a day or five times a day if it can be done. 

Question. How should horses for farm work be fed? A. Water 
first, always. Grain and hay next and together. Only so much hay 
as ahorse will clean up in a reasonable time. If the hay is dusty it should 
be sprinkled. A reasonable amount of grain, according to the size of 
the horse and the amount of work, should be given. 

Question. Is there any harm in feeding horses a quantity of salt to 
last them a week? A. No especial harm, but a decidedly better way is 
to keep it before them all the time. 

Question. What shall I do for a horse that has scratches, or grease 
heel of three years' standing? A. Take him to a veterinarian. 

Question. Would you consider wheat good to feed a mare with 



218 HORSE SENSE. 

foal? A. A small amount of wheat crushed, or coarsely ground, may 
be a valuable addition to her diet. 

Question. What is the best bit for a hard-mouthed horse? A. 
Frequently a very easy bit and uniformly kind treatment will work 
wonders for a puller. There are quite a number of severe bits which 
commend themselves for certain horses, such as the Jay Eye See bit, Suc- 
cess, Imperial and Rockwell; anything but the double jointed, twisted 
wire bit. 

Question. What shall I do to get the lice ofif a colt? A. In cold 
weather use pyrethreum or Persian insect powder along the neck and 
back. Repeat every six days till the lice disappear. In warm weather 
us kerosene emulsion made in the following proportions, more or less as 
needed: One gallon of water, one pound laundry soap; boil till dis- 
solved. Add, while hot and away from the fire^ two gallons kerosene. 
For use, take one pint of this emulsion for three gallons of cold water. 
Wash colt thoroughly with this diluted mixture; or preferably gasoline. 

Question. What should be done in a case of sore eyes in a horse ap- 
pearing at dififerent intervals; one sore one week, and heal, and then the 
other sore? A. What is the cause? A. I cannot tell. This may be 
either periodical ophthalmia (moon blindness) or a symptom of influenza. 
The former is probably incurable and usually results in blindness. The 
latter usually disappears under treatment. 

Question. My colts rub their tails. What causes it? A. Either 
lice at the root of the tail or pin worms in the rectum. For the former, 
use kerosene emulsion. If due to the latter, give injection of quassia 
tea, followed by a dose of raw linseed oil; enough to physic. 

Question. Will a horse that has been paralyzed on one side ever 
be able to work again? A. He may or he may not. It depends on the 
location and extent of the disease. 

Question. What would you do for collar galls? A. Relieve from 
work if possible. Otherwise remove pressure from sore place by ad- 
justing sweat pad or collar. Dust over the raw surface the following 
mixture: Boracic acid, iodiform and tannic acid; equal part by weight. 

Question. Do you approve of allowing colts the first winter to have 
oats to eat at their will, or feed what they will eat up clean three times 
a day? A. I think the latter is the proper way to feed any horse. 

Question. How would you treat a horse that has mange? A. 
Scrub the diseased surface with brush, soap and warm, soft water until 
all the scaly material is removed. Then use a lotion made in the follow- 
ing proportions: Water, one quart; carbolic acid, (95 per cent) one 
ounce; acetic acid (glacial), two ounces. Apply every third day until 
cured, or skin becomes very sore. In the latter case stop treatment for 
a few days, then begin again. 

Question. What is the cause of lameness in the forelegs of a horse 
confined in the stable in the winter time? A. It may be due to any one 
of several causes, more frequently, perhaps, to contracted hoof caused 
by horses standing on dry floor, either shod with high toe and heel calks 
or barefoot, and the wall of the hoof allowed to grow down till frog does 



HORSE SENSE. 219 

not touch the floor. Remove the shoes or trim down the hoof until the 
frog rests upon the floor; that is, the frog surface must be below the level 
of the sole. At the same time use some oil or hoof ointment to soften the 
hoof. 

Question. What makes horses that are well fed gnaw feed-boxes, 
mangers and everything around them? Is there any help for it? A. 
They either get too much grain or too little coarse food, and sometimes 
horses gnaw the mangers and feed-boxes because they do not get 
sufficient exercise and have little better to do. Tack sheep skin over the 
manger with wool on, or cover with tin. 

Question. Will a horse do well on good wheat and oat straw, half 
and half? How much grain should he have with it to balance it? How 
much at a meal? The grains are oats or corn. Which is best? A. I 
do not like wheat straw for horses, except it be cut quite green. Oat 
straw, if it be clean and bright, is much better. About the same propor- 
tion as with prairie hay, more or less, in quantity, according to the size 
of the horse and kind of work. Both are good. Clean, heavy oats is 
probably the best single grain for horses, although I think corn is fre- 
quently underrated by feeders. 

Question. A horse has been troubled for one year with white, round 
worms about two inches long. Have tried several remedies. Can you 
give me a sure one? A. First, give him a pint and a half to a quart of 
raw linseed oil. Allow very little or no hay during the period of treat- 
ment. Give daily, two ounces turpentine in one pint raw linseed oil 
for four days. Close treatment, with a rather severe physic, as for ex- 
ample, the first dose of linseed oil, unless very free action has already 
been established by the continued doses of linseed oil, in which case the 
cleansing dose is unnecessary. The essential point in this treatment is, 
first, to thoroughly empty the bowels and then keep them from filling up 
by allowing little or no hay; and, lastly, the continued treatment by 
turpentine. The only satisfactory way to treat these parisites is by con- 
tinued treatment. One or two doses of any single medicine is not usually 
satisfactory. 



CHAPTER XLII. 

ANSWERED BY DR. S. D. BRIMHALL, ASSISTANT STATE 
VETERINARIAN, MINNEPOLIS, MINN. 

Question. Have a horse that is bothered with contracted hoof? A. 
Contraction of the foot (hoof bound) is the more or less marked con- 
traction of the posterior parts of the foot. There are two kinds, true and 
false. In true contraction, the quarters, as well as the heels, are high and 
narrow — often called mule foot. As a consequence of the compression 
caused by the contracted heels and quarters, the sole becomes more 
concave and the frog, in a great measure, becomes shrunken. The causes 
are numerous, but all can be traced to one of two factors — drying of the 
horn, or some interference with its normal elasticity. 

Treatment: Keep the heels and quarters pared down so that there 
will be a good frog pressure at all times, and keep the hoof moist; also 
prevent drying out by the use of vaseline. If the contraction is very 
great, and the horse is lame, it would be well to thin the wall at heels 
and quarters to allow them to expand more readily. 

Question. What treatment would you recommend for a horse that 
has Sweeney in both shoulders slightly, caused by too large a collar, more 
than a year ago? A. Sweeney is often due to prolonged lameness of the 
feet. If the horse is lame try to determine the cause. A slight shrink- 
ing of the .shoulder muscles seldom^ affects the usefulness of the animal- 
Medical treatment is rarely satisfactory in cases of so long standing. 

Question. How would you treat a ringbone that has, been on about 
six months, swollen in the first joint of the hind foot? A. Blister 
thoroughly by rubbing in the following ointment every ten days: Tie the 
horse so that he cannot get his mouth to the blister: Red iodide of 
mercury, one dram; pulverized cantharis, one drachm; vaseline, six 
drachms. 

Question. What would you do for a mare that has heaves? A. 
Feed sparingly of coarse feed and be sure that all feed is clean, sweet 
and free from dust. Moistening the feed with lime water is often of 
advantage. Never feed hay which has not been perfectly cured. Badly 
cured hay will irritate the stomach and the nerve which supplies the lungs 
and stomach, thus producing a cough, which, if continued, will cause 
heaves. 

Question. Describe glanders. A. Glanders and farcy are one and 
the same disease. The term farcy has been applied to the disease when 
th principle manifestation is an outbreak of the sores on the skin of the 



HORSE SENSE. 221 

anin^al, but internal lesions always exist and can be seen on post mortem. 
Glanders is a contagious constitutional disease of the horse, ass and mule, 
and is readily communicable to man, sheep, goats, the dog, the cat, the 
rabbit and guinea pig. It runs a variable course, lasting from a few 
weeks to several years. It is subject to various complications of the 
lymphatic glands, of the langs, of the testicles, of the internal organs 
and the subcutaneous connective tissues. 

The essential symptoms are the enlarged lymphatic glands and cords, 
and ulcers on mucous membrane of nose. Farcy buds or ulcers in the 
skin, and the characteristic discharge is from nose and sores. A horse 
which has a chronic discharge from the nose should always be looked 
upon with suspicion. This suspicion can be removed or confirmed by the 
mallein test. 



CHAPTER XLIII. 

ANSWERED BY DR R. M. DODDS, MANKATO, MINN. 

Question. I have a mare that has a running sore on lower jaw, 
caused by ulcerated tooth, what can I do for it? A. Have the ulcerated 
tooth extracted by a competent man. He may have to trephine the 
jaw to obliterate the fistula. 

Question. What is best to do for a horse whose shoulder has become 
pufifed and swollen, and has been opened; it still remains swollen, but no 
discharge. A. Open it up thoroughly by a free incision of knife ta 
bottom of tumor, and dress daily with a saturated solution of chlorid 
of zinc. If it is necessary to work the animal cut out a portion of sweat 
pad over tumor. 

Question. What is the correct treatment for azoturia? A. As pre- 
vention is always better than cure, advice should be given in that direc- 
tion. Horses regularly worked and fed are never th-e subjects of this mal- 
ady. If you have no work for your horses, turn them out for exercise, al- 
ways cutting down their feed. Dr. Reynolds, Experimental Farm, St. 
Anthony Park, has prepared an excellent treatise on this disease, which 
it will be well foi you to send to him for. You will find it the most 
practical exposition of the subject, both cause and treatment, in the 
English language. 

Question. How much hay does a 1,000-pound horse require? A. It 
will depend on circumstances entirely — the kind of horse and the duty 
required of him. 

Question. What is the best liniment for barb wire cuts? A. Raw 
linseed oil, one pint; carbolic acid, one ounce. Keep the wounds satu- 
rated all the time with this. Will do in all kinds of conditions and 
weather. 

Question. I have a colt, coming two years old, that has puflfs on 
hock joints, both in front and on each side. Both hind legs are alike, 
is not lame, colt is quite large of its age. What will be best to do for it,, 
or will it come out all right? A. Considering that the colt is a 
growthy fellow it will be better to let it alone, as it is most likely 
dropsical and will probaby disappear with age and careful usage. 

Question. I have a horse that has a lump, or soft, pufYy enlarge- 
ment, inside of the fore pastern joint. What can I do to get rid of it? A. 
What you describe ' as a lump, or soft, pufify enlargement, inside the 
pastern joint, is probably nothing but a so-called wind gall in the sheath 
of the flexor tendon. It is not apt to cause lameness, and since it is 



HORSE SENSB. 



223 



small it is best left alone. May be your blacksmith has pared away too 
much of the quarters, or has allowed the toes to grow too long; or else 
you have allowed the flexor tendons to become too much strained by 
too fast or too long continued drives. 

Question. What constitutes a bog spavin? I have a mare that 
has an enlargement on hock joint that my neighbors say is bog spavin. 
She is not lame. I would like to take the bunch off if possible. A. A 
bog spavin, that is, an enlargement of the capsular ligament of the hock 
joint, very seldom causes any lameness, and, therefore may as well be left 
alone; at any rate unless the causes, usually defective mechanical pro- 
portions in the hock joint and an unequal distribution of weight and con- 
cussion, can be removed. Hence, no treatment will have any lasting ef- 
fect. A temporary reduction may be efifected by io'dine preparations — 
tincture of iodine, for instance — if applied once a day for several months 
in succession. 

Question. I have a horse that has been lame in his left, fore foot for 
over a year. I have blistered his shoulder for sweeney, but it did no 
good. He is as lame as ever, although I have treated him for several 
months. What had I better do? A. If you will kindly inform me where 
the lameness is situated, and give a lucid description of its characteristic 
features, I may be able to answer your question. Meanwhile give your 
horse absolute rest, or else consult a veterinarian personally. 

Question. I have a valuable horse that has a running sore from his 
neck. He was bit by a stallion about one year ~ ago and it has never 
healed up. What can I do? A. In the wound you describe, the bottom 
is probably lower than the opening, so that the pus that is formed cannot 
be discharged. The wound, therefore, is equivalent to what is usually 
called a fistula. The facts in the case must be first ascertained by careful 
probing. If this reveals that the bottom is lower, either the wound must 
be enlarged or a lower opening must be made. If this is done, and the 
wound is kept clean and dressed twice "a day with some antiseptic, say— ^ 
according to circumstances and to the condition of the wound— either 
with a three or five per cent solution of carbolic acid, or with iodiform, 
a healing will be efifected. It is much cheaper in all cases to employ a 
good veterinarian, and pay him for his services, than to lose a good 
horse. 

Question. What would you do with a sweeney on a three-year old 
colt? A. If the colt is lame, have the foot examined and see if the 
trouble is not there. If it is, the shoulder always shrinks from sympathy. 
If it should be in shoulder, a rowel will be in order, left in about two 
weeks. 

Question. Can splints on horses be cured? If so, what is the cure? 
A. li your horse is not lame from the splints, let them alone. They will 
disappear by a natural process in time. If lame and near the knee joint it 
will be well to apply a sharp, absorbing blister, iodine of potassium, 4 
drachms; iodine. 4 scruples; mercurial ointment, 2 ounces. Mix and ap- 
ply on splints once a week for three applications. 



224 HORSE SENSE. 

Question. What is the best remedy for scratches? A. Take a clean 
rub rag and clean out heels well and apply oxide of zinc ointment. Never 
wash, or as seldom as possible. 

Question. What about capped elbow or shoe-boil? A. Open freely, 
getting perfect drainage, wash out thoroughly, using a solution of Pot. 
Permanganese; one drachm to one pint of water, once daily; apply can- 
tharides blister, over the whole mass once weekly. This is the simplest 
treatment. Of course in old standing cases, a surgical operation is nec- 
essary, when the services of a veterinary is in order. 

Question. Can swelling of the legs be cured? A. It would depend 
on the cause. For ordinary swelled legs the following remedy will be 
found beneficial: potassium acetate, tinct. digitalas six ounces; equal 
parts; add water sufficient to make twelve ounces. Dose, one ounce every 
four hours. 

Question. Do wind-galls injure a horse and can they be removed? 
A. If windgalls do not cause lameness, let them alone. 

Question. How will the horse act with shoulder lameness? A. 
This is quite a broad question, as there are three forms of shoulder lame- 
ness, all of which may exist independently of each other. The gait of 
shoulder lameness, is indicative of the seat of injury. The horse brings 
the leg forward with a sort of half circle sweep, and in some cases the 
toe is dragged along the ground. In well marked cases, in bringing the 
limbs forcibly forward, the pain will be so great as to raise the front of 
the animal off the ground. 

Hot fomentations with blankets wrung out of hot water and placed 
over the shoulders, with dry blankets over is indicated and should be kept 
up until relief is obtained. 

Question. What is the best means of removing warts? A. Keep 
wart saturated with diluted acetic acid. 

Question. What can be done for grease heel? A. As the trouble 
arises within the body, connected with digestion, torpidity of the liver, 
«tc., we must remove the cause. Give seven drachms of barbedoes aloes 
and one drachm of ginger, in a bolus at once. This acts on the blood 
before acting on the bowels. Give also a tablespoonful of soda in every 
feed, for about two weeks; then give the following: tr. ferri chlor, 
(chloride of iron), liq-potas-arsen, (Fowler's solution), 12 ounces; mix 
together and give one ounce of this mixture in one pint of water three 
times a day. For local treatment, poultice with flaxseed meal in which a 
tablespoonful of powdered charcoal is mixed. Keep up the poultices 
for a couple of weeks. We prefer dry treatment after poulticing. Never 
wash, but, always rub drjf with a towel and keep the cracks dusted with 
powdered alum and golden seal, (hydrastis). 

Question. What is the best remedy for scratches? A. Poultice the 
affected part with flaxseed meal, in which a tablespoonful of powdered 
charcoal is mixed. Renew this poultice every day for one week; then 
apply oxide of zinc ointment for another week, after which good hand 
rubbing will do the finishing, unless there is constitutional trouble, in 
which case use the same treatment as for grease heel. 



HQRSE SENSE. 225 

Question. What treatment will relieve the lameness of ring bone? 
A. Keep the toe paVcd short; shoe with high heel corks and use the 
following counter-irritant: oil of peppermint one ounce; tincture of bella- 
donna and tinct iodine, each three and a half ounces; mix and apply once 
or twice a day. The most certain treatment, is firing or neurotomy. 

Question. What will relieve the lameness of bone spavin? A. The 
treatment for ring bone applies to this case; viz.: counter-irritants, firing 
and sciatic neurotomy, are indicated. 

Question. What can I do for quarter-crack? A. Proper balanc- 
ing of the foot with a bar shoe, cutting out a V-shape of horn from each 
side of the crack, so there will be no working of the part above or at the 
coronet. Blister above the crack once a week, for three week and after- 
wards treat foot as for hoof-bound. 

Question. What can I do for toe crack? A. Same as for quarter 
crack. 

Question. What is best for a "prick" of the sole? A. In veterinary 
science this designation has been given to a punctured wound, often 
with laceration, sometimes with contusions, either of the sole or frog, 
produced by sharp or cutting bodies; more commonly nails, upon which 
the animal steps. The form of these bodies, the direction they take, the 
force with which they penetrate and the parts they enter, give rise to 
various lesions of varying gravity, as they are older or as the injured part 
enjoys a greater sensibility. In all cases, the first indication is to get a 
natural repair. Open up the wound with hoof knife to bottom; giving 
always good drainage, then absolute rest, warm poultices of flaxseed meal 
and a little powdered charcoal, for a few days; then cold water baths, in 
which is added a little acetate of lead or even common salt. By this 
treatment, the progress of the inflammation is checked and very often 
deep and serious wounds cured without injury. 

Question. What can be done for corns in the horse's feet? A. As 
for the curative treatment of corns, there are four indications to be ful- 
filled: 1st, remove the cause; 2nd, treat the injury it has produced; 3rd, 
relieve the pressure upon the diseased region; 4th, prevent the return 
of the injury. Cold baths to the feet are very useful in all cases of corns 
and a bar shoe is a necessity. 

Question. What is hoof-bound feet and the cure? A. Sometimes 
"hoof-bound" is only a simple deformity without lameness and without 
serious results. But in most cases it constitutes a very serious affection 
which renders many horses useless and practically without value. Hoof- 
bound is commonly associated with corns, navicular disease, punctured 
wounds, thrush, side bones, any and all articular diseases and heredity. 

Question. What is to be done with hard, dry hoofs? A. Avoid all 
known causes likely to give rise to this morbid condition of the frog: 
pare the foot, cutting away all the ragged parts that would cover secre- 
tions that collect; exposing and thoroughly cleansing first the diseased 
parts; then poultice a few times with flaxseed meal; then dress with dry- 
ing powders, such as sub-acetate of lead; powdered alum and tannin. 



226 HORSE SENSE. 

equal parts. It is certain that in many cases, that proper shoeing is ot 
great advantage. 

Question. What is good to remove stomach w^orms from the horse? 
A. Give the following on an empty stomach; raw linseed oil, eight 
ounces; oil of turpentine, two tablespoonfuls; keep well mixed and ad- 
minister as a drench. It may be well to repeat it in a week or two. Give 
as a tonic; the following mixture: sulphate of iron, ten drachms; gentian, 
two ounces; willow charcoal, one ounce; Jamaica ginger, one ounce. 
Mix into fifteen powders and give one powder on the tongue before 
meals. 



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